If you clean the threads on black pipe with some lacquer thinner and a small wire
brush, you can use tape or putty, either one will work okay, I found that out
after fighting some leaks, clean the fittings good.
I have roughly 170' of 3/4'' black pipe running all over, zero leaks.
I was wondering about this, if you take 3/4'' black pipe, and 3/4'' copper pipe,
and lets say its hanging on the wall next to each other, like a foot in between
them.
Your garage is at 70 degrees temperature and both pipes have a 125 lbs of air
in them.
You walk up to them and touch them would one be cooler then the other.
Now you run hot air from the compressor through them, I would assume the
copper would get hotter quicker, so its dissapating heat faster, or would the
black pipe hold the heat in and cool it some by pipe absorbtion.
I sure would like to see a test of this and how much water you would get at the end
of each one.
Now if you run 75' to 100' of each, which one would have the dryer air at the end.
Now lets say your garage temperature is around 76 degrees, your painting and drawing
in fresh air from outside the garage, what effect would that have on the copper pipe,
if the outside temperature is 30 degrees or 100 degrees, would the thicker black pipe
maintain a more constant temperature, versus the thinner walled copper. Or would it
be so minimal that it wouldn't matter. This is assuming you are drawing garage
temperature air into the compressor, but a vent to the outside drawing the air in from
outside.
Would more condensation form in the thinner wallled copper with the outside air coming
in. Because an exhaust fan running fumes out of the booth, will be taking in quite a bit
of air, and unless you had a pretty good furnace or air conditioner to compensate I
would think you would have a garage temperature change. Or would it matter.
One more question, and yeah I know, I have way to much time on my hands to
set here and come up with these ridiculous questions. But we have some pretty
big brains on these forums, so we might as well put them to work, besides its
a hindrance to alzheimers, the more you use it the less chance of getting it.
My garage ceiling in one part is 8' 4'' tall, I was blowing out ballasts every
three or four months, and it doesn't get that hot up here near Green Bay WI.
The last one I changed out when I got on the step ladder, I thought, wow its
pretty hot up here, some of the higher effecient lights I have put out more
heat then the old type flourescent bulb.
So I put in an air conditioner, and if I'm working out there and I get a couple
sweat beads on the forehead, and I'm not talking real warm, I turn it on, I
haven't replaced a ballast in three years.
Now to the point, finally, if you have a 10' or 14' ceiling and your pipes are
run near the ceiling, then you have the down slopes, and the filters and take
offs at chest level, with the temperature change, check it out in your garage,
you might be surprised, what effect would the air running through it have
with the thinner wall versus the thicker walled pipe, any, probably doesn't
matter, but.
I'm pushing the black pipe because thats whay I have, and I would never
admit I should have put copper in.
So you spray your base coat, you have 75' of pipe, wait a half hour or whatever,
you go in and spray the clear, with the copper pipe you will have room temperature
of the air lay laying in the pipes, moreso then the black pipe, it takes longer to
change the temperature of the thicker walled pipe.
So the black pipe would tend to give you an average temperature of the air
coming out at the other end.
When a 125 lbs of air is running through a pipe, after a few minutes the black
pipe will hold a more steady temperature by being less resistant to the outside air.
When I bead blast, I do it in another garage, about 40' from the heated one.
I probably have 150' of black pipe then it goes into a 50' rubber hose reel.
So when its below freezing and I'm bead blasting in the unheated garage, I will
get some moisture in the bead blaster, just a little, and I will have to back flush
it to clear it out.
If I move the bead blaster into the heated garage the problem goes away, so the
air temperature on that rubber hose is generating the moisture.
Theres about 40' of rubber hose laying out in the cold.
So 40' can make a big difference in this situation, which is an extreme
temperature change, unlike our garages, but am I onto something here, or
not. Again maybe not.
When I sandblast in my paint room, I use a 100 lb eastwood type pressureized
sandblaster pot. I hold a 500 watt contractor light in one hand so I can see
really good, so I am blasting and looking it over and shutting down every 20
or 25 minutes to reload, so the compressor is staring and stopping quite a bit.
I'm old and slow, so if I had copper pipes, would I have a water problem, I
probably am repeating here, but I went through 1100 lbs of silica cand, and
I never had to back flush the sandblaster one time, and I have been down
the road on that, until I changed and added more air lines.
Would the faster temperature change of the copper make it better or worse,
well it can't get any better for sure, because I don't have moisture in the pot.
I'm thinking that when it comes to painting, it might make a difference.
I know its been I this, and me, and I, but I'm just telling you what is going on
here.
When I paint I have very little or I guess I could say non existent dirt in my
paint, and never any water problems, or air tools with moisture coming out of
the exhaust.
My last filter in the paint room, the little stone inside of it, is always snow
white, but mind you I'm a hobbist, and not running all the time, but I do use it.
These questions are borderline on ridiculous, but I have wondered about it.
Rob
http://www.1969supersport.com
