Copper shop air lines. Type L or M

[90zcar]

My wife and I just bought a house and I want to plumb my air lines here soon.
My last garage I did black iron pipe and while it was alright i got little pieces of rust in my filters and it was a pain in the *** threading everything.
I am going to do 3/4" copper pipe for the new setup and I want to know if type m would be ok or should I be using the thicker type L instead.


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[gerryw]

I have type M in my shop for 19 years, no issues at all

Gerry

 

[Ironhorse74]

I used L only because I this is my last shop. I am sure M would be fine. Copper airlines are ****. Make sure you use good solder. I used Sta-brite #8

 

[90zcar]

Actually after some researching I have found a majority of people to have used type m with no issues.
Looks like I'll be going to Home Depot pretty soon



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[tcianci]

MMMM...I wonder what the right stuff is?

 

[red61cj5]

pvc pipe is the way to go. no doubt about it. lol

 

[GYPSY400]

I have type M in my shop.. no issues.. but I think you need to use different solder 90/10 instead of 50/50

And shop around for the piping.. the big box store is not always the cheapest.

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[Ironhorse74]

Type L annealed is good for 650 psi Type M annealed is good for 430 psi. All can be found in the copper tube handbook. Now you no longer have to wonder.


http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...ok.pdf&usg=AFQjCNGqo8QS9upzoFLlK2C_SeZwvUwZ-g

 

[gerryw]

I don't know what solder I used, but it was just "plumbing solder" at the HD.

Gerry

 

[Jake40]

pvc pipe is the way to go. no doubt about it. lol

PVC over time becomes brittle so it's easily broken it hit with anything. Once brittle it turns to shrapnel when it breaks. PVC shrapnel does not feel pleasant on its own so I can just imagine how horrible it is backed with 100psi line pressure.

 

[90zcar]

I don't know what solder I used, but it was just "plumbing solder" at the HD.

Gerry

That was my next concern. Solder type


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[Jamie V]

I brazed type L in my garage, that way no concerns either way.

 

[DC73]

That was my next concern. Solder type

The copper handbook referenced above gives you this answer as well. You'll want to use something like a 95/5 Tin/Antimony solder or the Stay-Brite mentioned by Ironhorse. I would not use standard 50/50 plumbing solder. It's really only good for up to about 150 psi. The Stay-Brite or 95/5 is good for many times that.

DC

 

[matt_i]

I really like the Sta-Brite, it doesn't require excessive heat and flows really well. Also safe for potable water systems. It is more expensive than the "big box lead free" but much nicer to use, also won't creep under extended loading. 1 roll will last a very long time in normal plumbing useage.

 

[PWC Repair]

A product called Bridgit is very strong and also flows out well with lower heat.

 

[Firebrick43]

If you use L copper you can get a ridgid ratchet bender and an expander. This will greatly reduce fitting count and give you justification to buy tools. I picked mine up reasonably on flea bay. You can bend M

 

[gungatim]

I used the thicker type L when I did my shop because it was only pennies more than the M at the time. years later when I added on and copper prices skyrocketed, I used a couple pieces of the M. I can't tell any difference other than the L takes a little longer to cut with a tubing cutter...

 

[90zcar]

Thanks guys. Seems I got all the info I need to get started


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[The FIB]

PVC over time becomes brittle so it's easily broken it hit with anything. Once brittle it turns to shrapnel when it breaks. PVC shrapnel does not feel pleasant on its own so I can just imagine how horrible it is backed with 100psi line pressure.

Hook, line, and sinker.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

Charge your phone before you go to Home Depot...

Tommy

 

[nehog]

I have type M in my shop.. no issues.. but I think you need to use different solder 90/10 instead of 50/50
...

Properly done, the type of solder is not significant. A sweated joint would have copper fail before the solder joint would.

 

[Rob7181]

Glad to know there is another Marylander in the house. I grew up in Oxon Hill and went to Friendly. I now live in La Plata.

 

[Farrier]

You might check into aluminum pipe specifically for air systems. It's what I ended up buying 5 years ago when I bought my 2 stage compressor. All push fittings similar to PEX tubing and zero leaks since install. Very little moister build up either.

I was literally at the checkout at HD with a cart full of copper pipe/fittings when the bill rang up higher than the aluminum system was.

Edit: This is the MFG I used. Also bought their water trap tee's
http://www.synergair.net/pipe-and-fittings/tubing/

 

[Joe0121]

Copper Pipe for Air is pricey This is what you want:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005FKYRTU/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[csp]

It's what I ended up buying 5 years ago when I bought my 2 stage compressor.

I was literally at the checkout at HD with a cart full of copper pipe/fittings when the bill rang up higher than the aluminum system was.

The price of copper pipe has come down a LOT compared to what it was five years ago.

 

[Kevin54]

pvc pipe is the way to go. no doubt about it. lol

OH NO!!!!!! He said PVC airlines. Ban him....BAN HIM!!!! LOL!!!

 

[LS6 Tommy]

If you want to make copper air lines truly pricey, don't swet or braze them. Pro Press! ��

 

[GYPSY400]

Properly done, the type of solder is not significant. A sweated joint would have copper fail before the solder joint would.

I won't dispute that, but when I was doing my research a few years back, I read that air pressure needs to be treated different than water pressure.. being that one is fairly constant and the other has percussion. The information I gathered at that time was that solder type mattered for the application... and one could argue that if it didn't- there would only be one type of solder.

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[oilslick]

Black pipe has climbed to levels that make copper look like a better option to me,I like sweating joints.

 

[The Cobbler]

I'm using L with silver solder for my air lines .

 

[90zcar]

Copper Pipe for Air is pricey This is what you want:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005FKYRTU/?tag=atomicindus08-20

That's actually more money than what it's going to cost me to use copper. I like the aesthetics of copper and the metal helps bring out your moisture in air where plastic doesn't as well and ends up in your tools


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[Know Wosad]

pvc pipe is the way to go. no doubt about it. lol

It is if you own a sheet metal operation and can hide it within a nice 24 ga condom.I can plumb out 10,000 SF shop in a couple hours then my avatars can brake up some (inexpensive) sheet and pin it over it 12 feet at a time. No worries.
I like black pipe. Its a pain in the *** initially but I like to work so not reeeeealy.
Put plenty of drops in it.They'll take in the rust.
Matter of fact I'm adding about 80 feet tomorrow out to my plasma table.Lotsa threading to do. Good as *** !
Hey. At our age both events require plenty of lube

 

[Ggg]

Like The Cobbler I used type L and used silver solder. Silver solder has a broader operating temperature range (cold in particular), as well as higher psi rating. Much of my copper pipe is in non heated areas of my shop such as the attic, or even exposed outside. I have a high pressure compressor 170/190. Tonight's temps are zero with wind chill is -30F. Sunday's high is -6F. Idk where the OP lives but here it can get pretty cold sometimes so that was a factor. The copper has been in service foe 10 years, never a single issue.

 

[gungatim]

LGR!

 

[90zcar]

I live in brutal Pennsylvania....so it gets pretty nasty cold up here


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[doctordirt]

Don't forget to install dirt or moisture drops, so dirt or moisture can be removed.

 

[nehog]

... and one could argue that if it didn't- there would only be one type of solder.

Reasons for different solder types include melting point, strength, and health hazards (lead in plumbing). 50/50 or 60/40 (or 63/37) are all rather flexible due to lead content. Non-lead bearing solders are much less forgiving--but mandated for plumbing.

 

[90zcar]

Where's a better place for solder? Lowes had maybe 2 different kinds and I didn't see either of the two mentioned.


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[chrispitude]

A product called Bridgit is very strong and also flows out well with lower heat.

I called Harris Products Group (manufacturer of Stay Brite 8) and asked for a recommendation. He said Stay Brite 8 is certainly the Cadillac of solders, but for the purposes of compressed air distribution, I would get effectively just as premium an outcome with Bridgit (which they also make). So I went with Bridgit solder and flux.

Very knowledgeable tech.

 

[4cyclic]

I used Bridgit on copper fittings for my radiant setup and it's easy to work with. Will use it for sure on extending my air system with 3/4 L copper.