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Coppper Wire - Solid or Stranded?

walrus

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Here are the instructions off a jar of Ideal Twister Pro wirenuts
To be sold only with installation instructions, Do not sell without these instructions.
1. Turn off power before removing or installing connectors
2. strip wires 1/2 inch
3. Pretwisting acceptable, but not required, For pretwisting see step 6
4. Align frayed strands and conductors
5.Hold stripped wire together with ends even, lead straned wire approx.1/16.
6.for pretwisting strip wires long, align insulated ends twist conductors, trim to 1/2 inch.
7.Insert wires wires into connector and screw on until approx. 2 twists are visible in wire outside the connector
Its interesting that the manufacturer states the product shouldn't be sold without instructions. It seems to me that
Pretwisting has nothing to do with the safe use of this product, the instructions clearly state that. Having 2 twists outside the nut clearly does. People pretwist because thats the way they were taught, it has nothing to do with the listed way an Ideal wire nut should be used.
 
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Torque1st

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Try it sometime before you judge how well it works.

In a perfect world wire nut joints all go together perfectly just twisting the nuts. Unfortunately the world is not perfect and those of us that have seen those "brown" wire nuts have seen why it is not perfect in that respect. Twist, trim, and then wire nut is the best way for anyone who wants to do the job right and not just get by with minimum effort. Keep to the minimum Walrus and watch things burn...
 
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rinny_tin_tin

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Here are the instructions off a jar of Ideal Twister Pro wirenuts

Its interesting that the manufacturer states the product shouldn't be sold without instructions. It seems to me that
Pretwisting has nothing to do with the safe use of this product, the instructions clearly state that. Having 2 twists outside the nut clearly does. People pretwist because thats the way they were taught, it has nothing to do with the listed way an Ideal wire nut should be used.

The warning is there to accommodate adequate product marking and warning requirements - in the event of a casualty, the warning would have covered that prong. Ideal has faced several product liability suits.
 

walrus

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The warning is there to accommodate adequate product marking and warning requirements - in the event of a casualty, the warning would have covered that prong. Ideal has faced several product liability suits.

Of course they have, most companies have. My point is the instructions clearly point out the proper use of their product. Twist, Pretwist, take your choice, I see neither as superior as both are acceptable.
 

sberry

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I dont pretwist but my hands are strong and I can get them really tight. Ideal and Wingnut are a good product, those Scotch with the vinyl coating are terrible.
 

Torque1st

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Take some of those joints apart that have just been twisted with the nuts and you will find some significant variation in twist patterns and wire retention. I can also twist very tight but I still pre-twist for a solid, uniform, and reliable connection I can inspect visually before I cover it up.
 

Crzydmnd72

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If you must terminate stranded on a device, here is a trick I've watch my father do...

Strip the wire a little further back than you usually do and slide the insulation back but not all the way off. This keep the stranded end neat.

Wrap your bare wire around the screw and torque normally.

Either leave the spaghetti on or go ahead and pull it off, seen him do it both ways.

It does keep the "wickers" to a minimum.

FYI, he doesnt like landing a stranded to a screw any more than anyone else LOL.

And he caught me once installing a yellow without pretwisting. He showed the the twist with linesmans, then trim, then cap. Explained that the nut does a good job at insulating the connection, but he never trusted them to HOLD the connection together physically
 
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LoneGunman

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I've seen worse connection when twisting 5 or 6 STRANDED than if just the nut was applied. I always twist solids. I prefer twisting strandeds not for the connection integrity, in my opinion the nuts hold just as well untwisted. If you ever undid a hot joint with 5 or 6 stranded under a nut that were not twisted you'd see why, undo the nut and you have 5 wires going in all directions.
 

hidollartoys

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Stranded and per-twist. Just my .02.

For landing under recept and switch screws, strip back the end but do not remove the insulation from the end, now rap the exposed section of wire around the screw and tighten. The short piece of insulation that is left will keep the strands from fraying. Standare practice for EMT installations that I have been exposed to.

I hope I have described this adequately.
 

Blue Seducer

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I am in the process of wiring my garage addition. I was told that I should use 12g solid, which I have used to wire 15 can lights. 10 on one cuircut, and 5 on another with each using a 20 amp breaker. In reading this thread, I discovered that the switches I have are rated 15 amps. Am I ok with these, or should I change them out? Also, what about my outlets? I have not run any of them yet. Keep in mind that this is not a working area, more of a show room. Can I use 14g wire for these with 15 amp breakers? :shocking:
 

walrus

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I am in the process of wiring my garage addition. I was told that I should use 12g solid, which I have used to wire 15 can lights. 10 on one cuircut, and 5 on another with each using a 20 amp breaker. In reading this thread, I discovered that the switches I have are rated 15 amps. Am I ok with these, or should I change them out? Also, what about my outlets? I have not run any of them yet. Keep in mind that this is not a working area, more of a show room. Can I use 14g wire for these with 15 amp breakers? :shocking:

How much do the can lights draw in wattage or amperage. You can load a 20 amp circuit to 16 amps with a lighting load, 12 amps on a 15 amp circuit. If its 10- 60 watt bulbs I see no issues.
 

Torque1st

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I am in the process of wiring my garage addition. I was told that I should use 12g solid, which I have used to wire 15 can lights. 10 on one cuircut, and 5 on another with each using a 20 amp breaker. In reading this thread, I discovered that the switches I have are rated 15 amps. Am I ok with these, or should I change them out? Also, what about my outlets? I have not run any of them yet. Keep in mind that this is not a working area, more of a show room. Can I use 14g wire for these with 15 amp breakers? :shocking:
A post such as this should be removed and made into a thread of it's own. Please ask a moderator to do that for you. Hijacking a thread is considered bad form.:thumbup:
 
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