Corbel block bolts, need a better drill bit....

[Gaius]

Built and raised the trusses yesterday on my pole building shop. Drilled a 3/4 hole in the blocks with a long spade bit. Brand new, still the hardest thing I did all day. still have 26 holes to drill .

Can you recommend a better style of bit that will work with greenish 6x6s? Auger bit? Boring bit? Or does the spade work as well as the others?

I should have drill on the ground, but didnt think that far ahead. Thanks!

 

[larry_g]

https://www.irwin.com/tools/drill-bits/impact-wrench-utility-pole-auger-bits

Made for the job.....

lg
no neat sig line

 

[Gaius]

https://www.irwin.com/tools/drill-bits/impact-wrench-utility-pole-auger-bits

Made for the job.....

lg
no neat sig line

Thanks, I was looking at those. Keep in mind I'll be up on a ladder doing them one-handed. They work well for that?

 

[Zewnten]

Yess

 

[manwithtools]

Thanks, I was looking at those. Keep in mind I'll be up on a ladder doing them one-handed. They work well for that?

These will work perfect for your application. You need a drill or impact with some "grunt". Milwaukee makes them as well:

https://smile.amazon.com/Milwaukee-48-13-5750-18-Inch-Ship-Auger/dp/B0000224AL/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=48-13-5750&qid=1563121528&s=hi&sr=1-1

 

[tarbellb]

Self feeding augers will make a huge difference. HF has a stubby set that is nice for tight spots, but the hex shank will break.

 

[The Cobbler]

just be careful, being on a ladder, you need to pay attention ,and be careflu of binding when you hit a knot or whatever . if you can use an angle drill propped against a rest that would be the best option

 

[Downwindtracker 2]

Spade bits don't clear well and are designed to work at higher speeds, like around 2000 rpm.It's not just knots that will throw you off the ladder, the chips binding will have you turning instead of the drill bit. So do a lot of stop pushing, or pull back, and let the chips run out. In my younger days, I did some industrial timber framing.

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

I have some Irwin speed bore bits. They go through 1 1/2" framing quickly (faster than the auger bits). Sometimes they will plug up when going through 3" of material.

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

Thanks, I was looking at those. Keep in mind I'll be up on a ladder doing them one-handed. They work well for that?

Great bits for rough framing, but I wouldn't even think about trying it one handed...ESPECIALLY off a ladder They pull like a MF!

 

[rlitman]

Thanks, I was looking at those. Keep in mind I'll be up on a ladder doing them one-handed. They work well for that?

Nothing works well in that situation. But now that I own a right angle Hole Hawg, I wouldn't consider running a self feeding bit in anything else. And no, these are NOT meant to be run one-handed, however, in a regular drill, they'll sometimes want to rip your arm off or throw you from the ladder, when when you're using the side handle. You really need the extra length of an angle drill to protect yourself from the torque.

 

[Gaius]

Thanks all. I'm using my 1/2 inch chuck Skil brand drill, it's just powerful enough that it wont throw me. I can get it to almost stall with one arm up on the pole. It's no Milwaukee!

Just trying to track one down, going to have to drive in to the city to get one.


edit: I borrowed a short, rusty auger bit from a neighbor, it worked great. Just need a longer one so I dont have to finish with the spade.

 

[Downwindtracker 2]

Take your time, you life is worth more than a few minutes. Back off frequently, just nibble at it. That's a great place for a jiggle hoist.

 

[matt_i]

Thanks all. I'm using my 1/2 inch chuck Skil brand drill, it's just powerful enough that it wont throw me.

An impact driver with the spade bit chucked directly works soo much better than chucking it into a drill chuck. The impacts seem to work to chip out pieces of grain which would just bog down a traditional drill motor.

Good to keep a mill file around in case you dull the edge striking steel buried in the wood by accident.

 

[techieman33]

An impact driver with the spade bit chucked directly works soo much better than chucking it into a drill chuck. The impacts seem to work to chip out pieces of grain which would just bog down a traditional drill motor.

Good to keep a mill file around in case you dull the edge striking steel buried in the wood by accident.

THIS. It's not always as fast, and may be harder on the bits. But those are small trade offs for not having to worry about a drill trying to break my wrist or throw me off a ladder. Bits are infinitely cheaper than a trip to the hospital and taking time off of work.