Corded Drills - Does Torque Really Matter?

[BDFan1981]

While I know torque matters a lot for most of you owners of cordless drill/drivers, I want to ask: does torque really matter, too, for those of you using corded (plug-in) drills?

Once again, my scope is limited to the models of yesteryear (because I hate "Made in China"). This list also does not include the very large 1/2" drills because all my selections focus on models with variable speed control.

EXAMPLE: BLACK & DECKER / DeWALT CORDED DRILLS FROM 1994:

1042: 1/4" VSR High Speed (0-4000 RPM) Drill
Amps: 5.4
Maximum torque: 78 in.-lbs. (6.5 ft.-lbs.)

1046: 1/4" VSR (0-2500 RPM) Drill
Amps: 5.4
Maximum torque: 106 in.-lbs. (8.8 ft.-lbs.)

1166, 1167 / DeWalt DW100, DW106: 3/8" VSR High Speed (0-2500 RPM) Drill w/ ACCU-BORE (which helps you achieve a perfect 90-degree angle)
(1167 & DW106 have keyless chuck)
Amps: 4
Maximum torque: 90 in.-lbs. (7.5 ft.-lbs.)

2600 / DeWalt DW102: 3/8" VSR (0-1200 RPM) Drill
Amps: 4.5
Maximum torque: 200 in.-lbs. (16.7 ft.-lbs.)

1180 / DeWalt DW103: 3/8" VSR Heavy Duty (0-1200 RPM) Drill
Amps: 5.4
Maximum torque: 220 in.-lbs. (18.3 ft.-lbs.)

1170 3/8" VSR Dual-Range (0-1400 / 0-3000 RPM) Drill
Amps: 5.4
Maximum torque (low range): 190 in.-lbs. (15.8 ft.-lbs.)

1575 3/8" VSR (0-1200 RPM) "ScruDrill"
Amps: 5.4
Maximum torque: 220 in.-lbs. (18.3 ft.-lbs.)

1312 / DeWalt DW111 1/2" VSR High Speed (0-900 RPM) Drill
Amps: 5.4
Maximum torque: 300 in.-lbs. (25 ft.-lbs.)
1314 same as 1312, but with keyless chuck

1311 / DeWalt DW110 1/2" VSR (0-600 RPM) Drill
Amps: 5.4
Maximum torque: 440 in.-lbs. (36.7 ft.-lbs.)
1313 same as 1311, but with keyless chuck

~Ben

 

[Musicinabottle]

Well, I applaud you on not buying Chinese. Hand shake! First things first, with respect to the vintage corded variable speed drills..... you aren't going to get the gut wrenching torque you'd see with drills having a momentary switch, that's the drills with a switch that's either on or off. May I ask what you intend to use the drill for?

 

[Ole Slewfoot]

It matters. I had a dewalt VSR that stalled all the time in normal drilling. not even close to a good cordless. I don't miss it at all. Now I've got a Rigid that's proven quite adequate for most corded drilling needs.

But when it really matters, the 5.8 Stanley comes out. Mostly when I'm to lazy to mix an 80 lb bag of cement by hand. That gut wrenching torque Musicinabottle mentions will hurt you pretty bad if you lose your grip too.

 

[ovrrdrive]

I've got one of the HF high torque drills with variable speed and I honestly think I fractured my wrist with it last year... I don't know why someone would think variable speed means low torque. I wouldn't want to drill any heavy plate with a drill that was either on or off, especially a high torque drill. That's just asking for it.

 

[gungatim]

I think it depends on what you are doing with it. personally I only use corded drill motors for drilling something I can't fit on my drill press, every 3/8 drill I've used has had plenty of power for drilling at least to 1/2", beyond that I use a craftsman 1/2" drill or my larger 5/8 Milwaukee to drill up to 7/8" in steel with no problem.

I think torque is more important on cordless drills since most people use them with screwdriver bits. corded drills not so much...

 

[jgromada]

The whole trend toward dedicated impact drivers isn't something that was prevalent even 10 years ago.

If I have to drill a big hole with a hole saw through a floor joist the preference is my D-handle Milwaukee rather than my Dewalt cordless.

 

[6PTsocket]

The whole trend toward dedicated impact drivers isn't something that was prevalent even 10 years ago.

If I have to drill a big hole with a hole saw through a floor joist the preference is my D-handle Milwaukee rather than my Dewalt cordless.

As you correctly point out, Big D handle drills were/are made for hight torque applications. All corded drills cannot be thrown into the same bag any more than all cordless drills can. In the other hand I have an old, corded IR torque wrench that can barely remove a lug nut. I have no idea why I keep it. We had a corded DeWalt torque wrench at work that seemed pretty decent but it was never used for anything very big.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[derosa]

I'm not certain it matters quite as much as having sharp bits and the extra handle for the really big bits. I had to drill a half dozen 4.5" holes through some really tough old 2*10s that were in a place I couldn't get a corded drill. My cordless wasn't designed to have the extra handle and by the end I was really wishing it had. Even with lower torque it requited not pushing as hard to keep the bit from catching. Its a much lower torque then the dewalt corded I used elsewhere but did the job a touch faster as it did turn at a faster speed. Difference was I could lean on the dewalt with its higher torque and extra handle more to power the bit through rather then rely on speed and a lighter touch.

 

[MikeF2316]

It's important when you're drilling bigger holes. If you're going into thick steel with a large bit, you'll need to not go at full speed, or you'll just fry your bit.

I use my drill press for just about everything I can.

 

[jd_1138]

Torque is important when driving larger fasteners, and using Torx fasteners means there's less chance of camming out. Pre-drilling helps prevent the wood splitting.

 

[CJM8515]

Well, yea it does matter and it matters big. Friends dad was drilling holes in concrete block to mount some shelves in the garage. Nothing major just looking to put some mollys in. He had soem sorta older black and decker 3amp drill. Friend came home to find dad trying to do this and utterly failing with drill (dads not handy btw). Friend is a contractor and his makita cordless did it in seconds..

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

Well, yea it does matter and it matters big. Friends dad was drilling holes in concrete block to mount some shelves in the garage. Nothing major just looking to put some mollys in. He had soem sorta older black and decker 3amp drill. Friend came home to find dad trying to do this and utterly failing with drill (dads not handy btw). Friend is a contractor and his makita cordless did it in seconds..

Concrete would call for a hammer drill. It shouldn't require a lot of torque.
Proper tool for the job.

When it comes to drilling large holes torque is needed.
Drill speed is also important, especially when drilling metal. Many people try drilling at too high of speed and end up with dull bits.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Torque matter BIG TIME when you are drill holes 3/8" and up !

This is why I have always said you need 2 drills. A 3/8" battery (preferable with 2 speeds) and 1/2" TRIPLE GEAR REDUCTION corded drill. I have a Craftsman Profession triple gear reduction 1/2" probably from the 1980s. It is a beast for coming in an average sized "pistol grip" housing ! On bits over 3/8" you had better be using the assist handle.

Corded triple gear reduction drills are hard to find these days

Many people try drilling at too high of speed and end up with dull bits.

Very true !

 

[jeejay]

Not only the input power could be measured in watts. The maximum power tool output in watts is said to be what to look for (or estimate) in the specs, instead of torque or anything else by itself. There's an article here: The Definitive Guide To Max Watts Out (MWO) "The issue is that the maximum amount of power doesn’t occur at peak torque or peak no load speed." Another article calls this Units Watts Out (UWO): What Torque Really Means... "to measure the performance of a drill is to combine speed and torque, a measurement called Power... A drill’s Power Rating... the point where the drill’s speed and torque output are the highest".

It also says "torque ratings have been steadily increasing to levels beyond what is actually needed to complete applications", so in that case torque wouldn't really matter as much as how good the bit was to begin with, etc. I use corded drills, so at least there's maximum input power for starters (and I'm sure cordless or pneumatic ones are considered powerful somehow too, I just don't need that many drills).

 

[CoogarXR]

I have an old Black and Decker 1/2" that I use for hole saws and augers. That sucker will break your wrist if you're not careful, lol.

 

[ez-duzit]

Best 1/2" drill is a Milwaukee Hole Shooter. High torque.

 

[bcradio]

Concrete would call for a hammer drill. It shouldn't require a lot of torque.
Proper tool for the job.

Couldn't have said it better myself. It's amazing how many people do not know this. Drilling concrete and block is basically just controlled chipping.

As for torque, it definitely matters and much more so in a corded drill vs. a cordless. Cordless drills are more for convenience and the corded comes out when you need some power.