Corded vs cordless drills - frustrated yet?!

[e-tek]

Not sure if this was already discussed ad neaseum, but as usual, a search yields noting. I have a couple good cordless drills but find myself going back to my corded ones due to the inconvenience, lost power and size of the cordless ones. Any one else find themselves in this same predicament?

 

[volvo92906]

No. I have one corded and 3 cordless. Well... 2 cordless since I literally just got the 3rd.. I ALWAYS use the cordless ones. More convenient to use.. They work for everything I do.

 

[skew12]

I went through that when I built the privacy fence at my last house. I got sick of 3/4 charged batteries. They cheap corded drill I have rolled right on through it.

 

[Jack Olsen]

I prefer the corded drills for most jobs -- much stronger. But the cordless ones are handy for driving screws and quick holes in wood.

 

[Davefr]

If an outlet is handy and the job is more then one or two holes, then corded is the way to go IMHO.

- Don't have to worry about weak batteries
- Don't have to wait for batteries to charge
- Don't have to worry about batteries running out of charge in the middle of the hole
- Don't have to change batteries
- Generally don't have to worry about weak torque

Even if I need an extension cord it's still less overhead then fussing with batteries.

 

[crewchief888]

both have their use..

if i'm gonna drive a few screws or drill a few holes, i'll grab a cordless.

otherwise i'll drag out a corded drill, and extension cord if needed.

at work i very seldom use a cordless drill, air power all the way.

 

[OccupantRJ]

I will use a corded drill for most metal fabrication in the shop, but the battery drills are all over the shop for quick grab and use for most work. I have four, plus the impact drivers, so I can skip bit or driver changes during projects. I had a total of 8 DeWalt battery tools out using them today, on one project.

 

[lmwilco1]

I use the cordless for everything except for large holes in steel or tube notching where I use a corded 1/2 drill. I bought 18v lithium batteries for the dewalt drill and they made a big difference.

Louis

 

[03protege]

I just drilled 7 1/4" holes and 1 hole slightly over 1/2" in 1/4" mild steel all done with my Milwaukee m12. I always grab it first and if it can't handle it or the batteries die (typically not an issue unless I haven't charged in awhile) I will then grab a corded.

 

[bczygan]

We use 2 old corded 3/8" variable speed B&D drills at wok to drill out rivets and to drill holes for rivets. Just work better. You can pick them up at garage sales for $2-$4.

 

[brokeguy]

i hate battery tools. especially when the batteries go bad ugh!

 

[Tavy]

One good cordless and a slew of air drills. The cordless is just handy when you need get in a **** spot and or for a quick job when a cord is more of a hassle then it's worth..or air line in my case.

 

[liliysdad]

I havent owned a corded drill in nearly ten years...and dont intend to start.

 

[KinzeMech]

I would use a corded drill more often if someone made one that is just like a cordless (except for the cord).

Corded drills have motors with so much inertia. My corded drill will freewheel on for 10 to 15 seconds spinning down to a stop, just coasting on the momentum of the motor. It makes them useless for driving screws, the momentum overdrives them and strips out the head.

It's not the cord-free-ness of a cordless I care about, it's the lightweight motor that instantly spins to full speed, and the electric brake that instantly stops when the trigger is release.

If someone makes a cord drill that runs like a cordless (including a screw-driving torque clutch) except is has a cord instead, please, let me know. I want to buy one.

 

[absolutelybillsmood]

I have an old Craftsman corded drill I've always been happy with. My dad has a green Black and Decker older than I am...it works fine. Nothing cordless is going to run trouble free for 30-40 years like a regular drill.

 

[CTyankee]

I havent owned a corded drill in nearly ten years...and dont intend to start.

Pretty much the same here.

It's not unusual for me to drive hundreds of screws a day, with some pre-drilling..some not. And I don't think think anything of drilling holes in steel beams to accept 2x material(graduating up in bit size). My drill and/or driver pretty much hangs off my tool belt all day, 5 days a week. Heck I'll even chuck up a 3 or 4 inch hole saw bit in my drill without a second thought. All with a 3 year old Panasonic drill/driver set with 4 batteries. Except for deep drilling with a hole-hog, I can't remember the last time I needed a corded drill.

 

[Davefr]

If someone makes a cord drill that runs like a cordless (including a screw-driving torque clutch) except is has a cord instead, please, let me know. I want to buy one.

A torque clutch isn't near as precise as a depth clutch.

When you're driving decking (or drywall) screws you want the release to occur at a depth just slightly below the surface. A torque release clutch will cause unacceptable variance.

 

[86k10]

I haven't used a corded drill in years. But I do like a pneumatic drill for long/extensive drilling but if you don't have the compressor running all day I can see grabbing a corded one.

 

[GSteg]

Even if I have 1000+ screws to work with, cordless all the way. Why? Because I have more than 1 battery and they're easy to swap. A decent drill with a decent lithium battery should last some time before needing to recharge. Those who are having problems with dead batteries, upgrade to a nicer drill with a good quality lithium battery. You have options other than Nicads.

 

[redwrench60]

Thanks to OSHA/KPA we no longer have drop lights with 120V outlets that we can string out to the job. Now the drops are always at least 15 feet away from where you're working so cordless all the way. I have a corded hammerdrill at home for real violence.

 

[djjsr]

The only time I use a corded drill is for holes 1/2" or larger and anything masonry.

 

[KinzeMech]

A torque clutch isn't near as precise as a depth clutch.

When you're driving decking (or drywall) screws you want the release to occur at a depth just slightly below the surface. A torque release clutch will cause unacceptable variance.

This is true, depth control is not an ideal application of a torque clutch. However, if your objective is to limit the torque of the tool, it's ideal for it.
One of the common uses I often use one for is running self drilling screws in steel. A few clicks off maximum will allow the clutch to slip when the screw bottoms, instead of twisting off the head.

 

[KinzeMech]

Thanks to OSHA/KPA we no longer have drop lights with 120V outlets that we can string out to the job. /QUOTE]

Seriously? What possible benefit could they imagine to find in that?

 

[braol]

I dont own a corded drill and I rarely use my air tools at work any more.

 

[Fizbin]

- Don't have to worry about weak batteries
- Don't have to wait for batteries to charge
- Don't have to worry about batteries running out of charge in the middle of the hole
- Don't have to change batteries
- Generally don't have to worry about weak torque

+1

Call me old fashioned, but all of my power tools have cords. Granted that I'm just a hobbiest now and have an ample supply of extension cords and outlets around the shop, but projects can sometimes get a little frustrating and I don't need a battery to make that experience worse.

Of course, these days it's getting harder to find certain tools that AREN'T cordless, so perhaps one day I'll be forced to be cord free. But until that day comes, I'm more than happy knowing that I can plug & play anytime I want.

 

[redwrench60]

Thanks to OSHA/KPA we no longer have drop lights with 120V outlets that we can string out to the job. /QUOTE]

Seriously? What possible benefit could they imagine to find in that?

Yeah it ***** bad. The drop lights with outlets were handy as hell but were deemed a potential shock/fire hazzard so they took them all down. Now you have to string a tripping hazzard across the floor to a wall outlet. Go figure.

 

[Super Sport]

With a couple of lithium batteries, my Cman Pro 20V doesn't give me any problems. It's rare to have a battery die out on me while working on a project, and if it does it's usually because it wasn't fully charged to begin with. The drill has enough power to do everything I've needed, minus using a 4" hole saw between joists to run through three 2" boards.

For that, I used a corded hammer drill...which very rarely comes out of the drawer.

 

[#1SomeGuy]

I'm shocked at the number of people who have issues with cordless. My cordless drills (Dewalt 18v) last plenty long and the batteries charge super fast and so much more convenient then lugging around cords everywhere. I do own one corded 3/8" drill and one sds corded drill...but those are for specific uses (such as prolonged drilling or well uh concrete obviously). Frankly starting fully charged with one drill and one impact driver, I can go all day long on projects without stopping.

 

[GSteg]

I'm shocked at the number of people who have issues with cordless.

Some people are still hanging onto their old tools that's been sitting on the shelf for a while. Batteries do not go bad unless you rarely use it, or if the battery you bought is not good to begin with. I always hear the same argument.. batteries gone dead.. takes a long time to recharge.... dying in the middle of the project, etc. They're not much off an issue anymore with current drills, unless you go with the lowest priced item.

 

[Robbie UK]

I have a small Makita 10.8v cordless drill for minor jobs or where access is poor (I have no air). For everything else I have gone back to a big corded drill with a real metal gearbox. I have no idea why it took me over 10 years to go back to the delights of a 240v drill.

 

[Haukur]

I always have a Makita 3/8" cordless drill and a 1/2" drive impact in the work truck. They both use the same 18V Lithiums. The drill goes for ever on one battery, I mostly use it with wire or plastic bristle wheels to clean bolts.

The impact runs out of juice pretty fast when used to break loose big bolt, the kind that require 3/4 drive sockets. But if the bolts are loosened by a breaker bar then it will zip them out and in quite a few times

The batteries load in 20 minutes. I have two chargers and five batteries, I newer run out of power.

This way I don't have to run the generator unless I need to grind and/or weld.

I also don't have to put away muddy cords or airlines after working on equipment on site.

 

[cburnscrx]

I'd be interested to know what kind of cordless tools people are using that they prefer corded?

I have almost everything in both corded and cordless, and I am always reaching for the cordless first. Then again I have plenty of batteries and 4 chargers, so I don't ever worry about running out of juice. I am running the DeWalt 18v system. About the only thing I reach for the corded version first is my Milwaukee recip saw.

It's good to have both, and they absolutely have their place in the world.

I really think I want to add the Bosch 12v screwdriver to my list of tools.

 

[Davefr]

I'd be interested to know what kind of cordless tools people are using that they prefer corded?

Let's see. I have Panasonic 12v Ni Cad, Panasonic 15.6v Ni MH, Bosch 12V Li Ion and Bosch 18V Li Ion.

With corded I don't have to charge or swap batteries or worry about torque. (less time spent assuming an outlet is near by)

I only use cordless for small jobs or when a cord in inconveniant (like laddder work).

I'm really surprised corded hasn't made a comeback. When "Joe homeowner" has to shell out >$100 for a couple battery packs every few years it get's expensive and a PIA.

 

[Haukur]

For me its mostly 3/8" drill and a 1/2" impact, both 18V Makita. I want to get a Makita 18V anglegrinder, but most of my grinding needs now involve prepping excavator buckets for new teeth or making a bevel to weld broken teeth back on. That means that a 220V is much better suited to my needs at this time.

 

[Stevie-Ray]

My 18V cordless went **** up last year after about 15 years of loyal service, and I missed it so much that my wife bought me a DeWalt DC970K-2 for Christmas. It's so good that I haven't needed to rely on my corded Craftsman 3/8" or my Milwaukee 1/2" Hole Shooter, though they remain in service for emergencies, such as drilling through 3 studs at once. I really need a cordless for so many things, and the DeWalt fills in nicely.

 

[wjamyers]

My 18V cordless went **** up last year after about 15 years of loyal service, and I missed it so much that my wife bought me a DeWalt DC970K-2 for Christmas. It's so good that I haven't needed to rely on my corded Craftsman 3/8" or my Milwaukee 1/2" Hole Shooter, though they remain in service for emergencies, such as drilling through 3 studs at once. I really need a cordless for so many things, and the DeWalt fills in nicely.

On sale at Amazon for 79.00 today. so tempted after this kind of info.

 

[dnschmidt]

I haven't used any of my 10 or so corded drills (Metabo and Milwaukee) in years. I have a ton of Milwaukee M18 Fuel cordless and about 15 batteries (5.0 and 4.0 Ah which are always charged) for all of my Milwaukee M18 stuff so why would I want to trip over a cord if I don't have to.

 

[Socket Pounder]

On sale at Amazon for 79.00 today. so tempted after this kind of info.

Why are you bumping old threads to post this information. Next time just make a new thread.

 

[joe_pinehill1]

For years my go to drill was 3/8 Makita, since I switched to the Milwaukee M12 and M18 I can remember the last time I pulled out the Makita.

Only time I used corded is the drill press and an Old Old Thor 1/2 drill I use to mix tile thinset and grout.

I'm a homeowner and serious DIYer, not a pro

 

[IndyGarage]

I still have a couple corded drills, but they keep going further and further back on the shelf. If I'm drilling deep holes in metal, I might need one. For everything else I use cordless. I've also mostly gone cordless on circular saws and sawsalls - it's more and more rare to pull the corded ones out.

I've mostly stopped using air tools and gone with battery power. I do occasionally need and air impact for some large or stubborn bolts.

I don't think the cordless angle grinders are good enough to replace corded yet - but sooner or later they will be.