Cordless impact drivers - any good?

[PepperCrab]

I'm thinking of buying a battery operated impact driver for removing the really tight nuts and bolts on my bike, because I don't own a compressor. Things like the huge sprocket nuts (about 150 ft/lbs) brake rotor nuts and other stuff that are tightened with red locktite. The last time i took out the sprocket, I had to use a 5 foot cheater bar.

So I'm wondering if something like the Bosch 21618 (18V) impact driver will work for my needs? It says it can deliver 350 ft/lbs. I've never owned an impact before so I need some advice. Thanks.

 

[mossyboy6]

The Bosch 21618 is a 1/2 impact not an "impact driver".

With that said, yes it will probably do what you want to do with it, but I would recommended a used snap on impact over the bosch.

 

[diesel research]

but I would recommended a used snap on impact over the bosch.

^^


Furthermore, you should know red locktite has some special requirements.

aka heat to remove.

Sure you can eventually get it with other methods (long cheaters and super impacts) but it is so much easier when you use the right procedures for the locktite, or the right locktite for the job, depending on situation.

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/10/15/t_lkr_red/overview/Loctite-Threadlocker-Red-271.htm

Loctite® Threadlocker Red 271™ is designed for the permanent locking and sealing of threaded fasteners. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It protects threads from rust and corrosion and prevents loosening from shock and vibration. It is only removable once cured by heating up parts to 500°F (260°C).

ecommended For

* Use on metal fasteners up to 1" (25 mm) in diameter such as bolts on decks, ready-to-assemble furniture, mounts, rings, gear bolts and frame bolts

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/10/15/t_lkr_blue/overview/Loctite-Threadlocker-Blue-242.htm

Loctite® Threadlocker Blue 242® is designed for the locking and sealing of threaded fasteners which require normal disassembly with standard hand tools. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It protects threads from rust and corrosion and prevents loosening from shock and vibration. Loctite® Threadlocker Blue 242® is particularly suited for applications on less active substrates such as stainless steel and plated surfaces, where disassembly is required for servicing.

Recommended For

* Use on metal fasteners 1/4' (6 mm) to 3/4' (19 mm) in diameter such as bolts on small engines, swing sets and furniture

So, if it has previously been locktited, heat is your friend. If heat is not easily applied or the part needs to be removed in the future, consider blue.

 

[Original Man]

While we're talking about loctite, is it a good idea to use blue locktite on an impact gun's air line ******?

 

[diesel research]

Does yours come loose? Never really had one back out, especially since I use a quick connect which acts as a sort of swivel.

 

[PepperCrab]

Thanks for the very useful info guys. So the difference between an impact driver is impact driver = constant torque, while impact wrench = hammer and anvil action?

I can't justify spending so much for the SO because I will only be using this very very infrequently. Maybe not even once a year (unless I can start using it regularly to undo stuff, which isn't really necessary for me). Also if it needs replacement parts, I can't afford the battery packs and stuff, SO stuff is too expensive for me because I'm only doing this as a hobby. I might spend for stuff I use very often like wrenches and ratchets, but not on an impact wrench.

The products I can get support for here are Borsh, Makita, Hitachi, DeWalt, and Ingersoll Rand. Out of these what are the good brands and which are the ones to be avoided?

I use most sockets with a 3/8" drive, but the ones I most probably need this tool for will be the bigger 1/2" stuff. Should I get 3/8" dr and use an adapter for 1/2" sockets, or vice versa?

Also, what should I be looking for in this tool? Obviously the max torque, but what else? I guess battery life is important but I don't see that listed on the specs. There's also rpm, but I'm not sure how that affects this tool except the speed at which it'll get stuff off (not so critical for me). Also what kind of power wattage should I be looking for, and what voltage?

Also what does "impact per minute" mean and what should I look for? Thanks in advance.

 

[diesel research]

Mossyboy is suggesting you find a used SO impact. Myself and him raced to ****** up one here in the classified (with a drill) for maybe $275 or so. He won. Would cost $600 new for those pieces, so half price is decent.

Battery packs wouldn't be a big deal for SO because a majority are using nicad packs which are easily rebuilt by independent shops.

Unfortunately a lot of the specs are covered in shrouds of mystery. The torque spec for example is achieved by letting the impact hammer and beat for many seconds with the fastener/shaft barely moving. Exactly how long they allow it to hammer is the mystery, and maybe not realistic.

Specs almost seem meaningless since 2 identically spec'ed guns often differ greatly in actual performance.

I wouldn't expect most of them to break something free that you couldn't do by hand with a reasonably long breaker bar.

As far as driver vs wrench, no, they both hammer. Some brands like to call them different things, some people call all of the cordless as drivers, others separate the 2 by hex drive or square drive.

 

[oilslick]

bang for buck cant beat the Dewalt for 225 on sale at homedepot, but it is no match for my snap on, I have both you know which one is at home shop!

 

[shoot summ]

I've got a Dewalt 14.4v impact, it is HANDY....

I use it alot, and granted there are some things it won't do, but did I say it is HANDY?

I picked it up cheap, can't remember where but it was under $75 with a battery.

 

[Valkyrie Rider]

If you aren't going to use it much at all, and have no compressor, I would be looking at CORDED impacts. The cordless batteries don't like sitting around a lot and barely being used. The batteries are also quite expensive to replace.

 

[freeskier]

buddy has a snap on 1/4 inch impact and i love it, been looing for a used one for ever. great for quic assembly but no good for what you need. i say go used SO.

 

[jvitez]

If you aren't going to use it much at all, and have no compressor, I would be looking at CORDED impacts. The cordless batteries don't like sitting around a lot and barely being used. The batteries are also quite expensive to replace.

You took the words right outta my big mouth. Batteries are often almost as expensive as buying a whole new driver. Li-Ion batteries have the best shelf life, but for such infrequent use get a corded impact driver. They're all made in China anyway it seems, so get the cheapest you can find for once a year use.

You can always buy an air impact wrench and get a small compressor, like a 6 gal pancake compressor. It will have very limited run time, but again for once a year or so use, there is no need to get fancy/spend lots. I'd just get a corded driver if I were in your situation.

 

[AZ_Catskinner]

When I used to work in smelter maintenance we used the Dewalt corded impacts for just about everything up to ¾" hard bolts (1-¼" heads) and never had any problems. Cordless isn't worth it unless you use it regularly and need that portability.

I've thinned out my cordless stuff to a 3/8 drill, a CT525 ¼" impact and CTS561 screwdriver, and one of those cheap Black and Decker cordless screwdrivers that uses AA batteries. Battery costs are just too high to justify keeping too many cordless tools around.

 

[PepperCrab]

Thanks for the tips. I'll look for a corded wrench then. Any recommendations among these brands?

Borsh, Makita, Hitachi, DeWalt, and Ingersoll Rand

 

[BajaBound]

I really dig my craftsman c3 but with a lithium battery. NiCad ***** on them!