cordless impact wrench

[amwalker]

I have one of the older HF impact wrenches, probably 5 years old. It didn't work when I went to use it last night, so I put the battery back on the charger and the charger isn't work. Damn $150, now I need to tear the charger apart and see what burned up. Maybe it's the 50hz power here. Moral of the story, you might as well get one and try it out. Follow Chris' advice on the batteries.

Adam

 

[strizzy]

Don't laugh, but a cordless impact worth checking out is the Goodyear 24v ones.

 

[willot1]

In reference to the Snap on Cordless impacts, what is the difference when talking about "Pinned anvil version". What is this, ie: is this something that is desirable or just an option?

 

[amwalker]

Update, on the ole' HF impact. The battery drops it's charge after 30 seconds, so it's toast. The charger is good, led lights on the front don't work and a wire came loose inside off the switch on the wrench.

(Thread-Jack)Anyone know how big of a soldering gun/iron you need to replace the individual batteries?(end Thread-Jack)

 

[Mike83]

The pinned anvil has a super duper socket retention pin on the square drive...I believe that is what they mean by that. IMO those are a pita to work with. The regular friction ball is what I like, but if you need the extra holding power the pinned version is the way to go.

 

[Vicegrip]

Ingersol makes a very nice impact gun. light and it has a good VSR trigger. The Milwaukee is nutty heavy. The DeWalt and HF cheapfest is not VSR. I have a Snap-on and will replace it with a Ingersol when the battery craps out. Snappy wants $135 of the battery alone. The ingersol is something like $350 with 2 batteries. I used a friends and it handles and hits well. I wish the DeWalt was VSR as I hive a tone of 18V stuff already. VSR is important. You can set 10MM nuts or blast a hub nut off. it also lets you slowly spin to see that the lug nut or bolt is not crossed then hammer it home.

 

[sunshineFC3s]

Ingersol makes a very nice impact gun. light and it has a good VSR trigger. The Milwaukee is nutty heavy. The DeWalt and HF cheapfest is not VSR. I have a Snap-on and will replace it with a Ingersol when the battery craps out. Snappy wants $135 of the battery alone. The ingersol is something like $350 with 2 batteries. I used a friends and it handles and hits well. I wish the DeWalt was VSR as I hive a tone of 18V stuff already. VSR is important. You can set 10MM nuts or blast a hub nut off. it also lets you slowly spin to see that the lug nut or bolt is not crossed then hammer it home.

I have the Dewalt 18v, and it has a variable speed trigger (or what you call VSR?) As in I can put just a bit of pressure on the trigger, and it spins slowly - as in your lug nut example. It works great. I used the Snappy and my dewalt side by side at the track doing pit stop tire changes...and while the snappy is clearly more powerful, its also much heavier and bulkier. So depending on your needs, I would choose accordingly. The dewalt is much nicer to work with for basic assembly and dissasembly. The Snappy is better in a situation when your in a jam. I did some research on the IR's and they seem very very nice. But back when I bought the dewalt, IR just released the press release on the new impacts, and I didnt want to wait for them to hit the retailers.
-a

 

[grillmasterp]

what is the difference when talking about "Pinned anvil version". What is this, ie: is this something that is desirable or just an option?

I prefer a ball detent or rounded pin for socket retention.

The regular pins lock the socket onto the the sq drive -
Before I swapped out detents on my milwaukee- I had to find a twig or nail to release the sockets - Or just permanently leave a short extension on the gun.

 

[MAD]

(Thread-Jack)Anyone know how big of a soldering gun/iron you need to replace the individual batteries?(end Thread-Jack)

I posted this in an older thread:

I rebuilt a battery pack for a Craftsman cordless drill using the cells from the battery of one of those super cheap drills like they sell at H.F.. Even though a lot of the cells from the donor battery were already connected together in the proper configuration to fit the Craftsman case, the few tabs that I had to separate and re-solder were a real pain. Hand soldered connections are a little bulkier than the factory ultrasonic spot welds which makes it difficult to fit the cells back into the case. Although this project was successful, I would not do it again. I would rank this one on the time wasting scale a little above baking your own saltine crackers from scratch.

I used a 100 watt gun. It was not a problem to make the solder connections but it was hard to get the cells back in the case with the bulky solder joints.

 

[billymade]

You might just ship out the battery packs to have them rebuilt; there are quite a few of these places that do the service !
http://www.google.com/search?client...ool+battery+pack+rebuilding&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8
These guys sell a ton of batteries for many different brands and do rebuilding as well! http://www.batteriesplus.com/
You may have one near you; put in your area code to find out! http://www.batteriesplus.com/t-storeloc.aspx