core drill

[nadogail]

I would contract it out.

 

[sparky 1971]

You can’t bolt a roto-hammer. But if we’re talking a core drill with 2”+ bit, then IMO it needs to be bolted. Most core drill, not talking drills or roto-hammers, have a base which bolts to something.

I have a 1, 1-1/2, 2, 2-1/2, 3-1/2 core bits.. They all fit in a Roto hammer and I've never had a problem with any of them binding up. 1-1/8 or 1-1/2 regular bits turn the spline drive into a wrist breaker.. They are slow and get heavy, but manageable. I have a SDS Max and 5" core bit on order, should have it by November 15. Maybe those two holes will change my mind.

 

[billconner]

Photos. Behind boiler hole will be ~4" to right if pipe on wall and ~18" below top of drywall. In room, hole is approximately where circle is. Existing slab elevation varies ~1 1/2". I haven't a final selection on baseboard radiator, but where supply and return go through wall there is no fin tube, just empty cover. I attach detail of one radiator I'm looking at. Given the inability to drill from boiler side, the exact height above slab of pipes, and not yet selected radiator, I believe a large hole with lots of play is necessary. The idea of a 4" cored hole is very appealing. Can even sweat fittings on and pass through.

fwiw, I plan to finish drywall walls - finish paint - then install floor - vapor barrier, sleepers, foam, ply, strip flooring - then radiators last - around three sides - half or more just pipes.

 

[AC-WC]

Rent one from the box store. I can say the SDS is way better than the standard hammer drill with masonry bits. Especially the diameter you're doing.
Unless you think you may need again in the future???

 

[billconner]

Talking to a concrete worker we who moonlights on Saturdays. He has a hand held core drill and bits. I'll see what he says for price.

 

[Retroman]

Your talking about a HH core drill with diamond bit water cooled correct? 4" hole is about max in concrete being down low is much easier than overhead. Toughest part of coring the ICF walls is the Black plastic that spaces the foam panels and holds the rebar that stuff just does not cut well with a diamond bit. Make sure he has a wet vac for slurry cleanup. He won't be there more than an hour from the time he pulls in until he leaves. If he wants more than $200 I would look for another option.

 

[billconner]

I figured I could provide clean up. SS Milwaukee vac. Have hose ready, etc. Was hoping for closer to $100 than $200.

Will have to look at ties. It's the kind of system made up of 2" XPS planks and ties, not the molded block style.

 

[billconner]

Just an update. So I picked up my son's 1-9/16" Spline Rotary Hammer, a Milwaukee 5316-20. He's sending me a 4" diamond bit - for use dry - and the mandrel (?) to use it with spline drive. So far no cost. I'll take pics (unless I break my wrist).

 

[billconner]

Toughest part of coring the ICF walls is the Black plastic that spaces the foam panels and holds the rebar that stuff just does not cut well with a diamond bit.

Thinking about this. Looking at wall, it seems if I move center to right an inch or so, should not be a big problem on other side, and maybe a 1/4 to 1/2 inch lower, I should avoid the plastic ties and horizontal rebar. I dont know if there is anyway to easily locate vertical rebar.

 

[Retroman]

I think you just need to try and drill a hole and if you hit rebar move on a 45 degree angle so your not on the same horizontal and vertical plane.

 

[bb29510]

just hire it out

 

[billconner]

Through! Easy peasy.

 

[Rusted Nut]

Nice!