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Corian counter tops

phred

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Apr 23, 2009
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I received about 16’ of corian tops from a friend that was remodeling is place. I need to join some sections together to fit the cabinets in my new shop. I know there is a specific adhesive mad for this but it’s pricey and I only need to make 2 joints. Does anyone have experience with this using a standard epoxy?


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glentre

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Gloucester, Virginia
Yes, you can join them together with epoxy glue. Suggest you search on-line for various how-to-do posts on DIY Corian seaming. The commercial seaming epoxy is colored to match the core material so the final seam can be made invisible. But, seeing a seam in your shop is not likely a problem. To get a perfect seam, you might want to push the two sections together and hold them in place. Then, using a straight edge and a straight router bit, run the router the full length of the seam, routing both edges at the same time to give you a perfect matching seam. Note that Corian scratches quite easily, especially if used as a work bench.

Glen
 

M3Pilot

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The easy scratching can be an asset to a point. You can wetsand the scratches & polish & look good as new.
 
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phred

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Thanks Glen. I’ve got lots of experience joining acrylics and MEK has always been my go to for this. Corian needs something with “body” to help fill imperfections. I may use a contrasting color in the epoxy as I know I’ll never match the base material color.


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rlitman

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Yes, you can join them together with epoxy glue. Suggest you search on-line for various how-to-do posts on DIY Corian seaming. The commercial seaming epoxy is colored to match the core material so the final seam can be made invisible. But, seeing a seam in your shop is not likely a problem. To get a perfect seam, you might want to push the two sections together and hold them in place. Then, using a straight edge and a straight router bit, run the router the full length of the seam, routing both edges at the same time to give you a perfect matching seam. Note that Corian scratches quite easily, especially if used as a work bench.

Glen

Corian is not seamed commercially with epoxy. It is done with a 2-part acrylic adhesive.

I've used epoxy on corian, and strongly suggest not using epoxy. Cyanoacrylate gives a stronger (though very brittle) bond. On a countertop seam, with well jointed surfaces, epoxy will fail. It just doesn't have the necessary adhesion. When I glued corian strips to my tablesaw fence, both sides failed the first winter.

I have since repaired that with Gorilla clear non-foaming glue, and it has been just fine for the following years, but epoxy was a disaster. And the Gorilla just isn't good for a **** seam.
 

rsanter

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Can I ask why you need to join them?
How about make a good clean and square cut on each and construction adhesive then to the base pulling the seam tight. And then call it good
 

steaks&anvils

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Maybe find a counter install guy who will come glue those for cash? You get everything ready, he comes, brings the glue, glues it, gets the cash and leaves.

I did this for a small carpet fix I needed. Best $40 I've spent. He had tools, skill and know how.

Sometimes a little money paid out is the way to go.
 

ooba tooba

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Maybe find a counter install guy who will come glue those for cash? You get everything ready, he comes, brings the glue, glues it, gets the cash and leaves.

I did this for a small carpet fix I needed. Best $40 I've spent. He had tools, skill and know how.

Sometimes a little money paid out is the way to go.

I would do this for sure in my house (former countertop guy) but in the shop... I would take a square to the front and tape under the squared off seam to be, draw the square line and cut them sand to line. Repeat with opposite side and join together with construction adhesive. If you have 2 suction cups you can place one on each piece and pull together with a ratchet strap shimming the bottom so seams line up. Check with razor blade edge and keep a long level on it.
 
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phred

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Can I ask why you need to join them?
How about make a good clean and square cut on each and construction adhesive then to the base pulling the seam tight. And then call it good


The seam needs to be watertight as it is will be the sink area for my shop. I’ll give the construction adhesive a test on some cutoffs.


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rlitman

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I would do this for sure in my house (former countertop guy) but in the shop... I would take a square to the front and tape under the squared off seam to be, draw the square line and cut them sand to line. Repeat with opposite side and join together with construction adhesive. If you have 2 suction cups you can place one on each piece and pull together with a ratchet strap shimming the bottom so seams line up. Check with razor blade edge and keep a long level on it.

That'll work, but I'm sticking with my clear Gorilla non-foaming glue recommendation. Construction adhesive is just another form of urethane adhesive that's thickened to deal with gaps. The clear Gorilla is thin like honey, and will work better in a relatively tight fitting joint.

Either way, this sort of joint needs full framed support from underneath if you expect it to not fail.
 

xj0517

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MI
We fabricate close to 800sqft of Corian every day where I work. We use Integra Adhesives surface bonder Xi. If you can find out the color of Corian you can get a glue match that’s almost perfect with Integra.

Instead of buying the appropriate dispenser you can use a couple screwdrivers and push both parts of the epoxy onto a sheet of cardboard and mix with another piece of cardboard before pushing into the seam.

Rip 3/4 plywood into 2” strips and hot glue them on both sides of the seam (on edge) and use pony clamps to keep seam tight.
 

rlitman

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We fabricate close to 800sqft of Corian every day where I work. We use Integra Adhesives surface bonder Xi. If you can find out the color of Corian you can get a glue match that’s almost perfect with Integra.

Instead of buying the appropriate dispenser you can use a couple screwdrivers and push both parts of the epoxy onto a sheet of cardboard and mix with another piece of cardboard before pushing into the seam.

Rip 3/4 plywood into 2” strips and hot glue them on both sides of the seam (on edge) and use pony clamps to keep seam tight.

Two things. You are talking about (in their words), an "Epoxy Modified Methacrylate Adhesive for Quartz, Natural Stone, Solid Surface, Ceramic and more".

The most important word there is Methacrylate. That's an acrylic adhesive, not actually a true epoxy. And yes, that would be completely appropriate for Corian. My point above about epoxy are specifically about epoxy you find in a store, which will not bond very well with Corian.

Also, with 10:1 adhesives, it is pretty important to get the mix ratio correct. You absolutely can do that with screwdrivers, but just keep an eye on the depth into the tube and make sure they're pushed in equally.

Kind of an off white. Don’t know the actual color unless it is printed on the back of the material. Never actually looked

The real Corian pieces I have all have printing on the back.
 

NETexas

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Attached
If the adhesive is clear, I have seen granite installers mix granite dust from their cuts into the adhesive to help blend blend or match the color. Worked well on the joints.


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yeldogt

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It's been a while -- but, I think you can get more than one full joint out of the small tube ...

This is one of those times where it just easier to use the proper stuff .... I paid under $25 a few years ago.

Hot glue clamp blocks -- I did top and bottom
 
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