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Corner Flashing - Gable Overhang and Wall

bobsled_time

Member
Joined
Nov 21, 2019
Messages
8
Location
Greenville, SC
Pictures will explain my question better than words, but I'm working on a barn renovation and I started with the "lean-to" style shed roof addition. I've replaced the roof for this section and re-framed the rotted out back wall. In the process of redoing the roof, I added a 1' gable overhang to both sides. I'm eventually going to do the same for the barn itself.

Before I start on the siding, I need to figure out how to flash the section of wall/roof right below the "end wall" of the barn where the gable overhang meets the wall. Any ideas? I know from looking at other structures that this is a relatively common junction but I can't find any details via Google searches (probably because I don't know what to call it).

I can get a sheet of metal flashing (to match the roof paint color/texture) cut and broken in whatever orientation I need it and I've also considered using flashing tape (but obviously I don't want the tape to be visible on the back of the overhang if I go that route).

Images: https://imgur.com/a/XPkVs89
 
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southernfriedcj

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 28, 2005
Messages
421
Location
Athens, GA
We run the end wall flashing(the flashing on your short knee wall that the metal roof runs under) long by 2" or so past the corner. Then counter flash the backside, run your corner board(slot it to run over the extended end wall flashing) and siding on the side wall(The wall where you have osb), caulk and paint.

I would **** the fascia and frieze from the shed into the corner. Since the fascia and frieze is already there I would notch the corner to fit.

Use a high quality caulk and you'll be in good shape.
 
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matt_i

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 14, 2008
Messages
10,725
Location
SE Michigan
That's a tough detail because of the 3 planes intersecting. I think you have to approach it in one of two ways.

1- use a sheetmetal you can join with welding or soldering. Steel would work except for its nasty propensity to corrode. Stainless steel tig welded would be ultimate, but copper is probably an easier choice. While this would be ultimate in water-tightness you might not like the look of it.

2- Use trim coil as you suggested. On the plane of the roof you'd want a couple pieces which look like step flashings for a shingled roof, just an "L" shape that meet at the outside corner. I drew up a potential detail that would be reliant on some sealant. But one edge sticks out thru a slot in your corner siding. The long continuous piece is aligned with the downslope of the roof as that channel will actually carry flowing water while the corner behind it just has to deal with drips coming down the vertical face.

 
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