Correct A/C tubbing

[fifth]

Got a great deal on a fairly new 3 ton unit... Now to install. The original copper tubing is 7/8 OD, is this what I'm needing:

https://www.grainger.com/product/4P...1237!&ef_id=WOhaIgAABRnMeBSP:20170825125702:s

Also, can the fittings be sweated on like water pipes or do they require brazing?

 

[mrpizza]

You need to insulate that line as well. You have to braze it.

 

[metlmunchr]

You'd be better off to go to a HVAC supply house and buy a line set which would include a pre-insulated suction line and a liquid line. The tubing will be Type ACR and it will be cleaned, nitrogen charged, and sealed. Same thing can be ordered online from Amazon or online HVAC supply houses. Complete line set won't cost a lot more than what Grainger's price is just for the coil of soft copper you linked.

The connections should be brazed with 15% sil-phos. You'll need either an oxy-acetyene rig or a turbo torch to get sufficient heat to make the joints.

Based on your question, I assume you are unfamiliar with this work. Unless you're willing to make a significant investment in tools that have no real use outside HVAC work, you might come out far cheaper by having someone connect and charge the unit. You can easily spend $1000 on the necessary basic tools even if you already have the required brazing rig.

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

Stay Brite 8 and a turbo torch/Mapp gas will work.

 

[Bentzin]

Working in the HVAC field, I would strongly advise you not to try and install it yourself. You can set the unit, run the line set and do the electrical but to properly install an AC you need to evacuate the system after the line set is brazed in. Evacuating the system boils off any moisture that IS in the system by reducing the internal pressure using a vacuum pump to get to a negative pressure measured in microns. You might be able to pull it off. It will run but not for long.

Hope this helps.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[fifth]

Working in the HVAC field, I would strongly advise you not to try and install it yourself. You can set the unit, run the line set and do the electrical but to properly install an AC you need to evacuate the system after the line set is brazed in. Evacuating the system boils off any moisture that IS in the system by reducing the internal pressure using a vacuum pump to get to a negative pressure measured in microns. You might be able to pull it off. It will run but not for long.

Hope this helps.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks my plan, run the copper and let a pro braze and fill the system.

 

[fifth]

You'd be better off to go to a HVAC supply house and buy a line set which would include a pre-insulated suction line and a liquid line. The tubing will be Type ACR and it will be cleaned, nitrogen charged, and sealed. Same thing can be ordered online from Amazon or online HVAC supply houses. Complete line set won't cost a lot more than what Grainger's price is just for the coil of soft copper you linked.

The connections should be brazed with 15% sil-phos. You'll need either an oxy-acetyene rig or a turbo torch to get sufficient heat to make the joints.

Based on your question, I assume you are unfamiliar with this work. Unless you're willing to make a significant investment in tools that have no real use outside HVAC work, you might come out far cheaper by having someone connect and charge the unit. You can easily spend $1000 on the necessary basic tools even if you already have the required brazing rig.

Chance you could post a link to a line set so I get a better idea?

 

[Ohmthis]

Here is a link to a line set similar to what has been discussed. DO NOT order this based on talk here. Find out in the install manual what is required for your unit. Hope this helps.

http://www.supplyhouse.com/Bluefin-LS038075-35-3-8-LL-x-3-4-SL-x-35-ft-Refrigerant-Line-Set

 

[acmikee]

keep the line set clean and dry. leave the plastic end caps on the line set or wrap with electrical tape..

 

[eddieK]

Yes - You need clean piping, preferably nitrogen charged - brazed connections or 6% silver solder with Mapp gas.

You should also install a liquid line filter drier

You need to perform a nitrogen leak test, system holding at least 350 - 400 lbs pressurized nitrogen for 30 minutes (Leaks are extremely expensive to recharge)

Then evacuate to 500 microns -

Then either weigh in charge or run and add charge until you obtain 8 - 16 degress sub cooling

Indoor coil MUST match capacity and refrigerant type, if the indoor coil is piston instead of TXV then you do a super heat reading for charge.

Failure to follow this could cost you the compressor and/or a LOT of time/money

 

[LS6 Tommy]

Yes - You need clean piping, preferably nitrogen charged - brazed connections or 6% silver solder with Mapp gas.

You should also install a liquid line filter drier

You need to perform a nitrogen leak test, system holding at least 350 - 400 lbs pressurized nitrogen for 30 minutes (Leaks are extremely expensive to recharge)

Then evacuate to 500 microns -

Then either weigh in charge or run and add charge until you obtain 8 - 16 degress sub cooling

Indoor coil MUST match capacity and refrigerant type, if the indoor coil is piston instead of TXV then you do a super heat reading for charge.

Failure to follow this could cost you the compressor and/or a LOT of time/money

X2. Charge for subcooling with an expansion valve, superheat on a fixed metering device. The condensing unit should have a chart showing the correct amount inside the cover...

Tommy

 

[jkuro]

X2 Stay Brite 8 and a turbo torch/Mapp gas will work