Correct Box for Flood Lights in Soffit

[bad_idea]

I am in process of building a 30x40 stick built garage. 2x6 studded walls and trusses. 1' overhang all the way around. Shingled and vinyl siding. I am at the point I will be installing the vented vinyl soffit panels this week. I am going to install electrical at a later date (when funds become available). I plan to install flood lights in the eaves. I would like to install the appropriate electrical boxes in the eaves with string fished into them before I put the soffit panels up. That way when I get to the electrical it will just be a matter of cutting the holes in the soffit panel and pulling the wire through. What box do I need to install?

Thanks all.

 

[walta]

Given your plan to use a string I would put a pancake box on the bottom of a 2x4 so you can remove the box fish your wire and reinstall the box.

Walta



https://www.lowes.com/pd/RACO-1-Gan...ling-Pans-Celing-Wall-Electrical-Box/3129509#

 

[Marctrees]

Yup.

"Ceiling Pan" box, readily available at any Big Box.

All told, what i did as a Contractor...

If loosey goosey flimsy Vinyl was to be applied..

When "roughing in" wiring, would hang romex tail down, stapled to "Lookout" 2x4,

Siding guys would then come and apply their finish and leave romex hanging out a small hole...

Then, to finish, I would push the cable into the soffitt,

And carefully hole saw underside of Lookout..

Grab wire, and mount Ceiling Pan box.

General idea anyway, you can figure out what's best for you.

In more rigid like plywood soffit, would use "Old work" round box... in the cavity, NOT under a 2x.

Marc

 

[bad_idea]

I didn't realize it could be so simple. If that is acceptable, then I think I will hold off all together until I am ready to do the electrical. Should be easy enough to fish the wire over the top plate through a hole in the soffit big enough for that box later. For now I will make sure there is wood in the area I want the lights. Thanks guys.

 

[Zeke]

Watch out for fill requirements using pancakes. Only one 14/2 allowed in, no pig tails linking boxes. I would either not install boxes, just the wire, or install 4" round fixture boxes with the wire made up.

I agree that the string is not going to work. Unless your boxes are <4' OC, you can't staple the cable in span and you will have a hell of a time stapling <8" from the box (for plastic, 12" for metal).

 

[Falcon67]

I just punched holes for the wire. Either way I'd go pop for your fixtures now and run the wire back to a convenient tie off point where you can pick it up later. Copper is cheap, a 250' roll of 14 or 12 isn't much - comparatively.

 

[bad_idea]

Now you guys speak up! I have already installed the soffit panels. Looks like it may prove joyous to install the lights later. That is a problem for January or February (if I stay on schedule). I was hesitant to route the cable now as I do not have an electrical permit yet. I want to get the building signed off, move in, then pull a permit for electrical. I am building this mostly myself as funds become available.

 

[Marctrees]

In reality, when installing recessed cans or boxes in soffitt, whether surface pan or flush old work, The stapling within 8 or 12" is often ignored by all.

It would be a pretty darn odd Inspector to nail you for ending up with some unstapled slack in an enclosed soffitt.

***** But, use somekinda approved CLAMPING variety of connector.

Either the plastic clamping ones, or the old two screw if metal box.

If using a ceiling pan, buy the ones w integral clamps.

As shown in photo above.

Unless, you have KO available to use on back.

In the real world... Tails are hung at Roughin by electrician, , later let out through little quick rough hole by whoever is installing the finish, then dealt w by Electrician upon trim out return.

Overall, the most common way we did this was with round plastic old work boxes w the toggle bolt like back clamp..

And appropriate hole saw.

They have integral clamps.

If the job called for an old style double flood, we would use ceiling pan surface mounted (for a dead end one cable run anyway),

And then we would mount a double flood typically Swivelier" brand that had a CANOPY mount meaning it was deep enough to cover the box 5/8" projection.

No need to hole saw on a ladder then.

Marc

 

[Marctrees]

Usually, also we did similar for wall mount lights..

Especially if being sided w anykinda lap wood..

You don't know the course elevations..

So the siding guy hangs the tail through a small hole .

Marc

 

[Marctrees]

Same kinda deal for lights above lavs.

When you roughin, one rarely knows what fixture will be chosen.

So, you just leave a large loose loop in the stud cavity centered on the lav.

Rockers and tapers and painters finish..

Electrician returns and judiciously punches hammer hole centered above bowl.. pulls out loop, and proceeds.

Marc

 

[matt_i]

I'd put in an octagon box or a 4" square box. I think I'd use the galvanized/steel versions because anything underneath is going to hang from the screw threads. If you used blue plastic then the fixture, etc, hangs from those formed threads in the plastic. They're OK but there are some compromises. The steel fastener in a steel tapped hole won't give up easily.

 

[bad_idea]

I had not thought of the weight of the fixture hanging from the threads in the box. Good call on the metal box.

Marctrees, thank you for the insight on how professionals build. I am a DIY homeowner, so fortunately I am not getting paid to do this. I say fortunately, because at the pace I work my family would starve.