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Correct hammer for cold chisel / punch

Tomthumb717

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Looking for some advice on what the correct hammer would be to use with cold chisels and punches. Both material and type. If there is a choice, i would be more willing to sacrifice the material on the hammer verses the tool being struck. Any help would be appreciated.
 
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jimreed2160

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Well I used a ball peen hammer for years to punch letters and numbers in steel. Over time, the top of frequently used numbers began to deform. Now I use one of those Basa hammers with hickory faces. It has less rebound and I think the hickory will deform before the punches do.
 

dr_clyde

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Most folks use a ball pein hammer. Works great for most situations. My favorite is a mac brand dead blow, brass face on one side and plastic on the other. The brass face puts a good lick on the punch without mushrooming them.
 

Millwrong

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Chisels and punches should occasionally be ground back to shape - at both ends! What is so special about your hammer that you can't "damage" it by hitting a chisel?
 

Mr Ratchet

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Ball peen whether a dead blow or solid type. I keep my chisels and punches dressed and have yet to wear one out.
 
OP
T

Tomthumb717

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Thank you for the insight. If purchasing and using a ball peen what material should i look for there seem to be many types out there such as steel, brass, copper and what side should be used to strike the punch/chisel.
 

mrjaw14

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Well that depends. Brass and copper may be too soft is using a steel chisel to cut with, but may be ok for using with a punch on a roll pin. . If cutting with a chisel a steel hammer may be the only thing that will hit hard enough. The punch and chisel will mushroom, but as was previously stated, you gave to grind it back to shape. Part of it unfortunately. Just keep them groomed so that chunks of metal don’t fly off when struck.
 

potato

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drilling hammer.its what they are made for.
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plinker

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Steel ball peen or other, depends on the size of the punch/chisel and how much force is needed.

Brass and other soft metals will eventually fragment with use and send chunks flying.
 

Mr Ratchet

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I'm not sure why you would use a soft face hammer of any kind when beating on a hard chisel trying to bust off a hard steel rivet. The soft material in this combination will come out on the loosing end. Sure you can eventually bust the rivet if the chisel is sharp. But, man what a lot of extra effort and accelerated wear on the hammer face.
 

Dingleburry

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chisels are heat treated differently so the striking end mushrooms by design, the body is stiff so it dosend bend and the face/edge is hardest to resist deformation.

Oh and ive always used a ball peen. I prefer non dead blow. The chisel/punch acts as a deadblow! Chisel striking faces are supposed to deform. Just grind it off. Or itll chip off when struck if you dont clean up the striking end
 
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d.mcfarland

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This might be the place to say that a plastic face dead blow would fit the bill.

I've always just used a ball peen and have never have a problem other than smashing a finger on accident. Maybe the larger face of the dead blow would help prevent that though.
 

Wamsutta

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chisels are heat treated differently so the striking end mushrooms by design, the body is stiff so it dosend bend and the face/edge is hardest to resist deformation.

Oh and ive always used a ball peen. I prefer non dead blow. The chisel/punch acts as a deadblow! Chisel striking faces are supposed to deform. Just grind it off. Or itll chip off when struck if you dont clean up the striking end

Why is that? That could save me a lot of money if I knew why.
 
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mfewtrail

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Ball pein or drilling hammer is what I've always used.

This might be the place to say that a plastic face dead blow would fit the bill.

I've always just used a ball peen and have never have a problem other than smashing a finger on accident. Maybe the larger face of the dead blow would help prevent that though.

Get a chisel holder. It's not something you absolutely need, but it will save your fingers.
 

cmandp

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Ball peen for less delicate work. For delicate stuff or using letter stamps I like to use a brass hammer, it doesn't rebound so much and won't hurt the expensive (relatively) stamps.
 

DFB

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Most guys use a ballpein on pin punches or drifts.

That drilling hammer is great for heavy chisels especially brick/block/stone

Most times with hammers weight can be your friend :D

Cripes down at work the owners son was trying to remove the blade pin retainers on brush hog we been beating on for years with a small drilling hammer and a big ripping bar for chisel point. Was at it all day with no success. I walked up with a 20lb sledge hammer and two strikes it came free! :lol:
 

rlitman

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Why is that? That could save me a lot of money if I knew why.



A deadblow serves a specific purpose. It reduces rebound. This is useful in confined spaces, and when hitting bouncy things that would kick the hammer back in a bad way.

When hitting a chisel (or working over an anvil) a little rebound helps reset the hammer position for the next blow, and makes your life easier. Using a deadblow for this puts more strain on your elbow.
 

Finky198

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^^^^You need both in the common sizes. And in all different styles.

I like the snappy 16 oz dbbp and Craftsman 16 oz Vaughan rebrands those are my go to’s for punches and chisels.

In my op you can never have enough hammers...

The Estwing 3 and 4 lbs ers are excellent as well. The smaller being great due to the short handle it can ease access on front end stuff...

My favorites for big pins...etc are the snappy 40oz dbbp, 8lb 24” slege, and a custom 12lbs 18” sledge and if nothing else will move it. I can launch it across the shop with the air hammer....
 
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Tallpilot

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Orlando
This might be the place to say that a plastic face dead blow would fit the bill.

I've always just used a ball peen and have never have a problem other than smashing a finger on accident. Maybe the larger face of the dead blow would help prevent that though.

A chisel holder will also prevent that. I don't guys use them very often though. It takes an extra few seconds to lock it down into the holder.
 

Wamsutta

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A deadblow serves a specific purpose. It reduces rebound. This is useful in confined spaces, and when hitting bouncy things that would kick the hammer back in a bad way.

When hitting a chisel (or working over an anvil) a little rebound helps reset the hammer position for the next blow, and makes your life easier. Using a deadblow for this puts more strain on your elbow.

Thanks! :)
 

Aberdale

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I just use the back side of a ratchet. If it's a big chisel, I'll add a pipe to the handle.
 

6PTsocket

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With the cost of a Snap-on dead blow ball peen, I'd rather sacrifice the punch or chisel.
Snap On people, cover your ears and close your eyes. To beat in a cold chisel you DO NOT NEED TO USE AN EXPENSIVE
SNAP ON HAMMER. BTW, why would you buy a hammer that is too expensive to beat on stuff ? Does Snap On even make hammers or just rebrand and jack the price ?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 

Stumble

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New Orleans, LA
So long as the hammer isn't cast iron I can't see that it makes much of a difference. Brass or bronze are non-sparking alternatives that were much more common when cast iron hammers were still used because they will deform instead of shatter. But modern hammers made from steel won't shatter either and are much cheaper.
 

leg17

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So long as the hammer isn't cast iron I can't see that it makes much of a difference. Brass or bronze are non-sparking alternatives that were much more common when cast iron hammers were still used because they will deform instead of shatter. But modern hammers made from steel won't shatter either and are much cheaper.

When were hammers made from cast iron?
 
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