mattdwelder
Well-known member
you never put a vapor barrier in the ceiling
Correct way to do OSB ceiling
- Thread starter jeepnatv4life
- Start date
Ha, that's what I said too. I have a serious dislike of working with drywall.
But I'm sticking with the idea you'll be happier with metal up there.
DougWil
Well-known member
Well actually polyethylene plastic sheeting is a vapor retarder not a barrier and some form of vapor retarder which can include vapor retarding paint is required in many areas.
Everything you didn't want to know about vapor barriers/retarders.
http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com...cy-and-durability/23190/vapor-barrier-ceiling
and
http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/vapor-retarders-and-vapor-barriers
But what you definitely don't want is multiple layers of retarders trapping moisture between them.
OP
jeepnatv4life
Well-known member
Im gonna run the 2' center 2x4's perpindicular to the truss spans.The ends will be blocked out off the header and the garage door and back wall sides.. Where in the world are you getting 12" nails from???? the truss is only so thick lol
DougWil
Well-known member
That is the nailing pattern.
6" On center (OC) on the sheet's edges, 12" OC in the "field".
OP
jeepnatv4life
Well-known member
That is the nailing pattern.
6" On center (OC) on the sheet's edges, 12" OC in the "field".
ahh i see
This is what I did in my garage for the OSB ceiling, ceiling joists 24"OC and added blocking at 48" for the edges of the sheets. I also staggered the joints.
OP
jeepnatv4life
Well-known member
This is what I did in my garage for the OSB ceiling, ceiling joists 24"OC and added blocking at 48" for the edges of the sheets. I also staggered the joints.
Staggered How? Why?
Along their length (8') they are all the same. The joint all the shorter side (4') are staggered. Although the ceiling is (atleast mine) is more cosmetic than structural, I wanted to make it as strong as possible. Staggering the joints allows sheathing to bridge more trusses. Each consecutive row will tie into another truss or two stiffening up the structure.
The same thing is done on roofs and floors when sheathing is put down.
OP
jeepnatv4life
Well-known member
Along their length (8') they are all the same. The joint all the shorter side (4') are staggered. Although the ceiling is (atleast mine) is more cosmetic than structural, I wanted to make it as strong as possible. Staggering the joints allows sheathing to bridge more trusses. Each consecutive row will tie into another truss or two stiffening up the structure.
The same thing is done on roofs and floors when sheathing is put down.
My trusses are on 4' centers I was gonna run the sheeting from front to back. I was going to put a grid 2' oc for the center and each edge to be nailed to. so start at the east wall and from there nail a 2x4 in between the truss for the 1st edge then 2ft from that nail a 2x4 for the center of the sheet then 2' from that another 2x4 to split the edges of the 2 adjoining sheets.
I dont know how to do the stagger without running the sheeting east and west and the 2x4's north and south??
or do my original plan but the starter on the north end be 4ft and then use that cut on the south end when coming back??? that would acheive a stagger of full sheets not being broke on the same truss joint?
thanks for your help
bandaidmd
Well-known member
did you ask for the lighter gauge (think its called liner) metal. Thats a metal that made for interior use. its about a 1/3 cheaper than the exterior rated. buy or rent a drywall lift whichever way you decide.
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OP
jeepnatv4life
Well-known member
He priced me the non uv protected metal which I assume is interior grade since it has no UV coating
OP
jeepnatv4life
Well-known member
Well upon further review where my truss's came from..... The truss load rating cant support osb plus the 2x4 bracing and be able for a snow load it would be questionable. And i dont want any issues with insurance saying I overloaded the truss if anything were to ever happen.....
Im gonna have to purchase the metal and use funds delgated to other not so essential things..... Just when I thought I had everything figured out....
Im gonna have to purchase the metal and use funds delgated to other not so essential things..... Just when I thought I had everything figured out....
pmiranda
Well-known member
Bummer about the trusses... on the bright side, your back will thank you since it's less heavy lifting and no painting (or taping and mudding).
The center of the next truss should be 96" correct? If your guys laid it out correctly it should all work. you're hanging 48" x 96" and then you start the next row with a 48"x48" and keep going with full sheets.
Good choice, you'll save more labor just on painting and caulking the ceiling then you will ever imagine. I did the 1/2" osb on our attached 30'X32' garage 2' o/c and ended up rolling on 27 gallon of barn and fence paint with the primer and paint mixed together. 3 coats to get the white paint to cover the osb. Keep in mind the interior walls were 10' 3" high and three coats later I said I'd never do that again. Lets not forget to add some labor for caulking all the joints and seams. It sure is bright in there though.
What's metal per sq there? OSB is 8 bucks per sheet which is 33sq. Metal was 1 dollar per sq foot. Even with paint and caulk, OSB is way cheaper. I know 48" centers is a bit much for span, but it's not bad with clips. Unless this is a show garage and getting blown in insulation.
jack stand
Well-known member
I think earlier he said $1.97 Linear foot (3 s/f) = .66c s/f.
Its the only way to go!
Its the only way to go!
Sounds like the choice has been made for you without your knowledge.
If you can borrow a drywall lift, it'll make the job even easier. If you can't borrow one, buy one off CL, use it and sell it for what you paid for it or $20 less. It'll be well worth it.
Hopefully, you have an impact driver, if not, now s the time to buy one. Don't worry, once you have one, you'll use it more than you think.
Just as an FYI, Sherwin Williams sells a moisture barrier paint. most stores dont carry it so you will have to order it... runs about $100 per 5.
Then top coat it with whatever I topped mine with 2 heavy coats of Master Hide gloss (the cheapest **** Sherwin Williams has for my walls, Came out great...
By the way I sprayed mine. Ill get pics up some day.
I also caulked the seams for the first 8' up the walls, looks pretty good.
Then top coat it with whatever I topped mine with 2 heavy coats of Master Hide gloss (the cheapest **** Sherwin Williams has for my walls, Came out great...
By the way I sprayed mine. Ill get pics up some day.
I also caulked the seams for the first 8' up the walls, looks pretty good.
DougWil
Well-known member
Are you sure?
Most trusses are designed for a small load psf on the lower chord.
Enough for sheeting, insulation and wiring,,etc. Not storage!
lakeroadster
Well-known member
Yeah.. but you could roll that Camaro into a chicken coupe and then that would be one awesome chicken coupe....
I used this for the walls and ceiling in my shop: http://www.homedepot.com/p/48-in-x-96-in-Composite-Panel-Siding-25934/202057827
LP SmartSide 96 in. Composite Panel Siding is resistant to fungal decay and termites. It features tongue & Groove edges and an 8 in. vertical design.
It's pre-painted... just install it and forget it.
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mygarageone
Well-known member
Very well done , it's amazing what can be done with materials when you have imagination .
OP
jeepnatv4life
Well-known member
I don't put it anywhere. It will rot the place out.
Why would a barrier of 6 ml plastic under the trusses cause rot?
jives
Well-known member
Here is another option. Don't use metal, OSB, or drywall, but use 4' wide fiberglass batts with a tough skrim vapor barrier facing. It can serve as the finished product.
http://www.steelbuildinginsulation.com/polebuilding.html
It may not be the look you are going for, but if cost is the issue, this it is.
http://www.steelbuildinginsulation.com/polebuilding.html
It may not be the look you are going for, but if cost is the issue, this it is.
larry4406
Well-known member
Lorddiesel is from up north, British Columbia (Canada eh?) vs you in Harrisonburg VA. I think the several hundred miles of latitude difference between BC and VA alters one's approach to this, so you should be looking for local experience.
I fail to see what OSB does or does not do differently than drywall. Here in Northern VA and MD we screw drywall to the bottom of the attic trusses, ZERO vapor barrier, then blow the attic. Standard practice for our climate for new construction for at least 30-40 years here. Adjust your 4' on center trusses with nailers to receive your OSB as needed, screw your OSB to your trusses/nailers, blow it and be done. This assumes you have solved your concerns regarding the trusses having capacity for same.