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Correcting previous owners' mistakes

TWX

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Okay, I've posted here about my fancy super-duper new garage before...

I dug into the electric a little now that we've moved in and I've had time.

There are four 240V breakers in the subpanel, a 40A, two 50A, and a 60A, with nothing at all hooked to the latter.

The 40A was previously hooked to a three-phase converter and goes through all kinds of odd fused switches (four of them in total, I don't know why), but with 10ga solid wiring encased in romex and then run through conduit pipe while along the wall, but just the romex in the exposed ceiling. I suppose that it's possible that the Sharp-branded mill he was using didn't need more than this, but I still thought that 10ga was more for 30A applications than 40A. I have since unhooked the wiring from the breaker to make it safer for me to work on everything. Funny enough, there are four wires in this group, black and white were both hot, and a red was tied off, leaving bare tied into the ground bar.

One 50A is for the heat pump, but instead of the three pair of 6ga stranded wiring I expected for a hot-hot-neutral setup there was a pair of 8ga solid wires on each legs of the hot and a much thinner, bare copper wire (I think 12ga, solid, presumably normally for ground) wired to the neutral bar, all encased together in romex. From what "the rules" indicate, either the the hot wires are too small or else the breaker is too large. Additionally, I assume that if the third wire is on neutral, it should be the same gauge as the other two. This is where I could use advice- should I swap a 40A breaker in place of the 50A that's there now due to the mismatched wire choice, or should I rewire all of the way from the heat pump to the breaker? I do not yet know the electrical demands of the heat pump, but I intend to find out if that really matters.

The circuit that the other 50A breaker was attached to looked like it had been haphazardly changed at some point. There was one 6ga stranded wire on one leg of the breaker, the other leg was empty, and the wire that should have gone to the other leg was wired to the neutral bar. The bare was wired to ground. This was all in conduit pipe, running about 50' across the garage in conduit all of the way to a pair of 120V duplex outlets on the outside of the wall. I assume that at some point they decided they needed 120V instead of 240V at that location, so they modified how it was wired up and didn't change to the appropriate breaker in the subpanel. But, there was a 20A 240V breaker just sitting on top of the subpanel, like they simply forgot to change it out. I unhooked the wiring in the panel when I added a NEMA 6-50 receptacle about a foot below the subpanel and wired it with 6ga stranded for the two hot wires and 10ga stranded for the ground.

The 60A breaker wasn't wired to anything inside the box. I don't know what they were using that for. I also can't think of anything that I'd *need* 60A for either, so that one might simply be replaced, probably with a 50A or maybe with something else...

My air compressor is wired for 240V because when we cobbled it together it kept tripping 120V 20A breakers when wired for 120V. I presume that it could run at 240V 30A, and the plug I used on the compressor is convertible between NEMA 6-50 and NEMA 6-30. I'm considering pulling out all of the wire that had been used for the three-phase stuff (and there's quite a lot of it) to see if there's enough to run all of the way to the back wall outside the workshop to mount the compressor there with a 6-30 receptacle, or if there isn't, if I have to replace the wiring for the HVAC, use that wiring for the 30A circuit for the air compressor. I could then wire the two existing 6ga runs into the same breaker, planning on using only one at a time, to give me 50A service on each side of the garage, depending on if I ever get a welder, and where I'd need to use it.

Any thoughts? I know I do tend to ramble on... Sorry...
 
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Berserker

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One 50A is for the heat pump, but instead of the three pair of 6ga stranded wiring I expected for a hot-hot-neutral setup there was a pair of 8ga solid wires on each legs of the hot and a much thinner, bare copper wire (I think 12ga, solid, presumably normally for ground) wired to the neutral bar, all encased together in romex. From what "the rules" indicate, either the the hot wires are too small or else the breaker is too large. Additionally, I assume that if the third wire is on neutral, it should be the same gauge as the other two. This is where I could use advice- should I swap a 40A breaker in place of the 50A that's there now due to the mismatched wire choice, or should I rewire all of the way from the heat pump to the breaker? I do not yet know the electrical demands of the heat pump, but I intend to find out if that really matters.
..

8ga copper is good for 50 amps. You don't need a neutral if there is no 120v loads. It may just be a motor. as for the 12 ga ground, not sure the code on that. I would have ran bigger, but I also wouldn't starting panicing.

It wouldn't hurt to find the load of the heat pump, but he probably had a 50 there for a reason, you like to think.
 

Berserker

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The circuit that the other 50A breaker was attached to looked like it had been haphazardly changed at some point. There was one 6ga stranded wire on one leg of the breaker, the other leg was empty, and the wire that should have gone to the other leg was wired to the neutral bar. The bare was wired to ground. This was all in conduit pipe, running about 50' across the garage in conduit all of the way to a pair of 120V duplex outlets on the outside of the wall. I assume that at some point they decided they needed 120V instead of 240V at that location, so they modified how it was wired up and didn't change to the appropriate breaker in the subpanel. .

Your saying at the other end the 6ga is hooked straight to a 120V outlet? I kinda doubt it. It could be done if they cut alot of strands off. Are you sure there is not another small fused disconnect or little subpanel somewhere?
 

Berserker

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If they guy had a three phase converter, I wouldn't just start tearing it apart, it could come in handy. I would just leave it alone for now.
 

mrb

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8ga copper is good for 50 amps. You don't need a neutral if there is no 120v loads. It may just be a motor. as for the 12 ga ground, not sure the code on that. I would have ran bigger, but I also wouldn't starting panicing.

It wouldn't hurt to find the load of the heat pump, but he probably had a 50 there for a reason, you like to think.

you cant use 8ga romex for 50 amps. have to use the 60 deg column for romex which is 40 amos for #8
 

Berserker

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Doesn't say if its romex or not. But I am pretty sure 8ga copper is good for 50 amps.
 
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mrb

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Doesn't say if its romex or not. But I am pretty sure 8ga copper is good for 50 amps.

he said romex. 8ga is rated 50 amps (75 deg column) for thwn et al, but is rated 40 amps (60 deg column) for romex. Cant use the 75 deg column for romex.
 

fefarms

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Your heat pump is probably wired correctly.

Motor/compressors, such as found in a heat pump, are one of the hardest-to-start electrical loads. There is a special section of the NEC relating to circuits supplying motor compressors. The heat pump itself provides overload protection, the branch circuit breaker provides short circuit and ground fault protection. This breaker is allowed to be sized at 175 percent of the rated running load amps of the heat pump. If it trips on startup it can be boosted to 250 percent.

It's perfectly reasonable for a heat pump to run at (say) 31 amps and be served by 8 AWG conductors protected by a 50 amp breaker. I suspect the "Romex" in this case has 8 awg conductors and a 10AWG equipment grounding conductor. (It might also be 6AWG conductors with a 10AWG EGC) . Most heat pumps do not need a neutral conductor.
 
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