Corrugated metal siding

[Maxtork]

Hi All,

I am ready to start putting some siding on my new shop and I need some opinions. I was originally planning on doing a 2 ft tall border of corrugated metal all the way around the bottom and then 8 ft sheets of T-111 siding on top of that ( I have 10 ft walls). I figured it out and both the metal siding and the T-111 come out to pretty much the same price. So I thought about just doing metal siding all over the whole thing to get rid of the wood which is known to rot over time. My concern...ok my wife's concern, is that it will look like a big metal warehouse in our backyard. So I thought about running the panels horizontally so it will look a bit more like regular vinyl siding that belongs in a residential setting. Have any of you guys done this? If so can you post a picture? I am also concerned that I already have my entry door and two windows installed. Am I going to have trouble getting them trimmed out since they are in pace before the siding? I am talking about the PBR style panels here that have the flat sections in between raised ridges like you would use for metal roofing. I like the old fashion corrugated stuff that looks like a potato chip and that is what I was going to use for the bottom section in my original plan but the other metal roofing design is what I can get locally for cheap so that is what I am considering for the whole outside.

So...what do you think?

Max

 

[64coupedeluxe]

Hi Mate,

This is done in Australia all the time. It's on houses as well and it looks pretty good. It also looks good with a mix of wood siding. Either the way you first described it or otherwise 1 whole wall and the wall around the corner being wood siding. Like a feature wall.

I don't have a photo but google it, otherwise look on www.houzz.com for plenty of ideas.

I really like the look and when I get around to it I am doing this as a feature wall to my rancher in jersey.

I would say for a lot of guys on here it will be non traditional. It will look like a giant silver box in your backyard, which is why it is great to break it up with the wood siding as well.

Just remember to start with the bottom sheet!

 

[D45]

Would you be installing them directly onto the wood studs?

Are you concerned about the metal panels flexing at all?

Would you be installing furring strips at all?

I'm looking at doing the same think at my shop with 10' tall walls

 

[Maxtork]

Thanks 64 I'm sure it has been done but I didn't know if there were any major downsides to it. Most of the pictures I found online were the metal buildings with corrugated roof panels just hanging over the edge of the roof with not much eave or gable over hang so it looks more like a shed. I did find a few with the two tone look and closed in eaves and sofit that looked much better. I am really warming up to the idea of doing two different colors of metal siding to get a similar look to what I was originally planning. I don't know if it would be possible to run the ribs horizontally on the lower section and then vertical above it but that might be cool.

D45, I already have my OSB sheathing on and I wasn't planning on doing any firring strips. I was just going to screw it directly on to the OSB. I don't know if this is a good idea yet as there wouldn't be any air circulation between the metal and the OSB. Not sure if that is a good thing or bad. There wouldn't be any between the OSB and the T-111. I was hoping that putting the metal right on the OSB would help keep the metal from flexing and looking wavy.

Here is a picture of my shop. It has the two windows and the entry door installed now but not the big garage door.



Thanks
Max

 

[Riverside]

It is possible to get metal siding that looks like clapboard siding. Perhaps that would work for you AND your wife. Check <BradleyBuildings.com>. I don't know if they sell it separately, or only with their buildings though.

Edit: My link doesn't seem to be working, but if you search for "grandbeam" you will find it. It comes in 30" wide panels, like other metal siding.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Two different colors of metal, dark on the bottom and lighter on top. Separated with a piece of metal that inserts under the upper sheets and overhangs the bottom sheets slightly. From 50 ft the visual effect is like two different sidings, or brick and siding.

Charles

 

[duke182]

Riverside,
Metal siding that looks like wood is very common

 

[Kevin54]

What's on your house? The garage should tie into the house visually.

 

[BRIANBB]

Woodgrained Hardie Panel cement boards.

 

[MagKarl]

Do a Google Images search for "pole barn wainscot". It's a good way to go all metal and break up the big walls visually. There are a lot of nice ones out there with overhangs, enclosed soffits, etc. It doesn't have to look like a tin box.

 

[64coupedeluxe]

Hi Max,

You can run the lower ribs horizontal and then sheets above vertical. You just need to trim it out properly just like you would a normal wainscot. It is a nice visual break.

There's not going to be much flexing with it attached to osb.

This is my Guinea fowl pen. The top sheet of t111 would have looked much better if the ribs were vertical but it was easier to put it the way it is, and it's only a bird pen.

Under the bottom sheet is a couple of 2x6's sitting on top of each other. I think the natural wood color goes well with the tin.

 

[D45]

I would rather run the ribs vertical, less chance to trap and hold dirt/debris.....compared to having the ribs run horizontal

 

[Maxtork]

Thanks for all the input guys. I stopped by the metal siding place this afternoon on my way home from work. They have all the J channel and corner trim I would need so I feel more comfortable with the install aspect of it now. They said that you can run it horizontally so I am considering that.

I picked out some nice colors that will compliment the house. I can't really match the house as it is brick but there is a hint of a pale blue color in some of the bricks so I will probably go with that for the upper portion. I was thinking about doing the plain galvalume color along the bottom with white trim in between and around the windows and doors. The white will match the trim on the house.

Since the lower portion of many buildings is brick with normal siding above the brick tends to look a bit heavier and wider. It just gives it a heavier feel on the bottom which I like. So I thought maybe I could do that with the metal siding by running the lower part horizontally and inside out so the large flat areas are away from the wall and the ridges against the wall. Then run the upper part vertically with the normal flat side against the wall and ridges out. Just a thought at this point but picturing it in my mind looks pretty good.

I do have a concern about the metal getting dented. Anyone have any horror stories or durability assessments? I know the metal buildings that don't have the OSB sheathing under the siding seem to last ok so with the sheathing under it I would think it would be hat much tougher. Any thoughts?

Thanks guys...I have to make up my mind soon. I gotta get this damn thing done!

Max

 

[Allenw]

Would you be installing them directly onto the wood studs?

Are you concerned about the metal panels flexing at all?

Would you be installing furring strips at all?

I'm looking at doing the same think at my shop with 10' tall walls

You can run it horizontal straight on the wood studs, the tin will act as your sheeting.

 

[64coupedeluxe]

I'm not sure your idea of turning the metal inside out would look any good. I have only ever seen the metal siding with different profiles run horizontally on those cheap looking converted carport/garages.

I thought you were talking about the corrugations that are all equal size, like the photo I posted, and that you can also see on houzz.

 

[Maxtork]

I saw the same thing done on an interior ceiling of the building supply house where I bought my shingles. It actually looked really nice. Of course on the outside might be a different story. I have to get my hands on a piece and see how it looks inside out.

You are correct I was originally looking at the wavy corrugated stuff and I can still go that way. I'm still trying to decide how to go about it all. My wife wants to go see the metal place and look at it first hand. Maybe she can help me figure out which way to go.

Max

 

[D45]

Finally found a local steel distributor that sells metal panels

They sell Central States Manufacturing Panels, in "R-Loc" and "M-Loc"

R-Loc: R-Loc | Metal Roofing & Siding | Central States Manufacturing
Panel Rib Height: 1 1/4″
Panel Coverage: 36″ wide
Panel Length: 26″ to 45′ in .5″ increments
Tensile Strength: 80,000 psi minimum
Substrate: Varies by option; Galvalume
Gauge: 26
Recommended Roof Slope:1/2:12 or greater roof slopes and ideal for low pitch commercial roofs

M-Loc: M-Loc | Metal Roofing & Siding | Central States Manufacturing
Panel Rib Height: 3/4″every 6 inches
Panel Coverage: 36″ wide
Panel Length: 26″ to 45′ in .5″ increments
Tensile Strength: 80,000 psi minimum
Substrate: Varies by option; Galvalume
Gauge: 26
Recommended Roof Slope: 1:12 pitch


Both are 26 gauge and both are the same price

I am leaning towards the M-Loc

 

[D45]

How sturdy or flimsy will 26 gauge be?

I was hoping to screw the metal panels directly to the studs

 

[shelbyz28]

Check out my shop; my goal was to keep it from looking too industrial and I thought it came out ok. Ribbed pole barn steel, wainscoting, overhang, "Dutch vee's" on the garage doors-link in signature

 

[Andybull]

Why not Hardy Plank it. IfIi would have built my shop near the house, I would not have built it out of metal. By the time you add specialty trim work, rocks, brick, etc. you will have spent more and it'll still look industrial.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=173227&referrerid=128542

 

[Kevin54]

I saw the same thing done on an interior ceiling of the building supply house where I bought my shingles. It actually looked really nice. Of course on the outside might be a different story. I have to get my hands on a piece and see how it looks inside out.

You are correct I was originally looking at the wavy corrugated stuff and I can still go that way. I'm still trying to decide how to go about it all. My wife wants to go see the metal place and look at it first hand. Maybe she can help me figure out which way to go.

Max

Trust me on this.......Use it on the inside. If you use it on the outside, it's going to look like a square Quonset Hut. This is on the inside

If you put corrugated metal like that on the outside, it's going to look like the start of some of the buildings you see around scrap yards. For a roof it may be fine, but for an outside wall......No!!!!

 

[Maxtork]

Check out my shop; my goal was to keep it from looking too industrial and I thought it came out ok. Ribbed pole barn steel, wainscoting, overhang, "Dutch vee's" on the garage doors-link in signature

That looks good. Pretty much what I am going for with the two tone. I was going to use the galvalume color on the bottom and the light blue on the top. I was going to use a bigger J channel between the two colors in white so it looks like 1x4 trim boards.

 

[Maxtork]

Check out my shop; my goal was to keep it from looking too industrial and I thought it came out ok. Ribbed pole barn steel, wainscoting, overhang, "Dutch vee's" on the garage doors-link in signature

Trust me on this.......Use it on the inside. If you use it on the outside, it's going to look like a square Quonset Hut. This is on the inside

If you put corrugated metal like that on the outside, it's going to look like the start of some of the buildings you see around scrap yards. For a roof it may be fine, but for an outside wall......No!!!!

That is exactly what I was planning on for the inside as well as the outside in the original plan. Just on the lower portion so I dont think it would be too bad. Not like I'm going to cover the whole thing in galanized steel color.



I found this picture online. Not great but it will give you an idea what these panels look like inside out. To me it looks more like regular dutch lap vinyl siding. I was going to do this horizontally in galvanized silver color the the blue vertically the normal way out.

I went by the metal place again today and got some larger samples to check color. I figure if I get it and don't like the bottom part I can always paint it. If I don't like the look of the inside out horizontal I can always cut them down and do it vertically. I think the vertical stuff looks alot like the board and batten wood siding. I looked at doing that as well but it was alot more cost wise. I looked at hardi plank too and that would be great but it is WAAAAy more money. Even with all the trim pieces. I can do the whole exterior for about $700 bucks with the metal.

Thanks for all the opinions. I will figure it out one way or another. If I really dont like it when it is done I can find a reason to change it later.

Max

 

[Kevin54]

Max......before you jump to a decision, then later have to paint, or change the direction of the metal......go through the gallery or better yet, start here before the gallery. ShopNut made this up http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=151197 Search through and find something you like, instead of buying then having to change. Once you hang some tin on your building, you DO NOT want to have to paint it.

 

[Dentmanaustin]

Here's a pic of metal in my shop just finished this winter

 

[D45]

Well the r loc and m loc sheets are way too expensive and they take over a week to get in

I opted for rolling galvanized steel sheets cut to length of 102" each

24 gauge and in stock

15 sheets was $600!!!!!

I need 16 more sheets

I bought a 5 lb box of self tapping screws made just for panels...... another $22

The enclosed patio is also now insulated and paneled with wood siding

The metal panels wasn't what I wanted..... but it is in stock and they cut it to length of 102" tall for.me.....so no seams and gaps!!

Also, I will just overlap one ridge so again.... no seams or gaps

 

[Maxtork]

Well the decision was made and I picked up my siding today. My better half decided that to tone brown/tan was the best choice. I will just run it all vertically so nothing abnormal in that respect. I will be putting it up this weekend as long as the weather lasts.

I do have a question though. Where do you guys run your screws? in the valleys or through the ridges? My panels are 36" wide and they have 5 ribs and 4 flats. I was going to run two rows of screws through the wainscoting (which will be 36" tall) and run rows of screws about every three feet across the longer panels above it. I'm going to predrill all the panels so the screws line up when I'm done.

Any thoughts?

Max

 

[DOUGD]

Screws typically go in the valley next to a rib and into a horizontal purlin. Each panel will overlap by one rib and this will give you 36" of coverage from each panel. Three screws per row on each panel works well. Your first screw of your second panel will secure the last rib of your first panel due to the overlap. Hope that made sense.The trim and windows is where it gets tricky.

 

[Maxtork]

Thanks for that. It makes sense but my panels only overlap at the ridge and not a whole flat. So unless I screw through the overlapping ridge each screw will only go through one panel at a time. I'm ok with that as long as I put 3 screws across and have the outside screws at least close to the overlapping ridge. I have OSB sheathing to screw into and the screws are pretty long so going through the flat is going to leave a good bit hanging through the inside of the wall but thats ok as that will get covered eventually too. So is a row of three screws every 36" or so good enough? I think the usual purlin spacing for roofs or metal buildings is about 24" but if I have sheathing underneath I thought I could get away with a bit further apart.

Thanks
Max

 

[DOUGD]

My building is U-panel,appears to be the same basic pattern as the M loc panels mentioned earlier. It has 10ft walls and has three rows of screws located top,middle and bottom,screws are adjacent to the edge of every other rib,nine screws total on each panel.

 

[shelbyz28]

Your spacing sounds reasonable; my walls are about 24" between rows of screws.
Stack your steel, measure carefully and pre-drill for your screws. It'll keep the rows straight. I made a "story pole" to make it easier to drill multiple stacks the same.

 

[wnstwolf]

I have a lot of metal and I am ok with final look. My last barn (30x40) was t-111 and after loads and loads of stain to make sure I did not have a spotted cow look I was not happy.

Break up your colors to match the home