corrugated steel for garage ceiling

[garageismydoghouse]

Does anyone have experience using corrugated steel siding for garage ceiling? Any concerns or advice on how to install it would be appreciated. Planning on insulating ceiling with batts first then steel. Is condensation an issue in colder climates?

 

[LB-1911]

One example -

For the ceiling I considered drywall, but for many reasons ... quick, one-step & it's done, no sanding, no painting, ... no muss, no fuss, I decided to go with steel panels. Plus, I like the clean, sharp appearance of the steel.

I installed regular faced insulation in the ceiling as you can see in some of the photos. Don't know if the vapor barrier is required or not, but using the staple flanges on the insulation bats makes the installation easier.



The contractor that built the garage come back and do the ceiling installation. It took 3 guys two days to install the 10'-6" long J-channels and the 44, 14' x 3' steel panels. They pre-drilled all the panels before lifting them up ... these panels are not light and are awkward to handle. They must be aligned much more carefully than installing drywall panels.





I had the J-channel set out from the wall 1/2 in. to allow future drywall on the walls to slip up behind the vertical leg of the J-channel to ease future finishing of the top edge of the drywall.



Things to be aware of if you are considering a steel ceiling ... check with your local inspector before selecting steel vs. drywall for the ceiling. The steel has a Class A fire spread rating, BUT it does not have a fire retardant rating. There may be concerns if you want to finish a room on second floor of your garage for habitation. Also, the electrical work for all of the ceiling mounted fixtures is a little more difficult (you want to avoid the big ridges on the panels) and you have to be careful of the sharp metal edges cutting the wiring so cutting and trimming holes for boxes takes time.









So far, I'm very pleased with the results!

This garage is getting close to being usable! Lights and ceiling fans are next.

 

[LB-1911]

Another -

Saturday two friends came over and we got the remainder of the corrugated tin installed. I need to finish putting in all of the fasteners and I've got some wiring to complete in the back corner but basically it's all up.
BTW, there is trim to cover the edges of the metal to finish it.
I really like it.
Thanks for looking,
Mike

 

[garageismydoghouse]

Wow, thanks LB-1911. That's impressive and very helpful.

 

[TonkaJoe]

Did this to my shop, also added corrugated steel wainscoting.

My build:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=306497

 

[NUTTSGT]

Are you wanting ribbed or corrugated panels ?

 

[garageismydoghouse]

would corrugated be easier to fasten?

 

[rockinacummins]

I have well used corrugated steel for the walls and ceiling of my tool room. I say well used because I took it all off of an old barn we have that is falling down. I liked the sheet iron because it had rusty patches and gives it an old rustic look. I just screwed one side on with sheet metal screws (to the 3" purlins), stuck the batt insulation in there, then covered the other side with more sheet iron. Works great, looks cool, keeps my tool room at whatever temperature I choose. So far I havent had any condensation at all - not even on the door which is also sheet iron but isn't insulated.

You can see the wall in this picture, two walls are fully covered and two are half steel half plywood as seen on the left. The ceiling is just the corrugated steel.

 

[NUTTSGT]

would corrugated be easier to fasten?

Corrugated metal, at least the older stuff should be thicker than ribbed panels.I would guess that would require pre-drilling. The ribbed panels don't need to be pre-drilled but they can be.

Hopefully, one of the corrugated metal users, I think Kevin used it on his walls, can chime in on the metal thickness and pre-drilling.

 

[garageismydoghouse]

I think the painted ribbed panel is more to my liking. The many pictures helped me understand the difference between the two, thanks guys.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Looking at your location, I'd guess there should be a Menard's fairly close to you. Stop in and go to the Project/Contractor area. They should be able to help answer your questions too.

 

[ExxWhy]

How many screws do those ribbed panels need for a ceiling? Every 2,4, or 6 ft?

 

[NUTTSGT]

How many screws do those ribbed panels need for a ceiling? Every 2,4, or 6 ft?

Generally screws are placed every 2' going long ways* down the rib and one on the right side of every rib going across the panel.

*Every 2' if your trusses are 24" OC. Granted if your trusses are 48" (on a pole bldg) they will be centered on the trusses and every 4'.

 

[glider]

Generally screws are placed every 2' going long ways* down the rib and one on the right side of every rib going across the panel.

*Every 2' if your trusses are 24" OC. Granted if your trusses are 48" (on a pole bldg) they will be centered on the trusses and every 4'.

I have been researching a metal ceiling in my barn. My trusses are 24" oc. Would putting the screws 48" oc be a possibility? That would cut down on a bunch.

 

[TonkaJoe]

I have been researching a metal ceiling in my barn. My trusses are 24" oc. Would putting the screws 48" oc be a possibility? That would cut down on a bunch.

You'll need to figure out which way your ribs of steel will be running according to your truss layout also.. that will mean the difference between having to strap the entire ceiling first or not.

It will also make a difference in the number and length of screws required as you may or may not be drilling into strapping as often.. you may be using more stitch screws instead. Just something to keep in mind!.. NUTTSGT has you on the right track also.

 

[xtremek]

I'm in the process of "procuring" the roofing for the ceiling of my barn. Being tight on money, I'm pulling the roofing off of a couple of collapsing sheds. So this is something I'll be watching, and I'll post pics when I get started.

 

[xtremek]

Ps. I'm only doing the ceiling. I'm afraid the noise reflection will be to much to do the walls.

 

[GAR64]

Just had my ceiling done this week. They used 15' panels which were awkward. I did the sheetrock on walls first so they could just put the j channel right on the wall. Everything the other post said about electrical etc. is correct. Also, keep in mind that pre drilling can be tricky if the truss's are not perfectly aligned (mine were not). Overall, I think the metal looks good on the ceiling.

 

[alfagarage]

I had to do mine in 2 sections because I could not transport and hang a 31' sheet by myself.

For my purposes it worked out great.

As for the wiring, I used conduit over top of the finishing panels throughout my shop. I wanted an industrial feel.

The 2" conduit is for my welder. I used it to somewhat hide my seams where the 2 panels met.

I plan on finishing up the painting in the spring. Had to wait and see if it was still going to be mine after the divorce (it is mine now!)

 

[reader2580]

I want to do the ribbed panels for the ceiling in my basement. My biggest issue is going to be how to box around duct work. I will use 8 foot long panels because they are cheap and I can move them around easier in the basement.

 

[glider]

Ordered my 29ga rib panels today. It is a 30x40x14 with trusses 24"oc. Will be done in 3 sections. The math works out on the seams to secure 48"oc. Will you see sag? Just thought I would ask before I do a test piece. Also any issues with securing on all the humps?

 

[NUTTSGT]

Ordered my 29ga rib panels today. It is a 30x40x14 with trusses 24"oc. Will be done in 3 sections. The math works out on the seams to secure 48"oc. Will you see sag? Just thought I would ask before I do a test piece. Also any issues with securing on all the humps?

Don't put your screws on the top of the rib.

 

[ExxWhy]

I got mine done last week. Panels were just under 22' long, used a drywall lift and rolling scaffolding. Went up pretty easy all in all. I put the screws into every other truss (24OC) and it seems to be fine, no sagging.

 

[glider]

Don't put your screws on the top of the rib.

Is this a preference or could I hear your reasoning? I was thinking if I pre drilled, that would help if I was off some.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Is this a preference or could I hear your reasoning? I was thinking if I pre drilled, that would help if I was off some.

It's what I was taught by more experienced guys that have done it plenty. More than once, I have called myself a hack with a hammer, so I'm no professional.


This is what Fabral says.

http://www.fabral.com/faq/#q2a

WHERE DO I PLACE SCREWS FOR EXPOSED FASTENER APPLICATIONS?

A properly installed screw will be down in the flat of the panel. At this location the metal panel has solid wood right below the metal panel and good compression on the washer can be obtained. With thermal movement in the panel, the screw will be put into shear, not bending, and the hole thru the metal panel will slightly elongate. As long as this slot does not exceed the diameter of the washer, the hole will remain sealed. This is why we limit the panel length for aluminum exposed fastened panels to 16’ and limit steel exposed fastened panels to about 40’. Additionally, the diaphragm shear capacity and shear stiffness is based on the screws being installed in the flat of the panel. If screws are installed in the top of the rib, the diaphragm would be much more flexible and would not be as strong.

HOW DO I ATTACH METAL PANELS?

You may use either screws or nails—both color matched to the color of your roof. Screw fasteners are designed to go into the flat part of the panel. Nails MUST GO in the high rib of the panel. Fasteners are typically spaced 24″ o/c. The FabrOseal is the best available option as a nail and also a viable option to fasten the panel if screws are not the method to be used by the installer.

 

[Highbeam]

Don't screw through the rib. Don't predrill. Use regular pole barn metal screws the same color as the metal with washers. Those screws don't require predrill.

My 30x60 has white metal ceiling and I did it in three lengths that added to 30' including the overlap. Yes, overlap the ends. Screw beside every rib at every truss. Screws are cheap and you don't want this sagging. Pull a string and use it to install the screws so they are all straight. It looks good and helps you avoid missing the truss. If you miss the truss now you have a stupid hole that reminds you of the mistake forever. This ain't sheetrock.

I used a drywall lift and those big arrow welding magnets to keep the sheet on the lift. You don't want a sheet sliding off and running across your throat.

When you put the lights up and need to put wires through the metal. Buy a metal cutting hole saw the same size as an electrical grommet used for panels. Worked slick to protect the wiring from those sharp holes.

I had one metal spiral spin off and get stuck in my eyeball. Had to have the eye doctor remove it. I put like 1200 screws into that ceiling and only one injury. Oh and I used a ladder but scaffolding would have been better at 14 feet high. Lots of climbing.

 

[Jlbc212]

I used ribbed panels on my garage ceiling. The exterior of the garage is 28 ft deep, and approx. 27 ft inside. I ordered panels 9ft 2 inches long and placed strapping perpendicular to the roof trusses, spacing the strapping approx. 3 ft on center. The metal panels came strapped together in a bundle. I pre drilled holes through the entire bundle. I also rented a drywall lift to place the panels and I stood on a step ladder to screw the panels to the ceiling. Other than having to move the ladder and climb up and down, the job was easy to do alone.