Cost for rewiring.......
- Thread starter pconley
- Start date
03ranger
Well-known member
Before a ballpark figure can be given, we need to know the scope of the job involved.
- Size of box and type and number of breakers in current box. Size of box and number of breakers and type of breakers to be installed to meet current code of the AHJ.
- Where is the breaker box located; inside, outside basement and type of access.
- Quality of materials; big box to high quality residential
- Cost of electrical permit
I am just the mechanical guy, but from what my sparkie guys tell me the other huge variable is what of existing will not fit current code. When the guy (or gal) pulls the permit, everything they touch has to be to code - and that has changed over time
Dagny
Well-known member
200 amp 2000.
Not always, in Ontario as long as you don’t change wiring from the panel or add circuits, you install the new panel without code updates. You don’t need to install afcis
danski0224
Well-known member
Anywhere from $5 to $50k.
gpiggaz
Well-known member
I asked for a few quotes to replace the main panel at my house in AZ, Getting a quote at all was difficult. but I got one for $2500 but he wasn't bidding the whole job after looking at the quote The 2nd one I got was for for $3500- This is a direct replacement no upgrades to the service. I will be without power for about 8 hours while they do the work. The quote included the new panel, all new breakers, the permit and the labor to do the work- Panels in AZ are external to the house.
Edit to add- it's a 1987 "Bryant/Westinghouse " panel, 225Amp Main breaker, 42 1" spaces. Being replaced with a 225Amp Eaton BR4242B225R (at least that is what was quoted)
Edit to add- it's a 1987 "Bryant/Westinghouse " panel, 225Amp Main breaker, 42 1" spaces. Being replaced with a 225Amp Eaton BR4242B225R (at least that is what was quoted)
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BigGarage
Well-known member
Too many variables as others have noted but here's what I did in July of '19. I replaced the pushamatic breaker panel with a modern panel. Along with a whole house surge suppressor ($300 extra) it was just over $1800.
acer66
Well-known member
OP seems to be in the US.
danski0224
Well-known member
Where I live, it is entirely dependent on which version of the NEC that the town is following.
I had to change the meter socket because the town require a huge wire size for a 200A panel.
Due to shared neutrals (the electricians called them networks), arc fault breakers would require a complete rewire.
IIRC, my location is following the 2017 NEC, which does not require a disconnect at the meter socket.
finn
Well-known member
Just for reference, I had the 8’ fluorescents in my 16’ shop ceiling replaced with 8’ leds in September.
The electrician used $145/hr x 2 guys, and four hours per man.
He was spot on for the time, considering setup and disposal.
The electrician used $145/hr x 2 guys, and four hours per man.
He was spot on for the time, considering setup and disposal.
nh_yota
Well-known member
Usually around $2k but varies widely depending on location, requirements and complexity.
I had a rough quote in CO for a new eaton box with a greater number of breaker slots, all new eaton breakers, slip joint, a jump from 150A to 200A, a surge protector, and resetting/remounting the smart meter box for somewhere around $9k. That included the permits.
finn
Well-known member
On the other hand, I had a new 200 amp panel installed at a house we were renovating. Used a licensed electrician who did side jobs. He charged $60. Gave me a list of materials which I bought and installed. He arranged to meet with the inspector, and was present when the power company reinserted the meter and the inspector did the sign off.
This was about eight or nine years ago.
This was about eight or nine years ago.
Fair enough, that’s a good point about shared neutrals. Other than split receptacles in kitchens I don’t think we do much shared neutrals in residential settings up here.
You probably only had to upgrade the meter size because you upsized your panel right?
danski0224
Well-known member
It was due to the city requirements for conductor sizing between the meter and the main breaker.
The wire wouldn't fit.
mrbill55
Well-known member
What is the size of the current box? Where is it mounted? What is it mounted too? Are you planning to add circuits? How is the current box wired ? Do you have aluminum or other outdated wiring? Will you be adding a whole house surge protector at the same time? Each answer will cause your price to rise.
As for a response to your basic question: A typical box will be in the $1,800-$3,500 and up range.
Bill S.
markdtn
Well-known member
I apologize for not being more thorough. This is in a condominium I own. It has a Federal Pacific electric circuit in it now. I recently found out that this electrical box with aluminum wiring causes up to 3,000 fires a year in the United States and Canada. So I am considering changing it out. It is not given me any problems in the past 8 years and it more than likely has been in the condo for 50 years. I just had a four point inspection from the state of Florida who passed the entire condo and the Electric System with flying colors. So I am just wondering a ballpark figure on how much it would cost to put in a new panel with about 14 circuit breakers and redo the wiring. The box is in the kitchen.
I have put outlets and new covers on the outlets before and from what I have noticed it has copper wiring in the rest of the condominium. But I I'm certain that the electric box, has aluminum wiring in it somehow. So I am just wondering what a ballpark figure would be to correct this situation. It says on the internet $1,500-3500. I have no idea how much amperage panel it will need. Probably 100 amp service. It should not need that big of a panel because it is only a small condominium. Thanks for your replies gentlemen. Respect your opinions.
I have put outlets and new covers on the outlets before and from what I have noticed it has copper wiring in the rest of the condominium. But I I'm certain that the electric box, has aluminum wiring in it somehow. So I am just wondering what a ballpark figure would be to correct this situation. It says on the internet $1,500-3500. I have no idea how much amperage panel it will need. Probably 100 amp service. It should not need that big of a panel because it is only a small condominium. Thanks for your replies gentlemen. Respect your opinions.
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danski0224
Well-known member
You need to get rid of that ****. They do not have a UL certification on the breakers, and the issue has been known since the early 1980's.
Took less than 30 seconds to Google it, although I have heard of the issue before and know someone that had one of those panels.
Replacement of your condo after it burns to the ground will cost more than replacing the panel.
homeinspectioninsider.com
Took less than 30 seconds to Google it, although I have heard of the issue before and know someone that had one of those panels.
Replacement of your condo after it burns to the ground will cost more than replacing the panel.
2024 Federal Pacific Breaker Panel Recall: You Should Know
Stay informed about the critical issue of the Federal Pacific breaker panel recall. Ensure your home's safety with our comprehensive guide.
homeinspectioninsider.com
danski0224
Well-known member
Replacing the breaker box is way less involved than actually rewiring the building.
You need to get quotes from local contractors and compare scope of work and pricing.
I just paid $3,600 to have my panel and meter socket replaced (legit, with a permit), and the ground brought up to current code. That is meaningless info for your scope of work and location.
You need to get quotes from local contractors and compare scope of work and pricing.
I just paid $3,600 to have my panel and meter socket replaced (legit, with a permit), and the ground brought up to current code. That is meaningless info for your scope of work and location.
mrbill55
Well-known member
That is pretty much it, my sound advice, ask your friends who they have used that they are happy with and call them ASAP (not one that advertises on TV). Have them come out and physically look at the panel and your wiring. Do not lead them on, let them make a determination as to what is required. Also, forget about your "condo inspection", they are not a true home inspection, and not worth the paper they are printed on.
Bill S.
75gmck25
Well-known member
Dated info - In 2013 I had my old 150 amp Square D split-bus panel upgraded to a new Square D QO 200 amp 30/40 panel for about $2000. Everything was permitted and performed by a licensed electrician.
I only had about seven 120 volt breakers and two 240 volt breakers at that time, and IIRC, some of the old QO breakers could be used in the new panel. That simplified the job quite a bit, so I it only took one guy about 3-4 hours.
Important tip - bigger panel will not cost much more, and works out much better in the long run. After several house renovations my 30/40 space panel now has about 38 spaces in use, including 240 volt breakers for the garage sub-panel, A/C, kitchen range, and EV charger. If my dryer and water heater were not gas I would already need a sub-panel in the house.
I only had about seven 120 volt breakers and two 240 volt breakers at that time, and IIRC, some of the old QO breakers could be used in the new panel. That simplified the job quite a bit, so I it only took one guy about 3-4 hours.
Important tip - bigger panel will not cost much more, and works out much better in the long run. After several house renovations my 30/40 space panel now has about 38 spaces in use, including 240 volt breakers for the garage sub-panel, A/C, kitchen range, and EV charger. If my dryer and water heater were not gas I would already need a sub-panel in the house.
wyliesdiesels
Well-known member
This varies wildly by AHJ
wyliesdiesels
Well-known member
What ground are you referring to?
wyliesdiesels
Well-known member
Can you tell us which wiring is AL? The feeder to the panel or the branch circuit wiring?
sparky 1971
Well-known member
The only way to see what the cost is going to be is to have the contractor from the area give a quote.
One are I work in is covered by the state. Change the panel and be done for $1.5-2K, but if it's being upgraded, for example from a 100 to 200 amp service, the entire service has to be brought up the the current code which is 2020 for me and that will put it about $4,000. Another place wants some GFCI's installed in the kitchen and bathroom if they don't already have them, add $750-1000. Another wants the entire house brought up to what they call an update, I will add an attachment below with their requirements.. Those run anywhere from $8-15K. Still another wants the same update, but add in interconnected smoke detectors (wireless are ok) and a switch at the top and bottom of the stairs (again, wireless is ok), those are more money yet.
One are I work in is covered by the state. Change the panel and be done for $1.5-2K, but if it's being upgraded, for example from a 100 to 200 amp service, the entire service has to be brought up the the current code which is 2020 for me and that will put it about $4,000. Another place wants some GFCI's installed in the kitchen and bathroom if they don't already have them, add $750-1000. Another wants the entire house brought up to what they call an update, I will add an attachment below with their requirements.. Those run anywhere from $8-15K. Still another wants the same update, but add in interconnected smoke detectors (wireless are ok) and a switch at the top and bottom of the stairs (again, wireless is ok), those are more money yet.
danski0224
Well-known member
Ground from the panel to the water meter. Conductor size was too small.
Outside grounding also, requires 2 grounding rods driven into the ground.
Thanks. I should have thought of that.
wyliesdiesels
Well-known member
so water line bond and GEC to rods.
danski0224
Well-known member
Yes.
Thank you, gentlemen. There is an electrician coming tomorrow to give a quote. I believe that the wiring around the condo is copper. I have had the covers off of almost all of the outlets and it looks like they all have copper wiring. But there is definitely aluminum inside the panel. The box was there when I bought the condo eight years ago and it has never given me any trouble. But I have it for sale now and insurance companies are refusing to give people insurance when they find out about the panel. It appears that the were about 100 million of them made between 1950 and 1980. The company falsified the data to get them into production. It is estimated that there are still 25 million of these panels still being used in homes and businesses in the US and Canada. They cause 2,000-3,000 fires every year. The funny thing about it is that I had my condo inspected by a highly reputable company in Florida and the condo passed the four-point inspection with flying colors. But when insurance companies see the pictures of the box and the aluminum wiring, they refuse to give out insurance................. The size of the condo is only 680 sq. feet.................... I called the inspection company Friday, and they gave me the number of insurance companies who will give out insurance even if you have that panel. So, if this buyer gets insurance with someone before I have the new panel in, and he still wants to buy the condo with a new panel, there is a question of who pays for this new panel? Does the buyer want to pay for it? If he gets insurance should I say the heck with it if he says he doesn't want it installed? Or better yet, if he says to go ahead and put it in and agrees to pay for it, something could come up to void the contract and he could get out of it and I would be stuck with the bill. We will have to wait and see all of the options.............Another thing- the insurance company and the real estate agent are the same ones who I bought the condo from eight years ago. I told the agent that they should be paying for the panel. She refused. One question: is it possible that only the box has aluminum wiring and the rest of the condo has copper wiring throughout? I believe it does. Thanks for all of the opinions gentlemen.
danski0224
Well-known member
That's the beauty of home inspections.
The mantra is "don't break the deal", so if a buyer uses an inspector referred by a real estate agent... there you go.
You would have to take them to court. Good luck with that.
If you mean from the meter to the box (the line side of the main breaker), yes that is possible.
Splicing a bunch of aluminum wires from the breakers to copper wire to the devices, within the panel? That would be odd, and possibly not allowed. It is not normal for a breaker panel to be used as a "junction box", although I believe that it is technically allowed to do that.
My house has aluminum to the meter.
It would not be unusual to see aluminum from the meter to the panel, depending on location. It really depends on what is allowed locally. Aluminum wire size is usually 1 size larger than copper, so that also matters, as the terminal lugs may not be large enough.
Whether or not a main panel is rated for aluminum wire is specified by the manufacturer.
It is possible that your insurance issues are related to the panel box being a fire hazard- with or without aluminum wire.
IF you do have aluminum wire, then the panel and breakers have to be rated for it.
There is nothing inherently wrong with aluminum wire, but it must be installed properly. That is the issue.
Ultimately, the work needs to be done with a permit and by a licensed electrician, to local code standards in place at the time of the work being done.
Cruzan80
Well-known member
Also, consider giving the buyer a credit to have it done. This way, you won't be responsible for a bill if it falls thru.
sparky 1971
Well-known member
It's very possible that it is mostly wired with copper, but aluminum was used for the service entrance and maybe SE or SER cable for the larger 240 volt appliances. It's still done today by a lot of companies that specialize in "bungalow busting" or want to squeeze every cent of profit out of a job. Outside of the service entrance or a feeder, I've never used aluminum wire, but that's just me and I only wire a new house about every four or five years, just to remind myself why I don't wire new houses.