Countertop desk/ worktop

[Splinter]

was thinking about making a desk/worktop out of a section or two of countertop.... the catch being that it is bracketed to finished wall studs instead of built on a base. Nothing heavy going on it, maybe a computer monitor, some DIY books, car manuals, etc.

anyone else do this? How did it work out?

 

[ooman]

Worked for me, although I fabbed a counter top. Bought the steel brackets at Lowes, about $8 each, they came in white or black. I the wall legs are just under 14" in length, and the table arms are about 20". I think they're rated at about 400lbs per arm.

I lag bolted them into the studs, at 32" intervals, it's a very solid support system. There were 3 holes predrilled in each arm & leg.

It can easily support a computer and monitor, and a lot more. I have a 5" vise on one corner, and the other day was bending a good size metal plate with it. Though I think that if I were to do serious pounding that I'd slip a temporary 2x4 support in that corner.

Leaves the floor clean and easy to get at.

 

[Splinter]

awesome.

what size lag bolts did you use?

 

[ooman]

I think they were 3/8" x 3" into the wall studs, can't remember the top ones.

 

[Kevin54]

Why not pick up a couple of overhead cabinets / cupboards from one of the box stores, then mount the countertop to those. They don't even have to be very tall, but would carry the load and it would give you a couple of doors to hide stuff behind. Just a thought. And everything would still be away from the floor

 

[Bigger Hammer]

I just finished out all the counter tops/desktops in our new office the same way you are planning. Due to a severe lack of planning on the office staffs' part, there was not a single piece of blocking installed in the steel stud framing. We just used coarse thread drywall/wood screws and all seems to be holding up fine so far. That is in an office environment so it will see less abuse than a garage/workshop. Just make sure the brackets have a triangulated support on them and you should be fine.

 

[Splinter]

Hammer, the brackets that I saw at Lowes I think are the same ones that ooman described, 20" side, fairly thick with a cross brace, 1-1/8" wide back, looks nice and sturdy.

edit: I think it was this one or similar:

20" x 13" x 1-1/8" supports 1,000 lbs. per pair Accommodates a shelf depth of 26"

Kevin, I am toying with the idea of putting a base cabinet at each end, and then bolting a 1x or 2x strip along the walls in between for the top to sit on in between.

Third option is a bracket on the ends with the strip in between.

 

[boiler7904]

Hammer, the brackets that I saw at Lowes I think are the same ones that ooman described, 20" side, fairly thick with a cross brace, 1-1/8" wide back, looks nice and sturdy.

edit: I think it was this one or similar:

20" x 13" x 1-1/8" supports 1,000 lbs. per pair Accommodates a shelf depth of 26"

Kevin, I am toying with the idea of putting a base cabinet at each end, and then bolting a 1x or 2x strip along the walls in between for the top to sit on in between.

Third option is a bracket on the ends with the strip in between.

I'd go for the cabinet idea with a bracket in the middle of the open span to help support the countertop. It's always better to overbuild this type of thing than save a couple of bucks only to have it fall off the wall when you have something expensive like a computer on it. Garages and offices always need extra storage space that cabinets provide.

 

[kbs2244]

The desk I am setting at right now is made up of salvaged kitichen cabinets.
Base units on my left, a knee hole into the corner of the room, and the "return" on my right made up of the uppers.
The uppers are 12 inches deep compared to 24 for the lowers and 30 high compared to 34 for the lowers. So I had to build a 2x4 base for them to match.
I built a custom top, but if you used a standard top, and kept them tight to the wall, you would have a 12 inch overhang along the front edge.
That would work well for a "toe kick" and you would have some out of sight storage room.