Couple questions installing 2 post lift

[Kyle T]

So after a good amount of researching I bought a Atlas BP8000 from Greg Smith Equipment.

Finally have started to install it. For the most part I know what I'm doing and everything seems to be going together good.

We got all the holes drilled and the anchors in. The concrete exceeds all the requirements for the lift. In the instructions it says to tap the 5 1/2" anchors in so only 2" protrudes from the surface. We followed this for all. Upon torquing the anchors they pulled up 1/4-1/2" until they got tight. I was worried at first but I'm pretty sure this is from the collar piece sliding down the anchor and finally grabbing at the wedge. They all definitely stopped and don't seem to pull up anymore. I'm just wondering if this is okay?

As you can see the two in the middle stick up about 2.5" and the two on the ends about 2.25"

Also the floor isn't perfectly level, there is a slight pitch for the floor drain. Also the guy at greg smith told me to tip the columns outward slightly so they are straight when the lift is loaded. The lift came with various shims that we used to level the columns. I'm just wondering if this is too much and if I should put something in gap between the column and concrete where it has been shimmed.

It looks more drastic in the photo but its been shimmed up less than 1/4".

And here's a picture of the lift

Just looking for opinions on what I've said. Any other comments or tips are also appreciated.

 

[mobilus]

Kyle, did you torque the anchor bolts to the specified torque value? I torqued mine to around 75 ft lbs, as called for in the paper instructions that came with it. After a dozen lifts, I decided to retorque, and went to the online installation manual, which called for 150 ft lbs. Some of the nuts on the anchor bolts were very loose, but I haven't seen the loosening since.

I don't see any problem with the shims. I used them, and a buddy of mine had to use them as well. I'd make sure that they are plumb w/o a load. The footprint is big enough to offset the inward pull, in my opinion. If the salesman thinks the columns are bending in, and you have to offset it with extra shims to ensure plumb columns, that's not saying a lot for the product.

 

[Kyle T]

Yes, the anchors have been torqued to 80ft lbs as the instructions call for. I do plan on checking/re torquing them once everything settles in and have used the lift a couple times.

He just said to tip them outward very slightly, helps with heavier cars/truck and the lift not binding.

 

[jnkpile]

If you've followed the instructions correctly then you should have nothing to worry about. The instructions should tell you a maximum shim measurement allowed. 1/4" seems acceptable, but their should be a specified maximum.

 

[gungatim]

those pictures look lke the uprights are not even close to plumb. on my lift (NOT the same model as yours-so may not apply), I had to re-shim several times as even slightly off caused it to bind. obviously follow the instructions with your specific lift, but just thought I'd mention that...it's a real pain to get it down with a load (even a small one) when it binds...had to use 2 floor jacks with 4x4's and disconnect the hydraulics and make a huge mess...lesson learned on my part, hope you don't need to do the same...

 

[zkdiesel]

Looks sketchy. All lifts I've I've used were installing perfectly level

 

[broncorick]

Just had a lift installed by experienced installer and bolt position looks the same as yours. I got the Atlas 10,000# lift. So much better than crawling on ground!

 

[Will S.]

We just installed a 2 post, 9000# Eagle lift a few days ago. Specs call for posts to be plumb, not canted out. 5 wedge anchors, 3/4" dia in each post, torgued to 110 ft #. Specs say if the top on any anchor exceeds 2.25" above floor grade, then the anchor is not providing proper strength, and should be replaced. We had 2 that exceeded that, and would not hold torque, so we are replacing them with B7 all-thread set in A7 epoxy, after enlarging those holes to 7/8".

Otherwise, the lift installation was perfect. Had we known about B7 all-thread in the beginning, we would not have used the supplied wedge anchors, as the A7/B7 system provides more than 3 times the strength of a wedge anchor.

 

[Kyle T]

Looks sketchy. All lifts I've I've used were installing perfectly level

The posts weren't shimmed in the picture of the whole lift, that's why they looks like that.

those pictures look lke the uprights are not even close to plumb. on my lift (NOT the same model as yours-so may not apply), I had to re-shim several times as even slightly off caused it to bind. obviously follow the instructions with your specific lift, but just thought I'd mention that...it's a real pain to get it down with a load (even a small one) when it binds...had to use 2 floor jacks with 4x4's and disconnect the hydraulics and make a huge mess...lesson learned on my part, hope you don't need to do the same...

The picture was taken before leveling the posts. Good point, I'll keep researching.

Just had a lift installed by experienced installer and bolt position looks the same as yours. I got the Atlas 10,000# lift. So much better than crawling on ground!

Good to know!

We just installed a 2 post, 9000# Eagle lift a few days ago. Specs call for posts to be plumb, not canted out. 5 wedge anchors, 3/4" dia in each post, torgued to 110 ft #. Specs say if the top on any anchor exceeds 2.25" above floor grade, then the anchor is not providing proper strength, and should be replaced. We had 2 that exceeded that, and would not hold torque, so we are replacing them with B7 all-thread set in A7 epoxy, after enlarging those holes to 7/8".

Otherwise, the lift installation was perfect. Had we known about B7 all-thread in the beginning, we would not have used the supplied wedge anchors, as the A7/B7 system provides more than 3 times the strength of a wedge anchor.

They all seem to hold torque, just that the took about 1/4" to grab. I wonder if it would be ok to tap them down a little more and then retorque them? I will this damage the anchor?

 

[Kyle T]

Took out one shim and got the posts closer to plum. Also tapped the anchors in a little more and torqued everything down completely.

 

[gungatim]

Looks better...

Not an expert on anchor bolts, but I do know mine slipped a little before tightening as well. the split collar on the bottom is tapered and has to bite into the concrete as the bolt pulls up and expands it. I don't know how much mine pulled up as I didn't bother measuring, just remembe they did pull up a little before they "caught" and snugged down. maybe the guys that use epoxy on them don't have that problem, either way, I didn't consider it a big deal as my concrete was plenty thick and I bought longer bolts than what was spec'd since my lift was used and didn't come with the original hardware...

good luck with the lift and stay safe.

 

[killahog]

The posts look alot better in that picture . I have heard it said big brother is always watching, in your shop it's actually true.

Some interesting informstion here http://www.itwredhead.com/pdfs/submittals/AAS-submittal.pdf

 

[mobilus]

It took me a few seconds , but now I understand...Big Brother. Good one, kilahog!

 

[Kyle T]

Finally was able to get the circuit figured out and get everything wired up. Got everything adjusted and was able to use it.

Still need to figure out how to get the safety locks adjusted right. They don't automatically engage and the release is off also.

 

[CNGsaves]

How many HEATERS are there in that shop ?? I see what looks like one or two forced air with flex duct pipes. Plus, there are two hanging heaters.

That forced air is not "sharing air" and also heating a living space above . . right??

P.S. I too see photo-bomb onlooker in corner "filiming" with I-phone !

 

[CamarosRus]

I have a ROTARY 2 post asymetric 9000# lift (simliar to the newer 10K).

Installed on concrete that is 4" or less. Some of my wedge anchor bolts torqued
up to 125#. Some pulled up too high and only torque to maybe 100#

ANYWAY ................I looked on the REDHEAD web site and see the A7 epoxy
but (so far) didnt find the B7 studs (??).

Hopefully I can drive my bad wedge anchors down thru the concrete into soil below

Do I absolutely need to drill out my base metal plate to 7/8" and them the concrete
to 7/8" also.

I already used an epoxy with a couple of the wedge anchors, but they still pulled up

Ive been using my ROTARY 9000# two post with relatively light foreign cars , but
would like to lift my 7000# DODGE Ram Cummins Diesel ???

Thanks for any help ??????????

Chuck

 

[Kyle T]

How many HEATERS are there in that shop ?? I see what looks like one or two forced air with flex duct pipes. Plus, there are two hanging heaters.

That forced air is not "sharing air" and also heating a living space above . . right??

P.S. I too see photo-bomb onlooker in corner "filiming" with I-phone !

Yea 2 main hanging heaters for the garage and then a larger furnace with the ducting for upstairs.

Haha and he's holding a refreshment!

 

[Rossco]

Nice lift. I have a local'ish dealer for them and would buy If it could be moved.

I wouldn't judge plumb / level / straightness from a picture.