Covered Patio Outlets

[Ss95003]

I am having an Outdoor Kitchen/ covered patio built.
I have provisions to pull a 12/2 line under the bar area to wire up some outlets that are in the back splash of the counter top.

I am pulling 12/2 UF wire to daisy chain 5 outlets to 1 circuit.
I know I need a GFCI outlet and covered outlets.
My questions:
1. Do I need the grey water tight boxes with the UF wire connector or can I just use a blue box? I bought a couple thicker deeper blue boxes but now I am questioning if I can use those.

2. When I go from box to box, can the wire just hang there, or go to ground, or do I need to secure it to the back wall? This is under the counter tops.

 

[Ss95003]

When I looked at an existing outlet on my patio it looks like a standard metal box with standard wire relief but It's hard to tell.
Which leads me to believe the blue boxes are fine.

 

[sberry]

Can they get wet? Rain on them? The wire needs to be secured out of the way so it cant get damaged or pulled.

 

[Ss95003]

I think its considered a damp location not wet. Since its under a covered patio. Good news is the builder already planned to run flex conduit from box to box and use the water tight boxes.
He forgot to put some on the chimney for my tv and has to do some demo now but I was trying to get answers so I knew what to do on the other outlets. since I don't want any more screw ups.

 

[alfredeneuman]

I think its considered a damp location not wet.

The Code doesn't recognize damp locations.
Only DRY and WET locations

 

[Falcon67]

When I looked at an existing outlet on my patio it looks like a standard metal box with standard wire relief but It's hard to tell.
Which leads me to believe the blue boxes are fine.

The GFCI on our patio doesn't even have a box LOL. The outlet is just screwed to the siding. Nice.

I used the gray boxes and conduit to make a run to our pool pump, but it is 100% exposed to the weather. I think the weather covers will be about all you can do for your cooking island items. They seal to the surface pretty well.

 

[rlitman]

The Code doesn't recognize damp locations.
Only DRY and WET locations

Try again:

https://www.lumens.com/how-tos-and-advice/ul-ratings.html

UL Listed (for Dry Locations)
Often noted just as "UL Listed." A dry location is an indoor area that is not normally subject to dampness. It may include a location subject to temporary dampness provided ventilation is adequate to prevent any accumulation of moisture.
Dry Locations include kitchens, living rooms, dining rooms, bedrooms, foyers, hallways and most areas in bathrooms.

UL Listed for Damp Locations
Only lighting fixtures and fans marked "Suitable for Damp Locations" or "Suitable for Wet Locations" can be used in damp locations. A damp location is an exterior or interior location that is normally or periodically subject to condensation of moisture in, on or adjacent to the electrical components of a lighting fixture or ceiling fan.
Indoor Damp Locations include indoor pool areas, utility rooms and over bathtubs or showers in bathrooms (without risk of direct water contact).

Using Damp Rated Products Outdoors
Outdoor damp rated fixtures can only be used in covered, fully protected locations that are not directly exposed to water, even during storms.
Outdoor Damp Locations include covered patios and covered porches that are fully protected from water, even during storms.

UL Listed for Wet Locations
Only lighting and fans marked "Suitable for Wet Locations" can be used in wet locations, both indoors and outdoors. A wet location is an interior or exterior location in which water or other liquids may drip, splash or flow on or against the electrical components of a lighting fixture or ceiling fan.
Outdoor Wet Locations include open-air decks and patios, uncovered porches, outdoor dining areas, exterior walls, gazebos, pergolas and walkways. Indoor Wet Locations include shower enclosures.

 

[alfredeneuman]

I didn't mean at isn't listed in the Article 100 definitions, or that UL doesn't list damp rated luminaires, but that the NEC doesn't list any wiring methods that are approved in particular for damp locations.

 

[Falcon67]

Have to ask the dwarfs what code they used to wire the Misty Mountains.

 

[rlitman]

I didn't mean at isn't listed in the Article 100 definitions, or that UL doesn't list damp rated luminaires, but that the NEC doesn't list any wiring methods that are approved in particular for damp locations.

Fair enough. And for the OP's purposes, either the location is wet, or it is not.

From the definition I cited below:
"Outdoor Damp Locations include covered patios and covered porches that are fully protected from water, even during storms."

If the boxes are fully protected from water, even during storms, then they may not be wet locations for the purposes of wiring, even though they will certainly need to follow the other requirements for damp locations (GFCI is needed, luminaires will need to be rated for damp locations, etc).

 

[Marctrees]

I am having an Outdoor Kitchen/ covered patio built.
I have provisions to pull a 12/2 line under the bar area to wire up some outlets that are in the back splash of the counter top.

I am pulling 12/2 UF wire to daisy chain 5 outlets to 1 circuit.
I know I need a GFCI outlet and covered outlets.
My questions:
1. Do I need the grey water tight boxes with the UF wire connector or can I just use a blue box? I bought a couple thicker deeper blue boxes but now I am questioning if I can use those.

2. When I go from box to box, can the wire just hang there, or go to ground, or do I need to secure it to the back wall? This is under the counter tops.

If this is under a full roof, and all the wiring is within a cabinet, wire it w the blue sub 1 $ boxes, but use the grey WP covers.

No "cast" sealed boxes, no "watertight" connectors.

Rather, just like inside a house.

Don't worry so much about securing/ stapling, just use your logical head.

UNLESS you have a Inspector coming, then MAY be different.

In ALL cases, be GFI protected. Marc

 

[Marctrees]

I recommend using a box and grounding the wire. Check here for GFCI if you are looking for an affordable yet a good quality GFCI

Not even American brand labeled, let alone possibly even then Jineez made.

Figure very roughly ballpark $14 for a GFI outlet, that can then be wired for "downstream" protected receptacles.

But even Leviton, Slater, even though now probably Jineez made also. Marc

 

[Marctrees]

And, again, if under a full roof, you can use NMB between boxes.

Marc

 

[Marctrees]

"Don't worry so much about securing/ stapling, just use your logical head."

OK, what I meant was.. I would use your head and put in some staples, primarily right near each box... what I meant was.. If this is all in a permanent mounted totally closed in cabinet then I would not be super concerned. Marc