Crabgrass attack!

[RobSmith]

We've got this stuff called Zero and another called Roundup .. It's sprayed or wiped onto the leaves. It kills the roots. even if you replant the same day only the chosen grass dies .

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

This came in handy.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Fiskars-Uproot-Weed-Remover-78706935J/202681983

Now that thing looks pretty slick!

 

[billspit]

Now that thing looks pretty slick!

It's great for broadleaf weeds, not so hot for grass.

 

[rjacobs]

Here is crabgrass. Most likely derived its name from the "legs" it produces. As one of the pics indicate with my hand in it, it can be lifted like a sod mat. I am now letting my two yards just be crabgrass, it will just be plush green and soft to walk on. No more weed control or fertilizers needed.

that dont look like crab grass at all. Crab grass is clumpy.

That looks like Bermuda or St. Augustine. My bermuda yard has the runners. They are a blessing and a curse. It will fill in bare spots, BUT the **** also grows up into my landscaping beds, under the landscaping brick and into the damn bed.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I have been doing an experiment with this

It is very effective on broadleaf weeds and most crabgrass succumbs after 2 application about 4 days apart. Now I have tried it on yellow nutsedge. Well, after 2 applications 4 days apart and about 10 days, the nutsedge doesn't like (slow growth), but it is not dead yet ! 3rd application today.

Note : I am spot spraying.

 

[Falcon67]

Makes 3 gallons. $12.99 Not cheap !

No, it's not. But it works.

 

[Speed4Life]

Try Quinclorac for the crabgrass. it's the top rated crabgrass killer out there if that doesn't do it, the only way to get rid of it is digging it out of there by the root.

 

[petee_c]

I used pindee (generic pendulum) preemergent in the spring and have about 1/3rd of the Crabgrass that we had last yr.

I also did 2 fertilizer treatments. One in April and one in June.

We had a really dry July, but had good rainfall through most of August. Really happy with how the lawn looks except for the patch of Crabgrass remaining.

Mowing with the riding mower at the highest setting (says 4" on the deck shifter) and I could mow it every 5 days, but due to our schedule I can only get to it every 6-7 days, and I'm taking about 1.5" off the top.

I need to fix the hose bib at the back and I might roundup the area and try replanting. Area is about 15'x20'. We are on a 100x175' lot.

Sent from my LG-D852 using Tapatalk

 

[rjacobs]

Or does CG have to be in individual "clumps" to be CG ?

typically yes, I believe. Crabgrass is typically clumps and grows that way. I believe even if an entire yard was made out of crabgrass it would still be in clumps, just a lot of them. But we typically have purple crab grass down here in Texas. There are other types as I understand it.

This is basically what all the crab grass that grows in my yard looks like

 

[jmurfk]

Here is crabgrass. Most likely derived its name from the "legs" it produces. As one of the pics indicate with my hand in it, it can be lifted like a sod mat. I am now letting my two yards just be crabgrass, it will just be plush green and soft to walk on. No more weed control or fertilizers needed.

That's Bermuda. I know this since I seeded my front yard (15,000 SqFt) recently with 150lbs of bermuda seed, after it was leveled. I seeded 50lbs, three different times. After the first 50lb seeding, the seed took, but the crabgrass took over. Three workers, 6AM-5PM, and 12 drum liners later, my crabgrass problem was gone.

The Bermuda is getting thicker, and the crabgrass is mostly gone. Now, I walk it every few days, and if I see crabgrass I spray a little round up right in the middle, then pull it a few days later when it yellows.

roc_on_the_rocks - The last picture you posted. I don't think the last picture you posted is crabgrass. I had some of that too, and that is a little harder to pull than the crabgrass was. The crabgrass runners shoot out from the center, but you can gather them easily to pull them up, as you put a hand shovel under the roots for leverage. My front yard was leveled with river silt, so the weeds pulled easy.

 

[jmurfk]

typically yes, I believe. Crabgrass is typically clumps and grows that way. I believe even if an entire yard was made out of crabgrass it would still be in clumps, just a lot of them. But we typically have purple crab grass down here in Texas. There are other types as I understand it.

This is basically what all the crab grass that grows in my yard looks like

That's what I had mostly also, was the crabgrass with lower purple stems.

 

[BonzoHansen]

I've had great luck with this on nutsedge.

 

[gregtwojeeps]

That's Bermuda. I know this since I seeded my front yard (15,000 SqFt) recently with 150lbs of bermuda seed, after it was leveled. I seeded 50lbs, three different times. After the first 50lb seeding, the seed took, but the crabgrass took over. Three workers, 6AM-5PM, and 12 drum liners later, my crabgrass problem was gone.

The Bermuda is getting thicker, and the crabgrass is mostly gone. Now, I walk it every few days, and if I see crabgrass I spray a little round up right in the middle, then pull it a few days later when it yellows.

roc_on_the_rocks - The last picture you posted. I don't think the last picture you posted is crabgrass. I had some of that too, and that is a little harder to pull than the crabgrass was. The crabgrass runners shoot out from the center, but you can gather them easily to pull them up, as you put a hand shovel under the roots for leverage. My front yard was leveled with river silt, so the weeds pulled easy.

Well, o.k. I stand corrected. I have Bermuda grass then. It is a shame my Bermuda grass is not golf course grade though, I could set myself up some putting practice greens out front. .

 

[roc_on_the_rocks]

Thanks again for every single input, much appreciated.

So if this is not crabgrass, what the F*@% is this SOB?

Should I still try Spectracide Weed Stop For Lawns Plus Crabgrass Killer?

Here's some cropped pictures for a closer look.

 

[Erampu]

typically yes, I believe. Crabgrass is typically clumps and grows that way. I believe even if an entire yard was made out of crabgrass it would still be in clumps, just a lot of them. But we typically have purple crab grass down here in Texas. There are other types as I understand it.

This is basically what all the crab grass that grows in my yard looks like

That's witchgrass.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Thanks again for every single input, much appreciated.

So if this is not crabgrass, what the F*@% is this SOB?

Should I still try Spectracide Weed Stop For Lawns Plus Crabgrass Killer?

Yes, I would call that crabgrass and at $8/gallon, you can't go wrong !

If you haven't had rain in more than 5 days, water it the day before. Also water it the day after. Give it about 3-5 days and hit it again.

You are going to have dead spots that you need to reseed as soon as your peak temps stays below 80. The plants have already dropped their seeds, so a pre-emergent next spring is very important.

 

[theoldwizard1]

That's witchgrass.

Witch Grass is one of the many types of crabgrass.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Well, o.k. I stand corrected. I have Bermuda grass then. It is a shame my Bermuda grass is not golf course grade though, I could set myself up some putting practice greens out front.

Bermuda grass is also call couch grass, devil's grass and scutch according to Wikipedia.

It has a relatively coarse-bladed form with numerous cultivars selected for different turf requirements. It is also highly aggressive, crowding out most other grasses and invading other habitats, and has become a hard-to-eradicate weed in some areas (it can be controlled somewhat with Triclopyr, Mesotrione, Fluazifop-p-butyl, and Glyphosate)

I suspect the "cultivated" varieties are nicer looking.

 

[roc_on_the_rocks]

Yes, I would call that crabgrass and at $8/gallon, you can't go wrong !

If you haven't had rain in more than 5 days, water it the day before. Also water it the day after. Give it about 3-5 days and hit it again.

You are going to have dead spots that you need to reseed as soon as your peak temps stays below 80. The plants have already dropped their seeds, so a pre-emergent next spring is very important.

Thanks a ton theoldwizard1 and everyone else. I'll try exactly that, I'll start watering today.

IF that fails, here an idea:
If we do a good job spreading a rumor that this SOB can be rolled/smoked and gives high, dudes will show up overnight and my lawn will be pest-free by labor day!

 

[DC73]

That is just quinclorac.

Yes, but Drive XLR8 is not diluted like the **** in the box stores which absolutely does not work around here.

DC

 

[floridafarmer]

All the lawn companies in FL were unhappy when Asulox was moved to only agricultural use as it was the best crabgrass control in St. Augustine lawns - you can still buy it on ebay but I think it's labeled only for Agricultural use and it's really expensive -
here's the link:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Asulox-Herb...se-/182125488061?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368

 

[grandall4]

I'm located in MA, so my results may be different. I did about 1/2 acre of turf reno this spring and couldn't get the pre-emergent down in some spots. Due to dry and hot weather, I opted against quinclorac and decided to try Tenacity. So far, I'm pleased. It took the crabgrass out in 1 application and with 2 applications, it has taken out the creeping bentgrass.

Tenacity is a relatively new material, but I like that it isn't "hot" and it's selective. The remainder of the blue, fescue, and rye are not affected, unlike some of the hot crabgrass killers

 

[LS6 Tommy]

Bayer Crabgrass Control for lawns contains Fenoxaprop-p-ethyl and it works really well on crabgrass in lawns, but be careful If you have anything other than Fescue, Perennial Rye or Bluegrass. It will beat up "Southern" types of grasses like Bermuda or Centipede.

Bayer also markets the same exact product as "Bermudagrass Control".

Tommy

 

[Falcon67]

I have been doing an experiment with this

It is very effective on broadleaf weeds and most crabgrass succumbs after 2 application about 4 days apart. Now I have tried it on yellow nutsedge. Well, after 2 applications 4 days apart and about 10 days, the nutsedge doesn't like (slow growth), but it is not dead yet ! 3rd application today.

Note : I am spot spraying.

FWIW - I like Spectracide for most weeds but the "crabgrass" part of that doesn't seem to work here. It does better if I take the off-the-shelf hose end sprayer concentration and pour that in a gallon jug with a ratio of about 1/2~1 pint to the gallon. I'm trying a hefty application of Weed-B-Gone grabgrass control right now, so we'll see. One yard has the Image on it, the other Weed-B-Gone. It's a race to the death!

Note - I have both Bermuda (preferred) and St. Augustine (came with the house). None of the stuff I use hurts the Bermuda. If the St. A gets hurt, well - too bad.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

FWIW - I like Spectracide for most weeds but the "crabgrass" part of that doesn't seem to work here. It does better if I take the off-the-shelf hose end sprayer concentration and pour that in a gallon jug with a ratio of about 1/2~1 pint to the gallon. I'm trying a hefty application of Weed-B-Gone grabgrass control right now, so we'll see. One yard has the Image on it, the other Weed-B-Gone. It's a race to the death!

Note - I have both Bermuda (preferred) and St. Augustine (came with the house). None of the stuff I use hurts the Bermuda. If the St. A gets hurt, well - too bad.

Any of the "good" crab grass killers I've found to be effective will also kill your Bermuda...

Tommy

 

[Falcon67]

Image does not hurt the Bermuda on the ground here, been using it for years and it does kill the crabgrass, nutsedge, spider grass and such. The neighbor has a mega-buck super thick Bermuda lawn that you can stand a stick up in that is almost 10' over in our space since planted 4 years ago. I hit it regularly - and the cheap Bermuda I got from Lowes that is next to the shop - with Image and it doesn't even yellow the Bermuda. Probably has to do with the climate and the variety. Bermuda is supposed to be invasive and the high buck lawn next door is doing that in spots - which we want. But in other places the St. A is winning and I deliberately spray it with Image or other harmful stuff to try and hold it back LOL.

 

[dnjr]

looks like dallis grass to me

 

[theoldwizard1]

FWIW - I like Spectracide for most weeds but the "crabgrass" part of that doesn't seem to work here.

Water the day before and the day after. I hit them a second time after about 4 days. A few took 3 applications.

 

[roc_on_the_rocks]

Water the day before and the day after. I hit them a second time after about 4 days. A few took 3 applications.

I sprayed Spectracide Weed Stop For Lawns Plus Crabgrass Killer on 9/4 (yesterday) around 4pm. No visible difference after 24 hours. I'm turning the water on right now.

When applying Spectracide (or similar), do you guys have an idea of how much to apply? Is a light spray to the crabgrass OK or the entire plant needs a good soak? (I did that latter, just in case, but it gets $$).

Thanks everyone for the helpful posts.

 

[Kilgore Trout]

This probably isn't what you want to hear, but I just ripped it all out by hand. It's not fun, but the my wife and I spent about 90 minutes crawling around and ripping it our of our lawn. If it is in really large clumps, running a dethatcher over it first helps loosen the runners so that then you can get them all together like a big bouquet and rip the whole clump out. Just re-seeded and fertilized today.

 

[roc_on_the_rocks]

My crabgrass 'carpet' is to extensive to consider pulling by hand. If the Spectracide Weed Stop For Lawns Plus Crabgrass Killer doesn't work, I think I'll just wait and let the winter kill it. I'll sure be more vigilant to timing and soil temperature when applying pre-emergent crabgrass herbicide next year.

PS.: Your wife is fantastic! Believe me, not all of them are like that...

 

[theoldwizard1]

My crabgrass 'carpet' is to extensive to consider pulling by hand. If the Spectracide Weed Stop For Lawns Plus Crabgrass Killer doesn't work, ...

Second application in about 4-5 days.

 

[roc_on_the_rocks]

Second application in about 4-5 days.

Thanks a lot theoldwizard1, will do, and post results.

Do you have an idea of how much to apply? Is a light spray to the crabgrass OK or the entire plant needs a good soak? (I did the latter, just in case, but it gets $$).

 

[Falcon67]

I hose the hell out of them LOL. I put the Weed-B-Gone in a yard sprayer straight, no dilution. Takes days to see results from most of this stuff though. I'd re-spray in the 4-5 day window but we have a full race weekend and rain is forecast, so no go on the follow up as usual. Been like that most of the year - if I decide to spray, the neighbor decides to water and dilutes the application or it rains like hell right on the follow.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Watering before and after the spray "opnes up" the roots and lets the plants take up the chemical better.

 

[roc_on_the_rocks]

Hi theoldwizard1, it's working!

48 hours after the first spray of Spectracide Weed Stop For Lawns Plus Crabgrass Killer, the crabgrass plants are yellowing and curling up!! I'm amazed by the different result comparing when I sprayed the I Wished My Weeds Would Be Gone - But They Aren't!. I used the garden hose sprayer the Weed B Gone, following manufacturer's instructions. Is the garden hose method less effective than spraying the pre-mix?

Weather permitting, I'll hit again with the Spectracide Thursday or Friday.

 

[Falcon67]

Sweet! The fight is on.

 

[czervika]

Atrazine. Though I don't know what it'll do to your other grass. And just FYI is is pretty nasty stuff.

Spray it on as directed and wait about 15 days. It won't look like it's doing much til then.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Do you have an idea of how much to apply? Is a light spray to the crabgrass OK or the entire plant needs a good soak? (I did the latter, just in case, but it gets $$).

I have been using the pre-mix because I don't have a lot of crabgrass and it is spread out. I gave each plant about 4-5 shots right in the center.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Perfect time of year for this because you can plant new grass early next month (Oct).

• Rake out the loose/dead grass in the area.
• Rake in composted manure (your going to need 4+ bags).
• Add grass seed. Rake in lightly.
• The first week you need to water it lightly twice a day.
• Apply a "fall" or starter fertilizer late in Oct.

If you live on the "edge" of a city, see if you can find a "feed store" (or Tractor Supply) in a near by small town. Almost all of them will sell grass seed in bulk at MUCH less than you can buy it a any "big box" store. )Sunny mix" is fine. They will also have 10-10-10 fertilizer which is a good starter fertilizer. You can use what you have left over in early spring (beginning of April).

I use 19-19-19 on my entire lawn in late spring before the temps are in the 70s. Works great and much cheaper than residential fertilizers.

No favorite for pre-merriment crabgrass control.