Craft paper faced insulation in ceiling - fire hazard

[disquek]

Hi Everyone.

I recently insulated the ceiling in my 18x28 detached cinder block garage with R30 craft faced insulation. The ceiling height is 9'. As soon as I was done I had a forehead slapping moment of "ah ****, this stuff is flammable". So now I need to cover it with something. Drywall and OSB are obvious candidates, but will require a lot of work and make future changes more of a hassle.

Does anyone have any suggestions of something to cover the insulation with that will allow things like welding and grinding safely? I'm thinking something like the material found in the insulation I should have used (a fire rated foil faced insulation) in a house wrap like idea.

Thank you for the help!
Kyle

 

[samert111]

Kyle,
I used the same insulation in my pole building and I'm using a lighter gauge of the metal siding used on Pole Building on the ceiling. It goes up quick and there is no finishing required and it looks real clean.

It's called Dura Panel and you can order it from Menards in any length you want. It comes 3 ft wide and runs around $2.00 a running foot.

 

[jklingel]

Double check all your wiring, etc, and sheet rock it. What is the chance of needing to go in and redo? If so, just rip out the 'rock and git er done. The steel siding may be OK, but I doubt that it would pass code; check on that. It sure won't do much if your torch or grinder gets something you forgot about burning in the corner.

 

[halltrail]

I just started doing the same thing...but R19 and 12ft ceilings. I do a lot of welding and grinding too. So, Ill be putting up 5/8" drywall over the next couple of weeks.

 

[larry4406]

If you don't want to cover with drywall, talk to an insulation contractor. There is a rolled product "FSK" which is foil like with interwoven strings. This comes in rolls about 4 feet wide. You can cover the insulation with this, straple thru to the studs. We were required to have this on all exposed insulation areas in the houses that I built. Not sure it will stand up to welding.

 

[Fastback]

Im going the Durapanel route, 720 SF costs about $400 & weighs little.

 

[csargents1546]

The other concern is that the kraft face insulation is actually a vapor barrier. I would defiantley go with drywall instead of osb is you are doing any welding/grinding.

 

[6768rogues]

Lots of terms bouncing around here.
The Kraft facing is combustible, not flammable.
The discussion is leading toward a noncombustible or reduced combustible facing. If you use something like metal barn cladding, it is noncombustible but not fire rated. It will stand a shower of sparks or spatters, but something like continuous grinding with a stream of sparks directly hitting the metal could heat up whatever is behind it.
None of the posts so far provide anything with a fire rating, because individual products do not have fire ratings. Fire ratings are for specific time periods and reference specific products installed in tested systems. For example, 5/8 type X wallboard is not fire rated, but if installed in a UL-465 wall system, the system will provide a fire rating.

 

[disquek]

Thanks very much to everyone for the help.

I'm not sure what direction I'm going yet.

One question, the ceiling is 2x10s on 16" centers with an 18' span. The attic floor had been quite bouncy. Before insulating I installed three rows of full height blocking. It's a bit more firm now.

There appears to be considerable sag in the middle of the ceiling. Around 1" maybe 1.5". This is based on comparing the ceiling to a steel I beam that's just under it (assuming the I beam is straight).

Any thoughts on drywalling in these conditions? Will flex cause the drywall to crack?

What happens when I take all of the stuff out of the attic and some of the sag comes out?

Should I install 1x lath under the joists before installing drywall?

Thanks again!

 

[halltrail]

Damn, I'm not sure what I want now durapanel or drywall. The thought of not having to mud and tape is very appealing. I can't find much info on the durapanel. Is that something I could order at a local building supplier?

 

[disquek]

It looks like durapanel is only available in the midwest. I'm in Philly.

Does anyone know if there is an east coast equivalent?

-Kyle

 

[Plump]

Damn, I'm not sure what I want now durapanel or drywall. The thought of not having to mud and tape is very appealing. I can't find much info on the durapanel. Is that something I could order at a local building supplier?

It's a garage! You don't need to tape or mud. Even if you do, there is no need to sand and finish like in your home. Just adds "character"!

I too bounced around those panels but a drywall lift is cheap to rent or borrow from a friend and you can get the fire rating that you need.

 

[disquek]

Just to bring this thread full circle.

I decided to go with the tin roofing (garage lining) solution. I like the idea of no finishing and the light weight nature of it. Plus it looks cool!

DuraPanel isn't available back east. But I found a place that makes an equivalent.

http://www.abmartin.net They're in the Reading, PA area.

They offer many options, but I went with a galvanized "A B M" panel (a 29g grandrib 3 panel).

They will cut to any length you want, they're cheap ($1.44 a foot for 3' wide panels), and their customer service was really excellent (it was made and loaded in my truck before I knew it). They even made a custom piece to work around my garage door opener.

I'm about half done installing it. I have to work around a full garage including a race car that in the middle of it's winter tear down (on jack stands and can't be moved easily). But it's coming along ... slowly.

Thanks for all of the help and advise. This forum is a great resource.

-Kyle