Craftsman 10 drawer toolbox restore

[jbmorrey]

Recently found this old Craftsman 10 drawer toolbox with the intention to restore it. Obviously they did not come in black, so with a lot of help and tips from ZKLING here on the site I was slowly but surely removing the top coat of black. After a couple of drawers, I found areas that gave me a lot of problems, very thick paint and really scratched up, unfortunately I have come to the conclusion that I will not be able to only remove the black and leave the original finish behind. I would like some suggestions on the paint color. The bottom and inside was untouched by the black paint so I how the original color. My challenge is that I am limited to spray can only paints, and the original finish was a hammered look, so I would like to at least do that. I have on drawer that I already sprayed with the siler hammered and I got a piece of metal laying around and painted it the next darker "grey" color that rustoleum had. The original color has a slight green to it and is hard to match, especially because I am limited to only spray cans.

What would you guys choose? Or does anyone know of any other canned hammered options out there?

When I picked it up

Here are the.current options

Thanks for the feedback!

James M

 

[FJ 432]

The lighter silver would be my choice only because when I think of that box I picture silver. Can't wait to see it.

 

[countryroad82]

Green!!

 

[nine4gmc]

I like the gray hammer, jmo...

 

[jakemac]

Why not use both ?
Darker gray for the case, and lighter gray for the drawer fronts.

Monochrome two-tone.

 

[jbmorrey]

Ok, so I have 1 vote for silver, one for the grey, one for green and one for a mix of the two. Wow. I guess I can't go wrong! Are there any other rattle can hammered finishes available other than Rustoleum?

Another question, I have been using acetone to take the black off of the chrome handles, it's working, just takes a lot of work, anyone have any other ideas that may be easier?

Thanks

 

[BajaScout]

Ok, so I have 1 vote for silver, one for the grey, one for green and one for a mix of the two. Wow. I guess I can't go wrong! Are there any other rattle can hammered finishes available other than Rustoleum?

Another question, I have been using acetone to take the black off of the chrome handles, it's working, just takes a lot of work, anyone have any other ideas that may be easier?

Thanks

Fine steel wool?

 

[jakemac]

Another question, I have been using acetone to take the black off of the chrome handles, it's working, just takes a lot of work, anyone have any other ideas that may be easier?

Thanks

A looooong soak in Simple Green has been known to soften some paints. You could try putting some in a tub, then supporting the drawers on blocks so the handle dips in the solution for a day or two. Then try a stiff nylon brush to remove the bulk of the paint before using the acetone and an old toothbrush to finish the rest.

 

[jbmorrey]

Actually, Fine steel wool is what I've been using with the Acetone. It does work, don't get me wrong, it just takes me about 45 minutes of work to complete one..... and I have 9 more to go including a lock that has a lot more curves and hard places to get into, so I hoping to find something that will lift off the black paint a little easier and I have no clue as to what kind of paint it is!

James M

 

[Larch]

Have you tried some paint stripper? Brush some on, carefully then use a putty knife to remove. Always worked for me. Good luck, that is a sweet box!

 

[jbmorrey]

I will have to try the paint thinner, but is that much different than acetone?i thought the kind did the same. My wife actually used acetone to take off some stubborn nail polish, so it was my first guess on what could do the job. I will try some thinner. Any other ideas on paint? Still up in the air on which to choose, does anyone have any pics of boxes or anything that they have done in the silver or grey hammered finish. I'm curious on how it looks on a larger scale than a little piece.

Thanks,
James M

 

[ZRX61]

My '53 Craftsman box has identical handles. I glassbeaded them to get rid of the rust & leave a nice stain finish

 

[jbmorrey]

XRX61, you wouldn't happen to have a picture, not sure what a stain finish would look like, I'm curious.

Thanks

 

[Larch]

I am talking about stripper, not thinner. This is the brand I use, you can get it at your local hardware store in about any size can you want, good stuff.
http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=4024132&KPID=7333382&pla=pla_7333382

 

[jbmorrey]

Larch, gotcha, I read one thing and understood something else. Will try the stripper. My sister refinishes furniture and I will try some of the stuff she uses. If it can strip through all of that antique varnish and paint, should have no problem with the paint I have, thanks!!
James M

 

[fullthrottle24]

Well, I've been struggling like you to match old Craftsman hammered gray. I just painted something with rust oleum gray and something else with hammerite gray. Neither matches that bluish/green gray on my old box. I did see Rustoleum has a pewter gray now, but it is their universal line of paint. Might try and mix light blue hammered with gray hammered and spray it from one of those aerosol mix bottles.

 

[sho92]

VHT makes a hammer/crinkle paint that might work. I've never used it, I've just seen it on the shelf. I think you have to heat it to get the texture so you might be able to get an accurate look. The only problem is it only comes in black or red. I've seen where the black was used as a base coat for the texture with a different color top coat with good results.

 

[jbmorrey]

Fullthrottle, have you seen the Verde Green, some images online look greenish grey, while others not so much. It seems like it's not available in store, so it's a risk to buy at $10 a can on amazon!, I don't not have anything to mix colors,might just have to pick between lightor dark grey

 

[fullthrottle24]

Yes, I've seen Verde Green. I can even get a can, as an old hardware store here has it. I just seem to be drawn to the light blue instead. Here is a pic of Hammerite gray done with a roller. I like the gray better then the silver.

 

[jbmorrey]

Fullthrottle, I agree, the grey is better, I have a couple bottom chests that are dark, one is Kennedy, I think the bright silver would be too light in color. Thanks for the hammered grey pic, that helps.
James M

 

[Two Door]

Benjamin Moore (the house paint people) make a hammered paint, called Molten Metallics, which is suitable for use on metal.

Two colors they make it in are Silver and Gun Smoke (which appears to have a green undertone in the color sample I have). I suspect adding a little of the Gun Smoke to the Silver would come close to the original Craftsman color.

It is not available in spray cans, but since it is a hammered finish I don't think that rolling or brushing would be detectable, especially if you thin slightly and position your surfaces horizontally for application. Since DIYers are now painting cars with a roller and thinned Rustoleum, I don't know why this wouldn't be feasible for a toolbox.

 

[zkling]

Actually, Fine steel wool is what I've been using with the Acetone. It does work, don't get me wrong, it just takes me about 45 minutes of work to complete one..... and I have 9 more to go including a lock that has a lot more curves and hard places to get into, so I hoping to find something that will lift off the black paint a little easier and I have no clue as to what kind of paint it is!

James M

I'd really try to save the original paint. So are you making any progress with the simple green and acetone on the non handle parts?

You might be able to use a thick stripper such as air craft stripper or jasco paint and epoxy on just the handles. However I'm not sure if it would effect the chrome or not so proceed with caution. Both of them are very powerful strippers that will remove layers of paint.

If you really want to repaint it I'd go with a grey, silver, bronze, blue, light green or red hammered finish. The bronze might be nice :

 

[jbmorrey]

Well... after hours of cleaning off black paint with first Simple Green, then acetone, then I just said hell..... I'm sanding it off!! I finally have a finished product. I went with the Hammered Grey from Rustoleum and I decided to keep the inside of the lid original as it did not get the awful black paint sprayed all over it. Here is the before..........

And after about 4 coats of paint and a lot of elbow grease!!

Could not get the dents all out.... but I don't mind!

Interior kept original......

 

[softailgarage]

Sandblast the whole box, then go with the lighter silver on the drawer faces and everything else in Dark Gray Hammered.

 

[softailgarage]

Ha....or, go all silver! Box looks good!

 

[methomas70]

Nice!

 

[jbmorrey]

When it comes to the label on the inside lid, I am pretty sure I know what it states....However I was considering re-creating it if I restore the interior on day. Is that the only type of information that was in the inside of the box or am I missing anything else?

Thanks

 

[countryroad82]

Meh those little dings and dents add character. Of the boxes I have fixed I might hammer out the worst stuff but I never fretted over the small stuff lol. Looks great! I still would have went green though!

 

[jbmorrey]

Countryroad, I wish I could have matched the original color, I assume that's what you mean by the greenish color. I am limited to spray cans and wanted to keep that hammered look.

On another note......I was thinking that the box is a little too glossy, what would be the best way to "Satin" it down a little. I was considering waiting a few weeks to insure it's completely dry and maybe do a litle wipe with a 0000 steel wool, or should I clear coat satin on it? Any thoughts or suggestions?

James M

 

[jakemac]

The easiest way, that won't risk the finish on the paint, is to overspray it with a satin clear coat once your top coat fully cures.

 

[countryroad82]

I was meaning by my first post. I like the hammered green like on old machine equipment, but that is me lol. As for taking a little gloss down, wait a little while and see if it might tone down a bit. I think you got the match about as close as you will ever get it myself as in the pics it is hardly noticeable. You could take the steel wool to it lightly to tone it down but I would think after it gets used/ handled more and more you will get the effect you are looking for.

 

[older=better]

Great job on that box. I really like the gray.

 

[hemifalcon]

came out looking nice.... good job.

 

[jbmorrey]

The only thing I wish I could have done was remove the drawer pulls in order to do a proper polish and buff on them. I just had to settle for sanding it down to finer grit sandpaper. I had to use Pop rivets on the bottom as I am not setup to install the other types of rivets.

I think I am going to go with the clear satin finish after it cures. Would I need to tape up the drawer pulls and everything else or would it be ok just to spray over the whole thing? I am a little concerned about the exposed bare metal getting rusty. ould this prevent that from happening?

 

[jeepinjz]

Looks Great have my grandpas old snap on I'm going to do someday

 

[Larch]

That turned out great! I don't mind having some dents and dings. They provide a story of what the box has been through over the years. I have the bottom roller cab for that box, with drawers all the way down. Instead of the storage cabinet at the bottom. I have been looking for a top like that for some time now. I did manage to find a late thirties box, but it just doesn't look right on the roller. I am torn on weather or not to strip her down and give it a fresh coat. It is original, if someone would have painted it before, it would be a no brainer.

 

[jbmorrey]

Larch - I am looking for a matching bottom box! Together we have a complete set!! As for the box, I guess it depends on just how much f the finish is left. I know it's very, very hard to match the original paint color and texture, and impossible if you want to do it from a spray can (This I found out). I would be curious to see your bottom box if you have a pic! I wish I had the option to stay completely original, I would have kept it that way. I was lucky enough that the inside of the box was NOT painted with black exterior house paint!!

James M

 

[countryroad82]

Larch, DONT DO IT IF IT LOOKS DECENT!!!! It's only original once!!

 

[thesilverone]

nice job!

 

[lauver]

jbmorrey,

Nice job on the restore

I've seen that style of chest before, but never the 10-drawer version. It's definitely a keeper, and probably somewhat rare.

For the record, your 10-drawer chest was listed as a number 6511 and first sold in 1955 for $44. It was last sold in 1959 as a number 6511N for $56.

The catalogs listed the paint color as "Machinery Gray", and it was the top of the line (i.e. "Sears best" & most expensive) mechanics tool chest during this era.