Craftsman 10" radial saw

[matemike]

I know this is not the most sought after power blade. But I got it for free a year ago and I feel obliged to put it to use. Any guesses how old this thing is? My guess is mid to late 90's.

I broke it down and greased all the moving parts, mainly the deck height control and bevel control clutch. The motor worked just fine; although my shop vac running on the same 15amp power strip as the radial saw tripped it two times in a row. So I need to run off two separate outlets to use everything correctly. I'm in the middle of replacing the deck and rear fence. I cannot for the life of me figure out how to make the rear fence placement match the distance markings for the "blade out". The markings make the fence placement right at the riser post. I must me misreading something. For that reason I just plan to not use those markings and always just measure off the rear fence itself. That'll be most accurate anyways. Thanks for checking it out. More pics as progress continues. I plan to get one of these for it too. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PATV14A/?tag=atomicindus08-20

The day it came home


Today

 

[Mark in Indiana]

Matemike,
Is there a tag on the frame? If so, there should be a model number (113.xxxxx) and another number that will indicate the date of manufacture. Mine is 1068.

If you Google "RAS recall" you should find that you can get 100$ for your saw, if it falls into the correct age and model number. I've sent 6 so far.

Although they have a bad reputation, I keep my 1968 RAS because if safley used, it's very versatile, does a great job for my needs and is fun to use.

 

[matemike]

So was this saw made in 1936? I find that hard to believe.



Definitely useful. I've got to do some dado cuts for some work bench legs and this thing can rip a piece of plywood in half perfectly.

 

[Roberts210]

My first RAS, in 1975 was a Craftsman. I went down to Sears and hauled it home in my VW bus. I was building custom furniture and weaving looms in Santa Fe, N.M. I loved that saw... at first. The C-man blade that came with the saw was aggressive and one had to be very careful or the blade would leap forward and charge into the work. I developed a method of straight-arming when I used it to lessen the chance of it getting away from me. That was the last Craftsman saw I bought tho!

 

[Packard V8]

Learn the basics. Ask around for some old guy who's learned how to square the table and arm. Once set, they stay set. The RAS is a better machine than most of its operators, evidently. For an inexpensive machine, it can do many operations adequately.

Building a timber-framed garden shed, I needed to crosscut a bunch of 4"x 4"s on the 45-degree; requiring a 12" blade without the guard. It did the job perfectly; just required one's full attention to the operation.

jack vines

 

[Mark in Indiana]

Matemike,
I'm not familiar with the newer serial number codes. However, I found a manual for yours that was printed in 1996.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/par...al?pathRender=fromManualTabPage&manualIndex=0

I would recommend that you look up some YouTube videos on operating a RAS. Even for the most experienced, there are a lot of good tips and tricks. BTW: I would never-ever-ever rip a board with a RAS.

Below is a house plant caster cart that I made from my RAS and drill press:


Edit: When I'm not using it to cut & shape wood, I mount a buffing wheel in place of the blade and a round ScotchBrite holder on the drill chuck side for cleaning metal details.

 

[Cruzan80]

So, someone already got the recall kit for yours. So no $100. When the new blade guard came, it had a notice that the in/out feed measurements would no longer be accurate, so that is why they don't line up. Used safely, they can be a valuable tool. The biggest issue with ones from your era are keeping it lined up correctly.

 

[crguy]

I see RAS on CL all the time for very little money or actually free. Must be some good reasons why people are dumping them and going to mitre saws.

 

[Cruzan80]

Because people don't want to store them. And contractors need stuff to go to job sites.

Same reason nobody includes boxes with tools anymore, they all have bags.

 

[7th Kahuna]

I see RAS on CL all the time for very little money or actually free. Must be some good reasons why people are dumping them and going to mitre saws.

Lots of them were purchased by home hobbyists who stashed them into garages that today are filled with other things. It seems there are not as many hobbyist woodworkers these days and with so few schools offering woodshop and so many other activities to command young peoples time, there are just a lot of homeless RASs out there.

Another point is familiarity and availability. If you have never used a RAS why would you not simply turn to a compound miter saw. It is still my go to saw for crosscut operations, though I have finally purchased a 1960's DeWalt RAS that I need to get set up. Assuming you are not a Craigslist junkie, as so many of us here are, I don't know that you can walk into HomeDepot or Sears and buy a RAS anymore.

But if you ask me, I think the single biggest factor is the popular misconception that they are inherently dangerous. (More dangerous than a Skil Saw?) I see it time and time again on this board and hear it among friends. People simply don't know how to set them up properly and they buy the wrong blades. Around here at least, the big box stores don't carry the proper blades and if you ask they will sell you a blade for a compound miter saw. Wrong.

The proper blade for a RAS has a neutral to slightly negative tooth pitch. The proper blade should not ride up onto the work or rush the operator. A table saw blade will. Be sure to keep the sawdust and cutoffs clear of the blade's path of travel. The best book I know on the subject is Mr. Sawdust's (Wally Kunkel) book "How to Master the Radial Saw". Wally's book provides good instruction on set up and use of the RAS as well as instructions for the construction of a top notch replacement table. Search "Mr. Sawdust Table" on YouTube for videos.

Wally worked for DeWalt for years and as a result the book is specific to DeWalt saws, but much of the information is generic to any RAS.

 

[cgrutt]

Had a very similar RAS from late 70s early 80s. The plastic housing on top arm was different and there was a lever swing release on top. Otherwise everything else looks pretty much the same. Have no idea what that date code meant but would guess it's about the same general age.

Nearly lost some fingers with mine but was my fault. I much prefer my table saw and gave up on the RAS for a sliding compound saw long ago. More about the space than anything else. Stay safe.

 

[Big Bad Dad]

Your saw looks identical to mine. I bought it in 1991 to use while building my house. I used the **** outta it! Then, I built some adirondak style chairs to go on the porch. And it has been stored, unused, in my outbuilding since about 1994... I love it, and don't care to part with it. One thing to keep in mind. I kind of considered it a skilsaw on a stand when I bought it. PAY ATTENTION to the 2.75 horsepower thing. If it grabs something and spits it at you, it will hurt! I used it to make the cuts for my cedar siding. Making long rips, very importnant to use the anti kickback thingy. And once, while making arip, it spit a knot out of the wood and nailed me right between the eyes. Darn near knocked me out or put my lights out!

 

[SchwansManDan]

I see RAS on CL all the time for very little money or actually free. Must be some good reasons why people are dumping them and going to mitre saws.

Probably the same reason why people are removing perfectly good incandescent light bulbs and replacing them with those CFLs ... it's the "next wonderful thing".

The photo in the original post looks like my RAS, purchased in 1989. I would imagine that Sears sold that same model for a few years before and after I bought mine.

I have a 10 inch miter saw, and I like it for what it does. It makes clean cuts at various angles. But it won't rip a board. I can't use it to cut a rabbet or a dado. I darn sure can't slide a sheet of plywood through it.

As someone who has used radial arm saws for about 40 years, I have to say that they are no more dangerous than other power tools spinning sharp blades several thousand times per minute. Know the tool. Read the instructions. Buy a "how to" book, if it will help you.

I've used mine to crosscut, miter, compound miter, rip, bevel rip, and dado. I've mounted sanding drums and sanding discs to the auxiliary shaft. The only thing that has frightened me is using a molding head on it ... I decided that the motor just doesn't spin fast enough to safely use a RAS to make molding, and I have relegated that task to my router table.

 

[DWise]

I have been using my Craftsman RAS since 1967 and it has been a very useful tool, I like it much better than a table saw. The only time I have had a problem with kickback ripping was when I was not paying attention and fed the work from the wrong direction. I recently made a 9 shelf billiard ball rack with 2 foot long concave shelves to keep the balls from rolling off. I don't think I could have done it on a table saw. Proper setup and alignment is key.