HoosierBuddy
Well-known member
Guys,
This is a follow up to my post from a couple of months ago complaining about "arbor slop" on my 30 year old Craftsman 10-inch table saw. The problem (which is endemic to the old C-man saws) is the thread profile on the arbor is undersized and does not fit up well when used with a dado stack.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=398385&referrerid=7815
I ended up fixing this over the weekend on my saw and just wanted to post my "fix". It took a lot longer to remove the arbor from the saw then it did to fix it using the method I show below.
After removing the arbor shaft from the saw, I set it up in my lathe and cut the OD down on the portion in the picture to .555". Note that's about 7/8" long cut...the same length as my dado set is wide. The 3 threads on the rihgt haven't been touched.
Next, I pressed a 7/8" long piece of 5/8" stainless steel .035" wall tubing onto the arbor. Note that it has been slit to allow it to flex open and slide over the threads on the end, which have not been touched. I made the slit with a cut off wheel on a dremel tool. The stainless tubing was available on Amazon in 1 foot lengths...which is enough to repair 12 of these.
Then, I used a hose clamp to squeeze the sleeve down onto the arbor and MIG welded it in 2 spots.
I removed the hose clamp, welded the rest of the slot and at the bevel I had left on the left end of my sleeve and cut it all down to .620, which matched up with my dado blade (I was surprised to find it really didn't measure 5/8"...the Freud stack was just under that).
This shows a test to make sure the dado blade will go on the arbor.
Of course I had to make a spacer to allow a normal saw blade to still work on the arbor with the threads removed. I cut this one out of some aluminum and used a hardened washer.
I reassembled the saw using a new set of arbor bearings and new c-clips. The slop is completely gone now...so I have high hopes my next dado cut will have a flat bottom, rather than be a series of peaks and valleys like it has been every other time I've used a dado stack in this saw.
Phil
This is a follow up to my post from a couple of months ago complaining about "arbor slop" on my 30 year old Craftsman 10-inch table saw. The problem (which is endemic to the old C-man saws) is the thread profile on the arbor is undersized and does not fit up well when used with a dado stack.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=398385&referrerid=7815
I ended up fixing this over the weekend on my saw and just wanted to post my "fix". It took a lot longer to remove the arbor from the saw then it did to fix it using the method I show below.
After removing the arbor shaft from the saw, I set it up in my lathe and cut the OD down on the portion in the picture to .555". Note that's about 7/8" long cut...the same length as my dado set is wide. The 3 threads on the rihgt haven't been touched.
Next, I pressed a 7/8" long piece of 5/8" stainless steel .035" wall tubing onto the arbor. Note that it has been slit to allow it to flex open and slide over the threads on the end, which have not been touched. I made the slit with a cut off wheel on a dremel tool. The stainless tubing was available on Amazon in 1 foot lengths...which is enough to repair 12 of these.
Then, I used a hose clamp to squeeze the sleeve down onto the arbor and MIG welded it in 2 spots.
I removed the hose clamp, welded the rest of the slot and at the bevel I had left on the left end of my sleeve and cut it all down to .620, which matched up with my dado blade (I was surprised to find it really didn't measure 5/8"...the Freud stack was just under that).
This shows a test to make sure the dado blade will go on the arbor.
Of course I had to make a spacer to allow a normal saw blade to still work on the arbor with the threads removed. I cut this one out of some aluminum and used a hardened washer.
I reassembled the saw using a new set of arbor bearings and new c-clips. The slop is completely gone now...so I have high hopes my next dado cut will have a flat bottom, rather than be a series of peaks and valleys like it has been every other time I've used a dado stack in this saw.
Phil
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