Thought this was interesting reference you bearing issue but a basic primer on tear down and rebuild of electric motor.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthr...gs-on-a-Sears-113-series-model-electric-motor
I would try Sears first or their parts direct website for the bearing or a motor
I use to work in a motor rewind shop. How to replace them:
In the process, if you remove any wires, and they are not color coded or labeled; label them.
On a single phase, 110v that should not be a problem, but an ounce of prevention will prevent any problems
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Remove the motor from the saw
Remove the pulley if it is a belt drive / drive coupler etc. as appropriate
If the motor is TEFC - Totally Enclosed Fan Cooled; remove the fan schrod and fan
Mark the end bells to ensure not mixing them up later and to aid in reassembly.
We always punched them with a center punch on the top of the motor:
2 marks for D.E. - Drive end
1 mark for O.D.E. - Opposite Drive End / Fan End if so equiped
That was for cast iron frame motors with bolts thru the end bells into the frame.
If you have a rolled steel frame (basically a tin-can) with thru bolts, it would be a good practice to index the end bells to the frame, meaning put some line-up marks across the split between the frame and end bells. It may help with re-assembly, eliminating rotating the end bells in attempt to get the thru-bolts into holes you can't see inside the motor.
You can use a permanent marker or scribe for that.
Remove the screws that hold the end bells to the frame.
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Remove the end bells. This could be easy or difficult.
With sleeve bearings, if they are in good condition, it should be easy.
If they are worn badly or sized to the shaft, the task could be more difficult.
I would use a rubber-faced dead blow hammer and rap the end of the shaft. That will pop the back end bell off.
If you don't have a dead-blow, use a a 2-3 hammer or whatever you have with a hardwood block protecting the shaft so you don't mushroom the shaft end.
After you remove the ODE end bell from the shaft, you can repeat the proceed and rap that end of the shaft to pop the DE end bell out of the frame. ...or take the rotor out and use a block of wood thru the stator. A hammer handle works too.
Next remove the sleeve bearings from their seat. Depending on your skills and tool you have; this could be a task.
The fast easy way - set the end bells on 2 blocks or stand-off spaces and heat the bearing housing area with an ox-acetylene torch with a rose-bud tip or a larger welding tip. The end bells expand from the heat and the sleeves should fall out.
If you have O.A. torch and if you have aluminum end bells be care not to melt them. If you do, scrap the motor.
Aluminum will melt somewhere around 765 degrees F, depending on its composition.
You could use multiple ways to measure that, a 600, 650, or 700 degree welders temp stick, an infrared thermometer, or adjust your flame to a carbonizing flame, one with inadequate oxygen / excess acetylene / one that makes black smoke.
Smoke up the end bells with soot. The soot will burn off about 100 degrees lower than the melting point of the aluminun. That is your warning to stop heating the end bells.
If you don't have an ox-acetylene torch or access to one you could use a morgan-knocker / slide-hammer style puller with the right attachment. I don't know about MAPP gas, but a Propane torch likely will not produce enough heat fast enough.
They could be machined out on a lathe or vertical milling machine.
So far my guess is none of these are on your radar
If you have a die grinder or dremel, you can cut them out, just be careful not to damage the end bell. At least not in a major way.
You don't have to cut all of the sleeve bearing out. Either a slit or a groove, thinning the wall in one area or two opposite areas.
After you have them removed, clean up the housing and remove and burrs.
Installing the new sleeve bearings. They are held in place with a press fit.
Normally a hydraulic press or an arbor press is used.
You could heat the end bells with any torch or a bearing induction heater and maybe even with an electric frying pan, and simply drop the sleeve bearing in place.
Unless you have a bushing driver of the correct size pounding them in will not work. You will damage the new bearings.
After you have the new bearings installed, make sure the shaft journal is in good shape and re-assemble the motor in reverse sequence
RE: oil-less sleeve bearings? I don't think so, but it may be possible with modern day materials.
And check here
http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/ReplacementBearingListCraftsman.ashx
Cypher
