Craftsman 113 Table Saw Owners

[mangorockfish]

Just acquired a really nice 113 Craftsman 10" table saw today along with about 10 extra blades with varying number of teeth and a dado blade that is adjustable. Is the slot in the plate that the blade comes up through wide enough for the dado blade at its widest position or is there another plate with a wider slot I need to get and if so, where can I get one? Is there a special name for these plates? Thanks, I'm pretty new to table saws.

 

[Cope]

You need a dado insert to safely use any dado blade.

 

[mangorockfish]

Where can I get one to fit my saw?

 

[Cope]

Where can I get one to fit my saw?

Should be able to get a manual/parts list online. May still be available from Sears. If not, eBay. You can also make your own or find an aftermarket at Woodcraft or Rockler.

 

[IowaDon]

Where can I get one to fit my saw?

If you have a router and a flush trim bit with a bearing, you can make your own. Use your factory steel insert for a pattern and double sided tape to hold it to your plywood or MDF blank. Google 'homemade zero clearance insert' for more info. Once you make one, you may very well make several for different width dados and different standard blades.

Option 2:
https://www.woodcraft.com/products/...P4lkR0QMeahOiQra5aYPrHBZCz9j09ggYhhoCHevw_wcB

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[McFarmer]

And you place it over the hole and let the blade cut the slot. Clamp a board over it so it doesn't fly away.

 

[Sawdustmaker]

Should be able to get a manual/parts list online. May still be available from Sears. If not, eBay. You can also make your own or find an aftermarket at Woodcraft or Rockler.

Also check MLCS and Peachtree Woodworking for HDPE blank inserts. Plenty of YouTube videos on how to make one from scratch. Don't forget you splitter or riving knife.

 

[Sawdustmaker]

If you have a router and a flush trim bit with a bearing, you can make your own. Use your factory steel insert for a pattern and double sided tape to hold it to your plywood or MDF blank. Google 'homemade zero clearance insert' for more info. Once you make one, you may very well make several for different width dados and different standard blades.

I've done this. Have you had to sand down your plywood/mdf made inserts if they are too thick? I've used 1/2" mdf and it comes out too thick. Have tried 1/2" plywood (not really 1/2") better, but it is still a bit too thick. Found the HDPE blank inserts from MLCS to work best with my saw (Powermatic 64A).

 

[WWheeler]

Also check MLCS and Peachtree Woodworking for HDPE blank inserts. Plenty of YouTube videos on how to make one from scratch. Don't forget [to remove your] splitter or riving knife.

FIFY

Not going to be using either with a dado.

I've always made my own inserts.

 

[WWheeler]

If you have a router and a flush trim bit with a bearing, you can make your own. Use your factory steel insert for a pattern and double sided tape to hold it to your plywood or MDF blank. Google 'homemade zero clearance insert' for more info. Once you make one, you may very well make several for different width dados and different standard blades.

I've done this. Have you had to sand down your plywood/mdf made inserts if they are too thick? I've used 1/2" mdf and it comes out too thick. Have tried 1/2" plywood (not really 1/2") better, but it is still a bit too thick. Found the HDPE blank inserts from MLCS to work best with my saw (Powermatic 64A).

Thickness of the material doesn't really matter too much if you route out a stepped edge to make the insert sit flush. I've used hardwoods, mdf, plastics, really, whatever is laying around. I make a dozen or so blanks at a time and raise my blade up into them as needed for zero clearance inserts

 

[IowaDon]

One issue with these old Emerson built Craftsman saws is that the lip around the perimeter of the hole for the insert is only down from the table top about a 1/4". Delta, Powermatic, Jet, etc. have a deeper lip, which allows for a thicker plate. However, like WWheeler says, I've used all kinds of different materials for inserts, you just have to rout out the backside to match the available thickness. I use my router table. I also make a bunch at a time, as they make the saw perform better no matter what the operation. The only time the factory red steel insert goes in the saw is for bevel cuts.

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