Craftsman 15 1/2" drill press - Jacob Chuck Removal?

[Vegaman_Dan]

Alright folks, here's the deal:

Model: 113.213780
Serial: 1037.P0063

Sears Craftsman 15 1/2" Drill Press

There is wobble in the chuck and noticeable with drilling. I picked up a dial indicator guage and tested the spindle which is true. The chuck is not though. It's wobbling quite a bit. I want to pull it and replace it as it shows signs of abuse in a previous life, but *HOW*?



Now from what I've read online, these are a tapered fit on the shaft, so it should pop off readily if you separate it between the top of the chuck and that collar right above it. That collar above it has three holes in it for a spanner to let you spin it down on threads to pop the chuck free. Only it stops when it meets and no amount of leverage will make it go farther.

I soaked the whole thing with ATF/Acetone for hours, hit it with heat, etc, no change. Some have a screw that is inside the chuck the shaft, but a mirror and light confirm no screw is present.



There are special wedges made for separating this, but I lack these. I've been using some scrap/dead wood chisels to force the separation without luck.

I'm tempted to get a bearing separator next. Hate to spend the $30-40 for it, but I'm running out of ideas here. What am I missing?

 

[zkling]

There are special wedges made for separating this, but I lack these.

Not on those. The threads were used to not only retain the chuck on the taper, but also to force it off the taper below. It is probably rusted pretty good on there by the looks of it.

The chuck is probably fine, just needs a good cleaning of the jaws. If you do decide to chuck the chuck please let me know I would be interested in the old one.

How did you determine the chuck is bad? Did you put a piece of ground rod in the chuck and measure the TIR of that, basically simulating a drill bit. Or did you indicate on the actual chuck body? If the latter, then that is not really a reference surface.

I kinda doubt if heat would help on that since the body of the chuck is pretty think and by the time it got up to temp the spindle itself would probably also be up to temp and expanded. I woud start with a good soaking of kroil or pb blaster and try unthreading it again.

 

[PETE14]

McMaster Carr sells the wedge sets. They have the set for the 33 taper which sells for $8.10 plus shipping. I removed a very similar chuck from a drill press at work, using those wedges, and that sucker was ON THERE. The wedges worked great, though. Save yourself the frustration and possible damage, and just buy the wedges.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#drill-chuck-wedge-sets/=o1ze7n

 

[Vegaman_Dan]

I'll try checking with a solid rod for run out. I can visually see bits wobbling. I know the body of the chuck is out of whack, but that's not a reliable surface to measure against in the first place. I have all the time in the world, so I'll keep soaking it and tapping lightly. I want to tear the chuck down as it has a few hitches during rotation feeling like a burr or something. Maybe just debris.

The whole thing was pretty well rusted up, so I would not be surprised if rust is even more invasive.

 

[ricky123]

MSC is much better than mc-master carr.

 

[Outlawmws]

Do you have the owners manual for the DP? Sears still has them available for down load. you have to reverse the assembly procedure, and it is in the manual.

A wedge should not be needed for that one. "Use the Spanner Luke!"

 

[rtbt]

see page 6 http://goo.gl/7OaWT5

 

[Vegaman_Dan]

Do you have the owners manual for the DP? Sears still has them available for down load. you have to reverse the assembly procedure, and it is in the manual.

A wedge should not be needed for that one. "Use the Spanner Luke!"

That locking collar screws down to meet the chuck body and... well, that's it. No more. I may have to make my own spanner wrench since I don't have one that would fit that. Perhaps I can weld some rod to a pair of slip joint pliers.

 

[Vegaman_Dan]

**SPRANG!** **POP**

Proof that a larger wrench, more penetrating oil, and a willingness to break it works.

I chucked an allen key in the chuck, put a pipe on the end of that to let it rotate to jam against the main column of the drill press. Pipe wrench on the collar, pull... pull... okay, let's go just a *little* bit more and- *SPRANG!*

Okay! It's off. And no damage. Defnitely needs to be cleaned up. I'll test the runout of the main shaft at the taper tomorrow. Disassemble the chuck itself, look for any damage or burrs, clean it up and reassemble. Let's see if this actually works.

Thanks for the suggestions and encouragement to go ahead and force the darn thing.

 

[wayne55]

Let us know how you came out. Was chuck ok after all? I was curious as I have a similar setup on a 13" Craftsman and I have never taken the chuck off either.

 

[Mandres]

I like that threaded-collar removal setup - that's a clever way to do it. I had to bang an old wrench between the frozen JT33 chuck and the shoulder on the spindle off my new-to-me press to pry it off. I should have just sprung for the wedges but I only paid $50 for the whole thing.

 

[liquidh8]

How did you make out. I have what I think is the same model drill press, and my chuck or spindle wobble also. I am going to take the chuck off first and have a look.

 

[Trey T]

can you show some photo of it apart? I have the same one that I'm restoring but I haven't gotten that far yet.

Anyone know a good website for ordering parts for these CM DP (i.e. bearing)?

 

[liquidh8]

I seen some parts on sears parts direct, but also M&M Tool Parts since alot of the craftsman stuff is black and decker.

 

[jsheahawk]

My apologies for resurrecting this thread, but it's the closest thing on the internet to what I'm looking for. I just bought an old Craftsman 113.21371. It had no visible runout, but the second scrap board I drilled on (8" diameter piece if 3/4 ply) bound, and it spun on the bit. Now I have some pretty pronounced visible runout at the bottom of the spindle with the chuck removed. Everything else feels tight, and I even pulled the quill and spindle assembly out to check it. The bearings seem good. I fear it's the spindle assembly.

So my question: Could spinning that piece of plywood bend the spindle?

Thanks,
Jared