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Craftsman 150 drill press bearing replacment

bubinga

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well, l posted this in another thread, but it seems to have vanished.
Just got done changing the bearings on a craftsman 150 drill press, that all went fine, I was able to find shielded type as opposed to sealed NTN bearings at ZORO for the pulley.
6205PP I think was the Old number in there.
But now I do notice a gap between the head casting and my quill feed hub.
I had not noticed before.
Anyone ever run into this problem before?
Also, has anyone ever found a replacement quill return spring for these 150's.
It looks more like a regular spring than a clock spring
# 55 in the drawing below.
Thank You.
 

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scw1991

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Delta/Rockwell used an extended inner race bearing made by Consolidated on their vintage machinery up until the mid 60's. Wondering if Craftsman used the same type of bearing design.

You might want to jump over to www.owwm.org to investigate further.
 
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bubinga

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Delta/Rockwell used an extended inner race bearing made by Consolidated on their vintage machinery up until the mid 60's. Wondering if Craftsman used the same type of bearing design.

You might want to jump over to www.owwm.org to investigate further.

Thanks Guys,
I have ran into those extended race bearings, So yes, l know what you mean.
Don't think it is the case on this drill press though.
My 6" jointer, 14" bandsaw and IIRC my 6X 48 belt sander all have those, all 3 Deltas.

Screw #39 secures the pinion into the head frame. It has a half-dog point. As long as that point mates correctly with the groove in the pinion shaft, you are good to go. The gap is not a problem.

Those half-dog points will often have a flat spot worn on them from use. Make sure that pinion groove is well lubed.

I have yet to find a source for replacements of those torsion springs.
Yeah, Its working OK, I will check it out better.
Actually, thinking about it now, I don't think it is in the grove, as I can pull the pinion out. I will go look at it.
Maybe the Half-dog point screw is loose?
 
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bubinga

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The spring was sticking out of the quill a tad, cause like l said when l 1st. got the press, it was broke, I had to reform it. I thought at first that was the problem, but actually The half-dog point screw # 39 was not nearly tight enough, I would tighten it, and it would lock the quill, so I would back it off a hair, but then the pinion would pull out.,,,,,,,,, WTH. Turns out, the pinion had to actually "live" that 1/8" out from the head casting, then I could tighten #39 ALL the way till it bottomed out on the head of the bolt and the casting head.
I took it all apart and drove the pin out of the pinion, and re formed the spring till it would ride all the way in the pinion.
And of course put it all back together lightly greasing everything, and greasing the grove for #39.
It's OK Now. I might make a spacer to fill that gap, or a nylon washer or something, Or I may just let it go. It doesn't really need it.
Thanks again.

EDIT...........LOL
I just saw your picture, Yeah, that was it, the bolt and washer were not tight up to the casting.
 
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bubinga

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Oh yeah, those bearing pressed on "Pretty nice" on the pulley shaft, but after the bottom one (closest to the pulley) was home, I could lift it a hair.
Just to be safe, I used a little bit of bearing retainer on the bottom (well closest to the pulley) bearing, and let it sit up over night.
Should be fine.
 
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bubinga

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Measure You bearings with a mic and give Lynn at accurate a call.
She is very helpful.
Give her the old numbers off your bearings, and the dimensions.
pro tip; If the bearings don't arrive in a timely amount of time,
Don't call every few days, and inquire about them.
She may call back and go off on you.
be patient.
 

beltfed72

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Apr 22, 2019
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Tucson
I have a Craftsman 150 that I got from my Grandfather and I was going to put new bearings in it for the spindle assembly. I noticed that when the bearings are on the spindle assembly and you go to install the assembly in the head, that the bearings don't sit tight in the head. I'm concerned that the bearings will free spin in the head. Should these bearings sit tight or need to be pushed into the head or do I need to use bearing retention on them so they won't spin? Any help would be appreciated. THanks!
 

marinusdees

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If the bearings are not tight, they'll spin. "Knurl" (Google it) the bearing seats with a center punch and it should make the bearings tight enough to not spin. If you do it this way as opposed to using Lok-tite it will be easier to dis assemble the gizmo, if this matters.
 
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bubinga

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If the bearings are not tight, they'll spin. "Knurl" (Google it) the bearing seats with a center punch and it should make the bearings tight enough to not spin. If you do it this way as opposed to using Lok-tite it will be easier to dis assemble the gizmo, if this matters.
That's a good Idea.
Could Knurl and also about 2 spots only of retaining compound.
If need be to remove bearing at a later date, A little heat would help.
For that matter, as long as the bearings are installed properly and are a quality bearing, I can't see where they would need to be changed anytime soon.
 
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LRV_Guy

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Aug 7, 2020
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Location
Massachusetts
I found all the replacement bearings I needed at Fremont Industrial Supply online.

Bught new Quill bearings for my Craftsman 150 for $5 each .
 

LRV_Guy

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Aug 7, 2020
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Location
Massachusetts
Now that I have made 5 posts- here are the photos of my completed Drill Press.

I did relocate the power switch to a new location with a heavy bracket- painted to match. I like the idea of the paddle to shut things off if something goes wrong.
 

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