I would guess the 3 belt design is going to get you way down in speed. I made a column pulley block for my atlas drill and can get it down to 100rpm.
Thanks... that's cool. Does the motor have a double shaft? I'm still trying to figure out how it works.
Thanks... that's cool. Does the motor have a double shaft? I'm still trying to figure out how it works. Is there a patent number on the unit somewhere?
Edit:
Here's the patent, I believe:
https://www.google.com/patents/US25...a=X&ei=SU3nVI6JG8i5ggSc0YLQBw&ved=0CCsQ6AEwAg
After reading the patent some and studying the drawing, it looks like the top pulley is free-spinning on the top motor shaft. The side shaft is being driven by the bottom motor pulley. It's an interesting design that adds one more reduction than the Craftsman Slo-Speed pulley.
After reading the patent some and studying the drawing, it looks like the top pulley is free-spinning on the top motor shaft. The side shaft is being driven by the bottom motor pulley. It's an interesting design that adds one more reduction than the Craftsman Slo-Speed pulley.
Yeah... pretty much, but not only DPs.
The first DP I bought was amazing and full of options; it's a keeper. The second was a parts machine for the first and a part-out. The third was a restoration and a keeper. Forth, fifth, sixth, and eighth were flips. Seventh may be a keeper. Nineth was a part-out. Tenth and eleventh are sitting in my basement waiting for clean-up and flip. They are getting harder to find. LOL!
It depends mainly on the purchase price and whether the DP has options. For example, that Slo-Speed pulley you have is worth over $200 on ebay.
Also, the sum of the parts is worth way more than the whole. I do not generally like to part-out a drill press, but it is very lucrative. Another example... my DP #9. It was a nice running machine, but it looked like ****. I could not sell it for $50 on craigslist, but I parted it out for about $130 and I still have some parts.
As you are finding out, restoration is only worth it if you're going to keep it.
So, if you have three of these DPs, two 100s, and one 150, you are starting to discover the differences between the different models.
Do both of your 100s have a 67" column? I'm trying to determine when the 62" column was introduced. I think it was with the 150s.
Which 150 do you have? The early one with the external spring tension knob, or the later one with the internal spring attachment?
So, if you have three of these DPs, two 100s, and one 150, you are starting to discover the differences between the different models.
Do both of your 100s have a 67" column? I'm trying to determine when the 62" column was introduced. I think it was with the 150s.
Which 150 do you have? The early one with the external spring tension knob, or the later one with the internal spring attachment?
Perhaps the shorter column was introduced at the same time the tilt table was dropped late in the 100 series run. All 3 of my 100 floor models had the 67" column. Interesting.
Accurate Bearing, and yes, part numbers are documented in posts #32 and #84 in my drill press thread below.
I replaced bearings during my #3 drill press restore. I bought sealed bearings for both the pulley bearings and the quill bearings. In hindsight, I would have bought shielded bearings for the pulley.
I need to write-up a bearing post.
Perhaps the shorter column was introduced at the same time the tilt table was dropped late in the 100 series run. All 3 of my 100 floor models had the 67" column. Interesting.

I've found the column ODs to be very consistent. I've probably switched at least six and even swapped a 33" for a 62" and then a 67" with a friend.
First the obvious question... on your 150, did you check the other end of the column for the reamed ID? Maybe it was installed upside down. ....
Awesome! That was an easy fix then.
That's another topic where I have pictures somewhere and intended to post.
When removing the chuck, I prefer to have the spindle assembly removed from the head frame. I chuck-up a large allen wrench; short side in the chuck. Then, the long side clamped in a vise with the spindle vertical. I use my woodworking vise.
I have a small pin spanner that fits into a hole on the chuck collar and just crank it off. I've also use old drill bits that fit into the collar holes. I'm still pondering a better solution. My pin spanner is really too small and it frequently slips off the chuck.
Sometimes I'll use a couple flat-washers as spacers between the threaded collar and the chuck. It often takes some effort to get these off.
I even used a pipe wrench once, but don't recommend it.
I'm also currently restoring a small old Atlas #00 arbor press so I can disassemble/reassemble these chucks.