Pretty tough crowd here. Never in a million years would I have thought this would be the outcome of a review thread. This is a review thread and my experience. I think some that have commented may want to actually READ the ENTIRE post and thread itself.
For the record...I did NOT use the Pry Bars with a Hammer for cutting the Sleeves out of the Subframe. I used the Pry Bars to pry out the Inner Sleeve AFTER releasing the Inner Sleeve from the Rubber by cutting from the top and bottom with a Hole Saw. The larger Rubber part right about the center of the Sleeve is larger than even the holes I cut with the Hole Saw. The Pry Bars were used ONLY to coax and PRY the Inner Sleeve out of the rest of the Bushing itself.
I stated that I have an Air Hammer but I chose not to use it as the COLD CHISEL that I was using to CUT the OUTER SLEEVES out was doing just fine with a regular Hammer and with little effort I may add due to the softness of the Outer Sleeves. I did not use the Pry Bar to try and cut through the Outer Sleeves as that is not what the Pry Bar is designed for. I used the Pry Bars for PRYING not for cutting. The reason for not using an Air Hammer for cutting the Sleeves is due to there being a Shelf or Ledge at the bottom of the Subframe that lets the Bushing bottom out to tell when it is pressed in all the way from the factory. This Shelf or Ledge is not supposed to be damaged and kept in tact for the New Bushings to sit properly. With an Air Hammer you can not feel when you hit this Shelf or Ledge. By Hand Hammering you can feel when you are at the bottom and you can feel when you need to stop as to not damage the Shelf or Ledge at the bottom of the Cup. This is why you can not use a Press in any manner to remove the old Bushings. The Shelf or Ledge on the bottom of the Cup does not allow you to even get at the Sleeves to have something to press against to remove the Bushing as a whole. You must cut them out piece by piece. The first order of business is to remove the Inner Sleeve. You can not remove the Inner Sleeve without first releasing it from the Grease Filled, Sealed Bushing by first using a Hole Saw to release the Inner Sleeve from the rest of the Bushing. After releasing the Bushing you can PRY it out. This is what I used the Pry Bars for. NOT TO CUT THE OUTER SLEEVES!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I would post a link to the ENTIRE project but I don't think that will help as people commenting (or some) are not even attempting to read what I posted in the first place here. Most have lacked even giving me the benefit of doubt that I am not a complete and total *****. That is fine with me. Do not be so quick to judge though as I have never even met anyone in person on this Forum except for my neighbor a few doors down.
Please take the time to re-read the thread if you are going to comment in a negative way about my practices in removing the Outer Sleeves with a Cold Chisel. You can not get at the bottom of the Sleeves due to the Shelf or Ledge obstructing the bottom of the Sleeve. The only way to remove the Outer Sleeves is to cut them from the top until you hit the Shelf and stop. The Cold Chisels I showed were SOLELY to provide the PROOF that I was NOT using the damn Pry Bar as a Cutting Tool. The Cold Chisel that I posted doing the cutting of the Outer Sleeves was merely to show that there was not even a hint of damage to the Cutting Tool that has been in use for MANY years cutting through MANY different Metals. After merely prying out 4 Inner Sleeves mostly coated in Rubber the Tools that I made this thread about were damaged pretty badly considering coming from brand new.
I KNOW that I can redress the Tips of the Pry Bars as this is not my first Rodeo. Come on guys. I am not saying that they are useless. I am not saying they are not worth $20. I am questioning the quality of an American Made Tool advertised doing a more than exemplary job and not cutting the mustard. Am I going to have to do this after every single (what I consider) light duty use? I might and that is where my complaint about the quality of the Tools come into play. Of course they are not going to stand up to my Snap-On Pry Bars. I am not saying they should. I am saying that this seems to be pretty premature wear for the first time use of a product that is held so highly from most of the comments about these particular Pry Bars on this Forum.
On this Forum these Pry Bars have been the "**** of the walk" as far as price to product ratio. I am saying I am displeased with the outcome of the first use. I call them **** because the Steel used IS ****. If it were quality Steel and hardened as advertised then the outcome would have been different. MUCH different.
If ANY that commented saying that I am just using the Pry Bar wrong or whatever I hope that when you go to actually use this same set of Pry Bars they do not hold up to your standards. Then you will see where I am standing. Not that I wish crappy Tools on anyone but it seems to be hard to open closed eyes.
This set of Pry Bars IS going back to Sears. I will swap them out and try again. One reason why I buy (or used to buy) Sears Tools. If I am not satisfied they can be returned for new or refunded. Who knows...Maybe this set just did not make it through the hardening process. The purpose of this thread was to warn/inform people of my experience with the Tool. If I get another set I will use them also. If the outcome is the same then my thread will be validated in my own eyes and you are free to have your opinion on your particular set of Pry Bars. On THIS particular set of Pry Bars the Steel is sub par to say the least.
Jhhhheeeeeeeeeeesh....
