craftsman 6hp 30gallon compressor not compressing anymore

[exibar]

So I have this craftsman 6hp 30gal 135psi compressor I bought back in like 2000 or so time frame.
She's not chooching anymore, max's out at about 30psi and just keeps on running never building more pressure.

I'm torn whether I should rebuild the compressor piston as that's the most likely culpret, or buy a new harbor freight fortress 27 gall this Wed when they have their 20% off compressor sale for inside track members....

I've drained it a couple times, never had any water come out...

pics attached... thoughts??

thanks!
Mike B

 

[The Cobbler]

could be piston ring & cylinder, could be leaks at connections.
I would start by spraying soapy water on all connections . if they are all good, it's likely the ring & cylinder . they are quite inexpensive aftermarket , but you will get a lot of people saying to replace it. if it suited my needs I would repair it .

 

[exibar]

could be piston ring & cylinder, could be leaks at connections.
I would start by spraying soapy water on all connections . if they are all good, it's likely the ring & cylinder . they are quite inexpensive aftermarket , but you will get a lot of people saying to replace it. if it suited my needs I would repair it .

amazon had a kit for $10... will be in tomorrow, $10 is way cheaper than $399 ;-) ever re-certify a tank? This one is at least 25 years old...

 

[marinusdees]

So I have this craftsman 6hp 30gal 135psi compressor I bought back in like 2000 or so time frame.
She's not chooching anymore, max's out at about 30psi and just keeps on running never building more pressure.

I'm torn whether I should rebuild the compressor piston as that's the most likely culpret, or buy a new harbor freight fortress 27 gall this Wed when they have their 20% off compressor sale for inside track members....

I've drained it a couple times, never had any water come out...

pics attached... thoughts??fg

thanks!
Mike B

Oiless compressors have a finite life. The Teflon ring sacrifices it self to the brass cylinder liner. You can repair them. Personally, I'd bite the bullet and buy a "real" (read, oil lubed) compressor. One that the motor is not fraudently rated at 6 hp. A "real" 6 hp motor uses about 30 amps. Read the nametag, if there is one. That is closer to a 3 (maybe) hp. On the other hand, 25 years may be acceptable to you. If so, buy another airless and put up with the noiser and heat.

 

[exibar]

Oiless compressors have a finite life. The Teflon ring sacrifices it self to the brass cylinder liner. You can repair them. Personally, I'd bite the bullet and buy a "real" (read, oil lubed) compressor. One that the motor is not fraudently rated at 6 hp. A "real" 6 hp motor uses about 30 amps. Read the nametag, if there is one. That is closer to a 3 (maybe) hp. On the other hand, 25 years may be acceptable to you. If so, buy another airless and put up with the noiser and heat.

yah, I get that there are consumable items, such as the ring(s)...
I have a kit coming in to repair it.
I don't care if it's labeled 65HP honestly, there was an issue with these labels back in the early 2000's where they changed the labels...again, don't care.
Oil less is more than fine, this one lasted a good 25 years, and it only needs a $10 repair. Why would that NOT be acceptable to anyone?

What heat? the minor warming of the airlines going from the compressor to the tank? they ALL will warm up, LOL
What I do care about is the CFM at 90.. this has 6.4CFM
I do care about the tank size, this has 30gallons
I do care about tank life, and if it's safe to repair to keep going for another 10 - 20 years?
I do care that the motor itself is still going as strong as ever even after 25 years of daily usage.

 

[Schurkey]

Every "Oil free" or "Oilless" compressor I've ever heard sounds like a 55 gallon drum with ten gallons of rocks inside, rolling downhill.

They'd drive me crazy (crazier?).

And, yeah, fraudulently-rated horsepower. Dirtbags.

When my compressor didn't pump properly, it was a broken sealing ring around a valve, not pistons/rings.

 

[exibar]

Every "Oil free" or "Oilless" compressor I've ever heard sounds like a 55 gallon drum with ten gallons of rocks inside, rolling downhill.

They'd drive me crazy (crazier?).

And, yeah, fraudulently-rated horsepower. Dirtbags.

When my compressor didn't pump properly, it was a broken sealing ring around a valve, not pistons/rings.

agreed, she's not the quietest girl in the house, that's for sure ;-) But if I can get away with spending $11 for a kit, instead of $399 for a new compressor, I'll take that $11 deal I'm just wondering how concerned y'all would be about the tank... the date on the tank is 2001 as seen in the picture.

 

[exibar]

well, just pulled it apart to see what I could see... found the broken piece ;-)
one of the small reeds that allows air into the tank broke... there are three petals to it and one petal broke off...

 

[The Cobbler]

usually the first signs of tank issues is pinhole leaks , that's the time to get rid of it. vertical compressors don;t seem to be as bad as horizontal tanks, the end bells are thicker

 

[The Cobbler]

well, just pulled it apart to see what I could see...

that's not good. I think they are available. I am working on a compressor that is probably the same as yours. looks the same reeds anyway. mine needs a cylinder & piston ring.

 

[The Cobbler]

you want part # Z-AC-0032 I think . lots available aftermarket

 

[exibar]

you want part # Z-AC-0032 I think . lots available aftermarket

yes thank you! I looked it up on the sears parts website, of course discontinued... then flipped over to Amazon and they'll arrive in the morning ;-) thank you thank you!

 

[exibar]

that's not good. I think they are available. I am working on a compressor that is probably the same as yours. looks the same reeds anyway. mine needs a cylinder & piston ring.

amazon has them, get it tomorrow with prime ;-)

 

[LSU]

Someone mentioned recertification of the tank.

I have the same or very similar air compressor. I probably use it 7 times a month.

I drain the tank when I remember. I know I should drain it more frequently.

How do I get my tank re-certified?

 

[The Cobbler]

How do I get my tank re-certified?

for consumer grade tanks I'm guessing to get it professionally done is probably more than a new tank . people on here have pressure tested them with water to a higher pressure than the max pressure on the tag.something like 1.5 times thee tank rating I think. That's reasonable assurance that your tank is safe and by using water you don't have the potential energy that compressed air does.

 

[Schurkey]

Tanks that RUST are not especially dangerous, because they LEAK air.

Tanks that get OVER-PRESSURIZED can be dangerous, because they explode.

Everyone is worried about the tank exploding, and there's various videos on Youtube...but most tanks would fail based on pinholes bleeding air.

 

[exibar]

Someone mentioned recertification of the tank.

I have the same or very similar air compressor. I probably use it 7 times a month.

I drain the tank when I remember. I know I should drain it more frequently.

How do I get my tank re-certified?

there are automatic drain kits that you can buy. Harbor freight used to have one but I can't find it now.

 

[exibar]

my tank is certified up to 150psi according to the tag. the max pressure before the cutoff is 135... 15psi doesn't seem like much wiggle room....

 

[exibar]

Someone mentioned recertification of the tank.

I have the same or very similar air compressor. I probably use it 7 times a month.

I drain the tank when I remember. I know I should drain it more frequently.

How do I get my tank re-certified?

I'm reading more and more about the tanks... and I'm much more comfortable about my tank, and yah I've seen costs from zero up to hundreds of dollars... might as well just get a new one at that point and a new one will be a chinesium metal instead of a good old USA metal tank... I'll stick with mine I think for a while

 

[The Cobbler]

amazon has them, get it tomorrow with prime ;-)

well?

 

[seber]

Oiless compressors have a finite life. The Teflon ring sacrifices it self to the brass cylinder liner. You can repair them. Personally, I'd bite the bullet and buy a "real" (read, oil lubed) compressor. One that the motor is not fraudently rated at 6 hp. A "real" 6 hp motor uses about 30 amps. Read the nametag, if there is one. That is closer to a 3 (maybe) hp. On the other hand, 25 years may be acceptable to you. If so, buy another airless and put up with the noiser and heat.

15 Amps at 120 volts is two horse.

 

[AC-WC]

there are automatic drain kits that you can buy. Harbor freight used to have one but I can't find it now.

I bought the HF one years ago and can tell you DON'T if it gets back in stock. I keep my air compressor in the loft of my garage and thought it would be really helpful instead of me getting a ladder and draining by hand. It NEVER worked. I put the old drain valve back in. I need to get a 90 elbow attached to the bottom and then a hose with a air gun or valve on it and get the water out that way.

 

[Schurkey]

Or just buy a cable-operated manual drain valve, and yank the cord now and then. There's multiple thread sizes to suit whatever you might be working on. Typically under twenty dollars, simple and reliable.

Example:

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/GRO810128

 

[exibar]

well?

LOL
Yes, I put in the new reed valve... and she chooches perfectly once again
I didn't replace the full valve plate, as the cylinder wall tube was on the old one REALLY well, so I just swapped reeds and voila! Works like her old self again I have the new parts as spare incase anything goes wonky in the future too ;-)

thanks for the help dude!