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Craftsman block grinder clean-up and switch repair.

Michael_PE2003

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Joined
Jan 8, 2022
Messages
101
Location
Cleveland, Ohio
I posted my recent purchase to the block grinder thread but decided to post here as well, mostly to show the switch (PN 4984992) repair as I searched for similar repairs but only found one, and in that one the picture links were broken. Hopefully this will help somebody with a similar issue in the future.

I'm only going to show photos and provide an overall description for most of it as there are plenty of restoration threads on here already. I will show the wiring and switch repair in greater detail as that's the real meat and potatoes here. My apologies if this is well covered somewhere else that my search didn't find and, worst case, here's another look at the switch guts.

I recently purchased this 397.19340 1/2 HP block grinder to (finally) replace my cheap Chinese, underpowered (yeah, I know that's redundant) 1/4 HP grinder. I found this one on FBM at a good price, not too far away and what appeared to be in complete and very good shape. This is the photo from the ad...

1745092781169.jpeg

When I got it home and started taking it apart, it was in almost unused condition! The nice lady who sold it to me said it was her fathers and when he passed, her husband took it but never used it. The husband recently retired, and they were moving to Florida, so it was time to start selling stuff off. It looks to me like her father was a woodworker as that's most of what they were selling of his and there was a coating of sawdust in all the grinders nooks and crannies.

It seemed the only thing it needed was a little clean-up and some fresh grease to the bearings. (although they felt very good, not at all like 50-year-old grease, one spun a little freely.) I figured a couple of shots of new grease couldn't hurt. I did find a couple of assembly errors though. The part rests were swapped left to right, so they were at a too steep angle to the wheels, both eye shields were upside down and the washers on the left-hand wheel were swapped, which made getting the inner one off a real pain and the outer one was too loose. All easily remedied during reassembly.

The one thing I did notice was the on/off switch didn't feel right, it worked but seemed stiff. I didn't think much about it as it DID work when testing at the seller's house and one time at home. When it came time to reinstall it, it still seemed awfully stiff, so I checked the resistance, and it definitely had issues. It only made contact about fifty percent of the time and would make and break by wiggling the switch. Here is the patient in question...

1745093835969.jpeg

And a picture of the wiring should anybody need it in the future.


1745093895992.jpeg

Next up, it's time for switch surgery...
 
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Michael_PE2003

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Location
Cleveland, Ohio
First step is to get the switch open. I stuck a small screwdriver under the clip on one end and pried between the front bezel and the body of the switch with a small pocketknife blade. In the picture, it's just starting to pop free. I only pried it on one end as it's easier to tilt it out than try and get both ends free and pull straight out. This is also the easiest way to reassemble and keep the paddle in position.

1745101313532.jpeg

Once open, there was some "grease" inside that seems to have been the root of the problem. It had the consistency of little blobs of Gummi Bear! I've never found grease that had this consistency, almost like old pine sap. No picture, but it cleaned up well using mineral spirits and a toothbrush. Once cleaned up, this is what's inside.

1745101495707.jpeg

The plunger and spring go into the boss in the end of the paddle, be careful not to lose the spring. I polished up the four contact points, two on the brass/copper "rocker" part that the plunger pushes on, and two matching contacts in the body. I used automotive polishing compound, which did a nice job and removed next to no material. I also polished the surface the plunger rides against. (on the bottom side of the rocker in the picture) I then put silicone grease on the plunger and spring to keep them in place while assembling, and on the two paddle pivots and the notches in the body. It's a little fiddly snapping the bezel into the body while keeping the paddle in place, but not too bad.

It now snaps nicely on and off, it feels about ten times better than when I started and moves MUCH easier. I then checked the resistance, and it now "makes" every time with zero ohms resistance and wiggling the paddle makes no difference. Success, and total cost ZERO dollars and ZERO cents and about a half hours' time.

I hope this helps someone bring their switch back from impending failure like mine was.
 
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Michael_PE2003

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Cleveland, Ohio
The final step wasn't really NECESSARY, but it did make me FEEEEL better. (I don't FEEEEL tardy...) The clips on the bezel didn't hold the switch firmly in place, it would shift a little left and right when turning it on and off. It just bugged me and made it feel cheap. (which it is) So I used some drill bits as pin gages to determine how big to make a tightening "pin" to expand the clips and hold the switch firmly in place, mine needed just a little over 3/32". I took a piece of 1/8" drill rod and turned the body down to 0.096/0.098" with a 1/8" head on it to keep it from falling out once installed. I think these are the smallest things I've ever made on my lathe, tiny little buggers

1745102866770.jpeg

These were installed between the clips and body from the top and now the switch doesn't move at all when flipping it off (hmmm, that doesn't sound very nice) and on. Sorry, couldn't resist...

1745102990803.jpeg
 
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Michael_PE2003

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Jan 8, 2022
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101
Location
Cleveland, Ohio
I believe the wheels are the original 36 and 60 grit wheels that came with the grinder. They definitely look the part and the shoulders are still nice and square, so they are barely used.

1745103309525.jpeg

I got everything put back together, even the rubber feet are still in good shape, and it runs very smooth and looks soooo nice smiling up at me from the top of my bench. Should be good for another 50 years or so with a little grease to the bearings every 10-20 years.

1745103457216.jpeg

The 60-grit wheel has about a 3-4" long gouge in the center which I will use a single point diamond (in the foreground of the picture) to dress it down and true up both wheels before putting it into service.

Thanks to all the "blockers" on here (no, NOT "block heads", that's unkind) for putting me on to these things, I'm a fan for sure.
 
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Michael_PE2003

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101
Location
Cleveland, Ohio
I rang both of them before putting them on and the blotters are in good shape. Is there more to it than that?

I already turned the grinder on (I never stand in front as a rule) and they run well but haven't ground with them yet and I won't until I true them up.
 
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Michael_PE2003

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Cleveland, Ohio
Thanks for the links lmg.

The first link refers to resin bond wheels which do age, it does mention that vitrified wheels don't have an infinite life but doesn't give any guidelines.

I did find this on the Unified Abrasive Manufacturers Association (UAMA) website regarding wheel shelf life.

"a) Vitrified bonded grinding wheels
It is generally known in the industry that under ideal storage conditions, a vitrified bonded grinding wheel has an almost infinite shelf life. However, the opportunity for damaging a wheel in storage increases with time and it is therefore recommended that stock be rotated to use the oldest wheels first. Any recommended shelf life provided by an individual manufacturer will supersede this recommendation."

I used to work at a CNC grinder manufacturer (Drake Manuf. in Warren, OH) and the biggest issue we saw with vitrified was impact (either dropping or striking), not using a blotter and crushing the surface grains (ALWAYS use a blotter) and letting them get wet and freeze, which can crack them as the ice expands. I've only seen that one when they get waterlogged, like dripping wet sitting in water on the floor and then freezing.

The second looks like generic "keep safe" type language.

All good info, it's easy to forget how dangerous grinders can be.
 
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lmg

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Mar 17, 2023
Messages
96
Thanks for that Michael.

I guess I need to know how to identify a vitrified bonded wheel.
 
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Michael_PE2003

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No problem, I've never seen a bench grinder wheel that wasn't a vitrified wheel. They may exist but I've never seen it. If you look in the picture above, it says it on the blotter/label. They have the typical open grained, porous appearance, kind of like lava rock. Resin and rubber bond wheels don't have all the pores and can't be used on a bench grinder. They require flood coolant to keep from burning the workpiece.
 

lmg

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Joined
Mar 17, 2023
Messages
96
No problem, I've never seen a bench grinder wheel that wasn't a vitrified wheel. They may exist but I've never seen it. If you look in the picture above, it says it on the blotter/label. They have the typical open grained, porous appearance, kind of like lava rock. Resin and rubber bond wheels don't have all the pores and can't be used on a bench grinder. They require flood coolant to keep from burning the workpiece.
Thank you. I have some dating to the 70s I have to look at.
 

Davefr

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Joined
Jan 7, 2010
Messages
11,833
Location
OR
First step is to get the switch open. I stuck a small screwdriver under the clip on one end and pried between the front bezel and the body of the switch with a small pocketknife blade. In the picture, it's just starting to pop free. I only pried it on one end as it's easier to tilt it out than try and get both ends free and pull straight out. This is also the easiest way to reassemble and keep the paddle in position.

1745101313532.jpeg

Once open, there was some "grease" inside that seems to have been the root of the problem. It had the consistency of little blobs of Gummi Bear! I've never found grease that had this consistency, almost like old pine sap. No picture, but it cleaned up well using mineral spirits and a toothbrush. Once cleaned up, this is what's inside.

1745101495707.jpeg

The plunger and spring go into the boss in the end of the paddle, be careful not to lose the spring. I polished up the four contact points, two on the brass/copper "rocker" part that the plunger pushes on, and two matching contacts in the body. I used automotive polishing compound, which did a nice job and removed next to no material. I also polished the surface the plunger rides against. (on the bottom side of the rocker in the picture) I then put silicone grease on the plunger and spring to keep them in place while assembling, and on the two paddle pivots and the notches in the body. It's a little fiddly snapping the bezel into the body while keeping the paddle in place, but not too bad.

It now snaps nicely on and off, it feels about ten times better than when I started and moves MUCH easier. I then checked the resistance, and it now "makes" every time with zero ohms resistance and wiggling the paddle makes no difference. Success, and total cost ZERO dollars and ZERO cents and about a half hours' time.

I hope this helps someone bring their switch back from impending failure like mine was.
That's a great switch restoration. In the future one thing that might be worth a try prior to full disassembly would be to squirt a product called DeOxit into the switch. It does a great job at rejuvinating old switches/controls in vintage electronic equipment.
 

larry4406

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Joined
Jan 27, 2006
Messages
19,256
Location
Northern Virginia
I recall a Mopar site where a guy used ketchup of all things and a brass brush to restore contacts on a power window switch. Thought I had a picture saved. Did an amazing job!
 

dcr83

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Joined
Aug 21, 2025
Messages
5
Any idea on what to do with this switch? Only have the base. What replacement switches will fit and work?
 

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Michael_PE2003

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Cleveland, Ohio
Not really. The one on this grinder is the only one I have so I didn't have to research a replacement. I expect some searching will turn up some info from others who had similar switch issues. Maybe "block grinder switch" will turn up some leads. Good luck, I'm sure something will work out or somebody will chime in.
 

Banjorear

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Jul 22, 2013
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Location
Essex Co., NJ
I just replaced mine. Looking at the OP's post, I bet the only thing wrong was the spring & pin broke. Sadly, I threw it away.

I used this Carling switch.


I added a two legged connector to the hot side for the light. Worked out great.
 

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searman

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Dec 14, 2022
Messages
47
@Michael_PE2003 what did you use to clean up the metal body? I acquired the similar 397.19430 1/2 HP block grinder at an estate sale. Novus 2 & 3 plastic polish followed by Plexus worked wonders on the lamp shade plastic cover and the eyeshields. However, the outside has years of dust and crud and I want to get it cleaned up to give to my dad for Christmas. I tried CLP and Mothers polish for the metal, but neither made much of a dent in the crud.
i-xjNTCSc-M.jpg

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Michael_PE2003

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Jan 8, 2022
Messages
101
Location
Cleveland, Ohio
I started with soap and water, then simple green on the harder stuff. There was still some stuff, like pine tar, left so I used mineral spirits to get that off using a q-tip. Careful around the serial number, the mineral spirits started to dissolve the ink.
 

searman

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Dec 14, 2022
Messages
47
@Michael_PE2003 I like Simple Green and keep several bottles around the house. But I didn't know it could clean metal like this. To use a British term, I am gobsmacked! I've got to order some Norton wheels and a dressing stick, but this is nearly ready to be an early Christmas gift. Thanks for the recommendation
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