Hey guys, when I was taking it apart and unplugging the leads from the rear of the switch this pin few out. Any ideas how to fix this or what that little copper pin may be called and if it can be ordered somewhere (I doubt it.)? Are these flat paddle switches still available somewhere? I really don't want to replace it with anything else as it's so clean in it's factory form! Thanks. -John
Craftsman Block Grinder Switch fix?
- Thread starter jransom
- Start date
mattblast
Well-known member
I've fixed this sort of damage with a 6-32 brass screw and nut. Put screw through from inside and secure terminal with not then you can clip end of screw and peen it over with hammer.
That's assuming there is clearance from the inside.
That's assuming there is clearance from the inside.
454ragtop
Well-known member
I'd be looking for another switch myself, not saying it can't be fixed, just thinking about future reliability. Might try sears, who knows, or get some numbers off the switch and use your google fu.
McBrownie
Well-known member
JR,
I posted this same thing over on the block grinder thread.
Most of these switches are snap together assemblies with springs and contacts and grease. A few little pieces that can be difficult, but definitely not impossible, to disassemble and reassemble. That switch housing may be a thermoset material which was brittle when it was new. Imagine how it is now. My point is that if you try to reset that rivet, you will most likely crack the housing. I would look at still using the rivet, but solder it back onto the contact instead of using any force. Grab a pair of tweezers and/or a small screw driver, take your time, and you should be fine.
I posted this same thing over on the block grinder thread.
Most of these switches are snap together assemblies with springs and contacts and grease. A few little pieces that can be difficult, but definitely not impossible, to disassemble and reassemble. That switch housing may be a thermoset material which was brittle when it was new. Imagine how it is now. My point is that if you try to reset that rivet, you will most likely crack the housing. I would look at still using the rivet, but solder it back onto the contact instead of using any force. Grab a pair of tweezers and/or a small screw driver, take your time, and you should be fine.
torqueman2002
Well-known member
You might be able to use a piggyback terminal or the like, on the other side. I did a quick search and came up with these, not sure if the terminal blade size will fit yours.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0071NCE8K/?tag=atomicindus08-20
More, here.
http://www.digikey.com/product-search/compare/en?returnUrl=%2Fproduct-search%2Fen%3Fpv166%3D675%26pv166%3D676%26pv166%3D677%26pv166%3D743%26FV%3Dfff40016%252Cfff8043e%26mnonly%3D0%26newproducts%3D0%26ColumnSort%3D0%26page%3D1%26quantity%3D0%26ptm%3D0%26fid%3D0%26pageSize%3D500&part=A27890-ND&part=726308-1-ND&part=WM7273-ND&part=920082-02-ND&part=A27891-ND&part=D-250A-M-ND&part=D-250A-C-ND&part=920082-01-ND
Last edited:
You might be able to use a piggyback terminal or the like, on the other side. I did a quick search and came up with these, not sure if the terminal blade size will fit yours.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0071NCE8K/?tag=atomicindus08-20
More, here.
http://www.digikey.com/product-search/compare/en?returnUrl=%2Fproduct-search%2Fen%3Fpv166%3D675%26pv166%3D676%26pv166%3D677%26pv166%3D743%26FV%3Dfff40016%252Cfff8043e%26mnonly%3D0%26newproducts%3D0%26ColumnSort%3D0%26page%3D1%26quantity%3D0%26ptm%3D0%26fid%3D0%26pageSize%3D500&part=A27890-ND&part=726308-1-ND&part=WM7273-ND&part=920082-02-ND&part=A27891-ND&part=D-250A-M-ND&part=D-250A-C-ND&part=920082-01-ND
Hey This is great man. I'll check them out tomorrow. Thanks.
Well, now I feel like an idiot. As I was looking at some photos of the inside of this grinder last night while reassembling it I noticed that this lead for the lamp was actually piggybacked on top of the other one with the copper pin in the middle. I guess I just need to try to press it back on and give the head of that pin a tap or two and see if it will hold. Here's that picture so you can see what I mean...
Attachments
McBrownie
Well-known member
Take it from someone who has been there and done that and use solder. I used to work in the switch business and we broke them all of the time. They are brittle.