Craftsman DP restoration-Help w/ bent spindle?

[liquidobsession]

New guy here with my first official vintage restoration. Bought this Craftsman DP for $50. I believe it's a 1937 model 101.03580 although there is no badge on it to confirm.

(reference used)
http://vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=1530

Everything is in great condition including bearings however when doing a runout test on the spindle I discovered that the taper is bent. When I pulled it apart and measured the entire spindle it appears it's only the taper that's bent.

Being I'm a complete newbie at this restoration thing and a beginner at machining (self teaching)... what are my options? I've gone online and seen the heat bending technique... and by the way I don't have deep pockets to send out to a machine shop. Local shop in Sacramento, ca wants $80/hr to "look at it".

So... I've got a few questions:
1- would heat bending work in my case where there's only an inch or so at the tip that's bent?
2- I only have access to mapp gas... will that even be hot enough to bend it back?
3- hope and pray a spindle shows up on eBay?
3- should I walk away and let a pro do it?

Any help or info appreciated.

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[Larryjones]

How much is it bent? A few judgmental taps>blows with a hammer can fix a lot of alignment problems. But looking at your spindle, those burrs will cause runout too.

 

[larry_g]

How much is it bent? A few judgmental taps>blows with a hammer can fix a lot of alignment problems. But looking at your spindle, those burrs will cause runout too.

I second the above. I would first reassemble the machine and spin the spindle while using an abrasive STONE to smooth off the high points where the galling is. Your stoning to remove only the high point, not trying to remove all the low spots. Once you have a smooth surface then measure the runout with an indicator with a fairly large tip that will ride over the grooves. Mark the high spot then tap it with a lead or copper hammer as to not mar the surface.

On one I had I was able to chuck it up in the lathe and cut a new taper. Perty easy to do if you have a friend with a lathe.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[liquidobsession]

Thanks, I'll give that idea a shot.

Am I hitting it while still in the DP or on v-blocks? Seems like a solid blow would be an issue for the bearings wouldn't it?
Also, how hard of a hit are we talking here? I've got a small brass hammer (used for shaping)... would I give it one hard blow or multiple med taps?


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[crguy]

Buy another spindle off Ebay.

 

[larry_g]

Thanks, I'll give that idea a shot.

Am I hitting it while still in the DP or on v-blocks? Seems like a solid blow would be an issue for the bearings wouldn't it?
Also, how hard of a hit are we talking here? I've got a small brass hammer (used for shaping)... would I give it one hard blow or multiple med taps?


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If you have V blocks and a way to hold the shaft firmly in the block then that would be the way to go. The thing with the V blocks is to get the bend in the shaft located and get it to bend back at the same spot. As far as to how hard to hit it, Start with lighter taps and work up as the indicator tell you. You want to sneak up on straight, not bash it and hope. When your indicator tells you things are moving then you know how hard to hit it.

I think we are all assuming that you have indicated on the shave directly and not on a rod held in the chuck that is on the spindle. A couple of thousands runout is to be expected on these consumer machines. Do you have an indicator your measuring with?

lg
no neat sig line

 

[liquidobsession]

Yep. Removed it and measured runout on blocks. Bend is right at the pin hole (finger pointing at it in photo above).


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[liquidobsession]

Oops, excuse me... bend is where my top finger is pointing in the last photo.


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