I have no part number but I'm guessing from the '80s. Anybody have an idea who would have built this for Sears/Craftsman ? I know one of you guys call rattle it off.
Craftsman Drill Press maker
- Thread starter NUTTSGT
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gleman
Well-known member
Emerson, that DP looks to be in great shape too!
OP
Yes, a little surface rust and missing a crank handle.
About a 3 hour road trip for me. I'd like to find out more before I consider making the drive.
FrankLee
Well-known member
I have no experience with that model, but I believe it's an import. 
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OP
Well, at this point of not losing it, I pretty much made a deal on it. If it's the same as the current smaller Cman DP I already have, just a larger version, I should be okay.
My google fu found this here on GJ. Looks the same & according to the thread, 113 - Emerson.
OP
That's the plan, I'll do the same thing for cleaning up as I did on the smaller DP and it will be ready to rock.
I think I have some LED bulbs in the garage, if not, a stop by Menards to get some bulbs and scuff pads for the grinder will happen.
OP
I just looked up the handle. If you don't care about being original, they should be easy to find. Searching "revolving handle" should yield better search results.
OP
I'm not worried about it being original in the least bit. I'll take the functional ability over that any day.
I think I can rob a handle off the old horizontal bandsaw. .. maybe the round crank handle ?
We'll get it home and see what we can come up with.
Yep that may work, if same thread of course.
Generic replacements should be cheap. Or if you have a lathe, not too hard to make. The internal part is basically a shoulder bolt. But these are so cheap that I wouldn't even bother spending the time making one, I'd just buy one if I had to.
aquinob
Well-known member
Thats a decent press, Emerson would be my guess too. Taiwanese made. 20" so it will be on the heavy side. If you lower the table and the head it should be a little easier to move, less top heavy.
I'm not so sure that the motor is really 2hp. That was from the time when sears uprated everything hp-wise. If you can take a pic of the motor tag with the amps that will tell you what it really is. A scotchbrite pad should clean up most of the surface rust and your rust inhibitor of choice shoud help to keep it down over time. Good luck with it.
I'm not so sure that the motor is really 2hp. That was from the time when sears uprated everything hp-wise. If you can take a pic of the motor tag with the amps that will tell you what it really is. A scotchbrite pad should clean up most of the surface rust and your rust inhibitor of choice shoud help to keep it down over time. Good luck with it.
OP
OP
I believe, without looking, I believe the one I already have is a 13" model and I forget what the chuck size is. I'm currently on a 96 so it's been a few days since I have been at home.
Everything on it, rust wise, looks like surface rust and should come off real easy.
I believe I paid $150 for the Cman 13" model a decade ago and this one is going to cost me a set of Franklin twins.
Sure, I will have gas and time going to get it but, when I get to spend that time with the wife, eat a decent meal on the road and she's supportive of it, I'll chalk it up as 100% in the win category
Fun is the reason why I make things like the SR2000 in my sig.Now you're taking the fun out of it.
gleman
Well-known member
Now you're taking the fun out of it.
You really should up your intake of cheap canned beer, get the Gingery diy forge book, figure out how to cast into sand molds and then design a new handle or two!
OP
Sorry, not a beer drinker here, just a random smiley.
OP
I'm going to try to use this crank handle if I can make it work.
gleman
Well-known member
Any aluminum cans will work, just gotta build up some stock!
OP
I did a few castings in high school, few decades ago. Honestly, I have enough to do and not enough time to do something else like that.
OP
Drill Press is in the bed of the truck. I'll unload tomorrow morning and get some pictures. Good road trip with the wife today, worth more than the DP itself.
OP
OP
More later, after 4 days at work and to road trip yesterday, I have a lot to catch up on today.
OccupantRJ
Well-known member
Eric, I would think twice about using that abrasive pad you referenced. Way too aggressive in my opinion. Some hand held burgundy scotch brite and wd40 to use it with will do wonders for the column and table without damaging it. For flat surfaces like the table, I cut a circle from the scotchbrite and use it on my 5” orbital sander, wetting with wd40 along the way. I use pads like you referenced to completely strip paint or powder coat off of things like a mower deck.
I have essentially the same drill press in a different brand name (Dayton Industrial... from Granger).
Mine is probably older than yours, based on the front face switch housing of yours being plastic. Mine is cast iron. In fact there is no plastic anywhere on mine except the handle tips, which are more of a hard phenolic type of plastic (cannot dent it with a fingernail test).
The main drill head casting, the table casting, the base casting, the column stand casting, the column gear, column collar, stop indicator, quill spring and cover... are all identical between yours and my 20" drill presses.
Even the ribbing on the underside of the table is exactly the same. I did not tip my drill press over to check the ribbing under the base, but the top of the base is identical.
Regardless of the 113 prefix in the Sears part number of your unit, I would guess that your drill press was manufactured in Taiwan, in the same factory that my Dayton was made.
Mine is probably older than yours, based on the front face switch housing of yours being plastic. Mine is cast iron. In fact there is no plastic anywhere on mine except the handle tips, which are more of a hard phenolic type of plastic (cannot dent it with a fingernail test).
The main drill head casting, the table casting, the base casting, the column stand casting, the column gear, column collar, stop indicator, quill spring and cover... are all identical between yours and my 20" drill presses.
Even the ribbing on the underside of the table is exactly the same. I did not tip my drill press over to check the ribbing under the base, but the top of the base is identical.
Regardless of the 113 prefix in the Sears part number of your unit, I would guess that your drill press was manufactured in Taiwan, in the same factory that my Dayton was made.
OP
I used one on the other drill press column and it was fine. However, I did grab a pack of Scotchbrite pads for the grinder too.
Renegade1LI
Well-known member
Looks pretty similar to the grizzly, which is a good press, good luck with it.
www.grizzly.com
20" Floor Drill Press
<h1>G7948 20" Floor Drill Press</h1> <h2>The awarding winning 20-inch drill press.</h2> <p>The Grizzly G7948 20" Floor Drill Press won the Readers’ Choice award by <em>Fine Woodworking Magazine</em> for its combination of features and overall performance.</p> <p>Floor standing drill presses...
emeraldcoupe
Well-known member
I have the 15" version of your craftsman press
OP
Just an update.
113.213212
Made in China, maybe newer than I thought.
113.213212
Made in China, maybe newer than I thought.
OP
Can anyone decipher the serial number/date code ?
9434900034
9434900034
drs3317
Well-known member
I located a 20” craftsman drill press about an hour away and whole to pick up Tuesday but I will have to take the motor and head off as well as the table and base. I’m hoping one of you owners can tell me what size are the bolts I need to dismantle to pack this in my car. I don’t have a lot of space but want to make sure I have the correct tools along. Thanks.