Craftsman Drill Press (Model 113.24580)

[IdahoMan]

Having recently bought a Craftsman DP (Model 113.24580), I am making a thread dedicated to it (for pics, questions, etc.).

Here is mine:

It is a 15-1/2", 1/2HP. Date: 10-20-69. It needs some clean up and is missing a few parts, but nothing that can't be fixed easily enough. The spring has been sheared/ground off and needs replaced, and the belt-adjustment assembly needs work. It is quiet and seems well-greased. I am very happy to finally have my own, good DP.

Here's the manual: http://www.vintagemachinery.org/pubs/222/4824.pdf

Sears still has the replacement spring here: https://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/38989/0009/113.html ($17.00)

Q1: But what do we know about the specs on the spring (like its strength),
can you find such a spring at the local hardware store amonst all the springs they sell?

Q2: BTW, is the belt on this machine pretty common? I don't expect to find
an OEM (or should I?), but is this the same(?): https://www.amazon.com/Gates-5M710-Polyflex-Section-Length/dp/B0033DM3FQ

Q3: Never used or even touched a machine like this. Is there anything I should know?

Thanks!

 

[lafester]

I've never seen the benchtop version of this press, nice.
The build date for the press should be cast inside the head.

Are you missing the spring? often they just are not adjusted properly or there are other issues causing problems. That model is pretty common, however every one I have seen has been a free standing model. Pretty much every time I do a search I find at least one for sale. I had one briefly and thought it was a decent press.

Do a search and you will find several threads on this model, along with FrankLee's epic craftsman drill press thread. Pretty sure the belt is still available, however not so common. Read through FrankLee's thread as all the main parts are similar if not interchangeable from the older models.

 

[Provincial]

The belt adjustment system is home-made and has nothing in common with the factory design other than it pushes the motor mounting plate further from the spindle. Look at the parts diagram to see the original design.

The return spring operates in torsion. It twists, rather than stretches, so a hardware store spring would not be designed for this application. It looks like the end loop is broken off of your spring. You will have to drive the cross-pin out of the "Hub Assembly" (quill feed gear and handles) to remove the old spring.

The belt on my Model 113.21370 15-1/2" model is a Gates 5M-1150 Polyflex belt. Gates product number for this belt is 8902-1150. You should compare the length of your old belt (if it seems to be the right length) to the length shown in the Gates catalog. I had to find my belt on the internet, as no local outlet could find one in their systems.

I bought my drill press, a floor-standing model, new in 1973. It is a little fast for metalworking above 1/2" diameter drill bits, but has been dependable and accurate. My only complaint is that it has no table elevation crank, so it is a pain to change the height of the table.

 

[lafester]

Great info here.. I didn't even notice the belt tension mod. I must say that is my least favorite feature on this design.

Funny you mention the table lift as that is how I came across this model.
Found one with the atlas table lift doing a country wide search and managed to get it over a month later. I use it almost every time I use the press and was worth the effort to find one.

The belt adjustment system is home-made and has nothing in common with the factory design other than it pushes the motor mounting plate further from the spindle. Look at the parts diagram to see the original design.

The return spring operates in torsion. It twists, rather than stretches, so a hardware store spring would not be designed for this application. It looks like the end loop is broken off of your spring. You will have to drive the cross-pin out of the "Hub Assembly" (quill feed gear and handles) to remove the old spring.

The belt on my Model 113.21370 15-1/2" model is a Gates 5M-1150 Polyflex belt. Gates product number for this belt is 8902-1150. You should compare the length of your old belt (if it seems to be the right length) to the length shown in the Gates catalog. I had to find my belt on the internet, as no local outlet could find one in their systems.

I bought my drill press, a floor-standing model, new in 1973. It is a little fast for metalworking above 1/2" diameter drill bits, but has been dependable and accurate. My only complaint is that it has no table elevation crank, so it is a pain to change the height of the table.

 

[IdahoMan]

Springs for your machine will occasionally pop-up on ebay, but SPD is probably your best bet, and less expensive than ebay.

The belt adjustment rod is simply a 5/16" rod x 7" to 8" long with a rubber end.

I have several spare parts including the rod, parts #35, #36 and #37.

I also have a motor mount, parts #31, #32, and #33; pulley insert and bearings, parts #80, #81, #82 and #83; and possibly other parts.

PM me if you're interested, and let me know if you're missing anything else.

Thanks Frank.

Well, I won't be buying from Sears.. They want all my personal info before giving me the S&H, so nuts to them (I found out the S&H is $8.00.. so, Nope.). Maybe I can bend down a couple loops of the spring, or find a similar spring somewhere.

Some quick questions and an important one:

Q1: Is my quill-lock-knob missing something? It looks a little different in the manual.

Q2: Each pulley is held on by a screw, I have my doubts the one pictured is OEM. The manual says the front pulley uses a "Nylok Set" and the back is a "Hex. Soc.", they are both the same size. Can I just use a Nylok for both?

Q3: I am missing the depth-gage Shoe and Nut. What are purposes of these parts?

A very important question: Lubrication. What should be used, and where, on these machines? (Grease type, oil, threadlock, etc.)

I'll be PM-ing about parts maybe.

Thank you.

 

[VocaTexas]

I've got a floor model drill press that uses that belt. I get them at my local NAPA store.

 

[lafester]

Sears parts typically has a 20 back on 50 coupon which helps ease the shipping pain. If you have a sears parts locally you can probably go there and order to save on shipping or if you call/chat they may work with you on such a light item. They are actually much more helpful with sales then sears. Just don't expect them to do much when there are issues.

 

[FrankLee]

My responses below.

Thanks Frank.

Well, I won't be buying from Sears.. They want all my personal info before giving me the S&H, so nuts to them (I found out the S&H is $8.00.. so, Nope.). Maybe I can bend down a couple loops of the spring, or find a similar spring somewhere.

Some quick questions and an important one:

Q1: Is my quill-lock-knob missing something? It looks a little different in the manual.
It's difficult to tell from your picture as to what may be missing.
The quill lock assembly consists of a threaded lock cylinder with two bevels, a sleeve cylinder with one bevel and a bolt with a knob. There's a photo in this post:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6526168&post6526168


Q2: Each pulley is held on by a screw, I have my doubts the one pictured is OEM. The manual says the front pulley uses a "Nylok Set" and the back is a "Hex. Soc.", they are both the same size. Can I just use a Nylok for both?
Those should not be bolts in the pulleys. Switch to hex socket set screws with a cup(?) point.


Q3: I am missing the depth-gage Shoe and Nut. What are purposes of these parts?
The shoe should be between the end of the thumb screw and the threaded rod. It's purpose is to protect the threads on the rod. The nut Should be threaded down to the stop so it doesn't slide up when using the stop.


A very important question: Lubrication. What should be used, and where, on these machines? (Grease type, oil, threadlock, etc.)
Check this post for how I lube a refurb'd machine:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5401779#post5401779

I'll be PM-ing about parts maybe.

Thank you.

 

[IdahoMan]

My responses below.

Response:

It's hard to find pictures online of this particular DP.

Q1: Thank you. I haven't torn the machine down but the two barrels appear to be there. It's the knob itself I am wondering about (pic1). Is it supposed to be that close to the side of the machine? (the manual makes it look different) BTW, what kind of plastic are these knobs made of (ABS? BakeLite? Other?)? Mine is cracked, but I could repair it.

Q2: The pic (pic2) bellow shows my front pulley with the screw removed, the picture in post #5 above is my back pulley. The front screw is a Nylok and the tip is cupped. Any reason why the manual would list different screws for the front and back pulleys?

Q3: Is the Shoe a complicated part? Do you have a cell-cam and a caliper nearby, what are the dimensions and thread-type/size?

Thank you.

 

[FrankLee]

Response:

It's hard to find pictures online of this particular DP.

Q1: Thank you. I haven't torn the machine down but the two barrels appear to be there. It's the knob itself I am wondering about (pic1). Is it supposed to be that close to the side of the machine? (the manual makes it look different) BTW, what kind of plastic are these knobs made of (ABS? BakeLite? Other?)? Mine is cracked, but I could repair it.

Q2: The pic (pic2) bellow shows my front pulley with the screw removed, the picture in post #5 above is my back pulley. The front screw is a Nylok and the tip is cupped. Any reason why the manual would list different screws for the front and back pulleys?

Q3: Is the Shoe a complicated part? Do you have a cell-cam and a caliper nearby, what are the dimensions and thread-type/size?

Thank you.

1: No, the knob should not make contact with the head frame. It looks like the knob was knocked inward onto the bolt. Perhaps the drill press fell on it. You may be able to tap the bolt back into the knob and glue it. I have no idea what type of plastic that would be. You could also stack a couple washers on the bolt as spacers. Fabbing a replacement should be easy.

2: No idea why the specs would be different. I normally use a thread locker on pulley set screws.

3: Yeah, the shoe is a rather complicated little piece. It is simply a piece of steel between the feed stop rod and the end of the thumb screw. The assembly is a clamp on the rod.






The older style rapid adjust collar assembly will also fit on that feed stop rod. IMO, its a much better design.

 

[IdahoMan]

Took the pullys off. minor damage on the front rotar-thingy-part (that isn't listed in the manual).

Set screws.. cup or flat?

 

[FrankLee]

Took the pullys off. minor damage on the front rotar-thingy-part (that isn't listed in the manual).

Set screws.. cup or flat?

Cup.

That pulley shaft looks fairly normal with the marks/gouges.


I found a better picture of the quill lock handle/bolt.

 

[IdahoMan]

Cup.

That pulley shaft looks fairly normal with the marks/gouges.


I found a better picture of the quill lock handle/bolt.

Thanks Frank, that's what I needed to see.

Here is a pictur of my belt-adjustment assembly. I used some dremel bits and screw-extractor kit to get the broken screw (#37) out.

Do you have a picture of what the full, installed and tightened belt-adj-assembly on the DP looks like?

 

[FrankLee]

Thanks Frank, that's what I needed to see.

Here is a pictur of my belt-adjustment assembly. I used some dremel bits and screw-extractor kit to get the broken screw (#37) out.

Do you have a picture of what the full, installed and tightened belt-adj-assembly on the DP looks like?

Here's a picture of my refurbed dp#43. This one is a slightly later version of yours with a slight variations, but the components are similar.

You may be able to see the jam nut I installed on the rod clamp.

The rubber tips are usually fubar. I'm not sure if yours would have had a version of the orange cap.

I've seen four variations of the screw #37; hex bolt, slotted screw, thumb screw, hex socket set screw.




Original 5184x3888 picture:
https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1726/28908983078_7a0bd067df_o.jpg