Craftsman drill press pulley question

[SgtHawkUSMC]

Hey gentlemen,
I just picked up another Craftsman Drill Press mod #: 101.03581 for $40 the other day. I already have one that was my father's and his father before. It's about a 1940+/- vintage. I cleaned up and restored the original motor when it stopped working. It now works like new again. Both of them are nice and tight. I like them so much more than most new presses.
My question is, how do you remove the front pulley, above the chuck? I'm going to do a full resto on this one even though it runs great. I want to add a 5'-6' pipe so it can free stand in my garage. It's just a 2.25" galvanized pipe. Here's a pic of the new one. I have a bunch of pics I took of the motor whenbI took it apart that I can post sometime too. Thanks.

My original:
https://www.flickr.com/gp/146684464@N06/4878X6

My new one:

https://www.flickr.com/gp/146684464@N06/751294

 

[454ragtop]

Please consider uploading your pics directly to the site, easier for everyone and they'll be around in the future. To remove the spindle pulley, remove the bolt in the front holding the guard on, it goes thru the guard into the mount for the pulley and bearing. Then you can very carefully pull the pulley bearing assembly out. Your plan to convert the bench top drill press to a floor model generally doesn't work out too well. The base is too small, and the drill press will be very tippy, not to mention the lack of ridgidity of a column that long and that small in dia. Consider fabbing a stand or bench instead. That drill press was made by Atlas for Craftsman.

 

[SgtHawkUSMC]

Please consider uploading your pics directly to the site, easier for everyone and they'll be around in the future. To remove the spindle pulley, remove the bolt in the front holding the guard on, it goes thru the guard into the mount for the pulley and bearing. Then you can very carefully pull the pulley bearing assembly out. Your plan to convert the bench top drill press to a floor model generally doesn't work out too well. The base is too small, and the drill press will be very tippy, not to mention the lack of ridgidity of a column that long and that small in dia. Consider fabbing a stand or bench instead. That drill press was made by Atlas for Craftsman.

Thank you. Normally my pics are easy to see in my posts. Unfortunately Flickr doesn't have a way to link when you use their android app for some reason. I'll try to post some pics tomorrow when I'm on a PC.
The bolt was already out of the front guard, but the pulley didn't want to pull up. I tried to tap it lightly too. I'll check it out again.
That's interesting what you said about my idea to convert it to a floor stand version and something I'll definitely consider. I was planning on bolting it to the floor because of the size of the base. I just don't want to take up any bench space. The one I have in the basement takes up too much room on my reloading bench for my liking. If I come up with a stand I like, I might do it for both of them.

 

[SgtHawkUSMC]

Here are the pics I promised. The first ones are of the press I just picked up. The latter are of the one I've been using since I was a little kid and was my father's. I'll take some better pics of the new one at a later date.

My older one:

Ugliness...

New wires, cleaned up and working again:

What I was thinking about doing with my new one:

 

[FrankLee]

What I was thinking about doing with my new one:

As long as you attach the bench base to the floor or a larger platform, IMO, converting to a floor standing unit will not be a problem. Craftsman sold 13-1/2" drill presses with a 2-1/4" diameter by ~60" tall columns as floor models between 1954 and 1957.

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/222/1759.pdf#page=33

 

[SgtHawkUSMC]

As long as you attach the bench base to the floor or a larger platform, IMO, converting to a floor standing unit will not be a problem. Craftsman sold 13-1/2" drill presses with a 2-1/4" diameter by ~60" tall columns as floor models between 1954 and 1957.

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/222/1759.pdf#page=33

Thanks Frank. I agree. I think as long as I either make a larger base or fix it to the floor I should be good to go. Any deflection, if any, in the post would only be between the base and the table. The table to chuck deflection wouldn't be any different that the way it is now.
I noticed you restored one just like it in another thread. Did you have any trouble getting the front pulley and guard off?

 

[FrankLee]

Thanks Frank. I agree. I think as long as I either make a larger base or fix it to the floor I should be good to go. Any deflection, if any, in the post would only be between the base and the table. The table to chuck deflection wouldn't be any different that the way it is now.

Exactly.

Regarding pulley removal... is there a set screw in the second step? I currently have a 15" Atlas Craftsman in pieces and there is a set screw in the pulley.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6683139&posted=1#post6683139

I had that same 101.03581 model, but I don't recall how it came apart.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4325784&posted=1#post4325784

I noticed you restored one just like it in another thread. Did you have any trouble getting the front pulley and guard off?

I do recall that that unit was the biggest pita that I've worked on... especially getting the column out of and back into the base.

 

[SgtHawkUSMC]

Exactly.

Regarding pulley removal... is there a set screw in the second step? I currently have a 15" Atlas Craftsman in pieces and there is a set screw in the pulley.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6683139&posted=1#post6683139

I had that same 101.03581 model, but I don't recall how it came apart.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4325784&posted=1#post4325784



I do recall that that unit was the biggest pita that I've worked on... especially getting the column out of and back into the base.

Wow you have made some great posts! I just went back through a few of them and was just about to post this link to my own question when I saw your response. ( EDIT: MY PULLEY ASSEMBLY WAS DIFFERENT THAN THE ONE IN THE LINK) [link edited out]
I'm going to look at it closer tonight, but I don't think there is a set screw. After looking at your disassembly of one, I see how it's put together now. I suspect the bearings are just tight. I might have to pull the quill? and chuck assembly out first and tap it out from the bottom.
Thanks for all the helpful pics and instructions! I'm a documenter also, so I'll post some pics as I restore it. I'm sure I'll have plenty of questions too...

 

[Sawdustmaker]

On mine there is a set screw. I removed the set screw and then (VERY) gently tapped the pulley with a block of wood and a hammer, working my way around the pulley. Takes awhile, but eventually comes off.

 

[James-W]

On mine there is a set screw. I removed the set screw and then (VERY) gently tapped the pulley with a block of wood and a hammer, working my way around the pulley. Takes awhile, but eventually comes off.

I agree completely. All of those pulleys I have seen all had either one set screw, or sometimes two set screws. One thing for sure, they won't come off easily.

 

[SgtHawkUSMC]

Disassembly complete with exception to the motor. There were no set screws unless you're talking about the large bolt that goes through the cover and into the post that holds the pulley and bearing. I wouldn't even attempt to tap the pulley off again knowing what I know now. I would have cracked the pulley without a doubt. Once I pulled the chuck etc off, I used a drift pin and tapped the pulley assembly out from the bottom. The only relatively hard part was getting the post out of the base. For anyone tackling this job, if you decide to heat the base, be careful of the p/n tag. It's only light aluminum and will melt. Also, when you are removing the chrome cap on the left side (looking at the drill), it only turns about 1/8" and then pulls straight out. It's keyed and holds the spring that holds tension on the chuck assembly. Here are a few pics:

The slow speed attachment:

 

[Sawdustmaker]

Guess I was lucky (?) getting my front pulley off. No, mine definitely has a set screw in the pulley. Maybe a design change at sometime during production runs (???). I noticed your pulley also has the dimples caused by drilling out material, obviously to balance the pulleys during manufacture. The pulleys are aluminum castings. I found a guy (I think it was on the Vintage Tool Forum) that would machine a new set of pulleys for vintage Craftsman drill presses. Was a bit pricey so I passed on it at the time.
I have never taken mine completely apart. Have broken it down into components from moving and cleaning. You are right about that chrome cap, just be sure to release the tension, which I'm sure you did.

 

[Cenci]

Very informative. My question is: how to release the spring tension?

 

[crguy]

Hey gentlemen,
I want to add a 5'-6' pipe so it can free stand in my garage. It's just a 2.25" galvanized pipe.

I think you'll find that galvanized pipe won't work for that column. Too rough, and likely not exactly the correct size or true round.

 

[Cenci]

Very informative. My question is: how to release the spring tension?

 

[rannoch]

Guess I was lucky (?) getting my front pulley off. No, mine definitely has a set screw in the pulley. Maybe a design change at sometime during production runs (???). I noticed your pulley also has the dimples caused by drilling out material, obviously to balance the pulleys during manufacture. The pulleys are aluminum castings. I found a guy (I think it was on the Vintage Tool Forum) that would machine a new set of pulleys for vintage Craftsman drill presses. Was a bit pricey so I passed on it at the time.
I have never taken mine completely apart. Have broken it down into components from moving and cleaning. You are right about that chrome cap, just be sure to release the tension, which I'm sure you did.

I have an older, cheaper craftsman bench drill press (the one with the 1 5/8" column).
The pulley has a pair of set screws that tighten on a hollow steel shaft.
The shaft rides inside a bronze bushing that is press fit into the head and the shaft has a lip opposite the bronze bushing to keep it in place.

I could get a picture of the pulley setup if someone is interested.

Interestingly enough, my Powr-Kraft (Duro made) drill press with the same column size uses the same pulley setup.

In the Montgomery Wards catalogs it was offered as a cheaper option in 1940/1941 compared to similar presses with the full ball bearing set.

 

[Sawdustmaker]

Very informative. My question is: how to release the spring tension?

Oops! Sorry for the delay. Grandkids have kept me hopping.
If you turn the chrome cover/knob the tension will increase. There should be a small black knob right next to the cover/knob. Pulling it releases the tension on the spring. Be sure to hold the cover/knob when doing this so it doesn't spin out of control. Will try to send pic later.