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Craftsman Drill Press spindle cover

BFBOB

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I just bought this Craftsman/Atlas drill press. It's in excellent condition, but it's missing the spindle cover. Apparently their rarity is comparable to that of unicorns - understandable since there's a family resemblance. I have no illusions of finding one, but perhaps one of you kind souls on GJ might have one.
I'd like to fab one up, but lack the dimensions and details of construction, materials, etc. The only clue I have is the photo below, from a 1940 Sears tool catalog.
I know the diameter of the very bottom because I do have the pulley cover it fits into. Other than that, I can only estimate by comparing the picture to the known dimensions on the machine.
And of course I have no idea at all of the construction. Die cast? Turned? Deep drawn? Some combination?

Any clues will be much appreciated. - and of course posting here might help other obsessive types too!

...and in my spare time I'll be trying to dream up a way to mount a power switch on the front without making any holes or marring the original paint.:shocking:
 

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454ragtop

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Bob, can't really help with the spindle cover, the only one of those I had was missing it also, though I have a gut feeling it was sheetmetal.
As far as switch mounting, that's easy, use the guard mounting bolt, replacing it with one that is longer by the thickness of your mount, since that bolt also retains the spindle pulley/bearing. I'd use a piece of 1/8" strap from that bolt to the left side of the head to hold a switch box. Could make another small bracket off the box to rest against the side of the head, but not attached to the head, to steady the box. Hope this makes sense.
 
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BFBOB

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Good idea, Rags. I haven't looked at it carefully yet, was thinking of making a pinch-bolt mount to clamp on the left motor mounting shaft... your idea sounds a whole lot easier!
 

Bdgjr215

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I think I have one of those somewhere,I sold one of those drillpresses and found the cover afterwards.I will look around for it ,I'm halfway moved into a new garage so it should be challenging.Btw,if I remeber correctly its cast potmetal
 
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BFBOB

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Woo hoo!
Just the excuse I needed to build a home foundry!!
 

exmaxima1

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I bought an Atlas DP last year, sold the spindle cover. But I machined a new cover from aluminum for the DP (sold it as well). The original cover is just some cheap die-cast metal, nothing special.

If you have a lathe, you start with a tube unless you have a very long drill and/or boring bar (I do not). Turn a slug for the end, press it in, and turn down to blend with the tube. Similar process for the "big" end. As far as dimensions, just make the ID bigger than the spindle, and long enough to clear it when fully retracted. The original was a friction fit, while I used an O-ring on mine to hold it in place.

Original looks like attached pic. You can make yours straight sided.
 

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WWShop

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Is that a 1/3 hp Craftsman block grinder in the lower left, Bob?
 
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WWShop

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I bought an Atlas DP last year, sold the spindle cover. But I machined a new cover from aluminum for the DP (sold it as well). The original cover is just some cheap die-cast metal, nothing special.

If you have a lathe, you start with a tube unless you have a very long drill and/or boring bar (I do not). Turn a slug for the end, press it in, and turn down to blend with the tube. Similar process for the "big" end. As far as dimensions, just make the ID bigger than the spindle, and long enough to clear it when fully retracted. The original was a friction fit, while I used an O-ring on mine to hold it in place.

Original looks like attached pic. You can make yours straight sided.

Very impressive machining skills! :thumbup:
 

exmaxima1

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Very impressive machining skills! :thumbup:

Oops. I didn't make the chrome cover shown in my pic above, it's the original that came with the DP which also turned out to be a Craftsman (memory failure). This is mine. It's a much plainer version.
 

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WWShop

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Oops. I didn't make the chrome cover shown in my pic above, it's the original that came with the DP which also turned out to be a Craftsman (memory failure). This is mine. It's a much plainer version.

Oh noooo! I take back my compliment!! Just kidding :).....Still impressive skills in your pic! :thumbup:
 
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BFBOB

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Here's a dimensioned drawing I made from some good photos, starting with the lower diameter, which I can be sure of because it fits into the `1 13/16" hole in the pulley cover. the rest I extrapolated from that.

I'm thinking start with a tube the size of the big end of the taper, 1/16" or thicker, cut a wedge out, weld up to form the taper, turn a properly shaped button for the top, braze in, turn the bottom to fit the pulley cover, braze the taper into it. Grind, sand, polish, dash of clear lacquer.

No prob - I can whip that up before lunch.

***Thanks to ToolScrounge for posting a better picture of the original. I've made a small change in my drawing based on it. Same filename, so if you've saved the older one save/replace with this:
 

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BFBOB

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Is that a 1/3 hp Craftsman block grinder in the lower left, Bob?

Yep, it is. I have several, but this 1/3 hp ugly duckling came with the tool rests, eye shields, wheel covers and steel-shaded light. I couldn't resist.
 

bubinga

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I bought an Atlas DP last year, sold the spindle cover. But I machined a new cover from aluminum for the DP (sold it as well). The original cover is just some cheap die-cast metal, nothing special.

If you have a lathe, you start with a tube unless you have a very long drill and/or boring bar (I do not). Turn a slug for the end, press it in, and turn down to blend with the tube. Similar process for the "big" end. As far as dimensions, just make the ID bigger than the spindle, and long enough to clear it when fully retracted. The original was a friction fit, while I used an O-ring on mine to hold it in place.

Original looks like attached pic. You can make yours straight sided.

Oops. I didn't make the chrome cover shown in my pic above, it's the original that came with the DP which also turned out to be a Craftsman (memory failure). This is mine. It's a much plainer version.
No, You Did A Fine Job on the one you Made.
 

exmaxima1

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Here's a dimensioned drawing I made from some good photos, starting with the lower diameter, which I can be sure of because it fits into the `1 13/16" hole in the pulley cover. the rest I extrapolated from that.

I'm thinking start with a tube the size of the big end of the taper, 1/16" or thicker, cut a wedge out, weld up to form the taper, turn a properly shaped button for the top, braze in, turn the bottom to fit the pulley cover, braze the taper into it. Grind, sand, polish, dash of clear lacquer.

No prob - I can whip that up before lunch.

Excellent sketch, really amazing if you only scaled it from pics! Your plan to fabricate it is fine, but I submit that you don't need to weld this. It's only a cover, and no stress, so just use aluminum and press the parts together. FWIW, I made my cover in less than 2 hrs and I'm not a machinist. And I wouldn't put the time into a perfect reproduction without having an original to work from.
 
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BFBOB

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Excellent sketch, really amazing if you only scaled it from pics! Your plan to fabricate it is fine, but I submit that you don't need to weld this. It's only a cover, and no stress, so just use aluminum and press the parts together. FWIW, I made my cover in less than 2 hrs and I'm not a machinist. And I wouldn't put the time into a perfect reproduction without having an original to work from.

The problem is the taper. After all, there is very little functional reason to have it there at all; I just want it to look as original as possible. I think I can do that best in steel. My 9x20 lathe won't turn that long a taper, hence the 3-piece solution.
I have to admit it hadn't dawned on me that the hole down the middle doesn't need to be conical- being able to just drill that sure makes it easier, but still turning the whole thing in one piece involves a huge amount of material removal. My cheapie lathe just can't take a very big bite.

OTOH...
I could turn it out of wood very easily, make it ohhh let's say 4% oversize, and then sweet talk some GJ'er with a foundry to cast it in iron for me.
Yeah, that's the ticket!:thumbup:
 

exmaxima1

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OTOH...
I could turn it out of wood very easily, make it ohhh let's say 4% oversize, and then sweet talk some GJ'er with a foundry to cast it in iron for me.
Yeah, that's the ticket!:thumbup:

If you want it perfect, why not buy one for about $50? Those covers (and complete drill presses) are readily available for very little $$

For example:

https://offerup.com/item/detail/477954589/

It's worth the asking price just for the cover.
 
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BFBOB

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Wow, too bad it's 350 miles away!
Yes, I thought of buying one, even found one for sale, but more than I wanted to pay -- more than I paid for the whole drill press!
 
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rvogel

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Looking at the drill...It looks like a 1936 model 101.0358...Note...in the Craftsman catalog, they did not come with a spindle cover. It was not in the catalog until 1937. Yours is older. I can tell from the spindle spring cap. It is an earlier version. They improved the spindle cap with a click adjustment. Yours is not adjustable.
 
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BFBOB

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Looking at the drill...It looks like a 1936 model 101.0358...Note...in the Craftsman catalog, they did not come with a spindle cover. It was not in the catalog until 1937. Yours is older. I can tell from the spindle spring cap. It is an earlier version. They improved the spindle cap with a click adjustment. Yours is not adjustable.

Very interesting! The photo I posted is from a 1940 catalog. I thought it was identical to mine, but squinting really hard, I can see the click stop quill spring adjuster you mentioned. Mine doesn't have it... but the part number is the same: 101.03580.
The next earlier catalog I could find is 1933, and this DP isn't in it at all.
If you have it, could you please post the 1937 catalog page, or point me to it?

Thanks!
 

Kenwc

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untitled.jpg.html
 

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bubinga

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BFBOB

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Despite Rvogel's contention that my DP didn't originally come with a Spindle Cover,
I couldn't stand it. Gotta have it.
Had a little free time so I decided to build a replica Spindle Cover from whatever I could scrounge around the homestead. I started with a piece of heavy-wall fence post - wall thickness about 3/32 or 1/8". I slit it twice on the bandsaw, taking out a wedge sized to make what was left roll into a cone. About 5 minutes with my Columbian 12" woodworking vise had it looking pretty darn good. A little more effort pounding it over the 1" steel shaft clamped to my workbench got it as close as I thought I could get it.
Then I welded it up, forming the basic cone. I wasn't sure how precise any of this would be, so I made it nearly an inch longer than needed in case my calculations of the final diameters was off.
 

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BFBOB

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Next came the lathe work - starting with squaring up the ends of the cone. There's not much travel in my compound feed, so I ended up having to turn the taper in three steps- repeated several times. A real pain, but as much by trial and error as calculations, I did manage to get the right slope over the whole 5" length. I had planned on just knocking off the horribly high points and then giving it a wirebrush finish, but the more I turned, the better it looked. The wall thickness was enough I was able to turn the entire surface and still have sufficient meat left over - about 1/32 - 1/16".
I finished it with a dose of 100, then 240 grit sandpaper. I considered polishing it to a high gloss, but ya gotta draw the line somewhere.
That done, I started on the bottom collar. I had a good starting point with a cut-off section of very heavy tubing, so it was just a matter of turning the ID's and OD's to spec. That was a little tricky because of the down/up/down profile plus the short length I had to work with- and not wanting to mar one surface with the chuck jaws while turning another. A little fine tuning made a gentle press fit with the bottom of the cone. A simple jig allowed cutting the four notches on the sleeve that fits into the pulley cover on the bandsaw, neatening up with a file.
 

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BFBOB

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The topknot was a pain. I didn't have a good starting point in my scrap bins - a bit of 1.5" shaft would have been good, but no dice. The best I could come up with was hauling out the cutting torch and cutting a semi-roundish piece out of a chunk of H-beam I'd salvaged decades ago. I did a bit of grinding, then changed ove to the 4-jaw chuck to true it up. Once I got a decent cylinder, the rest was easy. Again I gave it a 240-grit finish, fitting it to the top of the cone by trial and error. It is also a light press fit into the cone.
After thoroughly degreasing all three parts, I assembled them and applied water-thin Superglue from the inside. There's enough clearance in the joints that it wicked right in, and is invisible from the outside. Should be plenty strong for what's basically a decorative piece.
 

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BFBOB

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Thanks for the kind words!

Aaaaannndd
The end result!
I'm thinking I may repaint the pulley cover. From the catalog shots I've seen, it should be all the same dark blue as the rest of the machine. Close inspection of mine looks an awful lot like the silver part has been brushed over the original blue, which remains top and bottom. I might still paint the Craftsman lettering a contrasting color.
If anyone knows a good match in rattle can paint, I'd apprecate that info.

Speaking of paint, I decided I'd like the new spindle cone to stay all shiny, mostly because the originals are chrome plated. I had a can of Rustoleum clear gloss, so I spritzed it, and here's the result. Not chrome, but pretty shiny, and should stay that way for quite a while.
 

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larry4406

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Yes!

In traditional GJ colors where overkill is not good enough!

Well done!

How did you hold the cone in the lathe on the tail stock end with the live center? Tapered plug?
 
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BFBOB

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Yes!

In traditional GJ colors where overkill is not good enough!

Well done!

How did you hold the cone in the lathe on the tail stock end with the live center? Tapered plug?

Yup, you got it. I had a thick washer that was pretty close - machined the OD to match the cone's taper, worked fine. Not the most rigid setup, so I had to take very small cuts to true up the taper - .002 was about it. Tedious.
 
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BFBOB

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