Craftsman Drill Press

[Outlawmws]

Nice find with the cover!

 

[Hoorn]

Nice find with the cover!

Thank you Outlaw. I know how uber rare it is, especially with all the hardware and in such great condition. Motor is dated Jan 1954.
OfferUp, guy took one picture of his drill press and it was an extreme close-up of the Heritage logo. I recognized the lip on the bottom of the cast aluminum cover and that was that..

 

[lafester]

Beautiful...

 

[FrankLee]

Very nice find!

 

[Hoorn]

Thank you Frank. I saw your patch job on the cover previously and was amazed at how well it blended in. Completely unnoticeable from the exterior.

Base is definitely Craftsman.
Feed hub cleaned up nicely already.

 

[Hoorn]

Here are pics of the hardware mount. It's held in place by four set screws that clamp onto the upper headframe column brace.
The rod is held in place with a set screw/spring/ball detent to elevate the cover. There is a snap ring on the bottom of the rod.

 

[Jayman17]

Glad to see you back on GJ Frank! You were missed!

Jay

 

[Outlawmws]

So the idea for that cover is lift change speeds adn pop it back down? Much better than having to unbolt it!

 

[Hoorn]

So the idea for that cover is lift change speeds adn pop it back down? Much better than having to unbolt it!

Yes and it works great! And you could also turn the cover sideways once it's elevated to make the belt change even easier.

 

[Outlawmws]

 

[jbltwin1]

Posted this once before but I will do it again as I can't find it. Have a craftsman DP, tag# shown. I will NEVER get around to playing with it and have other DP's. Anybody want it, it's free for the taking. You will have to come get it as the shipping would be stupid high, I am sure. Near STL in Illinois.

 

[Hoorn]

Posted this once before but I will do it again as I can't find it. Have a craftsman DP, tag# shown. I will NEVER get around to playing with it and have other DP's. Anybody want it, it's free for the taking. You will have to come get it as the shipping would be stupid high, I am sure. Near STL in Illinois.

Jbl, I think you'd have more success putting that on the GJ garage sale thread.

 

[jbltwin1]

Thought about that. Just thought it would be more localized here since it pertains to this particular thread. I'll put it over there too.

 

[kcramp858]

Hi guys -- I am still trying to wire up my Craftsman 1/2hp motor.

I had the motor re-wound in Mexico and they used all SAME COLOR wiring, so I lost my original schematic.

So far, I have identified the start, run, and common windings (resistance between start and run = ~7.3ohm, resistance between run and common =~3.6ohm, resistance between start and common ~3.8ohm) -- it is weird that the resistance values are so close on the start vs run winding.

There are two more leads coming off the stator -- I am not sure which is which, I named them (E) and (F).

I thought I had the wiring done correctly:




But, the motor is not running.

I have been switching wires around randomly based on different diagrams on the internet and get results ranging from:
large spark -> gfci receptacle trip (not breaker, so isn't likely to be load)
instant gfci receptacle (not breaker, so isnt likely to be load)
loud hum
louder hum but slow rotation

I think that my wiring is incorrect -- can anyone please comment? I would really appreciate it!!

-edit- please note it is a Craftsman 115.6962 !

 

[11b30b4]

Kcramp858, sounds like you have already ohmed the motor. Which model motor is this? I believe your best course of action would be to post a help needed thread in the general tool discussion with all the information you can provide. Whenever I have motor issues that is where I post and get several replies in a day or so.

 

[kcramp858]

Kcramp858, sounds like you have already ohmed the motor. Which model motor is this? I believe your best course of action would be to post a help needed thread in the general tool discussion with all the information you can provide. Whenever I have motor issues that is where I post and get several replies in a day or so.

I edited the post to include the motor model -- apologies, I posted here because it came with my Craftsman 150 drill press.

I will try there too!

 

[Indexmill]

Hello; is there anybody in there?

 

[Hoorn]

I know this is a bit if a stretch, but drill bits are a huge part of the Craftsman drill press. I wanted to share these because they are so uncommon, at least to me.
I purchased a late 1950s/early 60s Crowntop Craftsman tool box that must have had 30 lb or more of old tools in it. Most of it was junk but there were some amazing finds in there as well. I ran across these two #2 Stickleback rasp type drill bits that were made in Germany.

Looking at them, I can almost imagine some villain chucking these up into a drill and saying, "Ve have vays of making you talk Mr. Bond"

 

[jbltwin1]

I have NEVER seen those before. Those are really cool.

 

[WilsonLR]

So, grandfather was the original owner of my Model 80 (103.23640) which I've dated to circa 1946 using the information here. I've had it since 1980 and hope to pass it on someday. It served us both without complaint and it still runs smoothly on original parts (except the belt). I recently gave it some cosmetic TLC and light oiling. But to be honest, I'd use it more if the table weren't so dog gone hard to adjust the height.

I'm willing to put some sweat equity into it and tear it down to polish up the column but I'm skeptical it would make an improvement. I've seen the counterweight and lifters for the floor standing model but nothing for the bench top. Raising my table even after a lube requires a decent back and forth while lifting. What's the best case scenario given its design?

 

[Outlawmws]

An old car scissor jack and a battery drill... make an adapter.

 

[WilsonLR]

It seems there's three problems. One is to break the grip of the locking clamps. The second is friction between column and table sleeve. The third is the ergonomics of lifting a 20lb table from a point 14" away. The latter is getting harder of late.

 

[11b30b4]

WilsonLR, if you are going to disassemble it and clean it up then I recommend you clean up the column. Grab a section of 4" PVC pipe taller then the column and an end cap. Glue the end cap on and place the column in the PVC pipe. Mix up some citric acid (amazon) and cold water and let it sit for a day. The citric acid will remove the rust. Pull the column of and rinse off with cold water then clean up the column with steel wool. Once the column is cleaned up then apply a coat of floor past wax to the column.

Clean up the table lock lugs with a wire wheel and lube them (and the bore holes) with clear super lube grease and re-install them. Lube the column bore holes in the table with a thin coat of super lube and you should be back in business.

 

[WilsonLR]

Thanks 11b. I took the plunge and began the investment of "sweat equity". So I tore it down today while I await some Grez-off. So are you saying no Evapo-rust for the column? I have a quart calling my name.

I started with the motor and Simple Green with a hand brush. The grey came back like magic. I'm not trying to make it look new but make it look "Mint Used". How would you attack the metal band around the motor? The one on the headstock is flawless.

 

[11b30b4]

WilsonLR, I have used Evapo-rust and I have used citric acid. FrankLee (the op of this thread) turned me on to citric acid. Both work great but the cost is the biggest difference. Evapo-rust runs about $20.00 per gallon and is reusable for about 10 times. It is safe and non-toxic.

Citric acid runs about $20.00 for a 5 pound bag from Amazon. I normally mix 1-2 (depending on the amount of rust) shot glasses of citric acid per gallon of water. This means that a 5 pound bag can mix 426.6665 gallons with one shot per gallon or 213.33325 gallons with 2 shots per gallon. Although you can not reuse the citric acid, it will much further than the Evapo-rust. Also citric acid is food grade safe and non-toxic. I use the Millard brand from Amazon.

So, with citric acid you can control the strength and mix as much as you need to submerge your parts. All you need is a plastic bin or capped pvc pipe. Once you have used it, you can dump it down the drain or dump it in the back year. Totally safe to do either and will not hurt any pets etc…Although, it may not be the best for the grass.

Normally when I am rebuilding something I pace all the parts in a simple green bath for 24 hours, rinse the parts then put them in a citric acid bath for 24 hours. The simple green degreases and helps to remove paint and the citric acid removed the rust.

I leaned the hard way after buying about 10 gallons of Evapo-rust that citric acid was the way to go.

The one thing you to need to know before you use simple green, Evapo-rust, or citric acid is that you do not put anything with graphics, scales, or logos into any of these products. I put a trunnion with a scale on it in simple green and the next day I have a clean trunnion with a blank aluminum plate on it. For all of these items I clean them by hand with Meguiar’s Cleaner Wax.

That said, any non-graphic metal parts (aluminum, steel, etc…) all get the simple green bath and citric acid bath. All the plastic parts get simple green then rinse and any closed components like the stator for the motor and thermal protection switch (klaxon) get CRC aerosol electrical cleaner.

You may find some of my builds helpful. The link in my signature will take you to all my builds but here is a relevant build link.

11b30b4’s Craftsman 103.24531 (150) Drill Press Rebuild

Last week I picked up this Craftsman 103.24531 Drill Press for $50.00 from an Estate Sale along with a few other things. This is actually my second 150 series Drill Press and the 5th Drill Press rebuild for me. Here is a pic of my other 150 DP and it is the exact same model...

www.garagejournal.com

Good luck and let us know how everything turns out.

 

[WilsonLR]

Update on my resto:

• Scotch-brite wheels plus rotary tool plus tripoli on the bare metal bores worked a treat.
• Grez-Off plus brush plus elbow grease brought the gray back on the painted bits
• The chuck and quill got Greze-off followed by buffing with white rouge.
• Plan is to attack the column and shelf next.
• Sleeves are clean, smooth and shiny.
• The paint is the proper color and clean but no longer glossy.

Is there a way to get the gloss back before wax or Boshield?

 

[Smokeshow69]

Thanks 11b. I took the plunge and began the investment of "sweat equity". So I tore it down today while I await some Grez-off. So are you saying no Evapo-rust for the column? I have a quart calling my name.

I started with the motor and Simple Green with a hand brush. The grey came back like magic. I'm not trying to make it look new but make it look "Mint Used". How would you attack the metal band around the motor? The one on the headstock is flawless.

I had really good luck on my motor band with wd-40 and some very fine grade steel wool. It probably took me about 45 minutes and i was pleased with the results. I just sprayed it gently to keep the liquid out of the motor and then rubbed it down . It works pretty quick.

 

[WilsonLR]

UPDATE:

1. Got some assistance on disassembling pulley and quill from head stock
2. Feed Stop bracket had slipped down 1/4". Fix was to cut the feed stop at bolt hole (as was done on later models),
3. Reseated feed stop on quill
4. Column removed from base
5. All bore's refinished with 400 and 1000 grit rotary bits and compound (Tripoli & White Rouge)

NEXT:
Refinish tops with finish sander and lube
Treat rust then refinish column on buffer
Refinish motor mount posts on buffer

 

[WilsonLR]

I noticed the lower pulley bearing was scratchy compared to the upper one. After seeing so many Youtubers just pop them off, lookup the number and voila, I pulled it off to do the same while its torn down.

I'm not seeing a Hoover 77205 on McMaster. I found a thread on practical machinist about a 6205 as a substitute.

Hoover 77205 bearing substitution

This is for a Rutan motor from a Clausing 5914 lathe. In another thread in the forum, the consensus had been that a 6205 can be substituted. The 6205 bearings arrived today but they don't fit. Unfortunately, the ID of the Hoover 77205 is 0.983"/24.97mm (close to 63/64") and a 6205 bearing has a...

www.practicalmachinist.com

I made a guess that it's a shielded bearing so I ordered Trade No. 6502-2Z which is McMaster 5972K341.

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

If the pulley bearing is a sealed bearing, please let me know. TIA

 

[bubinga]

I think you should be able to use shielded or sealed just fine either way.

 

[Hoorn]

UPDATE:

1. Got some assistance on disassembling pulley and quill from head stock
2. Feed Stop bracket had slipped down 1/4". Fix was to cut the feed stop at bolt hole (as was done on later models),
3. Reseated feed stop on quill
4. Column removed from base
5. All bore's refinished with 400 and 1000 grit rotary bits and compound (Tripoli & White Rouge)

NEXT:
Refinish tops with finish sander and lube
Treat rust then refinish column on buffer
Refinish motor mount posts on buffer

Wilson, nice work so far on that DP.

 

[Miss the Pontiacs]

Mr. Lee what I would like to know is how come your avatar is blank. Are you that invisible man that heists the 10mm sockets?

 

[WilsonLR]

I had really good luck on my motor band with wd-40 and some very fine grade steel wool.

This did not work for me. It made no visible improvement in spite of me using a ton of elbow grease in addition to the WD-40 and #0000 scotch brite. I'm willing to remove the band. Any other ideas?

 

[WilsonLR]

Ugh, married to the buffer all day. The Mrs is jealous.

I could use some advice for reassembly. Bearing comes Monday. In the mean time, I tried some BOSHIELD T-9 on the motor mount and like it for the painted parts. I'll use Johnson wax for the parts I can't spray. I have Super Lube silicone oil for the various clamps and all bores.

What should I use on the bolts, column and the quill assembly?

 

[Cruzan80]

I use the paste wax on the column and quill before with good results.

 

[11b30b4]

Wilson. the 6205 bearings will be fine. I prefer shielded over sealed and most of these DP originally came with shielded. Shielded have the metal covers and sealed have the plastic covers fyi.

The only issue with bearings on the dps is the quill bearings. They must have a 5/8” bore or at least most of them do. Although this list is not 100% accurate, it is useful.

Replacement Bearing List - Sears Craftsman/Companion/Dunlap/Fulton/Kenmore Machinery - VintageMachinery.org Knowledge Base (Wiki)

wiki.vintagemachinery.org

Also, I like McMaster Carr but for most of my bearings I get them from Accurate bearings.

As for the stator band, did you not check out my thread I previously linked? I have never been able to save or restore a motor stator band and I have remade all of my bands.

Good job on the parts clean up. When I reassemble, I use aerosol penetrating lubricant on all the bolts, loose parts and any part that is polished bare metal. I use super lube grease in all bores and moving metal to metal parts like quill and column locks. I apply paste wax to tabletop and column.

No lube in the bores that hold a ball bearing such as the spindle pulley assembly. be sure to spray down the spring with the penetrating lube and do not use WD-40 that stuff has water in it and will cause rust.

 

[WilsonLR]

I don't have citric acid for the stator band. I'll look for some Protexall Products.

 

[WilsonLR]

Will be reassembling as soon as springs for the clamps arrive. Lower pulley bearing when on easily after putting the pulley assembly in the freezer for an hour. Couple whacks on the bearing and it snapped into place. Here's the obligatory pre-assembly drill press ****:

 

[11b30b4]

Wilson, the protexall is a post clean up and lubrication product. It will not remove the rust from the stator band. For the stator band you really only have three choices. One remove rust with citric acid or some other product or method. Even if you remove the rust, restoring the original striped polished steel pattern will ne extremely hard.
Two, scrap the original band and fabricate a replacement.
Three, clean up the original band then apply the engine turned vinyl to the band.

 

[WilsonLR]

NUTS!!! After re-assembling everything except the motor, this 1/4-20 2" bolt is left over. I'm not seeing it in the manual. Ideas?