Craftsman Drill Press
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Craptain
Well-known member
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
Here's my latest buy. I intend to flip it and likely won't get to deeply into it beyond clean up and maybe a shorter belt. It has low runout and has been well maintained up to the death of the owner. The widow left it untouched along with much of his shop for a couple of years until she passed.
A nice feature on this motor is a reversing switch.
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Here's my latest buy. I intend to flip it and likely won't get to deeply into it beyond clean up and maybe a shorter belt. It has low runout and has been well maintained up to the death of the owner. The widow left it untouched along with much of his shop for a couple of years until she passed.
A nice feature on this motor is a reversing switch.
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Locker537
Well-known member
Re: Quill Lock Replacement Bolt
I like it.
I mulled this over for a while and finally came up with another hack to address this. A threaded connector on a piece of all-thread with red thread locker... cut to length, it works great!
Of course there are other ways to accomplish this; a longer standard bolt with a spacer, for instance, but I like this.
I like it.
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
That's a nice drill press! The can/bottle opener is also a nice feature.
Is that motor 3450 rpm? In the little research I did ('42 & '43 catalogs), I could only find a motor with a reverse switch in 3450 rpm. If it is, with the belt that high on the step pulleys, that spindle must be screaming fast.
Thanks.
That's a nice drill press! The can/bottle opener is also a nice feature.
Is that motor 3450 rpm? In the little research I did ('42 & '43 catalogs), I could only find a motor with a reverse switch in 3450 rpm. If it is, with the belt that high on the step pulleys, that spindle must be screaming fast.
I like it.
Thanks.
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Craptain
Well-known member
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
I checked it with my phone app and it seems to be 1750. That is also what I 'think' I am seeing on the tag.
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I checked it with my phone app and it seems to be 1750. That is also what I 'think' I am seeing on the tag.
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Craptain
Well-known member
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
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I rather think it is a case of finding the right years. I honestly have no clue what the age of the motor is. Or the dp for that matter, just the era.
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Jeep Monkey RTR
Well-known member
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
Well,
As promised, here is is. Based on reading thru this thread, it is clear the motor is not original. Everything seems to work well, except for the quill return spring. I have to manually rotate it down and up. As some point I will figure that out.
Also, i need to wire up a switch. The switch you see only powers the light, not the machine. Previous owner plugged the drill press into out switched power outlet.
Any way, please tell me what you all think. So far, I am very happy with my first drill press.
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So . . .? Buy it?
Well,
As promised, here is is. Based on reading thru this thread, it is clear the motor is not original. Everything seems to work well, except for the quill return spring. I have to manually rotate it down and up. As some point I will figure that out.
Also, i need to wire up a switch. The switch you see only powers the light, not the machine. Previous owner plugged the drill press into out switched power outlet.
Any way, please tell me what you all think. So far, I am very happy with my first drill press.
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Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
Firstly, very nice! If that's original paint even better. It's clean and looks taken care of. Nice chrome.
You're correct, the motor is not original. That motor is too fast, even with that middle pulley. It's more appropriate for a table saw, jointer, or shaper.
The spring... it's possible that it may be wonky, but more likely it just needs adjustment. Lock the quill, pull the hub out about an inch or so and rotate the hub clockwise about 1/2 turn and let it draw back in. unlock the quill and test. Repeat if necessary.
The lamp is nice too.
Firstly, very nice! If that's original paint even better. It's clean and looks taken care of. Nice chrome.
You're correct, the motor is not original. That motor is too fast, even with that middle pulley. It's more appropriate for a table saw, jointer, or shaper.
The spring... it's possible that it may be wonky, but more likely it just needs adjustment. Lock the quill, pull the hub out about an inch or so and rotate the hub clockwise about 1/2 turn and let it draw back in. unlock the quill and test. Repeat if necessary.
The lamp is nice too.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Agree wrong speed motor but as an FYI it is period correct, (1960 date code, so very possibly the same year for the DP.
I wonder if someone needed a lot of speed for the work they did with this? Seems overkill since they had the extra pulley and could go faster or slower...
ps: replace the cord with a grounded cord, whatever else you do with the motor!
I wonder if someone needed a lot of speed for the work they did with this? Seems overkill since they had the extra pulley and could go faster or slower...
ps: replace the cord with a grounded cord, whatever else you do with the motor!
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Jeep Monkey RTR
Well-known member
regarding the motor, what would you all do? Keep it because you have it or exchange with a 1750 RPM (I think that's what came on the these originally) motor? Would you buy new or purchase a vintage one? If vintage, where do you look?
I do not need and crazy high speed RPM's for anything drill press related.
I do not need and crazy high speed RPM's for anything drill press related.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
First off, 1 HP is overkill on a DP this size for most. IF and only IF you drill very large holes (I'm talking like bigger metal cutting hole saws, here..), would you need 1HP
1/2 is the usual motor, I had a 3/4 on my old DP and it was more than adequate for the above.)
So 1/2, possibly 3/4 HP, 1725 RPM , and used (craigslist?) should be fine.
Unless you are dead set on period correct, new or used won't matter much. Get one without oilers on it (Should mean sealed bearings) unless the oilers are setup for vertical mount.
The only other things to watch for are shaft size, (needs to match the pulley) mounting is compatible, and and rotation if its not reversible or double shafted. Of course 120V unless you have and use 220...
1/2 is the usual motor, I had a 3/4 on my old DP and it was more than adequate for the above.)
So 1/2, possibly 3/4 HP, 1725 RPM , and used (craigslist?) should be fine.
Unless you are dead set on period correct, new or used won't matter much. Get one without oilers on it (Should mean sealed bearings) unless the oilers are setup for vertical mount.
The only other things to watch for are shaft size, (needs to match the pulley) mounting is compatible, and and rotation if its not reversible or double shafted. Of course 120V unless you have and use 220...
Cruzan80
Well-known member
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
I would swap it, possibly for OEM if I could find one. I also keep a stash of motors for this reason. Vintage is fine if wiring works, can replace bearings if needed.
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I would swap it, possibly for OEM if I could find one. I also keep a stash of motors for this reason. Vintage is fine if wiring works, can replace bearings if needed.
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I would definitely swap it out.
Look for vintage Craftsman machines that use the slower motor; lathes, band saws, scroll saws, etc. Sometimes those are very inexpensive and include the motor.
Although it doesn't show a motor, here's an example near me:
https://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/tls/6113605171.html
Picked up this beautiful floor model for only $50 this weekend. Didn't really need much work and I didnt feel like getting into a whole project so a simple green bath and it looks good as new. Build date seems to be Oct 1955
When I first got it:
Simple green and soft bristle brush removed all the grime and most of the yellow paint at the base
When I first got it:
Simple green and soft bristle brush removed all the grime and most of the yellow paint at the base
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Locker537
Well-known member
Tonnellin, looks great!
Smokeshow69
Well-known member
Picked up this beautiful floor model for only $50 this weekend. Didn't really need much work and I didnt feel like getting into a whole project so a simple green bath and it looks good as new. Build date seems to be Oct 1955
When I first got it:
Simple green and soft bristle brush removed all the grime and most of the yellow paint at the base
You **** [emoji16] very nice find and great clean up !
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smalltown
Well-known member
Tonellin Do you let the simple green set there for a while ?
That was a nice find !
That was a nice find !
Thanks guys I'm really excited - I plan on keeping this one in the garage indefinitely. My model 80 served me well but I enjoy this floor model better in every way
On the head assembly I didn't let the simple green sit long because I didn't want it contaminating any of the parts that actually need grease. I just sprayed, scrubbed with a soft brush, let it sit for a few mins, scrubbed some more and then wiped clean with damp cloth. On the base I let it sit a lot longer because who knows how long that yellow paint had been sitting on there
On the head assembly I didn't let the simple green sit long because I didn't want it contaminating any of the parts that actually need grease. I just sprayed, scrubbed with a soft brush, let it sit for a few mins, scrubbed some more and then wiped clean with damp cloth. On the base I let it sit a lot longer because who knows how long that yellow paint had been sitting on there
shortykorte
Well-known member
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
Yep you ****. I'll sell you one disassembled and post cut in half for twice as much.
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Yep you ****. I'll sell you one disassembled and post cut in half for twice as much.
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ckadams00
Well-known member
Those are two great looking presses (geez both tables look almost unused!!) Congrats to both of you!
Jeep Monkey what is with the collar below the table? Guessing someone maybe put that there so the table wouldn't fall and crash during adjustment? Or do you see another use?
Jeep Monkey what is with the collar below the table? Guessing someone maybe put that there so the table wouldn't fall and crash during adjustment? Or do you see another use?
Zeeman
Well-known member
Just a small warning: Be careful with harsh cleaners on the nameplates, etc. I used some degreaser which was watered down slightly, and it ate the paint right off my serial number tag. It's very shiny now though! Luckily I had a spare. Pics later if anyone wants to see. It hurts me to look at it a little.
ckadams00
Well-known member
So with 5 machines, have you started to notice a pattern of issues? Any unique problems on any?
Hi Frank, took a while to get back to you but I didn't really have a chance to look closely at all these presses until this past weekend.
I don't know if I have anything brilliant to offer but I'll share a few details that caught my eye.
1. Obviously a lot of these 150 presses were factory gold. Many of them I come across are grey - but the SAME grey. So it is hard for me to believe that independent buyers just painted their gold machines the SAME grey. On the other hand, if any at the factory were painting these, I doubt they would be overspraying all the parts like the handles. Any thoughts?
Hi Frank, took a while to get back to you but I didn't really have a chance to look closely at all these presses until this past weekend.
I don't know if I have anything brilliant to offer but I'll share a few details that caught my eye.
1. Obviously a lot of these 150 presses were factory gold. Many of them I come across are grey - but the SAME grey. So it is hard for me to believe that independent buyers just painted their gold machines the SAME grey. On the other hand, if any at the factory were painting these, I doubt they would be overspraying all the parts like the handles. Any thoughts?
ckadams00
Well-known member
Second: and this really doesn't apply to anything, it's just an observation. I don't know if they were busy cranking these out, or if the QC just wasn't in place: but when I inspect these machines I am AMAZED at the variance in casting quality. Some are good. Some are just "ok" and some - frankly, are so far off it's a head scratcher.
ckadams00
Well-known member
And here's my "100" that I'm going to rebuild. I want to keep the 100 because it's machine turned band matched all the other vintage CM tools (band saw, belt sander, scroll saw, joiner, table saw) that I have. But HOLY COW the casting is pitiful. Not enough to discard it for one of the 150s I have, but Geez.
Craptain
Well-known member
No real answer from me just an observation/question.
Could a large supply of ex military paint have anything to do with it?
Also, is the grey covering any other colors?
Just some thoughts to promote more thoughts.
My Mohawk dp appears to be the same grey.
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Outlawmws
Well-known member
Just as a note: "Machinery Grey" was a standard for many many companies after WWII. so much so you could buy it in rattle cans (and probably still can...) I painted or repainted many tools with it over the years. Even my Parker Vise still has the remnants of its MG paint job from over 30 years ago. I will say this: MG is (or was) far more durable than the average enamel. Not sure what anything is made of these days with CARB limiting VOC's so much...
I finally got sick of everything being MG, so I've branched out (sometimes regardless of the original color) and often go for a very dark blue, but not always...
I finally got sick of everything being MG, so I've branched out (sometimes regardless of the original color) and often go for a very dark blue, but not always...
ckadams00
Well-known member
I come across a lot of these machines that were originally gold but then painted machine grey. Funny though, they all still seem to have the gold left under the headband . . .but no overspray on the bands. So either people were really careful to tape off the bands, or . . .
Seems like it would be a lot easier to remove the two drive screws and band and just paint the whole head?
Seems like it would be a lot easier to remove the two drive screws and band and just paint the whole head?
Locker537
Well-known member
Here's something I've been thinking about...
After disassembling, cleaning, lubing, and reassembling my first Model 100, I set the quill return tension and it felt great. The quill would return under it's own power properly. After the machine sat for a night it no longer would return under it's own power and also resisted being brought down as well.
If I let the machine run for 2-3 minutes and generate a little heat, it would loosen up.
I assume this is not normal, but I don't know if it's an issue with the machine or the operator?
After disassembling, cleaning, lubing, and reassembling my first Model 100, I set the quill return tension and it felt great. The quill would return under it's own power properly. After the machine sat for a night it no longer would return under it's own power and also resisted being brought down as well.
If I let the machine run for 2-3 minutes and generate a little heat, it would loosen up.
I assume this is not normal, but I don't know if it's an issue with the machine or the operator?
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Where is the quill lock set? Is it dragging?
Locker537
Well-known member
It's very loose.
Craptain
Well-known member
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
Those symptoms are more like an un-restored machine.
The quill should be lightly lubed not totally gooped up. There should be no lube on the return spring. Both of these can make it sluggish. Maybe try some light oil on the quill to thin out any grease. Also maybe a little more tension on the spring.
Just ideas.
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Those symptoms are more like an un-restored machine.
The quill should be lightly lubed not totally gooped up. There should be no lube on the return spring. Both of these can make it sluggish. Maybe try some light oil on the quill to thin out any grease. Also maybe a little more tension on the spring.
Just ideas.
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Craptain
Well-known member
The screw may be loose but the lock cam/wedge could be hanging up.
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The quill lock would have also been my first quess. When you say very loose is that just the lock handle? If you have the early pot-metal style lock cylinders, they could be deformed and not releasing the quill. Try removing the whole quill lock assembly and test again. Also check the inside lock cylinders in the head frame. Old dry grease is difficult to clean out.
Other things that can cause drag:
- a wonky spring - check here for an example from RHJO51
- a too tight pinion retaining screw - in the past, I've seen a screw with two fiber washers
- a mis-aligned feed stop rod or bracket - these are often difficult to get right
- under-lubricated spindle splines
- under-lubricated pinion shaft
- excessively thick lubrication - a gooey sticky mess will prevent a smooth feed
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I've had several that were repainted and most were gray. Another theory is that back in the day, there were likely not many off-the-shelf color options for paint. Gray must have seemed the most logical and appropriate.
I have to agree, the castings were far from perfect. Even many of the finish grindings were done poorly. I've also noticed voids in some pot-metal pieces.
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Smokeshow69
Well-known member
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
Just wanted to say what a great resource this thread is! I am in the process of trying to learn as much about these beauties as I can as I just picked up a bench top model.... It looks rougher than it really is. Someone broke the side handle and put this awful lamp on it but the rest of the machine just needs tlc. Wondering if anyone has a good 3 prong handle and hub ? Also am looking for a good vintage lamp! It will get a full resto down the road but for now I am going to right the wrongs on it and use it! I am not sure exactly how old it is either since it does not have the original motor
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Just wanted to say what a great resource this thread is! I am in the process of trying to learn as much about these beauties as I can as I just picked up a bench top model.... It looks rougher than it really is. Someone broke the side handle and put this awful lamp on it but the rest of the machine just needs tlc. Wondering if anyone has a good 3 prong handle and hub ? Also am looking for a good vintage lamp! It will get a full resto down the road but for now I am going to right the wrongs on it and use it! I am not sure exactly how old it is either since it does not have the original motor
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Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
It's difficult to pinpoint an exact year, but relatively easy to figure out a before, after, or between year(s). For example, your machine has a tilt table. Tilt tables were eliminated as a standard item in 1956. So yours is before 1956. Review the evolution post for other change dates to narrow down further. Link in the first post.
It's difficult to pinpoint an exact year, but relatively easy to figure out a before, after, or between year(s). For example, your machine has a tilt table. Tilt tables were eliminated as a standard item in 1956. So yours is before 1956. Review the evolution post for other change dates to narrow down further. Link in the first post.