Craftsman Drill Press

[sheltonfilms]

Complete code on motor was: "C3 47"

One is for sale on eBay with code "A2 47"

So anyone know what the first two digits are? Is it month then production week maybe?

C3= 3rd week March?
A2= 2nd week January?

 

[FrankLee]

Complete code on motor was: "C3 47"

One is for sale on eBay with code "A2 47"

So anyone know what the first two digits are? Is it month then production week maybe?

C3= 3rd week March?
A2= 2nd week January?

I don't think the dates codes have been definitively deciphered.

I currently have four Craftsman and Dunlap motors with date codes. None have the letter code, only month and year:

• 6 54
• 3 55
• 6 55
• 7 57

 

[sheltonfilms]

Well I checked the runout today on the benchtop 2 handle "100".

Needle didn't hardly blip. Eyeballing the gauge I would say 0.0002" taken at the spindle taper. Pretty darn good for 70 years old.

I've got a feeling the original owner barely used this press and it has just been sitting for decades. Everything was seized when I got it.

 

[Defc0n]

I have my motor completed. I thought you might like to see it. I followed the paint scheme that I saw on one of FrankLee's units.

 

[FrankLee]

Well I checked the runout today on the benchtop 2 handle "100".

Needle didn't hardly blip. Eyeballing the gauge I would say 0.0002" taken at the spindle taper. Pretty darn good for 70 years old.

I've got a feeling the original owner barely used this press and it has just been sitting for decades. Everything was seized when I got it.

Excellent!

What are your plans with the your '47 and '57 100's?

 

[FrankLee]

I have my motor completed. I thought you might like to see it. I followed the paint scheme that I saw on one of FrankLee's units.

Very nice work!

 

[sheltonfilms]

Excellent!

What are your plans with the your '47 and '57 100's?

The '57 is getting all new bearings and I think I'm gonna go with a light retro green since it is a 50s model (see attached picture I photoshoped). I think I'm going to keep the 3450 RPM motor since it is the right year, and I will add a jackshaft to the side to reduce the speed by 4x.

Everything is really perfect on the 47 as far as wear. I really think the guy used it a few times and it has been setting forever. Still had a old Dunlap belt. I think I'm going to paint it the dark machine gray.



That answer your question or are you wondering how I'm gonna set them up to be used?

 

[FrankLee]

The '57 is getting all new bearings and I think I'm gonna go with a light retro green since it is a 50s model (see attached picture I photoshoped). I think I'm going to keep the 3450 RPM motor since it is the right year, and I will add a jackshaft to the side to reduce the speed by 4x.

Everything is really perfect on the 47 as far as wear. I really think the guy used it a few times and it has been setting forever. Still had a old Dunlap belt. I think I'm going to paint it the dark machine gray.



That answer your question or are you wondering how I'm gonna set them up to be used?

Yep. Glad to hear they'll both be back in service. I'm looking forward to seeing your refurb updates.

 

[sheltonfilms]

Well I know the new bench top one is gonna teach me how to do engine turning. I tried cleaning up the band with cleaner wax and it's not gonna release whatever crud is on it unless I press hard and polish out the "jewels".

Floor model has the stamped style headband so no issue there.

I don't think it will be too bad. Just gonna have to order a rubber abrasion stick and maybe make a jig to keep the alignment of the pattern right.

 

[FrankLee]

Maybe it's the time of year, or the market dried up, but I haven't found a vintage drill press in quite a while.

So, I picked up my next project from an estate sale yesterday. It's a Craftsman 6" belt/9" disk sander, model 103.22500. It looks complete except the belt table fence is missing... like usual. No motor or stand, but I can rig something after it's cleaned up.

​

I already have it dismantled. I had this same model, but newer, a few years ago. This one was easier to tear down for some reason.

​

 

[exmaxima1]

The '57 is getting all new bearings and I think I'm gonna go with a light retro green since it is a 50s model (see attached picture I photoshoped). I think I'm going to keep the 3450 RPM motor since it is the right year, and I will add a jackshaft to the side to reduce the speed by 4x.

3450 rpm motor? I thought I was the only one that bought a CM drill press with that high speed motor! At least mine came with the middle pulley, but that kinda defeated the whole point of having it. There's so many CM motors floating around I would ditch that 3450 motor and save the hassle of adding a jack shaft arrangement.

 

[sheltonfilms]

3450 rpm motor? I thought I was the only one that bought a CM drill press with that high speed motor! At least mine came with the middle pulley, but that kinda defeated the whole point of having it. There's so many CM motors floating around I would ditch that 3450 motor and save the hassle of adding a jack shaft arrangement.

Yeah but doing the jackshaft gets two birds stoned at once.

Reduces the 3450 rpm motor and reduces it even more at the same time like the multispeed pulley would.

 

[FrankLee]

Today, I sold and delivered the refurb'd grinder and two power tool stands to the buyer of dp#34.

​

He has this old B-Line 1/4 hp grinder that he asked me to refurb, so I brought that home.

​

While I was at his shop, I media blasted the alfa-class belt cover from the Atlas Craftsman drill press #37.

​

On the way to his shop, I stopped at a garage sale and bought this tub full of stuff for $5. There was a bunch of junk, a few good pieces and a very nice find at the bottom.

​

It was a good day!

 

[Outlawmws]

A VERY good day!

 

[sheltonfilms]

Hello Guys, your ideas on fixing the spindle pulley are good - keep them coming. Rather fix this one then turn it into a parts machine. Thanks again

Ok I've been thinking about this and I think I got the perfect solution, that is if the product works as good as I've seen it shown.

I remember a product I saw on TV like 15 years ago called Alumaloy. It's like a brazing rod of aluminum alloy and is damn near as strong as aluminum (39,000 PSI vs regular aluminum at 42,000). But the kicker is that the melting point is like 728F compared to regular aluminum at 1220 F. Another benefit is that it doesn't stick to steel (unless it's galvanized).

Ok so here is the process.

Get a steel rod to act like a plug and help mold the ends of the spline. Actually if you are going to do this process just forget the plug and alumaloy the whole interior of the pulley (making splines the whole length of the pulley shaft.)

Alumaloy the interior of the shaft.

Bore out the inner diameter (need to do it on a lathe to center it).

Then using a shaper, rotary broach, etc make the interior splines.

Done and it as good as new if not better if you do the longer splines.


Now this should also work for shafts that are worn due to inner races spinning.

Add alumaloy around the entire area that is worn down and just chuck it up in a lathe and turn it down to the correct diameter. I mic'd 0.984" (inner diameter of bearing is 0.98425")

Product sells for $30 a lbs on amazon.

And I found the old infomercial:

 

[Outlawmws]

I'm not sure the pulleys are not either Pot metal or Zamak. so the Alumaloy may not work with it. As I recall the aluminum has to be absolutely clean (wire brush and IMMEDIATLY "braze" it...) so testing my be needed.

That said, if it DID work, that could be a way to salvage a pulley with a chip out of an edge. (I have one of these...)

Hmm, Don't pot metal and Zamak both have a lot of zinc in them? Maybe a test with some muratic acid would tell what it is or isn't...

 

[sheltonfilms]

I'm not sure the pulleys are not either Pot metal or Zamak. so the Alumaloy may not work with it. As I recall the aluminum has to be absolutely clean (wire brush and IMMEDIATLY "braze" it...) so testing my be needed.

That said, if it DID work, that could be a way to salvage a pulley with a chip out of an edge. (I have one of these...)

Hmm, Don't pot metal and Zamak both have a lot of zinc in them? Maybe a test with some muratic acid would tell what it is or isn't...

Their spec sheet/ website says it can work with "Aluminum , Pot Metal, Galvanized Steel, Mag Alloys"

Only issue I would see is the melting point. Quick google on zamak says it's MP is 725 F.

BTW I don't have any background in metallurgy, so heads up on that.

If it does work then it opens up the possibilities to fixing all the broken vari-slo handles.

 

[Defc0n]

I'm having a problem reassembling my "80". I installed the quill first as directed by another post so the splined shaft would guide the pulley bearings straight into their seats. I tapped the pulley with it's two bearings and spacer down the shaft until it seated against the C clip. I thought everything was ok until I was adjusting the quill retract spring. When I got it set close to about where it needed to be, I noticed that when I raised the quill it pushed the pulley bearings up out of their seats. This should be a press fit. I don't understand what's going on. I tried fitting an old bearing in the upper seat and it slides easily in just like the new bearings. It doesn't look like the case halves have separated any so how is this fit not tight any more? I'm thinking the answer here is it was held together by old grease before and now that it's cleaned up it needs some green loctite on the bearing seats. Please advise.

 

[sheltonfilms]

I'm having a problem reassembling my "80". I installed the quill first as directed by another post so the splined shaft would guide the pulley bearings straight into their seats. I tapped the pulley with it's two bearings and spacer down the shaft until it seated against the C clip. I thought everything was ok until I was adjusting the quill retract spring. When I got it set close to about where it needed to be, I noticed that when I raised the quill it pushed the pulley bearings up out of their seats. This should be a press fit. I don't understand what's going on. I tried fitting an old bearing in the upper seat and it slides easily in just like the new bearings. It doesn't look like the case halves have separated any so how is this fit not tight any more? I'm thinking the answer here is it was held together by old grease before and now that it's cleaned up it needs some green loctite on the bearing seats. Please advise.

If you don’t have the feed stop collar on (and all the way seated) and an o-ring or original gasket above the collar, then the quill will travel far enough to push the spindle pulley out.

 

[Defc0n]

If you don’t have the feed stop collar on (and all the way seated) and an o-ring or original gasket above the collar, then the quill will travel far enough to push the spindle pulley out.

They are all in place. I have to admit I had some trouble getting the splines to match. Slight tapping with a brass hammer caused the interference points to gouge the spline surfaces inside the pulley which I then filed off with needle files until it fit. I'm still not sure how this happened as the splines wouldn't mate properly no matter how I aligned them. Maybe I need to do a little better filing job inside the pulley splines. Maybe I screwed up too.

 

[sheltonfilms]

Probably got some burrs on the insides then. Shouldn't have to use a hammer at all.

Take it all apart and slide the splines in and out of the spindle pulley, outside of the headstock and see if it grabs.

 

[Defc0n]

Probably got some burrs on the insides then. Shouldn't have to use a hammer at all.

Take it all apart and slide the splines in and out of the spindle pulley, outside of the headstock and see if it grabs.

I took it back apart and examined the quill splines with magnification and my fingers and filed off even the slightest imperfections. I did the same with the inside of the pulley splines under a stereo microscope with needle files. I cleaned everything up real good and found the best fit clocking on the bench. It's damn near perfect now.

I reassembled it and the bearings slid right into the bore. No press fit whatsoever. When I raise and lower the chuck, the pulley assy stays put now. But, when I rotate it I can see the outer ring of the lower bearing turning in it's bore. I'm still thinking Green Loctite. Someone at work mentioned Blue will work good enough here and I might agree. The bearings had to be driven out with a brass drift punch during disassembly so I'm still struggling with root cause. I remember FrankLee had one similar to this in one of his posts. Please advise.

 

[FrankLee]

There's a lot going on here.

I'm having a problem reassembling my "80". I installed the quill first as directed by another post so the splined shaft would guide the pulley bearings straight into their seats. I tapped the pulley with it's two bearings and spacer down the shaft until it seated against the C clip. I thought everything was ok until I was adjusting the quill retract spring. When I got it set close to about where it needed to be, I noticed that when I raised the quill it pushed the pulley bearings up out of their seats. This should be a press fit. I don't understand what's going on. I tried fitting an old bearing in the upper seat and it slides easily in just like the new bearings. It doesn't look like the case halves have separated any so how is this fit not tight any more? I'm thinking the answer here is it was held together by old grease before and now that it's cleaned up it needs some green loctite on the bearing seats. Please advise.

Firstly, I don't believe the spindle pulley bearings should be a press fit for the outer race. I do believe you are correct about old dirt and grease holding the assembly in place.

Secondly, if the spindle collar is pushing the pulley bearings up out of their seats, it sounds like the spindle retaining screws are not installed.

Review this post:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4880745&post4880745

Thirdly, I don't use any LocTite on the outer race. It doesn't bother me that the outer race turns some on initial start-up. With the belt installed, it will apply side pressure on the bearings and minimize turning. The inner race? Yes, I absolutely apply a minimal amount of LocTite. I don't want the inner race spinning on the softer alloy casting pulley shaft. They can wear too easily. Also, I've seen too many worn pulley shafts to believe that the pulley bearings were not pressed onto the pulley shaft. I think they were a slip fit from the factory.

Review this post:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4771515&post4771515

 

[FrankLee]

If you don’t have the feed stop collar on (and all the way seated) and an o-ring or original gasket above the collar, then the quill will travel far enough to push the spindle pulley out.

I agree. Verify that the feed stop collar is fully seated and the bolt and nut on feed stop collar is tight enough (but not too tight).

They are all in place. I have to admit I had some trouble getting the splines to match. Slight tapping with a brass hammer caused the interference points to gouge the spline surfaces inside the pulley which I then filed off with needle files until it fit. I'm still not sure how this happened as the splines wouldn't mate properly no matter how I aligned them. Maybe I need to do a little better filing job inside the pulley splines. Maybe I screwed up too.

Probably got some burrs on the insides then. Shouldn't have to use a hammer at all.

Take it all apart and slide the splines in and out of the spindle pulley, outside of the headstock and see if it grabs.

I took it back apart and examined the quill splines with magnification and my fingers and filed off even the slightest imperfections. I did the same with the inside of the pulley splines under a stereo microscope with needle files. I cleaned everything up real good and found the best fit clocking on the bench. It's damn near perfect now.

I reassembled it and the bearings slid right into the bore. No press fit whatsoever. When I raise and lower the chuck, the pulley assy stays put now. But, when I rotate it I can see the outer ring of the lower bearing turning in it's bore. I'm still thinking Green Loctite. Someone at work mentioned Blue will work good enough here and I might agree. The bearings had to be driven out with a brass drift punch during disassembly so I'm still struggling with root cause. I remember FrankLee had one similar to this in one of his posts. Please advise.

The splines should not need to match the original orientation. My guess is that the end of the spindle was mushroomed somehow. I've seen it multiple times.

What style of spindle pulley bearing do you have? Sealed or shielded? I avoid sealed bearings for the spindle pulley because of the increased friction of the seal on the inner race.

 

[RHJO51]

Ok I've been thinking about this and I think I got the perfect solution, that is if the product works as good as I've seen it shown.

I remember a product I saw on TV like 15 years ago called Alumaloy. It's like a brazing rod of aluminum alloy and is damn near as strong as aluminum (39,000 PSI vs regular aluminum at 42,000). But the kicker is that the melting point is like 728F compared to regular aluminum at 1220 F. Another benefit is that it doesn't stick to steel (unless it's galvanized).

Ok so here is the process.

Get a steel rod to act like a plug and help mold the ends of the spline. Actually if you are going to do this process just forget the plug and alumaloy the whole interior of the pulley (making splines the whole length of the pulley shaft.)

Alumaloy the interior of the shaft.

Bore out the inner diameter (need to do it on a lathe to center it).

Then using a shaper, rotary broach, etc make the interior splines.

Done and it as good as new if not better if you do the longer splines.


Now this should also work for shafts that are worn due to inner races spinning.

Add alumaloy around the entire area that is worn down and just chuck it up in a lathe and turn it down to the correct diameter. I mic'd 0.984" (inner diameter of bearing is 0.98425")

Product sells for $30 a lbs on amazon.

And I found the old infomercial:

That's an interesting idea although I don't have ready access to a lathe etc., to cut splines. I can tell you I've been searching and posting all over to find the elusive golden spindle pulley but no luck so far. Even thought about purchasing another DP ($100) for the part but then I still have the same problem -doh... Googled splined coupler and see some but not clear if they are the right size or how I'd use them. Very frustrating.

 

[Smokeshow69]

That's an interesting idea although I don't have ready access to a lathe etc., to cut splines. I can tell you I've been searching and posting all over to find the elusive golden spindle pulley but no luck so far. Even thought about purchasing another DP ($100) for the part but then I still have the same problem -doh... Googled splined coupler and see some but not clear if they are the right size or how I'd use them. Very frustrating.

There is parts from a 100 model on eBay right now including the spindle pulley !


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[Outlawmws]

FYI, Splines are not cut on a Lathe.

• The pulleys with use a broach
• The shaft, typically on a horizontal mill, or if you are daring, a shaper.

 

[skrap metal]

that thing is a work of art.

 

[RHJO51]

Question on electric motor. I have a Craftsman 1/2 hp split phase motor for Craftsman DP I'm working on and need to know how to adjust the "points" in the endcap that engage the starter. This motor is model 113 19352 and it's a sleeve motor - no bearings. Tried to show what I'm talking about in the pic. What is the gap and is there other settings here. Thanks for your help.

 

[FrankLee]

Question on electric motor. I have a Craftsman 1/2 hp split phase motor for Craftsman DP I'm working on and need to know how to adjust the "points" in the endcap that engage the starter. This motor is model 113 19352 and it's a sleeve motor - no bearings. Tried to show what I'm talking about in the pic. What is the gap and is there other settings here. Thanks for your help.

There is no specified gap measurement as far as I know. The switch is either opened during running or closed during idle/start-up. The centrifugal switch on the rotor controls that.

The only maintenance might be to clean the contacts with a small file, sandpaper, or emery cloth.

Also, verify that the springs on the switch are still good and the disk on the switch moves freely when the weights are moved.




This morning, I picked up this grinder/stand combo. The grinder is the same 397.19590 model as the last one I got. It was poorly repainted, has a cracked eye shield, and a dented lamp reflector, but runs nicely! It also has two relatively new stone wheels.

​

 

[Outlawmws]

Agreed, its not like points in a car; its on or off.

 

[RHJO51]

Thanks guys. I did clean the contacts and I guess I'll try some settings tow see what works best. Thanks

 

[ZBear]

Hello. Working my way thru all the posts. My father bought a 150 DP before he passed away in 1963 at age 30. My step-father used the DP in his blacksmith shop until he passed away a couple months ago. Since it was my father's, I was able to get my hands on it. I removed the grease caked motor last week and sent it to the local electrical shop to be cleaned and rebuilt. The power cord was pretty funky and had exposed wiring. I don't think it was original but more shall be revealed. I am in the process of removing 60 years of grime and will have to repaint it. Likely original bronze. The head band is rusted and lettering is worn off. By chance did anyone ever make a vinyl or metal replacement? Other than that, just a lot of elbow grease.

 

[FrankLee]

Hello. Working my way thru all the posts. My father bought a 150 DP before he passed away in 1963 at age 30. My step-father used the DP in his blacksmith shop until he passed away a couple months ago. Since it was my father's, I was able to get my hands on it. I removed the grease caked motor last week and sent it to the local electrical shop to be cleaned and rebuilt. The power cord was pretty funky and had exposed wiring. I don't think it was original but more shall be revealed. I am in the process of removing 60 years of grime and will have to repaint it. Likely original bronze. The head band is rusted and lettering is worn off. By chance did anyone ever make a vinyl or metal replacement? Other than that, just a lot of elbow grease.

Hello Z and welcome!

I can't recall ever seeing a Craftsman 150 repop trim piece. If you're not a purist, you may be able to do something creative with the old piece.

The only other option is to find a replacement from a donor machine or ebay. There's one on ebay at the moment, but it's outrageously priced and in poor condition.

Anyway, we need pictures! Before, during and after your refurb.

 

[Shiftless]

Zbear:
Frank said...
I can't recall ever seeing a Craftsman 150 repop trim piece. If you're not a purist, you may be able to do something creative with the old piece.

I had a similar problem with my model 100. I decided to salvage the damaged band that came with my DP by using fine sandpaper to even out the damage and leave a brushed aluminum finish. It came out pretty well but finally ended up using the spare headband I got from JZiggy.
If you go the brushed aluminum route, I would clear coat it prior to installation to preserve the freshly brushed appearance.
I still have my brushed headband if you want it.

 

[Warped5]

You can also get Mylar film on eBay that has an engine-turned pattern.

 

[FrankLee]

I had a similar problem with my model 100. I decided to salvage the damaged band that came with my DP by using fine sandpaper to even out the damage and leave a brushed aluminum finish. It came out pretty well but finally ended up using the spare headband I got from JZiggy.
If you go the brushed aluminum route, I would clear coat it prior to installation to preserve the freshly brushed appearance.
I still have my brushed headband if you want it.

You can also get Mylar film on eBay that has an engine-turned pattern.

Yes, the self adhesive film looks and works great on a 100 trim panel. It would also work well on a 150, but you'd still need a crown-logo badge or sticker.

 

[ZBear]

The head unit was so greasy after 40+ years in a blacksmith shop I sprayed it twice with engine cleaner and took it to the car wash. Lots of rust was revealed so I am thinking it will have to have everything painted, removed and repainted. Anything chrome is pretty pitted, not sure what I can do to them. The quill seems pretty decent, no play. I took some semi-chrome polish to the headband. It cleaned it somewhat but it is rough. The big issue I see there is a chunk missing on the pulley on top of the quill. I will get some pictures next time I go down to my bike shed. I should of taken pictures of the motor before I sent it to be checked out. I haven't seen one with wiring like it was. There were four individual wires going thru grommets into the motor. It was so greasy and the wires were damaged and bare, I didn't want to fool with it and didn't look for a nameplate. It needs a lot of TLC but I have so little from my father from years ago, I want to make this work for me.

 

[sheltonfilms]

The head unit was so greasy after 40+ years in a blacksmith shop I sprayed it twice with engine cleaner and took it to the car wash. Lots of rust was revealed so I am thinking it will have to have everything painted, removed and repainted. Anything chrome is pretty pitted, not sure what I can do to them. The quill seems pretty decent, no play. I took some semi-chrome polish to the headband. It cleaned it somewhat but it is rough. The big issue I see there is a chunk missing on the pulley on top of the quill. I will get some pictures next time I go down to my bike shed. I should of taken pictures of the motor before I sent it to be checked out. I haven't seen one with wiring like it was. There were four individual wires going thru grommets into the motor. It was so greasy and the wires were damaged and bare, I didn't want to fool with it and didn't look for a nameplate. It needs a lot of TLC but I have so little from my father from years ago, I want to make this work for me.

If you can’t stand the pitting on the chrome pieces you can probably sand the chrome off and polish the cast aluminum underneath to a mirror finish. On the ‘47 I have it had the painted version of the handles but all the paint is gone. Some time with various sandpaper’s (120,220,340,400,600,800,1000,1500) and some mag/aluminum polish and you got yourself a showroom piece.

The part I like about this is you can also get rid of the casting lines/imperfections while you are at it.

In the pics I only have the outward face polished.

 

[ZBear]

If you can’t stand the pitting on the chrome pieces you can probably sand the chrome off and polish the cast aluminum underneath to a mirror finish. On the ‘47 I have it had the painted version of the handles but all the paint is gone. Some time with various sandpaper’s (120,220,340,400,600,800,1000,1500) and some mag/aluminum polish and you got yourself a showroom piece.

The part I like about this is you can also get rid of the casting lines/imperfections while you are at it.

In the pics I only have the outward face polished.

Very Nice. If I get off my ****, I will go out to Harley shed and take some pics. I had amputations on my foot so slow getting around. Foot won't heal. Had 9th operation a couple months back. ***** getting old. Thx, Bear