Craftsman Drill Press

[ZBear]

Hello Z and welcome!

I can't recall ever seeing a Craftsman 150 repop trim piece. If you're not a purist, you may be able to do something creative with the old piece.

The only other option is to find a replacement from a donor machine or ebay. There's one on ebay at the moment, but it's outrageously priced and in poor condition.

Anyway, we need pictures! Before, during and after your refurb.

Here are a couple pictures. It looks worse with all the caked on grease removed but there will be a lot of mineral spirits to be used plus wire wheel I am afraid. The shop had a smoky forge near everything was soot covered and ground metal dust. By spring hoping it looks a lot better.

 

[ZBear]

If you can’t stand the pitting on the chrome pieces you can probably sand the chrome off and polish the cast aluminum underneath to a mirror finish. On the ‘47 I have it had the painted version of the handles but all the paint is gone. Some time with various sandpaper’s (120,220,340,400,600,800,1000,1500) and some mag/aluminum polish and you got yourself a showroom piece.

The part I like about this is you can also get rid of the casting lines/imperfections while you are at it.

In the pics I only have the outward face polished.

Here are the handles. Like the rest of the DP, they need a lot of work.

 

[sheltonfilms]

Definitely needs some TLC.

Looking at the chrome pieces, specifically on the return spring adjust and quill lock, try some 0000 steel wool on them first with a little wd40 or oil with light pressure. You may find a result your are content with.

You can make some handles and do what Frank did and put Craftsman screwdriver grips on them.

Biggest issue will be getting a replacement spindle pulley. Those things aren't cheap on ebay. I've seen them go from $80-$100.

 

[ZBear]

Definitely needs some TLC.

Looking at the chrome pieces, specifically on the return spring adjust and quill lock, try some 0000 steel wool on them first with a little wd40 or oil with light pressure. You may find a result your are content with.

You can make some handles and do what Frank did and put Craftsman screwdriver grips on them.

Biggest issue will be getting a replacement spindle pulley. Those things aren't cheap on ebay. I've seen them go from $80-$100.

I have the handles. I just removed them for transit and cleaning. I didn't want to break them.

 

[FrankLee]

Here are a couple pictures. It looks worse with all the caked on grease removed but there will be a lot of mineral spirits to be used plus wire wheel I am afraid. The shop had a smoky forge near everything was soot covered and ground metal dust. By spring hoping it looks a lot better.

Here are the handles. Like the rest of the DP, they need a lot of work.

I've had a couple machines in similar condition. Yes, a lot of work, but you'll get there one piece at a time. It looks like a model 103.23520 or 103.23521.

Regarding the spindle pulley... I've seen quite a few that were broken like that. My first machine had the largest pulley cleanly cut off. I didn't even know it until I had my third or fourth machine. I think it had been broken like yours when a previous owner tried to pry it out of the head frame without really knowing how it was secured. I had the middle pulley, so speed was not an issue. You should be able to get ~771 rpm with the smallest motor pulley and the second step of the spindle pulley.

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[slothfryk]

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Frank what type of belt is that? Looks like a linked system. Very cool!

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[FrankLee]

Frank what type of belt is that? Looks like a linked system. Very cool!

That's an AccuLink belt from harbor freight. I really don't use them anymore.

 

[slothfryk]

That's an AccuLink belt from harbor freight. I really don't use them anymore.

I avoid HF like the plague. Thanks for the warning.

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[Outlawmws]

I also avoid HF, however The link belts from HF are not made in China like so much else from there last I saw.

What Frank was saying I believe was he doesn't use linked belts...

 

[slothfryk]

What Frank was saying I believe was he doesn't use linked belts...

Thanks for the clarification, Outlaw. I hadn't read about the linked belts on Frank's belt post, so I had assumed it was either a new thing or failed experiment. Anyone mind if we discuss the merits here? I'm used to chains for transfer of power and longevity. Does a linked belt begin to cross the boundary between belts and chains?

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[Outlawmws]

It's probably been discussed many times and many places...

Crossing that boundary: Not really IMO.

Some Pros:

• can be strung any length
• disassembly is not required to install (some lathes/mills...)
• won't take a "set" over time so may be smoother

Some Cons:

• not sure if it grips better of less; Seen claims both ways
• Is probably less tolerant of badly worn sheaves

I'm sure others will chime in. Frank mentioned he stopped using them; I'm sure he will say why

 

[ZBear]

I've had a couple machines in similar condition. Yes, a lot of work, but you'll get there one piece at a time. It looks like a model 103.23520 or 103.23521.

Regarding the spindle pulley... I've seen quite a few that were broken like that. My first machine had the largest pulley cleanly cut off. I didn't even know it until I had my third or fourth machine. I think it had been broken like yours when a previous owner tried to pry it out of the head frame without really knowing how it was secured. I had the middle pulley, so speed was not an issue. You should be able to get ~771 rpm with the smallest motor pulley and the second step of the spindle pulley.

​

Thank you for your input. When I was out taking a couple pictures, I can see the belt wear pattern was on the 2nd largest pulley. That's where I guess this one will end up until when or if I ever get a replacement. I have been thinking about this for a while: the amount of rust that is on it. In the last 12 years ago or so the blacksmith shop this DP in was flooded twice. My step-father couldn't get all his equipment out and this DP was on a stand. I don't think it took water in above the base but sitting in a water saturated atmosphere (humidity) for a couple weeks or longer caused rust in any exposed spot. Lots of work ahead. Again, thanks.

 

[FrankLee]

It's probably been discussed many times and many places...

Crossing that boundary: Not really IMO.

Some Pros:

• can be strung any length
• disassembly is not required to install (some lathes/mills...)
• won't take a "set" over time so may be smoother

Some Cons:

• not sure if it grips better of less; Seen claims both ways
• Is probably less tolerant of badly worn sheaves

I'm sure others will chime in. Frank mentioned he stopped using them; I'm sure he will say why

Another pro for linked belts is that they can be quieter than standard v-belts.
Another con is that they are expensive... much more expensive than traditional v-belts.

Many guys swear by them. I reversed my position on using them because of the cost and, IMO, they are too coarse for the softer cast pulleys and just a tad wider than standard v-belts. I only use cogged belts.

 

[ZBear]

You can also get Mylar film on eBay that has an engine-turned pattern.

I ordered this sheet of decals from Sears today for just over $10. I'm thinking if I can find the mylar on ebay, maybe there is the correct decal I can use for a headband. It is in stock so maybe I can grab it Tuesday.

Can you tell me what to find the correct mylar on ebay under? I haven't had much luck so far. Thanks, Bear

 

[FrankLee]

I ordered this sheet of decals from Sears today for just over $10. I'm thinking if I can find the mylar on ebay, maybe there is the correct decal I can use for a headband. It is in stock so maybe I can grab it Tuesday.

Can you tell me what to find the correct mylar on ebay under? I haven't had much luck so far. Thanks, Bear

IIRC, I bought my first order of engine-turned, self-adhesive film via ebay. When I received it, I realized the seller, Metro Restyling, is based only a few miles from me. I can't find them on ebay at this time, but you can order directly from their website. Sheets are 24" wide and can be ordered in one foot increments. Prices are very reasonable too. 24" is the perfect width for the head frame panels. One 12" x 24" sheet can cover several head frame panels.

They have several styles of engine-turned vinyl, but you'll want the small circles. Because the Craftsman 150 trim panel is basically a gold color, I think the Metro Small Gold Engine Turn Vinyl would be a good choice... especially on a power-bronze head frame. Below are pictures of a sample of gold against the power bronze paint.

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If you haven't seen them yet, here are links to two posts that show how I've used the film.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4682592&post4682592
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6060823#post6060823


Regarding stickers, this ebay seller has a set of three crown logo stickers. The 4" x 1½" sticker may work well on top of the engine turned vinyl.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/182915059061

 

[ZBear]

IIRC, I bought my first order of engine-turned, self-adhesive film via ebay. When I received it, I realized the seller, Metro Restyling, is based only a few miles from me. I can't find them on ebay at this time, but you can order directly from their website. Sheets are 24" wide and can be ordered in one foot increments. Prices are very reasonable too. 24" is the perfect width for the head frame panels. One 12" x 24" sheet can cover several head frame panels.

They have several styles of engine-turned vinyl, but you'll want the small circles. Because the Craftsman 150 trim panel is basically a gold color, I think the Metro Small Gold Engine Turn Vinyl would be a good choice... especially on a power-bronze head frame. Below are pictures of a sample of gold against the power bronze paint.

​

If you haven't seen them yet, here are links to two posts that show how I've used the film.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4682592&post4682592
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6060823#post6060823


Regarding stickers, this ebay seller has a set of three crown logo stickers. The 4" x 1½" sticker may work well on top of the engine turned vinyl.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/182915059061

Thanks for the link. I plan to get a sheet ordered today. The ebay seller with the logo looks like the same thing I am picking up from Sears this week. My final step on the head band will be the correct font of "150". I am sorting thru 1" numbers on the internet hoping to find the "right" ones. Again thanks, Bear

 

[FrankLee]

I finally finished the Craftsman sander that I picked up several weeks ago. It's actually a conglomeration of various bits and pieces; the Craftsman sander, two Craftsman drill press tables, a Walker-Turner drill press column, and an Atlas drill press base.

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I didn't have a recommended 3450 rpm motor, but I did have this Craftsman bench grinder carcass. It works just as well!

​

 

[Craptain]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Excellent Frank. That deserves a place in the repurposing thread.

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[Outlawmws]

That's almost Rube Goldberg-ish! Very cool!

 

[FrankLee]

IIRC, I bought my first order of engine-turned, self-adhesive film via ebay. When I received it, I realized the seller, Metro Restyling, is based only a few miles from me. I can't find them on ebay at this time, but you can order directly from their website. Sheets are 24" wide and can be ordered in one foot increments. Prices are very reasonable too. 24" is the perfect width for the head frame panels. One 12" x 24" sheet can cover several head frame panels.

They have several styles of engine-turned vinyl, but you'll want the small circles. Because the Craftsman 150 trim panel is basically a gold color, I think the Metro Small Gold Engine Turn Vinyl would be a good choice... especially on a power-bronze head frame.

Regarding stickers, this ebay seller has a set of three crown logo stickers. The 4" x 1½" sticker may work well on top of the engine turned vinyl.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/182915059061

Here's the Craftsman 150 drill press I picked up last July. It was very dirty and grimy.

​

The head frame panel trim piece was beat up badly and not really suitable to be reused as is. So, I tried the Metro Small Gold Engine Turn Vinyl I mentioned above. The Craftsman sticker is a tad small, but it's the largest I could find that wasn't too big.

Yea or nay?

​

 

[Outlawmws]

Looks great Frank!

 

[BlueHeart]

So I've been reading this thread recently because I finally have a garage that is mine. I'd love to have a drill press and vintage power tools are very intriguing. I've been looking on CL, but I really don't know what a good DP is or what's a good price. It seems FrankLee has cornered the mkt in MI. Lol.
What should I be looking for? Thanks!

 

[ZBear]

Here's the Craftsman 150 drill press I picked up last July. It was very dirty and grimy.

​

The head frame panel trim piece was beat up badly and not really suitable to be reused as is. So, I tried the Metro Small Gold Engine Turn Vinyl I mentioned above. The Craftsman sticker is a tad small, but it's the largest I could find that wasn't too big.

Yea or nay?

​

I was able to get the headpiece and base off the pipe today. Started taking wire brush on grinder to remove rust and paint. I will take some pictures today. Going to bring laptop out to shed to follow your instructions on removal of quill assembly out. I have a friend that has a sand blaster at work I have used before. I may try to take pieces over there. Sure glad you have tutorial for us amateurs.

 

[FrankLee]

So I've been reading this thread recently because I finally have a garage that is mine. I'd love to have a drill press and vintage power tools are very intriguing. I've been looking on CL, but I really don't know what a good DP is or what's a good price. It seems FrankLee has cornered the mkt in MI. Lol.
What should I be looking for? Thanks!

If you're searching for a vintage fixer-upper, replacement parts availability should be a high priority. Atlas, Craftsman or Delta are probably your best bet. There are lots of research resources online.

Please add your location to your profile. Prices vary widely by region.

 

[FrankLee]

I was able to get the headpiece and base off the pipe today. Started taking wire brush on grinder to remove rust and paint. I will take some pictures today. Going to bring laptop out to shed to follow your instructions on removal of quill assembly out. I have a friend that has a sand blaster at work I have used before. I may try to take pieces over there. Sure glad you have tutorial for us amateurs.

Progress is good!

Media blasting is an excellent option if you have a resource. It's probably not necessary to mention, but be sure to protect any machined surface with duct tape or similar. To protect threaded holes, I've used sacrificial bolts.

I'm glad I could help and always look forward to pictures.

 

[BlueHeart]

If you're searching for a vintage fixer-upper, replacement parts availability should be a high priority. Atlas, Craftsman or Delta are probably your best bet. There are lots of research resources here and on OWWM and VM.

Please add your location to your profile. Prices vary widely by region.

Thanks for the references. Weird about the profile...I thought all of it had been updated before...

 

[Outlawmws]

BH what is that rig in your Avatar?

 

[BlueHeart]

BH what is that rig in your Avatar?

It's an Aktiv Snowmaster ST4 groomer. Powered by a VW air cooled engine.

 

[BlueHeart]

These are not mine, but I would like to approach the family some day about restoring one.

 

[Outlawmws]

Very cool! Thanks!

 

[ZBear]

Progress is good!

Media blasting is an excellent option if you have a resource. It's probably not necessary to mention, but be sure to protect any machined surface with duct tape or similar. To protect threaded holes, I've used sacrificial bolts.

I'm glad I could help and always look forward to pictures.

Here are a few pics from the disassembly today. Surprised how easy it went. I retired from Whirlpool last year. My job was tool repair. I have repaired hand tools from Bosch to DeWalt. Battery tools to air tools, just about any tool you can think of in a 60 acre factory, so this wasn't too bad. Looks like bearings are in really good shape for as greasy as the whole thing was. Started knocking some of the rust off the head.

 

[ZBear]

The headband will need the Mylar & Decal treatment. The pulley is on my list to find. The quill and other parts are in pretty good shape, just needs a lot of cleaning.

 

[ZBear]

The last thing is I sent the motor to a local electric shop. I wish I had went a different direction. Besides costing a boat load of money, and after all (most) of the grease was cleaned off, it is not a Craftsman motor. I can't hardly read the plate but I think it says Frigidare Motor, and the faded word Delco on the lower part. It has a home made bracket torched together to make it fit, that makes sense since my step father had a blacksmith shop. He probably had the motor and put it on. It probably was off a Frigidaire refrigerator or freezer. My brother said he had four Craftsman motors in the top of his shed. They were off vintage table saws and one was like new. Only thing they were too fast. None 1725 rpm. Beside looking for a variable speed pulley for the top of the quill, correct motor is on my list. I have a vintage Craftsman bench grinder and if I have to, buy another grinder and put this one on the drill.

 

[Outlawmws]

Z-bear, that "grinder" is actually a DP motor with add on arbors on it. Most grinders are 3450 or 3600 RPM.

Get on the lookout for a Craftsman Block or Pre-Block grinder and hopefully it will come with guards, side shields and the eye shields... and use that other for the DP. It's even about the right era (can't read the date code...)

 

[FrankLee]

Here are a few pics from the disassembly today. Surprised how easy it went. I retired from Whirlpool last year. My job was tool repair. I have repaired hand tools from Bosch to DeWalt. Battery tools to air tools, just about any tool you can think of in a 60 acre factory, so this wasn't too bad. Looks like bearings are in really good shape for as greasy as the whole thing was. Started knocking some of the rust off the head.

The headband will need the Mylar & Decal treatment. The pulley is on my list to find. The quill and other parts are in pretty good shape, just needs a lot of cleaning.

The last thing is I sent the motor to a local electric shop. I wish I had went a different direction. Besides costing a boat load of money, and after all (most) of the grease was cleaned off, it is not a Craftsman motor. I can't hardly read the plate but I think it says Frigidare Motor, and the faded word Delco on the lower part. It has a home made bracket torched together to make it fit, that makes sense since my step father had a blacksmith shop. He probably had the motor and put it on. It probably was off a Frigidaire refrigerator or freezer. My brother said he had four Craftsman motors in the top of his shed. They were off vintage table saws and one was like new. Only thing they were too fast. None 1725 rpm. Beside looking for a variable speed pulley for the top of the quill, correct motor is on my list. I have a vintage Craftsman bench grinder and if I have to, buy another grinder and put this one on the drill.

Excellent! Thanks for the pictures! After media blasting and repainting, it will be a new machine. A greasy, grimy machine is a double-edged sword. Lots of extra work and materials, but it does preserve the moving parts.

Too bad about the motor. Chalk it up to an expensive lesson learned. We've all been there.

Z-bear, that "grinder" is actually a DP motor with add on arbors on it. Most grinders are 3450 or 3600 RPM.

Get on the lookout for a Craftsman Block or Pre-Block grinder and hopefully it will come with guards, side shields and the eye shields... and use that other for the DP. It's even about the right era (can't read the date code...)

I agree with Outlaw, that makeshift grinder (a '53?) is a prefect motor for the drill press.

The pulley on the Fridigaire motor looks rather large. A smaller step pulley that matches the spindle pulley may be beneficial too.

 

[sheltonfilms]

I'm starting to think that headband maybe salvageable. Is that a bunch of rust on it? If so just give it a bath of white vinegar, taking it out every hour, and brushing it with a toothbrush. The red letters can be repainted back on.

x3 on the "grinder"

 

[littleponderosa]

Gents, I've just purchased a new to me craftsman drill press. Craigslist. Machine is in the fellas basement. Easier to disassemble and move, or just pick it up and go? Per the seller it's right at 200lbs.
Bill

 

[Outlawmws]

You alone or how many minions?

Bench or Floor stander?

Straight shot out, or landings?

 

[FrankLee]

Gents, I've just purchased a new to me craftsman drill press. Craigslist. Machine is in the fellas basement. Easier to disassemble and move, or just pick it up and go? Per the seller it's right at 200lbs.
Bill

You're going to get opinions on both disassembling and moving it whole. I am on the correct side of that fence by rather being safe than sorry. Take it apart. Here's what I do: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5362688&post5362688


Occasionally, the condition of the machine will prevent dismantling. In those cases, at minimum, the motor can still be removed. Additionally, any knobs, feed handles, and levers that stick out which can be bent or broken should be removed.

 

[littleponderosa]

Frankie, thank you sir! That is very workable for me. Seller seems like a good dude. I now have photo capabilities back and I'll post it for advice.
Seller believes it's the last model with a metal housing, I'm just learning but I don't think I did too bad for $45.00
Bill