Outlawmws
Well-known member
Frank. Dunlap branding ran from 1941 -63, and I'm pretty sure motors were an early convert. May not have made it to the end.
Craftsman Drill Press
- Thread starter FrankLee
- Start date
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Looks like 41-58 for Dunlap motors.
ZBear
Well-known member
I saw this critter on Facebook Marketplace. (OK I'm hooked, If I found another...). I can't see the top very well. Is it an older Craftsman? It is in Illinios. Thanks, Bear
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2151357178224544
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2151357178224544
ZBear
Well-known member
Here is one in Muscatine Iowa. They want $125 for each of the drill press and jig saw or $200 for the pair.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/419556341819297
Outlawmws
Well-known member
The first one looks like it might be an atlas built DP (predating the KS DP's)
The Elizabeth DP is either an Atlas or Atlas/Craftsman. It's got a production table mount with no means to easily raise or lower the head frame. No table, missing spring ***'y, taper spindle. That motor is a beast.
The Muscatine DP is a later 100 with the non-tilt table. It's a little difficult to tell, but looks repainted. The quill is hanging down some, so there is possibly a spring issue... it could be not adjusted or wonky, or the quill is locked in the down position. The belt cover is home made. The column is rusty, so it's been neglected for a while. The price is OK if you need parts or a refurb.
Did you get the Chevy home? What's the status?
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lafester
Well-known member
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
I would take the 2 for $200 deal and flip the saw for $125 - $150.
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I would take the 2 for $200 deal and flip the saw for $125 - $150.
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Definitely Atlas, but not sure of year. It has a 3-spoke handle, where most were 4 (like my 1941). The power switch is also on the left side--not the usual toggle switch on right--so it might have been originally a 3-phase model.
That huge motor and lack of any lift would make it impractical for an old guy like me.....
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PrestonT23
Member
Hey all,
Just picked up Craftsman 103.23141, my first drill press. I'm trying to figure out what spindle pulley I have sine it appears to be different then what I'm seeing in other pictures. The part number is 27415-103, but it only has 3 steps. from what I've seen, it seems that they typically have 4 steps, as my motor does. Anyone have any ideas? is it original?
Preston
Just picked up Craftsman 103.23141, my first drill press. I'm trying to figure out what spindle pulley I have sine it appears to be different then what I'm seeing in other pictures. The part number is 27415-103, but it only has 3 steps. from what I've seen, it seems that they typically have 4 steps, as my motor does. Anyone have any ideas? is it original?
Preston
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lafester
Well-known member
Pretty sure it's not original. Looks good though otherwise.
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Welcome Preston,
That is very interesting! I've never seen anything like it. If it's original, it was possibly a prototype for some change, feature or attachment.
It almost looks like a flat-belt pulley, but it's pretty small diameter. What are the dimensions of the cylinder?
There's one hole shown. Are there any other holes around the cylinder?
Does that cylinder appear to be welded on or do you think it was cast that way?
What does the top look like?
Does the spindle hole continue up through the cylinder?
There is a bolt or something attached to the side of the head frame casting. Is there another on the other side? Related to the pulley perhaps.
What is the date code on the motor information plate?
Regardless... more pictures please!
Also, please update your GJ profile with your general location.
Does not look at all like factory pulley. Looks like someone integrated a spindle guard onto the pulley.
PrestonT23
Member
Guys,
Thanks for the responses. I'll take lots of pictures and measurements when I get off work. Also, I'm in Northern California. I also ordered JZiggy's slow speed setup. I'm interested in disassembling the press, paining it and rebuilding it.
Thanks for the responses. I'll take lots of pictures and measurements when I get off work. Also, I'm in Northern California. I also ordered JZiggy's slow speed setup. I'm interested in disassembling the press, paining it and rebuilding it.
sheltonfilms
Well-known member
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- May 28, 2014
- Messages
- 157
It’s definitely the factory part number. I wonder if they added it to use a treadmill motor?
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Outlawmws
Well-known member
That almost looks like it is an intermediate third pulley setup? Are you sure its part of the spindle?
PrestonT23
Member
It was installed on the spindle when I bought it.
The cylinder on top is original to the casting, I don't believe it was added.
I took as many pictures as made sense with and without measurements.
What do you'll think?
The cylinder on top is original to the casting, I don't believe it was added.
I took as many pictures as made sense with and without measurements.
What do you'll think?
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PrestonT23
Member
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Is the OD concentric to the ID? 'cause those three holes on top certainly are not!
I think possibly someone aced the original drive splines and a machinist made something up to repair the original pulley...
I think possibly someone aced the original drive splines and a machinist made something up to repair the original pulley...
sheltonfilms
Well-known member
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- May 28, 2014
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- 157
That top part is it ferrous? Magnet stick to it?
Wonder if they added it to add more mass like a flywheel to cut down on vibrations and dampen rotational speed pulses.
Wonder if they added it to add more mass like a flywheel to cut down on vibrations and dampen rotational speed pulses.
lafester
Well-known member
That is too weird. Does it fit over the top step? The real question is how to get it off of there.
That is certainly unique !! I can’t guess as to why it was machined the way it is.. but let’s face it most of these machines have a almost a 70 year history and Each machine shows its unique history ...
It definitely looks to me that an original pulley was machined for repair or adaptation at some point.. who ever did this work was certainly skilled...
?? Other than noticing it was different ... did you have an issue with the pulley running / functioning ?? Out of balance ?? Bearing noises ??
Wow.
I think the cylinder was welded to the pulley. That 0.7285" ID measurement is an important clue. Another clue is that there are no seam marks from the casting mold on the side of upper cylinder like there is on the pulley steps.
I measured a regular pulley ID at ~0.7460". If you use a hooked probe inside that bore, can you feel a ridge inside the bore where the cylinder meets the pulley?
We'll likely never know what purpose it served.
What about those bolts(?) on the side of the head frame?
Welcome to the Craftsman DP club and this thread! The only "dues" here is that you post pictures and participate.
You're referring to a feed stop nut? The 150's had a rapid adjust feed stop. The stop collar was a four-piece assembly that had 5/8-12(?) Acme threads that matched the feed stop rod. I believe acme nuts are available, but they were pricey when I looked into them.
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PrestonT23
Member
Outlawmws said:
After some quick measurements, they do not seem to be concentric.
sheltonfilms said:
Non-Ferrous.
Cjmac said:
I haven't put it under any load but it appears to be running smoothly. run-out was about .007, off my cheap dial indicator.
FrankLee said:
I tried with the hooks I have but, I don't have any small enough at this time to check this.
Thanks all for your insight. I would like to find an original pulley with 4 steps, since this only has the 3. anyone have any ideas where to get one? I'm guessing just look out on eBay?
Yes... eBay or donor machine.
An original unmolested pulley would be nice, but franklee, unless you're going to use your drill press for shaper functions, you're never going to use that smallest pulley.
Using the smallest step on an original pulley will get your chuck speed to 3000-5000 RPMs, depending on the belt position on the motor pulley. That is way too fast for metal or even wood boring. I rarely change my belt configuration from the slowest possible speed.
Some guys want to get their machines back to factory condition, and there's nothing wrong with that. Personally, I would run it as-is and wait for a donor machine to show up... unless balance or vibration were an issue, as Cjmac pointed out.
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slothfryk
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I've been reading this thread for a long while now. I just got the frankly reference. I'm feeling entertained and thick-skulled.
Loving the investigation going on here. I support the theory that this was some skilled individuals attempt to reduce vibration. Perhaps the non-concentric screw holes were intended to mount a plate with adjustable weights for fine tuning, and they were non-concentric to ensure that it mounted in the same position after each removal?
Might be overthinking, but so was the person who designed this mod.
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sheltonfilms
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- 157
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
When the splines of the spindle pulley have wear you get a “clank clank clank” sounds when there is no load in it.
From the pictures I see some wear. A new pulley has almost 0 clearance to the point if it is not perfectly lined up you would think the spindle won’t fit.
The extra inertia to me would help with the clank clank and would smooth out the “power pulses” of a 60Hz single phase motor.
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When the splines of the spindle pulley have wear you get a “clank clank clank” sounds when there is no load in it.
From the pictures I see some wear. A new pulley has almost 0 clearance to the point if it is not perfectly lined up you would think the spindle won’t fit.
The extra inertia to me would help with the clank clank and would smooth out the “power pulses” of a 60Hz single phase motor.
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I like the uniqueness of your pulley!! To me it’s a keeper !! As long as it functions I see no need to replace.. you actually have 4 steps to run a belt.. you could put a locking collar on the extended piece to guide the belt and use as 4th pulley if needed... but others here have already stated that using the smallest size pulley generates too much speed for normal DP operations. So it’s real value would be limited... as far as guessing why the 3 small holes are not centered .. or further guessing why the pulley was modified.. i wouldn’t ... I’d be happy to know the pulley is fine and can be used... given all the hype and interest regarding the unique adaptation .. I’m sure if you ever sell the DP ... Frank Lee will some day acquire it and he will know exactly where it came from !!
PrestonT23
Member
Thanks for the replies everyone 
Ya'll been a great help!
I'll take your advice and keep the pulley, I'm more interested in reducing the speed, hence buying JZiggy's slow speed setup, than increasing it.
I'm going to start the disassembly soon, I'm sure I'll be back with more questions once that has started.
Ya'll been a great help!I'll take your advice and keep the pulley, I'm more interested in reducing the speed, hence buying JZiggy's slow speed setup, than increasing it.
I'm going to start the disassembly soon, I'm sure I'll be back with more questions once that has started.
lafester
Well-known member
Jziggys pulley looks sweet. I'm tempted to get one and sell my OEM.
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Why would you do that? The oem pulley has a pair of industrial grade 6204 ball bearings and is built to last a lifetime. Nothing wrong with the oem version.
I dunno... JZ's pulleys are excellent quality and are also made with bearings. A lot of guys here like them. It's perspective, I guess. If you want function, they both work well. If you insist on original parts, oem.
I'm not sure what oem pulleys go for on ebay these days, when their available, but I think oem's are still more expensive than JZ's. If you want price and availability, JZ.
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My point was that if you already had an oem pulley, it makes sense to keep it. If you need one, then Ziggy's would certainly work fine (and probably cheaper than a used oem version).
lafester
Well-known member
Well unfortunately I am in a situation where cost is an issue. Sure I already have one, but I could also have one that does the same thing + $50 - $100 to invest in another tool. Of course it all depends on what I could get out of it.
Actually I was just wondering why I need $800 or more in dp value when I could trade that for a precision industrial dp, a much better band saw and probably even a starter wood lathe.
Assuming you sold your oem pulley on the auction site (where they tend to pay a premium for such things), you'd need a $216 sale price---plus shipping costs---to make $50 after fees over the cost of Ziggy's pulley. That's a very high price, even if your pulley is in mint shape with fresh bearings. So I don't know how you'd make $50-100....
lafester
Well-known member
Enough have sold over $250 recently to make anything possible. Already conceded that it could also be less then what I would want.
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