Craftsman Drill Press

[Atomsk]

FrankLee,

Thanks a ton for all the information in this thread! It's helped me get my 100 rollin' again! Just got new bearings in the mail for the quill and spindle assembly. Got the spindle bearings off with the help of your DIY bearing puller (thank you for that as well!), but can't get them out of the quill. Didn't see a post (might have missed it) on how to remove them. Any recommendations?

 

[FrankLee]

Seen this critter in Davenport for $60. Looks like it would be a good project for $60 if I wasn't laid up.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/242049896505566/?ref=netego_ssfy_www

I've never had one in that style, but if it were for sale near me, I'd own it already.

FrankLee,

Thanks a ton for all the information in this thread! It's helped me get my 100 rollin' again! Just got new bearings in the mail for the quill and spindle assembly. Got the spindle bearings off with the help of your DIY bearing puller (thank you for that as well!), but can't get them out of the quill. Didn't see a post (might have missed it) on how to remove them. Any recommendations?

Welcome and thanks for your comments!

On early 100's, the spindle will sometimes just slide out of the bearings. That's really the exception. Most times, some kind of press is needed. I don't have extensive shop equipment, so I improvise often. I haven't come up with a simple spindle press yet, but I have used the contraption below.

Unless the quill bearings are very bad, I'll just lubricate them in place.

Please post some pictures of your machine!

 

[larry4406]

Frank - what is the jack screw and cross bar from? Pretty clever!

 

[FrankLee]

Frank - what is the jack screw and cross bar from? Pretty clever!

Thanks! It's just a smaller 7", 6-ton Plomb/Proto 4021 puller.

 

[Atomsk]

Welcome and thanks for your comments!

On early 100's, the spindle will sometimes just slide out of the bearings. That's really the exception. Most times, some kind of press is needed. I don't have extensive shop equipment, so I improvise often. I haven't come up with a simple spindle press yet, but I have used the contraption below.

Unless the quill bearings are very bad, I'll just lubricate them in place.

Please post some pictures of your machine!

The spindle slid right out of the bearings without issue. Now I'm simply left with the quill and 2 bearings pressed in. Might have to find some type of pilot bearing puller. One of the bearings is definitely going bad, so might as well replace them while it's all apart.

 

[FrankLee]

dp#46

The spindle slid right out of the bearings without issue. Now I'm simply left with the quill and 2 bearings pressed in. Might have to find some type of pilot bearing puller. One of the bearings is definitely going bad, so might as well replace them while it's all apart.

Ah, understand. You can simply insert a 12" long, 1/2" wooden dowel or similar into the quill and pound the dowel with quill from the opposite end to remove the bearings. It may damage their shields, but you're going to replace them anyway.

​

09/14/2018

Dp#46 is another '52/'53 Craftsman 100, model 103.23141. It's in rough shape, but worthy of some TLC.

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9/20/2018

This machine is probably the rustiest I've refurbished. As bad as the chuck looks, it actually worked pretty good. It works even better after I dismantled, cleaned and polished the parts. Final cleaning will happen when I can run the machine and sand the chuck sleeve.

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The feed handle rods were also badly rusted. Unlike the chuck, these have some moderate pitting. I'll also attempt to straighten the bent stud on one of the rods.

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The spindle pulley cleaned up nicely.

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The bearings are cleaned, repacked and reinstalled. The head frame is back together.

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9/21/2018

Here is the column after I scrubbed it down with a scotch bright and mineral spirits... still pretty rusty. It's time for a soak in vinegar.

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After two hours of soaking and some scrubbing with vinegar-soaked steel wool, that mess is coming off nicely!

The entire column now looks like the upper half in the photo below right. I'll let it soak for another hour.

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After another soaking, scrubbing and wipe-down with an oil soaked rag, the column looks very good! I couldn't scrub it fast enough to prevent rust flash-over forming. A final sanding will make it shine!

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9/22/2018

I scrubbed the base today. I didn't get a before photo, but it looks so much better after. Still, I think I'll sand that plateau, though.

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9/23/2018

The motor is complete.

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9/24/2018

Dp#46 is complete and runs beautifully!

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[Craptain]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

I was out yesterday with Cbacres and Shorty and we pretty much all spent too much at a sale. But while I was down there I got notice of a sale at home and there carefully hidden in the pictures was a dp. So I brought it back to the shop today for a magnificent $20. It actually runs though it has a couple of issues. I lubed up the spindle and quill with Kroil and it moves freely. But no, or broken return spring. I don't know yet how much effort I will put into it, as I don't really need it and may just flip it more or less as is. I also picked up a working block grinder for $15 at the same sale.


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[bubinga]

Re: dp#46

Ah, understand. You can simply insert a 12" long, 1/2" wooden dowel or similar into the quill and pound the dowel with quill from the opposite end to remove the bearings. It may damage their shields, but you're going to replace them anyway.

​

09/14/2018

Dp#46 is another '52/'53 Craftsman 100, model 103.23141. It's in rough shape, but worthy of some TLC.

​

9/20/2018

This machine is probably the rustiest I've refurbished. As bad as the chuck looks, it actually worked pretty good. It works even better after I dismantled, cleaned and polished the parts. Final cleaning will happen when I can run the machine and sand the chuck sleeve.

​

The feed handle rods were also badly rusted. Unlike the chuck, these have some moderate pitting. I'll also attempt to straighten the bent stud on one of the rods.

​

The spindle pulley cleaned up nicely.

​

The bearings are cleaned, repacked and reinstalled. The head frame is back together.

​

9/21/2018

Here is the column after I scrubbed it down with a scotch bright and mineral spirits... still pretty rusty. It's time for a soak in vinegar.

​

After two hours of soaking and some scrubbing with vinegar-soaked steel wool, that **** is coming off nicely!

The entire column now looks like the upper half in the photo below right. I'll let it soak for another hour.

​

After another soaking, scrubbing and wipe-down with an oil soaked rag, the column looks very good! I couldn't scrub it fast enough to prevent rust flash-over forming. A final sanding will make it shine!

​

Very Nice Always Frank.

 

[bubinga]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

I was out yesterday with Cbacres and Shorty and we pretty much all spent too much at a sale. But while I was down there I got notice of a sale at home and there carefully hidden in the pictures was a dp. So I brought it back to the shop today for a magnificent $20. It actually runs though it has a couple of issues. I lubed up the spindle and quill with Kroil and it moves freely. But no, or broken return spring. I don't know yet how much effort I will put into it, as I don't really need it and may just flip it more or less as is. I also picked up a working block grinder for $15 at the same sale.


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Very Nice, Great Score!!

 

[honza.vosalik]

Saw this DP at an estate sale. if I didn't already have several of these, I'd pay the $100 they asked.

I purchased that attachment today.

 

[paulm12]

I spent a few minutes test fitting my CMan 100 back togehter. All went well. I have some questions on pulleys. The motor pulley that I have is about 1/4" overall taller. I know I can set if properly on one set of pulleys, but will have to adjust to switch speeds. Not a big deal, since this DP will be for wood drilling, so I will probably leave at one speed. But what is a good source for pulleys, and is the step-to-step pitch designated on them?

And are there any concerns using the pulley with the crack (on a different step)? Weight/balance when spinning?

Thanks

 

[bmw57isetta]

paulm12:

I've gotten four-step motor pulleys for DP resto projects from Congress Drive via Amazon. EBay should have them for you as well. They're a perfect fit for pulleys that have had chunks broken out of them like yours. They also include a bushing that allows use with either a 3/8 or 1/2 inch diameter motor shaft. Here's a link to their various sizes/prices:

https://www.amazon.com/CONGRESS-DRI...1&field-lbr_brands_browse-bin=CONGRESS+DRIVES

Keep in mind they're motor pulleys, not splined spindle pulleys that are a different breed of cat. You can also Google "stepped motor pulley" for more sources. Congress Die Cast seems to be the go-to source for these. Expect to pay $25-$30 plus S/H.

Keep us posted on your progress. Those Craftsman 80/100/150 DP's are very gratifying to restore and will probably run forever in good hands.

 

[paulm12]

thanks isetta

 

[FrankLee]

I spent a few minutes test fitting my CMan 100 back togehter. All went well. I have some questions on pulleys. The motor pulley that I have is about 1/4" overall taller. I know I can set if properly on one set of pulleys, but will have to adjust to switch speeds. Not a big deal, since this DP will be for wood drilling, so I will probably leave at one speed. But what is a good source for pulleys, and is the step-to-step pitch designated on them?

And are there any concerns using the pulley with the crack (on a different step)? Weight/balance when spinning?

Thanks

I think I'd lop off that top ring, clean-up the edge and use it. Here's one I fixed:

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Or, since you say you're not likely to change speeds, install another small 2" single-step pulley.

Or, if you think you'd change speeds install a 2" single step pulley AND a 2-1/2" pulley together on the same shaft end. Line them up with the appropriate spindle pulley steps. There are pulleys available that have no collar... the set screw is in the v-groove.

​

 

[paulm12]

Good ideas FrankLee, thanks much.

 

[paulm12]

shout out to FrankLee for the Quill bumper replacement, fits great.
.

 

[FrankLee]

shout out to FrankLee for the Quill bumper replacement, fits great.
.

Thanks!

 

[paulm12]

does anyone know what size chuck removal wedges I need. I have a Jacobs 6A chuck on what I assume is a taper spindle. The diameter of the spindle above the chuck is 5/8". The current gap is around 1/4". I don't know the designations for these chucks and wedges.

I can remove the spindle if needed.

Thanks.

 

[ttpete]

does anyone know what size chuck removal wedges I need. I have a Jacobs 6A chuck on what I assume is a taper spindle. The diameter of the spindle above the chuck is 5/8". The current gap is around 1/4". I don't know the designations for these chucks and wedges.

I can remove the spindle if needed.

Thanks.

The taper should be on the chuck body. It'll say something like 3JT, which is a #3 Jacobs Taper.

 

[FrankLee]

does anyone know what size chuck removal wedges I need. I have a Jacobs 6A chuck on what I assume is a taper spindle. The diameter of the spindle above the chuck is 5/8". The current gap is around 1/4". I don't know the designations for these chucks and wedges.

I can remove the spindle if needed.

Thanks.

The taper should be on the chuck body. It'll say something like 3JT, which is a #3 Jacobs Taper.

You'll need #3 wedge set (Jacobs Catalog Number: 13268) for a 3JT chuck:
http://www.jacobschuck.com/accessories/wedge-set




There are other techniques to remove a chuck. If the drill press is running, clamp a drill bit in a drill press vise and drill through the center of the chuck. You can then tap the hole for a bolt or use a puller to remove the chuck. I had a similar situation, but a previous owner used some kind of adhesive to glue the chuck to the spindle. See my entry dated 7/25/2016 in this post: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5042834&post5042834

 

[paulm12]

thanks Pete, I ordered a set of #3 wedges
FrankLee: I have read thru those hacks/tips, thanks.

 

[bubinga]

You'll need #3 wedge set (Jacobs Catalog Number: 13268) for a 3JT chuck:
http://www.jacobschuck.com/accessories/wedge-set




There are other techniques to remove a chuck. If the drill press is running, clamp a drill bit in a drill press vise and drill through the center of the chuck. You can then tap the hole for a bolt or use a puller to remove the chuck. I had a similar situation, but a previous owner used some kind of adhesive to glue the chuck to the spindle. See my entry dated 7/25/2016 in this post: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5042834&post5042834

Great Idea!

 

[exmaxima1]

The threaded portion above the chuck indicates the drill press had a safety collar on the original chuck, and those chucks are nearly always JT33 taper.

 

[FrankLee]

The threaded portion above the chuck indicates the drill press had a safety collar on the original chuck, and ...

The Jacobs Safe-Lock chuck with the attached safety collar was introduced on Craftsman machines in 1952. At least that's when they first touted the new chuck design in any catalog.
10/1/2018 Edit: Here is evidence from a May 1951 Popular Mechanics magazine advertisement that the Safe-Lock chuck was available earlier. https://books.google.com/books?id=2...tsman drill press&pg=PA239#v=onepage&q&f=true

The threaded portion above the chuck is called the thrust collar. The threaded thrust collar was a feature of many drill presses going way back to the earliest Altas/Craftsman machines from the '30s.

Prior to the Safe-Lock chuck, Craftsman drill presses were equipped with a separate thrust collar nut (it was called a chuck release nut for pre-war Atlas made machines). The thrust collar nut performed the same chuck-removal function as the Safe-Lock. http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/222/4842.pdf

So, the presence of the threaded thrust collar does not necessarily mean that a drill press was originally equipped with a Safe-Lock chuck. Because the thrust collar nut is missing, it likely means that the chuck was removed and reinstalled without the nut.

In 1952, the Jacobs Safe-Lock chuck with a swiveling threaded lock collar (right) was introduced as a standard feature.
http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/222/5579.pdf

 

[exmaxima1]

Prior to the Safe-Lock chuck, Craftsman drill presses were equipped with a separate thrust collar nut (it was called a chuck release nut for pre-war Atlas made machines). The thrust collar nut performed the same chuck-removal function as the Safe-Lock. [url]http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/222/4842.pdf

So, the presence of the threaded thrust collar does not necessarily mean that a drill press was originally equipped with a Safe-Lock chuck. Because the thrust collar nut is missing, it likely means that the chuck was removed and reinstalled without the nut.

Most every chuck I've seen had the collar integrated to the chuck. Like your second pic.

 

[sheltonfilms]

Most every chuck I've seen had the collar integrated to the chuck. Like your second pic.

According to Frank the integrated chuck started in 1952. I know my 56 has it and my 47 doesn't.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4325791&postcount=84

 

[FrankLee]

dp#47

10/6/2018

I picked up dp#47 for a friend on the east coast. You may have seen it in bczygan's post Would someone please buy this?.

It's a floor standing Craftsman 100, model 103.23141, and includes an MSA. The motor is also wired for forward and reverse with a pair of toggle switches installed into the right side of the head frame casting.

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10/7/2018

This morning, I started cleaning the MSA. It was very dirty, but in very nice condition.

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I also removed the spindle pulley assembly. As usual on these older machines without the quill snap ring, the spindle pulley retaining screws are bent and damaged.

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10/8/2018

I completed dismantling the head frame this morning and...

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also de-greased and pressure washed the head frame casting at the self-serve car wash.

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The exterior still had plenty of airborne shop grime after de-greasing, so it got a good scrubbing with Simple Green.

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10/9/2018

I cleaned the hub/pinion/spring assembly and most of the other chrome parts. A few chrome pieces have minor pitting, but they still look great.








I took advantage of the unseasonably warm temperatures and cleaned the base and column in the driveway.

Before:

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After a Simple Green scrub. I can do better:

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Soaking in Zud:

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After a Zud scrub and final rinse:

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After dry:

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There was something coating the column that was insoluble to mineral spirits. I used lacquer thinner with steel wool which did a much better job.

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Here's the column after the first sanding with the finishing sander.

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The paint on the table was scrubbed with Simple Green.

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10/10/2018

I finished the table this morning by sanding the machined surface. I also waxed the table and head frame casting.

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The quill/spindle assembly is cleaned and reassembled.

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The spindle pulley assembly is cleaned and reassembled.

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Many other parts are cleaned.

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10/11/2018

The head frame is back together.

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10/12/2018

I installed the feed stop assembly and ...

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also sanded and waxed the column and assembled the base, column, table and head frame.

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10/13/2018

The chuck was very dirty and needed attention.

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I got it apart and have it soaking in lacquer thinner.

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10/14/2018

Things moved quickly this weekend and had to wrap-up the refurb of this dp and deliver it as is. I finished cleaning the chuck, disassembled the drill press for transport, loaded in the car and delivered it locally.

 

[paulm12]

very nice pickup FrankLee, what are the plans? Just clean-up?

 

[FrankLee]

very nice pickup FrankLee, what are the plans? Just clean-up?

Yes, a complete tear-down and cleaning. The original paint is very good.

 

[paulm12]

just saw your pics and comments on the bent retaining screws. I just hope I always remember to remove those before lifting up the pulleys. And thanks for putting the reference links in your notes, makes it very easy to go back and forth.

 

[sheltonfilms]

Went to an estate sale last weekend to look at an early 100 DP. Asking $200 for it so I decided to pass. It was all there and the spindle pulley had zero slack (worn splines). Paint looked good and the only thing it needed was to have the column and table top cleaned up. I think it was good price for our area and for someones first KS made drill press but not for me.

I did manage to get a KS made 6x48 belt sander for $50. Mounted on a Delta stand with casters and a homemade belt tightening mechanism which the person did a good job with.

Also, saw a guy about two hours away selling the King Seeley Cabinet saw (the one that is on the front cover of all the mid 1950s power tool catalogs.) it was pretty rough shape but had all the extra stuff (fence, miter gauge, and extensions). He was asking $150 or trade (I got a few big vises I wouldn't mind trading). By time I contacted them someone else got it. Man it would have been a good project.

 

[N2 Many Projects]

Great thread chalked full of useful information.

Hey FrankLee, do you have an average price you would be willing to pay for a 100 or a 150 Drill Press?

 

[honza.vosalik]

Went to an estate sale last weekend to look at an early 100 DP. Asking $200 for it so I decided to pass. It was all there and the spindle pulley had zero slack (worn splines). Paint looked good and the only thing it needed was to have the column and table top cleaned up. I think it was good price for our area and for someones first KS made drill press but not for me.

I did manage to get a KS made 6x48 belt sander for $50. Mounted on a Delta stand with casters and a homemade belt tightening mechanism which the person did a good job with.

Also, saw a guy about two hours away selling the King Seeley Cabinet saw (the one that is on the front cover of all the mid 1950s power tool catalogs.) it was pretty rough shape but had all the extra stuff (fence, miter gauge, and extensions). He was asking $150 or trade (I got a few big vises I wouldn't mind trading). By time I contacted them someone else got it. Man it would have been a good project.

I have that table that is pictured with the sander! Definitely something I don't have space for and would be happy to part with if anyone is interested.

 

[FrankLee]

... And thanks for putting the reference links in your notes, makes it very easy to go back and forth.

You're welcome. I know how overwhelming my first post is with the table of contents, so adding links to relevant topics is an easy thing to do.

Great thread chalked full of useful information.

Hey FrankLee, do you have an average price you would be willing to pay for a 100 or a 150 Drill Press?

Thanks for your comments. I'm glad this information is useful.

The short answer to your question is, no.

The long answer is, it depends. There are too many variables to set an average price:

• condition
• special options and features
• the seller's attitude
• my inventory
• my projects in the pipeline
• my finances

My price threshold almost always depends on whether I think I can come out ahead on a refurbished machine. I've paid as little as $15 and as high as $250(twice).

 

[N2 Many Projects]

How close is this to an original motor on the Craftsman 150 DP?

 

[FrankLee]

How close is this to an original motor on the Craftsman 150 DP?

Appearance? Not so much.

Specs? It's right on.

A 1/3 hp, 1725 rpm motor is adequate for a Craftsman 150 drill press. A 1/2 hp motor is recommended for continuous heavy duty operation.

The label doesn't say, but I believe that motor has ball bearings as opposed to sleeve bearings. A motor with sleeve bearings typically has oil ports near the shafts.

 

[N2 Many Projects]

Thank you FrankLee

 

[Craptain]

How close is this to an original motor on the Craftsman 150 DP?

You, and many others, may not realize that the dp's were originally sold without the motor. That was an option and you would choose the power you wanted. The motor might be bought with the dp, or separately, or might even be something you already had. So yes, it's appropriate, age wise and power wise.

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[N2 Many Projects]

Thank you Craptain I was not aware of this either.

 

[Steve F.]

Question for FrankLee and all. Last night I bought a 103.23130. Its in good condition but the spring return is not working. I reviewed the spring adjustment section you have here and it still won't return after tightening. How do I check and replace the spring? What else could be the problem? Any guidance anyone could provide would be greatly appreciated. Thank you very much.