Craftsman Drill Press

[FrankLee]

Motor Shaft Burr From Set Screw

Im going to take measurements shortly on the two motor pulleys I have.
But I wonder if Iam better off keeping them. Most people are trying to slow these still presses down and if these are smaller diameter on the motor it should do just that. I don't plan on leaving the speed set that high. I just had it like that for testing. I will likely only use it on the lowest two speeds.
With the correct pulley the speeds are 5000, 2390,1280, and 610. If my pully is smaller across the board all of those numbers should be slightly lower.

Exactly.

Here's a picture I just took of the motor I'm working on this morning. The shaft is badly scarred. It required a puller to remove the pulley.

I'll be cleaning off that burr, but I'm going to flip the motor and reverse the rotation when I install it on dp#56. I like the terminal end of the motor facing down.

​

 

[shortyg83]

Exactly.

Here's a picture I just took of the motor I'm working on this morning. The shaft is badly scarred. It required a puller to remove the pulley.

I'll be cleaning off that burr, but I'm going to flip the motor and reverse the rotation when I install it on dp#56. I like the terminal end of the motor facing down.

​

Well you were right. The belt does not work when changing sizes. I would have to switch to the 44" belt when I drop to the bottom steps. The top step is 3.98" so the top speed would be about 4000rpm. And the worse part is the bottom two steps actually don't get as small as the normal pulley so the speed will actually be higher than stock. I guess I have to buy a motor pulley. Do you know of any place to buy one or is searching ebay going to be my only shot?

 

[atch]

Well you were right. The belt does not work when changing sizes. I would have to switch to the 44" belt when I drop to the bottom steps. The top step is 3.98" so the top speed would be about 4000rpm. And the worse part is the bottom two steps actually don't get as small as the normal pulley so the speed will actually be higher than stock. I guess I have to buy a motor pulley. Do you know of any place to buy one or is searching ebay going to be my only shot?

Around here I've been able to go to the local hardware store and get just about any pulley I wanted. That includes the stepped pulleys that are on one of my Craftsman drill presses I mentioned in a previous post.

ymmv

 

[FrankLee]

Well you were right. The belt does not work when changing sizes. I would have to switch to the 44" belt when I drop to the bottom steps. The top step is 3.98" so the top speed would be about 4000rpm. And the worse part is the bottom two steps actually don't get as small as the normal pulley so the speed will actually be higher than stock. I guess I have to buy a motor pulley. Do you know of any place to buy one or is searching ebay going to be my only shot?

The OE pulley is not an off-the-shelf part. The profile height is ~2-1/8". So yeah, ebay is your best bet if you want an original part.

However, if you're only going to need a couple speeds, two single-step pulleys would work great. Look for a couple hub-less pulleys that have the set screw in the v-groove, then just stack them on the shaft.

 

[atch]

Around here I've been able to go to the local hardware store and get just about any pulley I wanted. That includes the stepped pulleys that are on one of my Craftsman drill presses I mentioned in a previous post.

ymmv

The OE pulley is not an off-the-shelf part. The profile height is ~2-1/8". So yeah, ebay is your best bet if you want an original part.

However, if you're only going to need a couple speeds, two single-step pulleys would work great. Look for a couple hub-less pulleys that have the set screw in the v-groove, then just stack them on the shaft.

Interesting. It's been over 25 years since I changed out those pulleys but at that time I sourced them locally. Maybe I just had an extremely well stocked hardware store back then.

 

[shortyg83]

So since there are no parts that I need from the doner I bought for 5 dollars. I guess I may as well try to refurbish that one as well.
So here goes some of the things about it.
It is 103.23131 which I believe is a model 100
Condition: Very not good.
Motor: The motor has no plaque on it listing its specs. It appear to be the identicle motor that is on my 150 I just rebuilt. That was a Capacitor Start 1/2 HP Craftsman.
Motor Condition: PO had a switch hard wired in. The motor does not spin. I hear a humming noise but nothing happen so I immedietly turned it off. Took off the Capacitor housing and found the capacitor top coroded apart and no longer even attached to the wires since the connections have corroded off.

Missing Parts:
Feed Stop rod: The housing for it is on the quill but looks as though it
may be damaged. I won't know until I take it apart.
Feed handles and rods: PO has installed random bolts to replace them
Motor Pulley: Not missing, just has the wrong one.

Differences between the 150 and 100 that I now have
The table on the 100 can rotate. I don't know why they got rid of this feature.
The quill is different. The 150 quick has a C clip Retaining ring. The 100 has no ring
and no place for one.

This one is going to likely take alot longer for me to finish. The chuck is rusted in place so I will have to soak that likely to get it off so I can remove the bad feed stop bracket.

Step one finding a capacitor to see if I can get this motor to work.

 

[shortyg83]

Exactly.

Here's a picture I just took of the motor I'm working on this morning. The shaft is badly scarred. It required a puller to remove the pulley.

I'll be cleaning off that burr, but I'm going to flip the motor and reverse the rotation when I install it on dp#56. I like the terminal end of the motor facing down.

​

My motor was a little different. It still use the set screw but it has a slot removed out of it instead of the flat spot on the shaft. the screw def moved a tiny bit but no real damage. I used a little bit of pb blaster and a wheel puller and it came of pretty easily.

 

[FrankLee]

My motor was a little different. It still use the set screw but it has a slot removed out of it instead of the flat spot on the shaft. the screw def moved a tiny bit but no real damage. I used a little bit of pb blaster and a wheel puller and it came of pretty easily.

That sounds right. 150’s came with the later style motors that had dual shafts, but one was 1/2” with a flat and the other was 5/8” with a key slot. Was the key there?

Do either/both of your motors have ball bearings or sleeve bearings?

 

[Outlawmws]

If the pulley is original and stuck fast, here is what one GJ member did to get it off without busting it: start at post 946.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=99225&page=47

 

[shortyg83]

That sounds right. 150’s came with the later style motors that had dual shafts, but one was 1/2” with a flat and the other was 5/8” with a key slot. Was the key there?

Do either/both of your motors have ball bearings or sleeve bearings?

No key, just the set screw that was screwed into that slot.
This is the motor.
http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/222/4796.pdf
113.12140

 

[Cruzan80]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Definitely should have a key in the slot. Does the slot or bottom of setscrew show signs of damage?

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[shortyg83]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Definitely should have a key in the slot. Does the slot or bottom of setscrew show signs of damage?

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using The Garage Journal mobile app

The slot on the motor has very slight scratching. No real damage though.

 

[FrankLee]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

The slot on the motor has very slight scratching. No real damage though.

When installing motor pulleys, I usually apply a light coat of anti-seize on the shaft and a low-strength thread locker on the set screw. I like to think that someone who re-refurbs my machines 60 years from now will appreciate it. LoL!

 

[shortyg83]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

When installing motor pulleys, I usually apply a light coat of anti-seize on the shaft and a low-strength thread locker on the set screw. I like to think that someone who re-refurbs my machines 60 years from now will appreciate it. LoL!

So the second motor which wasn't working is fixed. I replaced the starting capacitor and it now works like a charm. While the motor looks identicle it does not have a plate with the model or the specs on it, and there doesn't seem to be a spot where one may have fallen off. Also the actual shaft is more like the ones you posted that just have the flat side for mounting. Now I have to find a pulley for this one as well.

 

[FrankLee]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

So the second motor which wasn't working is fixed. I replaced the starting capacitor and it now works like a charm. While the motor looks identicle it does not have a plate with the model or the specs on it, and there doesn't seem to be a spot where one may have fallen off. Also the actual shaft is more like the ones you posted that just have the flat side for mounting. Now I have to find a pulley for this one as well.

I don’t know too much about capacitors, whether different H.P. motors have different or the same capacitor.

You could check the numbers on both original caps. If the specs match, it’s just additional circumstantial evidence that the motors are the same model.

Please post pictures of both motors.

 

[shortyg83]

Anyone have any feed handles for the Older version 100 for sale?

 

[Bill C]

Anyone have any feed handles for the Older version 100 for sale?

I for sure have two of em that are not bent or broken. I need to check and see about the 3rd.

 

[shortyg83]

I for sure have two of em that are not bent or broken. I need to check and see about the 3rd.

Ok keep me posted.

 

[Bill C]

Ok keep me posted.

Well I guess they are not as nice as I remembered.... one is broken, so it’s useless. The other two are kinda rusty (would still clean up well enough) and one of those has slightly bent threads on the smaller side that threads into the hub. That bending is very common on the early 100-style feed handles, which is why they switched to the larger size on the later models.
They are still yours for the cost of shipping but I’m not quite sure they are even worth that, unless you are in a real bind.

 

[FrankLee]

Anyone have any feed handles for the Older version 100 for sale?

These worked good...

Home Made Feed Handles

Regarding feed handles... it's not too difficult to make them yourself for about $20.

• stubby screwdriver handles (you could also use a traditional black round knob) - eBay
• 1/2" stainless steel tubing - Amazon
• 3/8" threaded rod - Home Depot
• 3/8" stainless steel nuts - Home Depot

​

 

[shortyg83]

These worked good...

These are a great idea. Thanks. I will likely do this with a black handle end.

 

[FrankLee]

These are a great idea. Thanks. I will likely do this with a black handle end.

I didn't take any detailed pictures, but it works well to recess the tube slightly into the nut and into the knob. That will keep the tube centered and secure.

 

[shortyg83]

I didn't take any detailed pictures, but it works well to recess the tube slightly into the nut and into the knob. That will keep the tube centered and secure.

How did you recess the tube into the nut and knob?

Also do you think a brass wire wheel on a benchtop grinder would be ok to clean the chuck with? Or would it be too abrasive?

 

[FrankLee]

How did you recess the tube into the nut and knob?

Also do you think a brass wire wheel on a benchtop grinder would be ok to clean the chuck with? Or would it be too abrasive?

I just used a 1/2” bit. About 3/32” into the nut and about 1/8” into the knob.
Make sure the ends of the tube are squared to its length. I used a belt/disk sander.

I always dismantle the chuck and use a standard wire wheel on some of the chuck parts with judicious pressure. Then polish the parts on the buffer with white compound. Lately, I’ve alSo used the sonic cleaner for the chuck parts. The chuck sleeve gets a sanding after the chuck is reassembled and installed with the machine running.

 

[paulm12]

quick update on my attempt to replace a seemingly bent spindle. As I had mentioned previously, that spindle is pretty straight all the way up to the arbor itself, and then is either bent or mis-machined, with run-out going from 0.005" to 0.010" just over the length of the arbor itself. I installed the spindle from my DP#2, the one with the 5/8" straight bore arbor. I found a #3326 chuck with set screw and installed that. I now have around 0.004" run-out at the chuck. I was previously measuring over 0.020" with the old spindle and chuck. Is much nicer to use now. And I still need to disassemble and clean this chuck. Note that I just do not like a set screw type chuck, it seems inherently sloppy to me, but I will use it at least for now.

I will continue to clean up and prep DP#2, and look for another spindle for that machine. Picture attached showing DP#1 refurbished last year. I still really like the looks of these machines.

Thanks again especially FrankLee for your great help on this thread.
.

 

[cclfn]

Picked up this little fella the other day for $95 and it runs good. Lots of dust and dirt but hopefully it will clean up well. As this has the Simpsons-Sear LTD model plate does that mean it was sold in Canada initially? Perhaps an undocumented drill press that snuck back into the USA? The PO said he got it in like new condition in 1963 here in Oregon.

 

[Bill C]

Picked up this little fella the other day for $95 and it runs good. Lots of dust and dirt but hopefully it will clean up well. As this has the Simpsons-Sear LTD model plate does that mean it was sold in Canada initially? Perhaps an undocumented drill press that snuck back into the USA? The PO said he got it in like new condition in 1963 here in Oregon.

Damn! $95 with an intact vari-slo assembly! That is a 100% “you ****” price!
Where about in Oregon did this come from? Was it a Craigslist listing?

 

[FrankLee]

quick update on my attempt to replace a seemingly bent spindle. As I had mentioned previously, that spindle is pretty straight all the way up to the arbor itself, and then is either bent or mis-machined, with run-out going from 0.005" to 0.010" just over the length of the arbor itself. I installed the spindle from my DP#2, the one with the 5/8" straight bore arbor. I found a #3326 chuck with set screw and installed that. I now have around 0.004" run-out at the chuck. I was previously measuring over 0.020" with the old spindle and chuck. Is much nicer to use now. And I still need to disassemble and clean this chuck. Note that I just do not like a set screw type chuck, it seems inherently sloppy to me, but I will use it at least for now.

I will continue to clean up and prep DP#2, and look for another spindle for that machine. Picture attached showing DP#1 refurbished last year. I still really like the looks of these machines.

Thanks again especially FrankLee for your great help on this thread.
.

That's a drastic improvement in run-out! Glad it worked out.

Picked up this little fella the other day for $95 and it runs good. Lots of dust and dirt but hopefully it will clean up well. As this has the Simpsons-Sear LTD model plate does that mean it was sold in Canada initially? Perhaps an undocumented drill press that snuck back into the USA? The PO said he got it in like new condition in 1963 here in Oregon.

Great score on that machine!

Yes, it'll clean up well. In my experience, the Power Bronze paint seemed thinner and rusted easier than the previous battle-ship gray. Check this post for one of my power bronze refurbs:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=7386760#post7386760

That is a very common badge with the Simpson-Sears printing. I have about 16 extra badges from various machines and about half say both Sears Roebuck and Simpson-Sears. On most of them, the Simpson-Sears is a much smaller font.

 

[NotOrganized]

My Dad bought one of the table top versions back in the 60's. I didn't need another one when he passed away so I gave it to a friend. I used it a bunch when younger. Plenty powerful. I probably would have kept it if it was a floor stander. It was heavy as sin though.

 

[cclfn]

He bought it in Eugene and I gave him $100 as I couldn't bring myself to ask him for $5 in change. He did list it on craigslist but I just happened to look about 20 minutes after he posted it and called him right away. He had other callers before I got there.

Frank

"Great score on that machine!"
Thanks Frank and thanks for the link on the bronze machine

 

[paulm12]

Does anyone know if any of the parts from the Dunlap drill press (I assume is 12-1/4") are inter-changeable with the CMan 13-1/2" machines? I looked through some Dunlap parts listings, and nothing seemed to be the same, but I know that part numbers can change. There is a Dunlap nearby that I may get if any of the parts can be shared.

Thanks.

 

[FrankLee]

Does anyone know if any of the parts from the Dunlap drill press (I assume is 12-1/4") are inter-changeable with the CMan 13-1/2" machines? I looked through some Dunlap parts listings, and nothing seemed to be the same, but I know that part numbers can change. There is a Dunlap nearby that I may get if any of the parts can be shared.

Thanks.

Not many parts will swap between those machines. Despite their shared dna, they have a very different anatomy.

 

[paulm12]

Thanks FrankLee: that is what I figured.

 

[FrankLee]

Thanks FrankLee: that is what I figured.

Oddly, the pinion/feed handle assemblies from the 12-1/4”, 13-1/2” and early 15-1/2” machines can all be interchanged.

The spring from the 12-1/4” and the early 15-1/2” machines are the same. The spring for the 13-1/2” drill press is about an inch longer.

 

[sheltonfilms]

Oddly, the pinion/feed handle assemblies from the 12-1/4”, 13-1/2” and early 15-1/2” machines can all be interchanged.

The spring from the 12-1/2” and the early 15-1/2” machines are the same. The spring for the 13-1/2” drill press is about an inch longer.

Yep




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ZBear]

If anyone has an extra $500 burning a hole in their pockets.

https://cedarrapids.craigslist.org/tls/d/cedar-rapids-craftsman-drill-press/6892467152.html

 

[shortyg83]

Got my handles made.
<img src="http://i.imgur.com/lzR1tkF.jpg" style="max-width: 675px; max-height : 1000px; " border="0" alt="">
<img src="http://i.imgur.com/h6PmoXY.jpg" style="max-width: 675px; max-height : 1000px; " border="0" alt="">

 

[paulm12]

Nicely done on the handles.

 

[pdubss]

Got my handles made.
<img src="http://i.imgur.com/lzR1tkF.jpg" style="max-width: 675px; max-height : 1000px; " border="0" alt="">
<img src="http://i.imgur.com/h6PmoXY.jpg" style="max-width: 675px; max-height : 1000px; " border="0" alt="">

Nice!

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

 

[FrankLee]

Got my handles made.

Nicely done on the handles.

Nice!

x3!!!