Craftsman Drill Press

[Mr. Wonderful]

I wanted to get an informed opinion from the gurus on this thread. Today I am going to look at this pair of drill presses. I only want one. I like the 150 in the power bronze but it is missing the depth stop nuts and the lock handle for the table. The 100 looks to be pristine and has a tilting table. The seller is asking $50 less for the 150. My question is, is there an advantage to either model that I should know? I know the cosmetic differences. I just didn't know if one was more desirable than the other for some reason? I don't mind doing a refurbish on the 150 if it is the better machine.

I have read extensively in this thread and just haven't seen anything pointing in one way or the other. I am coming home with one of these!

Thanks for any info you have.

 

[shortyg83]

x3!!!

On thing I did, since the metal tub was a bit bigger than the 3/8 rod is i placed three rubber o-rings on each threaded rod. It keeps the tube super solid.

 

[sheltonfilms]

I wanted to get an informed opinion from the gurus on this thread. Today I am going to look at this pair of drill presses. I only want one. I like the 150 in the power bronze but it is missing the depth stop nuts and the lock handle for the table. The 100 looks to be pristine and has a tilting table. The seller is asking $50 less for the 150. My question is, is there an advantage to either model that I should know? I know the cosmetic differences. I just didn't know if one was more desirable than the other for some reason? I don't mind doing a refurbish on the 150 if it is the better machine.



I have read extensively in this thread and just haven't seen anything pointing in one way or the other. I am coming home with one of these!



Thanks for any info you have.

100 has the tilt table, 150 doesn’t
Only benefit a 150 has is motor mount tilts for easier belt movement on steps of pulleys and the quick adjust depth stop (which you say is missing).

I would probably go with the 100.


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[shortyg83]

I wanted to get an informed opinion from the gurus on this thread. Today I am going to look at this pair of drill presses. I only want one. I like the 150 in the power bronze but it is missing the depth stop nuts and the lock handle for the table. The 100 looks to be pristine and has a tilting table. The seller is asking $50 less for the 150. My question is, is there an advantage to either model that I should know? I know the cosmetic differences. I just didn't know if one was more desirable than the other for some reason? I don't mind doing a refurbish on the 150 if it is the better machine.

I have read extensively in this thread and just haven't seen anything pointing in one way or the other. I am coming home with one of these!

Thanks for any info you have.

Well I am currently finishing refurbishing a late model 150 and an early model 100. So let me tell you the differences I ran into. These may not be accurate for every version of the 150 or 100 though since I think small changes were made.
1. The quill on the 150 has a snap ring on the bottom of it. This may not seem like a big deal, but it is. The only thing that stops the quill from going back into to far on the 100 is the feed stop attachment. Which will get bumped over and over and likely have to be reseated. On the 150 even without the feed stop the quill will stop at the correct posistion.
2. Feed spring tension on the 100 is done via an external handle. This seems better than the 150 but in reality it is not. The spring is pushed into that handle which you must then turn to tension and put on a bolt that locks that handle on pace. On the 150 the spring locks onto a pin and you can tension it just by pulling out the feed handle slightly and turning it. It is much easier on the 150 in my opinion.
3 My two presses have different chucks. They are both collar lock jacobs chucks. The 100 chuck has indentations and the 150 chuck is smooth. Other than looks though I cannot tell any usability difference.
4. Motor mount and speed adjustment. On the 100 the motor mont is static. So to change the speed with the belt you must loosen both side bolts, slide the motor in, move the belt, then retension the motor. On the 150 they made the mount tilting with a locking clip. So to change speed all you do is pull the clip down, tilt the motor and move the belt, then just push clip back. It is much faster.
5. As you know they got rid of the tilt table on the 150. Not sure why. So any angles you want drill you will have to come up with a jig to do so.

That's it as far as I can think of. But I will tell you some more useful info.
Most parts are hard to come by and quite expensive. The feed stop assembly will likely run you at least $50 if you can find one. You also need to check the motor pullys on the motors to see if they are the correct size. Lots of people replaced them and most of the replacements would require have different sized belts when changing speed.
As far as the missing lock handle goes if the actual locking cylinders are still there you can just use a bolt or possibly find a handle on ebay. A bolt would be fine if you dont constantly need to adjust your table.

Also check the motors on them. They originally sold these bitty with and without a motor. So you may find one of them have a more powerful motor than the other.


Edit update after looking at the pictures both have the wrong pulley on the motor. Wonder what they have on the spindle pulley.

 

[FrankLee]

I wanted to get an informed opinion from the gurus on this thread. Today I am going to look at this pair of drill presses. I only want one. I like the 150 in the power bronze but it is missing the depth stop nuts and the lock handle for the table. The 100 looks to be pristine and has a tilting table. The seller is asking $50 less for the 150. My question is, is there an advantage to either model that I should know? I know the cosmetic differences. I just didn't know if one was more desirable than the other for some reason? I don't mind doing a refurbish on the 150 if it is the better machine.

I have read extensively in this thread and just haven't seen anything pointing in one way or the other. I am coming home with one of these!

Thanks for any info you have.

Measure run-out on both, if possible. If similar, I would definitely go for the 100 just because of the nice original paint. Or, you could get both, upgrade parts on one and flip the other.

My keeper 100 machine is really a hybrid. In other words, it's a Craftsman 125.

More differences between the 100 and 150:

• The column on the 100 is 67", the 150 is 62".
• The quill on the 150 has the snap ring.
• The locks on the 100 look to be the older cast style. The 150 locks are all steel and better.
• Neither motor pulley looks like OE.
• The 100 has 3/8-16 feed handles, the 150 has 1/2-13.
• I can't really tell if the 150 has the external spring tension knob, which I prefer.
• I can't really tell if the chuck on the 100 has the safety collar.

Tilt table and pivot motor mount already mentioned.
If you can even find the rapid adjust feed stop collar for the 150, it will be pricey.

 

[Mr. Wonderful]

Ok wow thank you for all of the info! I will probably go for the 100 as most of the differences seem minor and it looks to be in amazing condition and comes with the original manual I am told. The owner says the 100 was in a heated space most of its life and saw little use.

The pulleys aren't as big of a problem for me as I planning on a different take on the treadmill motor with variable speed. I wasn't worried about the table lock but I did figure I would be chasing those feed stops and pay a premium.

I will post better pictures when it is safely in my garage. This will mark the end of over a year of searching for one of these elusive machines. I thought I had my heart set on power bronze but I am more ok with letting it go in favor of a nicer machine. If anyone in Washington wants the info of the seller for the other machine after I take my pick let me know.

Thanks again!

 

[shortyg83]

Finished the 100 I got. It was not fun. Some of the metal knobs and handles were painted as opposed to polished like on the 150 and they didn't clean up as well as the 150 I did. And I don't really like the feed stop but none the less it works now.

<img src="http://i.imgur.com/x0In71X.jpg" style="max-width: 675px; max-height : 1000px; " border="0" alt=""><img src="http://i.imgur.com/GAIeyPO.jpg" style="max-width: 675px; max-height : 1000px; " border="0" alt=""><img src="http://i.imgur.com/XkVMlUs.jpg" style="max-width: 675px; max-height : 1000px; " border="0" alt="">

 

[bubinga]

Look Good.

 

[paulm12]

nicely done shortyg83
.

 

[FrankLee]

...

Today I am going to look at this pair of drill presses. I only want one.
...

What’s the verdict?

 

[prdcee]

Great work you have done! Nice handle

 

[BrianB1963]

This might be a double post, sorry.

Just picked this up today, and just found your site today.

I'd like to know what year it is. Model 103.23130. Looks like a 15 1/2" from what I've read here so far.

I'd never seen the "Vari-slo" option before.

Paid $50 for it. I will enjoy cleaning it up. Looks like I will need the speed strip located just below the Vari-slo handle.

Sorry, my pics don't show the motor. It has what I believe is the original Craftsman motor.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

I'm also wondering if anyone specializes in revitalizing the old badges from these machines.

 

[FrankLee]

This might be a double post, sorry.

Just picked this up today, and just found your site today.

I'd like to know what year it is. Model 103.23130. Looks like a 15 1/2" from what I've read here so far.

I'd never seen the "Vari-slo" option before.

Paid $50 for it. I will enjoy cleaning it up. Looks like I will need the speed strip located just below the Vari-slo handle.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

I'm also wondering if anyone specializes in revitalizing the old badges from these machines.

Welcome Brian! Very nice score!

If you have the motor, there should be a date code on the badge. That’s a good indication of the age.

There are other clues that can give you the age window. Check my evolution post. There’s a link in the first post.

Your head frame badge could be another clue. I don’t believe that badge was used very long but I I don’t know when.

 

[BrianB1963]

Welcome Brian! Very nice score!

If you have the motor, there should be a date code on the badge. That’s a good indication of the age.

There are other clues that can give you the age window. Check my evolution post. There’s a link in the first post.

Your head frame badge could be another clue. I don’t believe that badge was used very long but I I don’t know when.

Thanks for the help Frank. Looks like I can barely make out a 48 on the motor badge. I'll look more at the first post and see if i can find it. I found some without the Vari-slo, but none with it.

 

[FrankLee]

Thanks for the help Frank. Looks like I can barely make out a 48 on the motor badge. I'll look more at the first post and see if i can find it. I found some without the Vari-slo, but none with it.

OK. Here's a link to the '48 and '49 catalogs.


The Vari-Slo was not in catalogs until '53.


You'll find your owners manual and the Vari-Slo manual on VM

 

[sheltonfilms]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Hmmm I always thought the red only badge was 1950 models. Seemed to be that way on other king Seeley ones I’ve seen.


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[Mr. Wonderful]

What’s the verdict?

I went with the gray 100! The 150 had some internal bearing noises. The 100 was an absolute gem in comparison. You were correct that it was not the original motor. The couple I bought it from couldn't have been nicer. The wife had even been nice enough to replace a bad bearing before I got there. Let me tell you, it is difficult to even tell when this thing is on!! Only the slightest hum and no vibration whatsoever!!

I will be looking to do a treadmill motor conversion and a paint refresh soon.

 

[FrankLee]

I went with the gray 100! The 150 had some internal bearing noises. The 100 was an absolute gem in comparison. You were correct that it was not the original motor. The couple I bought it from couldn't have been nicer. The wife had even been nice enough to replace a bad bearing before I got there. Let me tell you, it is difficult to even tell when this thing is on!! Only the slightest hum and no vibration whatsoever!!

I will be looking to do a treadmill motor conversion and a paint refresh soon.

Very nice! That will serve you well!

 

[Outlawmws]

I went with the gray 100! The 150 had some internal bearing noises. The 100 was an absolute gem in comparison. You were correct that it was not the original motor. The couple I bought it from couldn't have been nicer. The wife had even been nice enough to replace a bad bearing before I got there. Let me tell you, it is difficult to even tell when this thing is on!! Only the slightest hum and no vibration whatsoever!!

I will be looking to do a treadmill motor conversion and a paint refresh soon.

you have the link to my TM conversion right?

 

[atch]

you have the link to my TM conversion right?

Would you mind to repost it please?

 

[Outlawmws]

NP: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=159224

 

[atch]

NP: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=159224

Thanx. I skimmed through it and will study it when I have some free time. Looks like a good idea.

 

[Mr. Wonderful]

you have the link to my TM conversion right?

Thanks! I did not have that link. That is exactly what I am going to do!

With the Craftsman series I want to try and make a control panel that looks somewhat similar to the rest of the drill press. Does anyone know of an analog tachometer that would work for this application?

 

[sheltonfilms]

Thanks! I did not have that link. That is exactly what I am going to do!



With the Craftsman series I want to try and make a control panel that looks somewhat similar to the rest of the drill press. Does anyone know of an analog tachometer that would work for this application?

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4876042&postcount=25


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[Mr. Wonderful]

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4876042&postcount=25


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There are times when a man has to be humble and admit that he doesnt know what possessed him to think that he was the first one to have an idea. This is one of those times. I thought for sure I would have been the first one to try a retro control panel with analog tach. My arrogance is now back in check thank you shelton and doan

 

[FrankLee]

6/8/2019

dp#59 is a 1948 13½" Craftsman 100, model 103.23640. For all intents and purposes, it's really a model 80.

​

 

[Mr. Wonderful]

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4876042&postcount=25


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Damit! I went back and read the rest of that post in the link. Someone at the end showed "nixi tubes" I am probably going to attempt that first before and analog tach! The rabbit hole just keeps going!

 

[jerryd67]

Well, this is drill press #1 for me. It's a 100 (model #103.23130), with what appears to be the original motor on it. Date stamp on motor is J3 48, which I'm assuming is 1948. Has the original Multi Speed Attachment, and seems to be in very good shape for being 71 years old.

I was able to get it disassembled this afternoon, with very few hiccups....the sleeve for the MSA is not interested in coming out of the column, so there it will stay.

 

[Outlawmws]

There is usually a diagonal setscrew in the hub for the middle pulley. (MSA)

 

[FrankLee]

Well, this is drill press #1 for me. It's a 100 (model #103.23130), with what appears to be the original motor on it. Date stamp on motor is J3 48, which I'm assuming is 1948. Has the original Multi Speed Attachment, and seems to be in very good shape for being 71 years old.


I was able to get it disassembled this afternoon, with very few hiccups....the sleeve for the MSA is not interested in coming out of the column, so there it will stay.

Jerry,

Excellent find, congrats!


Regarding the MSA sleeve... I've had two MSA sleeves that were difficult. If you haven't already, review the Base and Column post and the MSA post.

• On dp#1, a floor standing model, a PO installed the column upside down and jammed the MSA sleeve into the too-small bottom end of the column. I believe I got that one out with a slide puller. Check your column orientation.
  
  
• On dp#52, an early bench model, a PO installed the MSA in the correct end, but used the round-wire spacer rings when he shouldn't have. That sleeve was VERY tight. IIRC, I used a long piece piece of 1" x 3/8" flat stock to pound out the sleeve from the other end. Luckily, the sleeve did not break.

Your MSA sleeve issue is likely one of those.



Regarding your quill/spindle issue from your PM, I'll answer here.

From your video, it looks like the spindle washer is missing. Check this post.
It doesn't necessarily mean that the bearings need to be replaced. You'll need to assess whether the original bearings can be reused. If new, I prefer sealed bearings for the quill/spindle and shielded bearings for the spindle pulley. I have spindle washer and quill bumper replacements. Check the link in my signature.



Coincidentally, my dp#59, a few posts above, is also a '48 model (E2 48). She was being a real ***** when I was dismantling. The column is still stuck and the sub-assemblies need dismantling yet, but I'll get there.


There are a couple other things to be aware of regarding the early King-Seeley machines.

• The quill lock cylinders, the table lock cylinders and the head frame lock cylinders are all cast pieces. The bevel on the cylinders are often deformed. This will cause the cylinders to become stuck on the quill and column and prevent them from unlocking. Quill feed will be tight and the table will be difficult to move. If you can replace them with all steel cylinders, especially for the table, you'll like them much better. Check this post.
  
  
• The feed stop bracket on early models were a closed loop. I've had a few of these and they were all problematic. The most recent was on dp#55. If you cut the loop open, like on later models, it is MUCH easier to work with. I'll have to do this on dp#59. Check this post from dp#25.

Good luck with your refurb and keep us posted on your progress.

 

[mAd mOrdigan]

Man I’ve been on the lookout for a 150, and a great find got taken from under my nose the day before I could make it there. This thread brings back my sorrow.

 

[FrankLee]

dp#59

6/8/2019

dp#59 is a 1948 13½" Craftsman 100, model 103.23640. For all intents and purposes, it's really a model 80.

​

6/14/2019

I'm refurbishing dp#59 and had a few unique issues.


Column and Base

The original paint on the head frame and table castings is acceptable. The base, however, looks like it spent some considerable time under water or exposed to some kind of corrosive agent. It was repainted and the column was very stuck.

The rusted column protruded the bottom of the base by 1/8". I have a 2-1/4" column collar that fit perfectly on the bottom of the column. I rigged up my Proto pullers with a 36" length of 9/16-12 threaded rod, liberally applied some Liquid Wrench and tightened the puller. I had to check and re-torque daily and after a few days, it popped.

​

The puller forced the base "up" the column. Once the base started moving, it came off fairly easily.

​

I never had a bench model column that was this stuck and a base this rusty.




Feed Stop Bracket

The feed stop bracket had slid down the quill and a PO kept tightening the bolt. This deformed the bracket into a taper. The bracket slid down the quill so far, that it wore on the thrust collar nut.

​

To make this bracket usable again, I had to cut through the loop to mimic the later bracket design.

​

Spring Tension Knob

I could not get the spring tension knob to budge even with a strap wrench. It was corroded into the head frame casting.

I removed the hub/pinion/spring assembly with the spring under tension. I had to pry the spring from the tongs of the knob with a screwdriver; something I've never had to do before. I was able to knock out the knob from the hub side with a short piece of 1" pvc pipe.

​

Motor Pulley

The motor pulley was stuck on the motor shaft like so many do. Luckily, there was plenty of space between the pulley and the motor to rig a make-shift puller.

​

Despite these issues, it's coming together nicely.

• The head frame and table were cleaned and reassembled.
• The column was soaked in a vinegar bath.
• The base spent several hours in an e-tank, wire wheeled, and primed.
• The motor was dismantled and cleaned.
• The motor band is painted.

​

6/18/2019

dp#59 is complete.

​

 

[Cruzan80]

Just picked up #4 (or maybe #5?). Benchtop drill press with Vari-slow option. When I went to pick it up, the guy was talking down about another machine I purchased, so I figured I would help out by pointing out the things that are wrong/less desirable with this one. The table is a normal table, not tilt, it is missing the headband (small pieces are left near the drive rivets at the ends), the head was tapped to attach a belt guard, GE motor instead of CM, etc. The Vari-slow is cracked, but it is a clean break, with the pieces mating up perfectly. I don't have any shots of it complete right now, only when I took it apart to get it home. Paid $33 for it (three machines were $100) and he started out asking $50. Need to go through and figure out when they had solid motor mount rods, but non-tilt tables to narrow down dates.

The plan is for me to put the Vari-slow on my '46 floor model once I get it repaired. What is the easiest way to repair the break? Brazing, soldering, OA/TIG weld, epoxy?The red band needs to be cleaned up a bit, and straightened (has a few small dents). The benchtop is going to be cleaned up, and then sold. I may see if there is anything that is better compared to my '46 and replace parts as needed (may steal one of the handles for my feed hub). It does have a long-C motor pulley on the benchtop.

Debating on how much I should get in and clean up this one. I still have a later 150 that I need to sand the column and repaint before sale. Not sure if this one will justify me wire-wheeling, replacing bearings, repainting, etc. I do already have the primer and epoxy matched for the color needed. Frank, etc, do you find the market for benchtops is softer than for floor models?

 

[FrankLee]

Just picked up #4 (or maybe #5?). Benchtop drill press with Vari-slow option. When I went to pick it up, the guy was talking down about another machine I purchased, so I figured I would help out by pointing out the things that are wrong/less desirable with this one. The table is a normal table, not tilt, it is missing the headband (small pieces are left near the drive rivets at the ends), the head was tapped to attach a belt guard, GE motor instead of CM, etc. The Vari-slow is cracked, but it is a clean break, with the pieces mating up perfectly. I don't have any shots of it complete right now, only when I took it apart to get it home. Paid $33 for it (three machines were $100) and he started out asking $50. Need to go through and figure out when they had solid motor mount rods, but non-tilt tables to narrow down dates.

The plan is for me to put the Vari-slow on my '46 floor model once I get it repaired. What is the easiest way to repair the break? Brazing, soldering, OA/TIG weld, epoxy?The red band needs to be cleaned up a bit, and straightened (has a few small dents). The benchtop is going to be cleaned up, and then sold. I may see if there is anything that is better compared to my '46 and replace parts as needed (may steal one of the handles for my feed hub). It does have a long-C motor pulley on the benchtop.

Debating on how much I should get in and clean up this one. I still have a later 150 that I need to sand the column and repaint before sale. Not sure if this one will justify me wire-wheeling, replacing bearings, repainting, etc. I do already have the primer and epoxy matched for the color needed. Frank, etc, do you find the market for benchtops is softer than for floor models?

Good score for $33!

The tilt table was last seen as standard equipment on the 100s in the 1955 catalog. It was available as an optional feature in 1956 for a couple/few years.

I believe the tilt motor mount began in '57/'58 with the power bronze 100s.

I can't help with the aluminum repair. I have a feed stop bracket that needs welding too.

Yes, IMO, floor standing models are more desirable, but I haven't had any problems selling bench models. I also sold nine dp power tool stands... the base, column and table. All were bench-top parts.

If your keeper is the '46, you might consider swapping 150 parts into it:

• quill with snap-ring
• pivot motor mount (maybe not needed with the V-S)
• all-steel lock cylinders (those cast alloy cylinders kinda ****)
• rapid-adjust feed stop assembly

 

[Mr. Wonderful]

Ok, I finally got a treadmill for my conversion. I am pretty uninformed when it comes to electrical things. I am getting a decent education via Youtube. This motor says 2.5hp which is quite a bit more than the old motor is rated at. Other than the HP does this look to be a good enough motor for these types of drill press???

 

[lafester]

I just picked up another benchtop 100 (motor dated mid '40s) and two of the feed handles are bent at the threads. I searched around a little and didn't see anything but I am positive this issue has come up before. Just looking for some ideas to straighten them out a little.

 

[FrankLee]

dp#60

I just picked up another benchtop 100 (motor dated mid '40s) and two of the feed handles are bent at the threads. I searched around a little and didn't see anything but I am positive this issue has come up before. Just looking for some ideas to straighten them out a little.

I clamp a threaded connector in a vise, thread on the handle and heat the bend til glowing. Not too long ago, I tried to straighten with a gloved hand but snapped it. Since then I use a hammer and go slow. The last two I did this way were successful. One of those was bent badly and I did not think it would work but it did.




6/27/2019

dp#60 is a Craftsman 100, model 103.23130. It's rough! This will be a part-out machine too.

​

6/28/2019

I've seen lots of broken motor pulleys and lots of bent motor pulleys, but never a motor pulley that was this worn. This was on dp#60.

​

 

[sheltonfilms]

Ok, I finally got a treadmill for my conversion. I am pretty uninformed when it comes to electrical things. I am getting a decent education via Youtube. This motor says 2.5hp which is quite a bit more than the old motor is rated at. Other than the HP does this look to be a good enough motor for these types of drill press???

Looks good to me. Hard part is adapting a pulley.


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[Outlawmws]

What Shelton said, I got lucky and mine had a 5/8 shaft; most are metric.

You still have my thread link right? you also want o save the card I used and if they used a choke (looks like a transformer) between the card and the motor use that as well.

cards are generally marked MC-30 or MC-60

 

[lafester]

Thanks! I don't seem to have much luck with heat but maybe I'll give it a try.
Might also try just using the press as I have had luck with smaller pieces.
Or, I may just use them as is...