Craftsman Drill Press

[FrankLee]

Yep. Made me do a double take and compare with side photos of the same thing. Wrong headband and wrong badge, neither one quite fitting the casting correctly anymore. And yeah, it does look like it might have been painted as a first attempt.

I thought I'd seen it all, but people never cease to amaze me with their "ingenuity" to put it kindly.

If you want bonus points, see how many other things you can spot that are "off" in the rest of the photos. I lost count.

I stopped saying "now I've seen everything" a long time ago, and concluded there is a lot of WTFness to be seen yet. It seems that every machine has some sort of unique feature. That one is probably the most "unique" droll [sic] press I've ever seen. Thanks for posting it!

 

[mAd mOrdigan]

Wow, someone put a lot of effort into that table lift.. and I thought the makeshift on/off switch on mine was ingenious lol

 

[Greenbeano]

Good evening, great thread.
I have an old Craftsman (Dunlop) Model 80 with excessive runout. I suspect it's due to play between the splined quill shaft and the pulley bushing. Has anyone by chance had luck converting over to bearings? Any help is appreciated!

 

[Outlawmws]

Those have a bearing in the bottom (primarily as that is the thrust bearing as well)

a loose top oilite bearing should not contribute a ton to the runout.

Not sure what you mean by the play between the pulley and the splined shaft? is there slop between then at the splined interface? that should not cause runout.

 

[Greenbeano]

Appreciate the response. Please bear with me, this guy was in pieces when I got it (so i'm not fully confident that I have it together correctly!) It didn't have any badging but I'm pretty sure it's a 103.23622 (Dunlop Model 80).

The top of the spindle (male spline) fits into a splined pulley bushing (female) that has two ground flats on it for the pulley set screws. This seems to me to be the only piece that holds the spindle true (unless the quill lock is supposed to?) There is quite a bit of slop between that splined connection. I'll take some pics, that'll be easier! Thanks again.

 

[FrankLee]

Good evening, great thread.
I have an old Craftsman (Dunlop) Model 80 with excessive runout. I suspect it's due to play between the splined quill shaft and the pulley bushing. Has anyone by chance had luck converting over to bearings? Any help is appreciated!

Those have a bearing in the bottom (primarily as that is the thrust bearing as well)

a loose top oilite bearing should not contribute a ton to the runout.

Not sure what you mean by the play between the pulley and the splined shaft? is there slop between then at the splined interface? that should not cause runout.

Appreciate the response. Please bear with me, this guy was in pieces when I got it (so i'm not fully confident that I have it together correctly!) It didn't have any badging but I'm pretty sure it's a 103.23622 (Dunlop Model 80).

The top of the spindle (male spline) fits into a splined pulley bushing (female) that has two ground flats on it for the pulley set screws. This seems to me to be the only piece that holds the spindle true (unless the quill lock is supposed to?) There is quite a bit of slop between that splined connection. I'll take some pics, that'll be easier! Thanks again.

Welcome to The Garage Journal and the Craftsman Drill Press thread!

The spindle is held true by bushings in the quill. Worn quill bushings will cause excessive runout at the taper/chuck. As Outlaw said above, the bushing for the spindle pulley shaft should not be a significant factor in excessive runout.

During early production of those Dunlap machines, there was a 1/2-20 threaded keyless chuck option and a Jacobs taper chuck option. Which do you have?

Pictures of your machine and parts should help us help you.

 

[Greenbeano]

That’s helpful. This one originally had a spindle with a Jacobs taper, I also have a threaded one (shown in the photos).
For a bit of background, I inherited the drill press from my dad. As part of their early 60’s high school shop class in Ypsilanti, Michigan, they would get castings from King Seeley (originally in Ann Arbor, I think) and the kids would fabricate the drill press. They don’t teach it like they used to these days (but might explain the runout!) It originally had an old school washing machine motor with oil cups (now lost, sigh...)
I’ll post a few pics, there seems to be some play between the casting and the quill and very slightly between the spindle and the brass bushings inside the quill. The runout was pretty excessive though, I’m wondering if I didn’t have it assembled quite right.

 

[Terry D]

Hello everyone, this is just a awesome thread. I have a late 40's Craftsman bench top drill press that was my fathers. Its in excellent condition. My question is, I am looking for ideas for the on and off switch. I thought I came across some at one time on this thread or another one, but might be wrong. It doesn't have a craftsman motor, I don't really care for the switch being back there anyway. My dad had it sitting an a craftsman tool stand with a toggle switch mounted on that. I have come across a vintage Lyon drawer cabinet with a butcher block top that would be perfect to set this drill press on. I really would like the switch to be mounted on the drill press. Thanks for any ideas.

 

[FrankLee]

That’s helpful. This one originally had a spindle with a Jacobs taper, I also have a threaded one (shown in the photos).
For a bit of background, I inherited the drill press from my dad. As part of their early 60’s high school shop class in Ypsilanti, Michigan, they would get castings from King Seeley (originally in Ann Arbor, I think) and the kids would fabricate the drill press. They don’t teach it like they used to these days (but might explain the runout!) It originally had an old school washing machine motor with oil cups (now lost, sigh...)
I’ll post a few pics, there seems to be some play between the casting and the quill and very slightly between the spindle and the brass bushings inside the quill. The runout was pretty excessive though, I’m wondering if I didn’t have it assembled quite right.

That's a very interesting story on the history of that machine!

Thanks for the pictures.

For the play between the casting and the quill, I would measure both quills with a micrometer/caliper to see if they're close. Then, maybe test swap the quill/spindle assemblies to check differences.

For the play between the spindle and brass bushings, new bushings may be appropriate.

Runout may also be caused by a bent spindle. Measure the taper with a dial indicator.


Pictures 3 and 4 are very helpful. The bronze bushing should be sticking up above the casting by ~1/8". The steel ring inside the pulley should be riding on the top edge of the bushing. See this post for pictures:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5658352&post5658352

 

[FrankLee]

Hello everyone, this is just a awesome thread. I have a late 40's Craftsman bench top drill press that was my fathers. Its in excellent condition. My question is, I am looking for ideas for the on and off switch. I thought I came across some at one time on this thread or another one, but might be wrong. It doesn't have a craftsman motor, I don't really care for the switch being back there anyway. My dad had it sitting an a craftsman tool stand with a toggle switch mounted on that. I have come across a vintage Lyon drawer cabinet with a butcher block top that would be perfect to set this drill press on. I really would like the switch to be mounted on the drill press. Thanks for any ideas.

Below is a link to a post with some switch configurations that I've come across.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5753907&post5753907
Some are ok, but many are examples of what not to do.



Here is a switch box I assembled for a buyer that I think works very well. It should be sitting at the edge of the bench.

​

I use and usually recommend a foot switch.


.

 

[GreyEyes]

I use and usually recommend a foot switch.

To me this is also the way to go.
This is the one I use: https://temcoindustrial.com/temco-cn0357-foot-switch-1qty.html
It is very well made (U.S.A.) and can also be purchased through Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G8NBBTQ/?tag=atomicindus08-20

For about $15 less they also have the same model with no cord if you prefer a different wiring arrangement.

 

[GreyEyes]

Phil, while personally I think a magnetic starter is kind of overkill for a drill press, there is no sense in reinventing the wheel if that is the way you want to go. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IEM2DSM/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Outlawmws]

I like toggle switches will the "Slap off" cover. (you lift the cover to switch on and can slap the cover closed to switch it off) Not as safe as a deadman foot switch, but far better than most switches for a fast shutoff...

 

[Outlawmws]

Lots of those used on aircraft for sure!

 

[itsDROCK]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Interesting cover on this one



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[FrankLee]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Interesting cover on this one

Nice! Those belt covers are rare! That's only the third I've ever seen in pictures or in person.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=7182194#post7182194


And there's a table lift!


If that's for sale, GO GET IT NOW!

.

 

[bubinga]

Pretty Crazy! Never saw a cover like that, is it sheet metal or cast?

 

[FrankLee]

Pretty Crazy! Never saw a cover like that, is it sheet metal or cast?

That's cast aluminum. Check link in my previous post.

 

[bubinga]

That's cast aluminum. Check link in my previous post.

Oh, Ok Thanks, Hadn't looked at it.
Pretty slick set up for raising the cover to change belt position, with the two detent grooves and a snap-ring

 

[GreyEyes]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Nice! Those belt covers are rare! That's only the third I've ever seen in pictures or in person.

There was one listed on eBay a couple of years ago for $250.00 (yes just the cover!) Don't know if it ever actually sold for that. That was the only one I have ever seen for sale.

 

[FrankLee]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Oh, Ok Thanks, Hadn't looked at it.
Pretty slick set up for raising the cover to change belt position, with the two detent grooves and a snap-ring

Yeah, it's a nice design in that respect.

I don't see the nut/rod on the one above. It's probably just sitting inside, the head frame.

There was one listed on eBay a couple of years ago for $250.00 (yes just the cover!) Don't know if it ever actually sold for that. That was the only one I have ever seen for sale.

That was likely mine. I did not get the $250 or even end up selling it via ebay. A guy from Toledo came up to buy a refurb'd drill press, saw it, and had to have it for his new drill press. He got a good bundle deal and I was happy.

 

[FrankLee]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Interesting cover on this one

So DROCK, what's the story on that machine?

 

[itsDROCK]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

So DROCK, what's the story on that machine?

I made the 135 mile round trip today to pick up the drill press. It belonged to the grandfather of the guy I bought it from and lived in the corner of his garage for 20 years next to a craftsman scroll saw he probably bought at the same time. Being that this is my second Model 100 drill press I recently bought, I had a much better idea of what I was looking at. Overall it’s in very good condition. It’s missing the shoe for the base and the spindle pulley retaining screws were both bent. The power cords to the motor and foot pedal are shot. Im assuming it’s the original motor?

Unfortunately the cover is missing the rod and clamp that attaches to the column cross member. Still a very cool piece.






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[lafester]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Awesome find! I would have driven quite a distance for that.

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[FrankLee]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Awesome find! I would have driven quite a distance for that.

Ditto!!!

I made the 135 mile round trip today to pick up the drill press. It belonged to the grandfather of the guy I bought it from and lived in the corner of his garage for 20 years next to a craftsman scroll saw he probably bought at the same time. Being that this is my second Model 100 drill press I recently bought, I had a much better idea of what I was looking at. Overall it’s in very good condition. It’s missing the shoe for the base and the spindle pulley retaining screws were both bent. The power cords to the motor and foot pedal are shot. Im assuming it’s the original motor?

Unfortunately the cover is missing the rod and clamp that attaches to the column cross member. Still a very cool piece.

Excellent! Yeah, experience is a great teacher. You got that dismantled quickly.

Even with the missing rod and clamp, the cover should still fit and sit well on the head frame. Any rattling can be addressed with self-adhesive dots/felt.

The Delta motor may be vintage correct, but would not have been original to a Craftsman machine. The cords and belts almost always need replacing.

How is the table lift?

What are your plans for the machine?

 

[FrankLee]

Head Frame Casting Cutaway

Yesterday, I finally got around to working on this small project I've been wanting to do for a long time. My Spindle Pulley Assembly post has patent drawings with cross-section views, but there's nothing like seeing the real thing.

​

3/16/2020

Here's another cross-section cutaway I started the other day.

​

This series of photos shows the feed stop bracket in the fully seated position.

​

This series of photos shows the cascading consequences of the feed stop bracket sliding down the quill.

​

 

[smalltown]

Wow those are great photos Frank !
Having not taken mine apart yet I can readily see how the bottom bearing sits on a "shelf, and is fixed in position by the two set screws. What holds the top bearing in place ?

 

[bubinga]

Yesterday, I finally got around to working on this small project I've been wanting to do for a long time. My Spindle Pulley Assembly post has patent drawings with cross-section views, but there's nothing like seeing the real thing.

Wow those are great photos Frank !
Having not taken mine apart yet I can readily see how the bottom bearing sits on a "shelf, and is fixed in position by the two set screws. What holds the top bearing in place ?

Damn~!!!!! Sweet Job!!!
You made your own cut-away model for instruction purposes.
Thanks for your efforts!

 

[FrankLee]

Damn~!!!!! Sweet Job!!!
You made your own cut-away model for instruction purposes.
Thanks for your efforts!

Wow those are great photos Frank !
Having not taken mine apart yet I can readily see how the bottom bearing sits on a "shelf, and is fixed in position by the two set screws. What holds the top bearing in place ?

Thank you.

The bearing shaft in pictures 4 and 5 is somewhat deceiving. IIRC, that shaft is from an older Altas machine that uses a separate pulley.

You may have noticed that the large step on pulley in pictures 2 and 3 is cut off. The internal splines are also worn, so no working machines were harmed in the making of this demonstration. LoL!

There is a steel sleeve cylinder between the two inner races of the bearings that keep the bearings spaced correctly. The correct pulley and shaft is a single piece with a shoulder for the upper bearing.

It may be difficult to see in picture 5, but both screws are damaged from the quill/spindle bumping up into the pulley shaft.

​

 

[itsDROCK]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

How is the table lift?

What are your plans for the machine?

The table lift was "stuck" to the column but once I removed it completely I saw that it cranked up and down freely. After a good cleaning of the table lift and column itself I suspect it should work just fine.

As of now my plans for the machine are to flip it. I already have my bench top model that serves my needs in my tiny work shop. I'll strip the paint and make it look new again. I may part out the table lift and cover.

 

[FrankLee]

Dp#78

The table lift was "stuck" to the column but once I removed it completely I saw that it cranked up and down freely. After a good cleaning of the table lift and column itself I suspect it should work just fine.

As of now my plans for the machine are to flip it. I already have my bench top model that serves my needs in my tiny work shop. I'll strip the paint and make it look new again. I may part out the table lift and cover.

Good plan. You should do well.




1/25/2020

DP#78 is a 2nd gen Emerson model 113.24560. It has a few missing, broken and fubar parts. The motor is a non-original Dayton. Because of the price, bringing it home was a no-brainer.

I've had six of this style before, but I think this will be the first refurb.

​

1/30/2020

The refurb of dp#78 is complete. However, very few parts from dp#78 were actually used; hub/pinion assembly, quill/spindle assembly, spindle pulley assembly feed stop assembly, motor and motor pulley. All cast iron, the motor mount and the belt cover are from other machines.

​

 

[T.K.B.]

Hi All,

First post. Glad I found you guys.
I am an old gray haired electrician.

I recently picked up an old Craftsman drill press 103.23140
It is in pretty good shape.
I am going to dismantle it and clean it up, maybe new bearings.
I think it is all original.
I got a box of accessories to go with it.

I will post pictures as soon as I can.

 

[FrankLee]

Hi All,

First post. Glad I found you guys.
I am an old gray haired electrician.

I recently picked up an old Craftsman drill press 103.23140
It is in pretty good shape.
I am going to dismantle it and clean it up, maybe new bearings.
I think it is all original.
I got a box of accessories to go with it.

I will post pictures as soon as I can.

Welcome! Glad you're here. Looking forward to progress pictures of your refurb.

 

[tombell572]

Frank, I've finished re-assembly of my 103-series drill press thanks to a great extent to the information you provided in this thread. I fired it up for the first time today and all went well until the quill is advanced about 75 percent through its depth. At that point their is a vibration that begins and continues until the quill is fully advanced.

I reinstalled the original bearings since they seemed to run smoothly when turned by hand but I'm wondering if this could be the problem. Perhaps you could shed some light here. The machine sat for many years unused and does not show any signs of damage or abuse.

Tom B.

 

[ClappedOutBport]

I wonder if your spindle spines are bent some. Causing a binding as it goes around which would only be noticeable with the quill extended...

 

[FrankLee]

Frank, I've finished re-assembly of my 103-series drill press thanks to a great extent to the information you provided in this thread. I fired it up for the first time today and all went well until the quill is advanced about 75 percent through its depth. At that point their is a vibration that begins and continues until the quill is fully advanced.

I reinstalled the original bearings since they seemed to run smoothly when turned by hand but I'm wondering if this could be the problem. Perhaps you could shed some light here. The machine sat for many years unused and does not show any signs of damage or abuse.

Tom B.

Member Billnis recently had a similar issue. Check post #3092 and the discussion following.

How did the r&r of the bearings go? What technique did you use? Did you have any difficulties? What brand of new bearings?

Also, with POWER OFF and quill extended, grab the chuck and check for any side-to-side movement of the quill.

Please report back with findings.

 

[tombell572]

Clappedout and Frank, thank you for your input. I'll take a closer look at the spindle splines and run through the recommendations made to Billnis since his problem has been resolved. Runout is not a problem here, checked with chucked drill rod and DTI.

This is a nice little d/p that I picked up at a tag sale and will be passing along to one of my boys who just bought a house and is getting a workshop set up. I'll post some pictures when its together.

Tom B.

 

[bubinga]

The seller's not real responsive..i was hoping check it out in person today...theres another for sale also..looks similiar and the seller wants $150. Its model is a 103.23641. has the light and original manuals. is it worth it?

I hate when sellers are like that!
There was a NICE 16" craftsman Bandsaw don't remember the era, if it was a walker turner, but the seller was taking about 3 days to answer, then he would say like 3 words, like "Yea, it runs"
Asked him something else, Think I asked for a phone number too,
3 days later, 2 more words, No Phone number.
Oh, but he only wanted $100.00 for it too.
I think I got tired of trying to deal with him, then the ad was gone.

 

[lafester]

I hate when sellers are like that!
There was a NICE 16" craftsman Bandsaw don't remember the era, if it was a walker turner, but the seller was taking about 3 days to answer, then he would say like 3 words, like "Yea, it runs"
Asked him something else, Think I asked for a phone number too,
3 days later, 2 more words, No Phone number.
Oh, but he only wanted $100.00 for it too.
I think I got tired of trying to deal with him, then the ad was gone.

They were only made a couple years like '38-40. You definitely should have tried harder. I would have paid $100 just for a set of wheel guards.

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[jg4660]

I hate when sellers are like that!
There was a NICE 16" craftsman Bandsaw don't remember the era, if it was a walker turner, but the seller was taking about 3 days to answer, then he would say like 3 words, like "Yea, it runs"
Asked him something else, Think I asked for a phone number too,
3 days later, 2 more words, No Phone number.
Oh, but he only wanted $100.00 for it too.
I think I got tired of trying to deal with him, then the ad was gone.

It *****...happens more times than not. Don't get it...dont want to sell it, don't list it.

JG